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 Post subject: The heck with it. fl350
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
`11111111111111111 crap rat terrier stepped on the keyboard!
Well here goes I have done my reserch its time to get started.
It was a nice day out so I got started on creating a little sahara myself, yep that's right got out
the old sand blaster to see how tough the paint is going to get off.
Also took some pics of crank where its rubbed aginst the case . Anyhow taking
the plunge with both feet also bought the complete lower off 1frc . Thanks for the link bull.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
that's it finally got started it was a nice day thought I would let the sand fly.
Need to finish breaking the frame down and really get after blasting it.
Wife wants to met to paint it ford mustangs crusher blue and call it
little blue dune buggy. Good grief I sure hope this pans out.lol


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:22 pm
Posts: 2641
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
If you were planning on painting it, you don't really need to take it down to the metal. Just scuff and remove any chip spots, start with about 400 grit, then work your way to smoother stuff. Use a nice automotive filler primer, automotive grade paint, and a good clear coat. Take your time, follow instructions on the paint can, and it will turn out great. That is my main problem, I never take my time! I want it done fast, and I get runs in my paint.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
Also take it apart. The roll cage and all the suspension.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 1:18 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I'm with dbloudharleys, the sand blaster is one of my favorite tools! Its messy as hell but for some reason I like to watch the paint being stripped off parts.

Also, with the sand blaster, you get a good roughed up surface for the paint or primer to get a good foothold so a lot less chipping.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 1:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
yep it wont be rattle can. It will be a hok primer cant get the good stuff with high solids any more.
But its a good primer. Also like I said she wants it blue it will be blue with red highlights. But baby blue like I said earlier ford mustangs crusher blue. Yuck !
No for some reason I like to take it down all the way to metal always
have done that way when I was a kid I would get a really nice bike frame with a shitty paint scheme,
would end up sanding down then painting laid down some pretty nice rattle can paint jobs.
I will break it down and get some more sand and finish blasting then start on small
pieces then paint reassemble. The sandblasting will ensure a good bond with the primer I am using fine sand so should turn out nice. I was thinking about tapeing of Engine cases and using pecan hulls on it that way its all shined up also. Is there anything else I can use on the alunimun to clean it up and shine it short of a transmission washer? Will have more this weekend.
Also in the pics you can see where the crank scrapped the cases
do you guys think its just maybe some of the top end scrapnel had gotten into the bottom end?
That is what stix and I had talked about. Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 1:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
You need to check the run out of the crank and make sure it is within specification. If it within spec then I would say something got in between the crank and case.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:37 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Randman wrote:
You need to check the run out of the crank and make sure it is within specification. If it within spec then I would say something got in between the crank and case.

Rand


Ditto that. The rub mark on the crank lobe isn't continuous, so it makes me wonder if the crank developed a "wobble" (aka: out-of-spec runout). The rub is opposite the pin, so wonder if the crank spread its wings a bit or maybe that side's bearing failed/spun (?).


Also...to make aluminum shine you'll need to either work it through a polish, smooth it out and etch it, or else blast it and then clear-coat it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
Well I don't know why I didnt think of that. My common sense meter is off. That sounds right.
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Randman wrote:
You need to check the run out of the crank and make sure it is within specification. If it within spec then I would say something got in between the crank and case.

Rand


Ditto that. The rub mark on the crank lobe isn't continuous, so it makes me wonder if the crank developed a "wobble" (aka: out-of-spec runout). The rub is opposite the pin, so wonder if the crank spread its wings a bit or maybe that side's bearing failed/spun (?).


Also...to make aluminum shine you'll need to either work it through a polish, smooth it out and etch it, or else blast it and then clear-coat it.

What kind of clear automotive?
as far as blasting the Engine you think pecan hulls would work best just to polish it up then clear?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Are you looking to ride the Ody or stare at it? :-)

Only kidding! I can be a perfectionist when it comes to my stuff also.

For function, I blasted my wife's cylinder and head with some pretty abrasive stuff but left the cases and pull start mechanism alone. The cylinder and head were so caked with mud there had to have been cooling issues.

Sounds like D money has some good ideas for case polishing.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
Both!!! I don't wanna climb in a pos. lol
Found what i was looking for at a truck stop for the aluminum.
Parts for Engine are starting to show up I had a cylinder that I dropped off to get honed. Picked up bearings for lower end. Pro x rod and crank pin and bearings on the way. Should have a runner before to much longer just need time to work on it. I am slammed working right now O well that is what pays for all this. Pics coming soon.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:41 pm
Posts: 624
Location: mustang,ok
:shock: Somebody call a doctor, the sickness is getting bad, just sold a gun to keep funding the oddy project!
I will need some pointers on my Engine build I saw speeds mods but what is hoserized? Oil passages
what ? Also can I get all the Lower seals in one place that is the last thing I need to have a complete
lower.
The versa complete gasket kit I bought has 3 metal seals do i just use one thin one or all seems I read to just use one somewhere if I used more that would lower my compression
right?
Speedchaser do you have any front bumpers I will be
needing one soon. Will be posting some more pics soon and more questions I am sure. :-)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:17 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Hoserized it the nickname used when Hoser rebuilds an Engine for you. The oil passages on the Fl350 are adequate so they don't need to be modified.

As far as head gaskets, you want to use just one of the thin gaskets in the three piece gasket assembly.

As far as speed secrets, the best bang for the buck is a good adjustable clutch.

My Fl350 will do 65mph my my fat ass in it and I weight 230lbs.

My mods are.....

Hillside Honda water cooled head
38mm Mikuni Carb
DG pipe with an FMF silencer
102c Clutch
Modified air box
UNI filter
Works rear shocks
Trail Tech Vapor

Rand


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:31 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Really Rand? I's surprised with that bigger carb your not getting more top speed.
I hit 69mph on the gps on a half mile or so WOT (Wide Open Throttle) run on pavement. Was a little over 8100rpm. Absolutely all it had.

My setup when I did this:
Airbox mod
Stock 32mm carb- 148 main
89 CR250 4 petal reed cage with stuffer
Mild porting
Rands(not that Rand^, it's a brand) liquid cooled head, also liquid cooled jug but I don't think that makes a performance increase.
.020 head gasket
Power Pro's pipe
Comet 94c
22" rear tires
Digatron for EGT and tach
Mine should be right at 1000lbs with me in it. I'm 290-300 plus all my junk I've added.
TPreeds is air cooled, hoserized, 38mm I think and it ran just as hard as mine did. Maybe a hair more up top. Not sure what speed we were at. We were on a smooth sod field.


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