Hello everybody ;) Boy these beauty's are addicting..... About a month ago, I had to purchase another Fl350 (for the wife)......

When I picked this beauty up she wasn't running and had no brakes......... I changed all the fluids, removed and cleaned the fuel tank, replaced

fuel lines and filter, removed and cleaned carb.... After that she started right up and ran pretty well..... For the brakes not working it was a

simple fix, the cables were incorrectly adjusted... I took the parking brake cable and soaked it in oil for a few days to loosen it up.....

It have put a few hours on it since I bought it.... She has a difficult time on first cold start-up, but as soon as she is warmed up she runs fine,

except it is lacking low end torque.... I performed a compression test at 100 psi....

Removed Engine for inspection.... Pics to follow.... Thank you Toby ( Dune Dart )

Here are a few pics of the Engine.... Gonna get measurements tonight.... thanks Dune Dart

more of piston....

more pics of cylinder

I bet that thing has never been apart before. Do you have a pic of the base gasket by chance?

Those rear tires are the ugliest tires I've ever seen! Looks like a nice odyssey.

Yo DD! (Dune Dart...plus everyone likes DD's!!!)

Looks like you have another nice project on your hands. Appears to be a honda "ART" piston, so plenty of bores left. I am willing to bet it is a stock 78.5mm piston, those things seem to run forever if taken care of. Keep the pics coming and hopefully your wife will be able to join us in the dunes for some darting of her own!

Ya I can't believe it...... She was a 30 year old virgin

Here is a pic of the base gasket, if you look closely at the gasket the nipple looks like they purposely indented the nipple, I was wondering why

they did this to the gasket... I have a new oem base gasket and the nipple is not that way.... thanks Dune Dart...

If you look closely someone removed the rear hubs and put on some atv rims and hubs...?...?...

So this is the ody that Captain Pogo Stick was riding, right? You might want to inspect the left front suspension, the front tire is cambered in. Could be a bent upper arm, or maybe worn out bushings or ball joint?

I did a leakdown test on the Engine and it held 8 psi for over 10 min..... Disassembled Engine and took measurements....

Measured cylinder bore, minimum measurement was = 78.45 mm ( service limit = 78.555 mm )

Measured piston O.D. = 78.33 mm ( service limit = 78.365 mm )

Calculated piston to cylinder clearance = 0.12 mm ( service limit = 0.16 mm )

Measured piston pin bore I.D. = 17.99 mm ( service limit = 18.033 mm )

Measured piston pin O.D. = 17.96 mm ( service limit = 17.979 mm )

Calculated piston pin to piston clearance = 0.03 mm ( service limit = 0.03 mm )

Measured connecting rod end I.D. = 21.98 mm ( service limit = 22.024 mm )

Measured piston ring's gap ( over 1 mm ) ( service limit = 0.5 mm )

Ok, now I need your guys help.... what do I do next ? What parts need to be replaced ? thank you Dune Dart

At 100 psi compression chances are the top end is just good and worn out. More than likely it runs well but is a pain in the ass to start when it's cold but starts right up when its warm......right?

The big question is......

What did you use to measure the bore and piston? To get an accurate measurement you will need to use a dial bore gauge to be able to tell if the cylinder is out of round or if it has a taper in it. For piston measurement, you can use a caliper but you should use a good micrometer.

For a quick down and dirty test, with the rings off the piston, slide the piston into the bore about an inch or two below top dead center in the same position it would be as if it were connected to the wrist pin, exhaust to exhaust, intake to intake. With the piston in this position, take a feeler gauge and see how big of a gauge you can slip between the piston and the cylinder wall at the intake and exhaust side of the cylinder.

You are checking it in this position because most of the wear you are going to get is the front and rear of the piston due to the rotation of the crank shaft.

Please post your results.

Thanks, Rand

Thanks Randman, I used a Telescoping Gauge Set and a 6" digital caliper that is accurate to 0.001" to get my measurements...

I measured the piston in the cylinder with a feeler gauge and the measurement was 0.2 mm

Does this Engine just need a set of rings ? Or is there more that needs to be done ? thank you Dune Dart...

Stock rings are pretty hard to come by. Cost will be higher, but I would go ahead and punch it out to 80mm and go with a weisco piston.

Send that top-end to someone who's done an FL350 top-end before. Will need the exhaust bridge relieved, piston lube holes drilled, and some basic clean-up of the piston and cylinder edges. They might be the right people to port match stuff for you, too.

While its out for work...tear down that carb and clean it, rebuild the starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), clean-up or rinse-out the crank case, inspect the input shaft bearings on the trans, do the crank case vent mod, grease your suspension bushings and axle carriers, make a pre-filter for the airbox, check the chassis for loose or missing bolts (esp. tie rods!), and find some front fenders & that column cover.

Yo Dune Dart!

I concur with Dr. Nick that you patient needs an 80mm piston transplant. If you just replace the rings (if you can find them) the piston will wear even farther causing the piston to slap around in the bore and will eventually fracture causing a catastrophic failure. Throwing shrapnel down into the bottom end of the case will generally cause the crank to punch a nice hole or at minimum, crack the crank case halves.

Your .2mm feeler gauge measurement shows that the piston to cylinder clearance is .0078". The manual shows piston to cylinder clearance to be .006" maximum. I am willing to bet you that the clearance is even more that that, depending on where it is measured at. Remember that the feeler gauge has to bend to get into the space so it isn't exactly accurate, but just a down and dirty measurement.

Telescoping gauges are a pain in the ass to use and should only be used for a rough measurement. It is difficult at best to get an accurate reading no matter how careful you are. A dial bore gauge uses three stabilizing points within the bore to assure that the measuring points are precisely 180 degrees apart and will give a reading down to .0001".

Dr. Big Pussie

Sorry to butt in but if I have a Engine with a alum base gasket that has a bore size of 78.5 mm which was in the parts machine I bought.

Could it be a original Engine, never been rebuilt??

Thanks,Randy

Yes! My Wife's Ody was an original untouched Ody in the same condition.

Rand

That's cool thanks!!

Randy

updates?

I've made some progress with this old girl....

I removed the battery box and gave it a fresh coat of paint and replaced the rubber mounts...

After 3 weeks of soaking the driven clutch with WD40, I was able to remove it from the tranny (what a b*tch) !!!!
I replaced the slippers and cleaned and lubed the clutch... Put a good amount of anti-seeze when I installed it to the trans....

For the cylinder I cleaned up all the casting flaws and took it to L.A. sleeve to bore it to a 80mm Wiseco piston...

I drilled the lube holes in the piston and now I'm prepping the piston for install.....

She is about ready to be put back together, I'll take some pics this weekend to post... Thanks Dune Dart

Pics of assembly? Also, you going to make it to the Glamis New Years trip?

Finally got some time to put this Engine back together ;)...

The last couple weeks I have been breaking in the Engine, trying to get a few plug chops in, so far the jetting is way to lean....

This weekend I will be working on a duel prefilter setup and working some more on the jetting... Can't wait to get this baby dialed in

I had L.A. Sleeve bore the cylinder to a 80 mm wiseco piston and relieve the exhaust bridge......

Drilled the lube holes on piston and prepped the piston..... Luckily I found an old stock wiseco piston that is lighter.....

I cleaned up the casting flaws in the cylinder.....

Also I rebuilt the starter... I swear I poured at least a quart of oil out of it.... Performed the vent case mod...

Here is a couple pics of my progress..... Dune Dart

more pics

Very Nice.

The pic of the cylinder was not real clear of the hone job. It almost looked like a fresh bore with out final hone. probably camera angle.