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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Those pics of DaveM's bottom chassis cracks may,may not be JUST due to the sled conversion,but certainly would have accelarated it so.
I say this because one of my STOCK Odys had same fatigue crack where the bottom cross member is welded to the LHS bot roll cage.
I only found it because I had to get the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) out for rebuilding.
Then a couple of other members also said they had same crack! :shock:
I urge all you Ody owners to check your cracks. :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
bugeye59 wrote:
Those pics of DaveM's bottom chassis cracks may,may not be JUST due to the sled conversion,but certainly would have accelarated it so.
I say this because one of my STOCK Odys had same fatigue crack where the bottom cross member is welded to the LHS bot roll cage.
I only found it because I had to get the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ((Internal Combustion Engine?)) out for rebuilding.
Then a couple of other members also said they had same crack! :shock:
I urge all you Ody owners to check your cracks. :-)



Yup agreed I have seen other 350s crack in the same area that were not conversions.

Frame inspections for cracks should be done all the time as part of your pre-ride check but a real close inspection should be done every year, I have found cracks on my 3 wheelers and quads before many friends has also found them on the same and motorcycles, I have repaired and added gussets to two of them Yamahaha PW50 kids bikes where the frame almost broke in half.

Found one crack in my Pilot upper frame tube next to a weld so far, I expect to find more in the future.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
The Flying W wrote:
We have been very busy at work, landing several new major projects. This is great for everyone's bottom line, however, not so much for getting my Ody done. I did set some time aside today and managed to get the Engine on the Farr conversion mount, and remove the frame section that interferes with the recoil starter. I used cardboard to lay out the pattern for the section to be rebuilt, but found out I didn't have any plate to make the parts. I'll order that up and get it welded up later this week. Feels good to be making progress.



spend the extra time and make it removable so if you have to you can pull the pullstart,flywheel,and stator if you have to one day without removing the Engine


that's what im going to do when i put it there on mine

make it bolt up to the frame


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
A couple of bent (unusable) down tubes would come in real hand here to make a "bolt-on" frame section aside the Rotax recoil.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
Managed to get the frame work done today. I welded it in rather than making it removable. I have enough clearance that I can pull the recoil cover off as it sits. I am thinking about cutting a hole in the plate to make access to the stator easier though.


Attachments:
File comment: Everything in place and cleaned up.
20140222_161837.jpg
20140222_161837.jpg [ 61.27 KiB | Viewed 1007 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
looks good


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
Good grief, I can't believe it has been a month since my last post. I have been busy, with this project and others, se here is an update.

What has been taking up most of my time is some velocity stacks I had made up for people on another board I belong to. What was supposed to be a couple orders, turned into a massive group buy, and now I have more people wanting them, so I guess I will have to do it again.

I decided to spend some time on the Ody this weekend, and finally got one side of the front suspension hung. Took a while to do all the math to make sure it is straight and that it articulates properly without binding or making the wheel go all wonky. I think I got it though, and I am pretty happy. The other side will go much faster, as I have all the figures written down, and have most of the materials made up, ready to weld on. I wound up with 9 15/16" of travel without the shock mounted, and at full droop/bump have right at 2 degrees of -/+ camber, respectively. I set the arms so the spindle angle is right at 5 degrees to allow the steering to be a little on the slow side of neutral. I figured this was safe as it is such a short wheel base. Anyway, that's it for the updates for now. I'll get the other side hung hopefully this week, and then it is on to the wiring for the 583. Actually looking forward to that.


Attachments:
File comment: Velocity stacks for customers
20140314_095708.jpg
20140314_095708.jpg [ 69.2 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]
File comment: Finished stack
stack.jpg
stack.jpg [ 36.54 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]
File comment: Full droop
20140323_141852.jpg
20140323_141852.jpg [ 92.18 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]
File comment: Full bump
20140323_142111.jpg
20140323_142111.jpg [ 82.94 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]
File comment: Ride height (ish)
20140323_141744.jpg
20140323_141744.jpg [ 88.31 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
I should mention, it's 5 degrees of positive camber, and that the shock is not mounted in those pics. I just had it on to check clearance along the full motion of travel.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
what the velocity stacks for?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
B S wrote:
what the velocity stacks for?


