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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:10 am
Posts: 6
Hello all I am new to your forum and would like some input from some of you odyssey/pilot gurus before beginning my projects. I have acquired two running and driving complete FL350s and plan on doing a complete ground up rebuild. All I am looking for is some info from some people with first hand experience on these machines. These will be ridden out on the river and at LS on occasion.
1) Long Travel Suspension - I have bought TRX450R arms/shocks for both rides. Is it worth the trouble to convert front end over putting works shocks on original set up? In my opinion I think i can't go wrong with the TRX stuff on them but want some feedback.
2) Liquid Cooled Set Up - Converting to liquid cooled head and jug. I have two complete extra engines to do this on if I so choose.
3) Exhaust Pipe and Carb - One machine already has DG pipe and plan on getting another one. What carb setup do you recommend?
Both Machines will have Works on rear and comet clutches. Airbox suggestions? I have always run uni filters on stuff like this.
There are none of these machines running around where I am from and I definitely want these to make a statement when they are seen.
Also recommendations on portwork. I have ported/polished heads in the past but never anything two stroke.
Any other mods/recommendations would be appreciated!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Looks like youve got a couple nice projects.
1.never had it. Would be nice as the stock suspension sucks. It will also add width the front end.(I don't like that, they look sweet stock IMO)

2. I'm not sure what your asking here. Liquid cooled is always nice. They supposedly had overheating issues due to lack of airflow to the Engine. That problem is completely eliminated with liquid cooling. Liquid cooling is not required, just nice. You could mount a fan pointing at the Engine and probably be just fine.

3.Pipe- from what I've seen the DG pipes work good but they are pretty loud. You could mod a CR500 silencer onto it to bring that back to reality. I'm not impressed with the nickel plating on the DG. The DG pipe I had barely had a flake left on it. There are other options for pipes. I'm using a Power Pro's and I'm pretty happy with it. The performance is great and you won't go deaf but I personally thought the fit and finish kind of sucked. Mounts are difficult to get lined up and the end of the silencer points toward the frame. I've thought about adding a short tip to correct this but it doesn't harm anything. Maybe at a later date. If I was going to buy another I would buy another Power Pro's pipe. They're more expensive but it will bolt right up without silencer mod. They come ceramic coated as well which is nice. Mine is a well used pipe(not sure how old but it's been around) and the finish is still in pretty good shape. Id bet a new one would stay sharp for years.

3.2 carb-34-36mm for torque 38-39mm for top end. If you stay keihin all of your stock cables should work for an easy and clean install. You'll have to stretch the intake boots in boiling water to fit these larger carbs.

4.What comet clutch's do you have? If you have a 102c try to locate a dust cover for it. If you havnt got them yet consider the 94c. Its enclosed so you won't need a cover and they last forever. I'd rather have reliability than tons of adjustability. I want to ride, not mess with a clutch all day. You have a several options with the 94c as well. Just not as many.

Works shocks- havnt got a set yet but it's pretty much accepted that they are the best mod for an FL350. The stock shocks are terrible. I can tell you that first hand.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Did someone cut the bottom of one of the steering yolks? What an asshole. Nice leg stabbers. I'd replace that immediately and get wrist restraints in place. Lose that K+N. Just for fun check out how much dirt is in the intake tube. :-) Look around the website for info on airbox mods. Right after I modded mine I started seeing this prefilter setup. I wish I would have seen that before I did mine.
I'd recommend having someone do the port work for you if you've never done it. If you want to practice your porting skills try to find some garbage jugs to play with first. If you ruin something aim for cheap. Also check out the search bar for more info. You can find lots of info on everything you asked. Sounds like you've got some work ahead of you. Good luck and enjoy.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Important FL350 Modifications:

1.) Balancer modification:
Keeps the oil out of the starter.

Here is a link to a modification you can do without modifying the case. Read the entire thread so you can see everyone's input and see what the final version cam out to be.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=vent+mod

I made a second version of this setup that makes it easy to install and remove the vent tube but the site got hacked and most of the information is gone. If you need pictures, just let me know.

2.) Rear shock replacement:
The stock Showa shocks are like riding on pogo sticks. If you are going to go with the works shocks in the rear, go with the heavier center shaft shocks. I managed to bust the threaded end off mine.

3.) Rear swing arm Limit straps:
This protects the $600 plus rear shock investment you just made. The axle is part of the rear suspension set up and if you brake a universal joint, the rear axle will swing out sideways and snap or severely bend the rear shock. The limit strap will prevent this.

4.) Front Trailing Arm Replacement:
Unless you are going to be riding this thing like you stole it or jumping it the stock front swing arm assembly works fine. Sure the added suspension is nice but unless you need it, why bother?

5.) Universal Joints.
Check to see if you have the stock universal joints. Some aftermarket joints have a grease zerk in them. These will break the first time any real force is put to them.

6.) Water Cooled cylinder and Head:
This all depends on how you are going to ride these bad boys. If you are going to ride them hard then water cool them. If not leave them air cooled with a fan blowing on the head at a minimum.

I have 2 Ody's and have both setups and the air cooled works as well as the water cooled performance wise. The water cooled head and cylinder will give you longevity on the top end.

Rand


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:10 am
Posts: 6
As you can see the k&n has already been removed if you look in the first pic. I don't understand some people and their good ideas on k&n filters. I have replaced more turbos and engines in diesel pickups due to these "wonder filters" than I can count. The comet I already have is a 94c and planned on setting the other up the same. I also planned on putting a fmf silencer on the back of the DG pipe. I appreciate the input guys! Any suggestions on porting or someone to send em to?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Where are you located? We have a few people on the site here who can do porting, both east and west coast.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:10 am
Posts: 6
I am located in SW Oklahoma.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
horsepower_junkie wrote:
As you can see the k&n has already been removed if you look in the first pic. I don't understand some people and their good ideas on k&n filters. I have replaced more turbos and engines in diesel pickups due to these "wonder filters" than I can count. The comet I already have is a 94c and planned on setting the other up the same. I also planned on putting a fmf silencer on the back of the DG pipe. I appreciate the input guys! Any suggestions on porting or someone to send em to?



If you have some pics of the K&N turbos thing please post here and tell your story viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5491


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
i have done the long travel front suspension, trx arms, spindles disc brake etc and fox floats. rides like a dream..


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 1:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:10 am
Posts: 6
Hoser I have a video of a Turbo that I pulled that was destroyed due to a k&n I will just have to figure out how to post it. Fully could you possibly send a couple of pics of your setup?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
horsepower_junkie wrote:
Hoser I have a video of a Turbo that I pulled that was destroyed due to a k&n I will just have to figure out how to post it. Fully could you possibly send a couple of pics of your setup?
Thanks



Just reply to a post and attach the video same as a picture any idea how many megs the video is ?


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Another guys opinion..... If you plan on heating up your cylinder/head with mods, get the liquid cooled head to wick tha heat. If your going to stay stock I would leave the stock air head unless you like to tinker and want to impress!! I ran both liquid cooled heads and air cooled heads at LS on stock engines and didnt have a problem with either one, when your at idle you could feel the heat coming off the air cooled head though, was just a nuisance not dangerous. Be sure to get some Comet clutch lube for your 94c, i would reccommend lube once a day. Also might want to consider getting the heavy duty tie rods, I was always bending the stock ones. You can still have a blast at LS with the stock front J arm set up. Is that an 8 ball for the shifter knob, nice touch!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
horsepower_junkie wrote:
Fully could you possibly send a couple of pics of your setup?
Thanks


how about the whole story. with tons of pics
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9369&hilit=a+arm


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
If you do a water-cooled head or stick with the stock air-cooled setup...get an EGT gage. Then you can make sure you aren't pushing "melting temps" in your Engine.

10-4 on Randman's list of reliability mods, as well as the top-end stuff like piston lube holes, releiving the exhaust gooch, and doing some light corner relief on your piston and ports.

Crack open the gearbox and make sure your input shaft needle bearings look good.

Install grease zerks on the back face of your rear axle carriers for easy maintenance.

I LOOOOOVE my Trail Tech Vapor gizmo. Tach, speedo, water-temp, air temp, and hourmeter all in one l'il unit.

Not really a performance mod, but the stock lights can get a little dim with some lense haze. I bought some Rigid Industries 2x2 LED headlights off another member and HOLY NIGHTLIGHT! They're $190 new, but there are some knock-offs on eBay, too.

Good tires with good seals are always a plus. Sucks when your tires are flat when you wan tot go riding. Tubes are cheap, too.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:10 am
Posts: 6
Hey guys. I know it has been a while since I checked in here but have been busy working on everyone else's toys that I haven't had a free second to work on my own projects. I have Ody #1 completely torn down to bare frame and just took a bed full of parts to the powder coater to work his magic. I decided to go ahead and go with the a-arm conversion up front and put a liquid cooled head on it. I tore the Engine down and found that the bottom end was on its last leg so the crank went on vacation to get a new rod and pin put in it. I went ahead and opened up the gearbox for inspection and was happy with what I found. Everything there looked great but decided to go ahead and put in some new bearing while I was in there. Also ordered a Trail Tech Vapor for it and a FMF silencer to go behind the DG pipe. Just a couple of questions. What carb should I go back with on this rig? I would like to have more low to mid range power than just straight top end power. Also, where can I find the needle bearings for the gearbox? I looked around a few places and may have just overlooked them but didn't see anything. Haven't got a whole lot of good pictures just yet as I am still waiting on lots of parts to get back to start reassembling and am going to send the cage out to get powder coated after I get the a arm conversion all squared away. I will show you what I have been getting to spend my time working on instead on the Odysseys. Not that I am complaining, just too many irons in the fire.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 1:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Welcome back. I like the Torino :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 1:59 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:10 am
Posts: 6
Yeah the Torino did turn out pretty good. Its a 72 Gran Torino Sport that I just got to clean up other peoples messes on. The woman that owns it had it "restored" and paid good money to have it all done. They did nothing more than make it run and throw a paint job on it. Just made it more fun for me trying to not scuff it up. Still a fun car to work on though!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2013 11:17 pm
Posts: 121
Location: temperance mi
Nice I have a 69 camaro that needs finished but have no time.any time I have goes to my odyssey and that's not much


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