Maybe he can make our intake manifolds next?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 6:13 am 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
Velocity stacks are for 2009-current Gen II Yamaha Vmax. Gets rid of air box, and have individual filters on top.

If you have a part you would like made up, send me a sample of what you need so I can have all of the critical dimensions, and some ideas of what you need, and I will look into getting them done. My machine shop is amazing, can do just about anything.

Yesterday, I began looking into having transmission output shaft adapters made that eliminate the stock Odyssey drive axle, replacing with a stub that a CV would mount to. I know it has been discussed nearly to death around here, but I have access to some great resources that can make it happen if we can nail down what needs to take place. So, any ideas on what CVs, hubs, and any other items to do a conversion, and I will get going on it. I am looking at doing this because I am worried about breaking an axle now with the 583 going in.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
The Flying W wrote:
Velocity stacks are for 2009-current Gen II Yamaha Vmax. Gets rid of air box, and have individual filters on top.

If you have a part you would like made up, send me a sample of what you need so I can have all of the critical dimensions, and some ideas of what you need, and I will look into getting them done. My machine shop is amazing, can do just about anything.

Yesterday, I began looking into having transmission output shaft adapters made that eliminate the stock Odyssey drive axle, replacing with a stub that a CV would mount to. I know it has been discussed nearly to death around here, but I have access to some great resources that can make it happen if we can nail down what needs to take place. So, any ideas on what CVs, hubs, and any other items to do a conversion, and I will get going on it. I am looking at doing this because I am worried about breaking an axle now with the 583 going in.


Do you do cad work, could you model the new manifold using a stock manifold and a Mikuni flange carb rubber thing?

Have you seen other discussions about what were talking about?

Rocky Cycle use to make them viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5630

Speedchaser started to make some for the 3 wheelers viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7908

Here is one like they used on the FL250's viewtopic.php?f=1&t=509&view=previous

More discussion viewtopic.php?f=37&t=13196

Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
i have 4 different ones to make cad files off of if you need too


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
Yes, we can do the CAD work. If you have a stock manifold and Mikuni boot that I could use for all the measurements, we could draw that up pretty quick. I do not have an Engine or any of the associated hardware to do the modeling with. Other than having a manifold that fits the Engine and the intake boot, from what I read in the other threads, it needs to be angled properly for clearance. I am happy to try this, but would have to send one out for trial fitting. Let's make it happen.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
The Flying W wrote:
Yes, we can do the CAD work. If you have a stock manifold and Mikuni boot that I could use for all the measurements, we could draw that up pretty quick. I do not have an Engine or any of the associated hardware to do the modeling with. Other than having a manifold that fits the Engine and the intake boot, from what I read in the other threads, it needs to be angled properly for clearance. I am happy to try this, but would have to send one out for trial fitting. Let's make it happen.

I have a old cracked intake manifold that I'd be willing to ship to you


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
B S, you have a PM.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
The Flying W wrote:
Yes, we can do the CAD work. If you have a stock manifold and Mikuni boot that I could use for all the measurements, we could draw that up pretty quick. I do not have an Engine or any of the associated hardware to do the modeling with. Other than having a manifold that fits the Engine and the intake boot, from what I read in the other threads, it needs to be angled properly for clearance. I am happy to try this, but would have to send one out for trial fitting. Let's make it happen.


I just reverse engineered it into Creo2 off of a 1:1 copier scan of the intake + some caliper measurements of an old intake + the Mikuni website specs. I can send you the .STP file of the FL350 version right now if you want to try making some! Just make me a good deal. ;) I have not checked the angle of the intake pad to the Engine side, though -- I guessed at 15-deg.

Based on 1.5x5 6061 bar stock cost, material should only be $5-$10 range per manifold.

I was gonna' send it up the street to my guy to quote, but they're slammed.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13205&start=25


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 pm
Posts: 28
Location: New Hampshire, Lakes Region
DMoneyAllstar, you have a PM.


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