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 Post subject: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:54 pm
Posts: 8
Finally fired the ody last night. Project nearing completion. I would like to thank Emmanual at farr Offroad for all the great parts that made this happen.
Posting some photo and info. Any questions or comments, please ask.
If anybody else is doing this mod and doesn't have the fabrication tools or experience.
Farr Offroad produces high quality parts and he is a great source for info.


Attachments:
File comment: Farr Offroad Rotax motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) Mount
20131013_072907.jpg
20131013_072907.jpg [ 247.76 KiB | Viewed 2275 times ]
File comment: Far Offroad Muffler
20131013_072841.jpg
20131013_072841.jpg [ 251.2 KiB | Viewed 2275 times ]
File comment: Far Offroad Rotax Pipe for 670
20131013_072826.jpg
20131013_072826.jpg [ 291.89 KiB | Viewed 2275 times ]
File comment: Far Offroad Rotax Electric Starter Bracket.
20131013_072813.jpg
20131013_072813.jpg [ 294.05 KiB | Viewed 2275 times ]
File comment: Modified factory air scoops work with Rotax pipe. Also act as heat shield.
20131013_072229.jpg
20131013_072229.jpg [ 65.37 KiB | Viewed 2275 times ]
File comment: Fabricated air box for Rotax dual carbs.
20131013_072841.jpg
20131013_072841.jpg [ 251.2 KiB | Viewed 2275 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
is your fuel tank outside the rear roll cage? If it is that's a big mistake. Your running over 100 hp in an odyssey and if you roll it you will be a fireball odyssey


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
we need video of this running,


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
shoubadaba wrote:
is your fuel tank outside the rear roll cage? If it is that's a big mistake. Your running over 100 hp in an odyssey and if you roll it you will be a fireball odyssey


If the guy making them kits had a clue he would lower the Engine 4-5" then you can keep things like the gas tank and the radiator inside the cage so the first time you roll the thing you don't have to spend a week and $$$ making repairs you just roll it over and ride again like the OEM design.


I have brought this up before nobody listens, they will understand the first time they are soaked in gas or covered in 250 degree antifreeze trying to get their harness off upside down.

Briggsbuilts put the gas tanks under the engines at least they didnt waste all that space like this Engine mount is wasting not to mention the added weight of a unnecessary over weight Engine mount.

My Engine mount could even be lowered almost another full inch if their is ever a version II then I will lower my Engine another 1" to further lower the center of gravity. viewtopic.php?t=744

Make sure ALL your brakes work before you turn on that 670 also make sure you allow about 2x as much braking distance as you normally would in a Pilot or Odyssey, you will shit once you feel how fast that Odyssey will now build speed and the first thing to cross your mind will probably be "I need more brakes" the Odyssey will feel heavy and the brakes will feel weak but when you come to your senses you will figure out its just momentum :-)


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
when are you ready for juniper? I think we plan on heading there in about a month


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Great to see another sled conversion.

Is the 670 plated to the trans as one unit?
If not,then you'll need a torque snubber to stop the twist of the 670motor caused by clutch engagement/activation.
Clutch parallelism between the drive and driven is paramount for clutch efficiency and belt longevity.

As hoser says,the new power to weight ratio of the sled Ody/Pilots is awesome and will quickly reveal the inadequate brakes,suspension etc.
Engine performance is just ONE thing,TOTAL buggy performance is Engine + brakes + suspension + steering etc
Everything will be more FUN,but also more RAPID.
Your eye to brain to hands coordination is up for re-schooling brudda! :-)
Have fun be safe...and at least learn to giggle like a man! :-)


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
hoser wrote:
shoubadaba wrote:
is your fuel tank outside the rear roll cage? If it is that's a big mistake. Your running over 100 hp in an odyssey and if you roll it you will be a fireball odyssey


If the guy making them kits had a clue he would lower the Engine 4-5" then you can keep things like the gas tank and the radiator inside the cage so the first time you roll the thing you don't have to spend a week and $$$ making repairs you just roll it over and ride again like the OEM design.


I have brought this up before nobody listens, they will understand the first time they are soaked in gas or covered in 250 degree antifreeze trying to get their harness off upside down.

Briggsbuilts put the gas tanks under the engines at least they didnt waste all that space like this Engine mount is wasting not to mention the added weight of a unnecessary over weight Engine mount.

My Engine mount could even be lowered almost another full inch if their is ever a version II then I will lower my Engine another 1" to further lower the center of gravity. viewtopic.php?t=744" ."..

Make sure ALL your brakes work before you turn on that 670 also make sure you allow about 2x as much braking distance as you normally would in a Pilot or Odyssey, you will shit once you feel how fast that Odyssey will now build speed and the first thing to cross your mind will probably be "I need more brakes" the Odyssey will feel heavy and the brakes will feel weak but when you come to your senses you will figure out its just momentum :-)


I have to agree with hoser on this one for sure.
I am a former sports car race driver and you MUST keep your fuel in a safe place, and it's not above your head in a can. At least buy a goddam fuel cell and mount in the frame. I see a lot of these oddys with fuel cans up high. My race car has been on fire before when fuel line broke and I had an electric fuel pump, not good. At least I had full nomex suit and fire suppression system, oddys don't.


Attachments:
Picture 033.jpg
Picture 033.jpg [ 92.63 KiB | Viewed 2214 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
hoser wrote:

If the guy making them kits had a clue he would lower the Engine 4-5" then you can keep things like the gas tank and the radiator inside the cage so the first time you roll the thing you don't have to spend a week and $$$ making repairs you just roll it over and ride again like the OEM design.

I have brought this up before nobody listens, they will understand the first time they are soaked in gas or covered in 250 degree antifreeze trying to get their harness off upside down.



I listened, I listened!! lol


There is pleeeenty of room inside the cage for the pipe, silencer, airbox, D/D carb, oil tank, radiator, overflow bottle, fuel tank, AND Engine.


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
hoser wrote:

If the guy making them kits had a clue he would lower the Engine 4-5" then you can keep things like the gas tank and the radiator inside the cage so the first time you roll the thing you don't have to spend a week and $$$ making repairs you just roll it over and ride again like the OEM design.

I have brought this up before nobody listens, they will understand the first time they are soaked in gas or covered in 250 degree antifreeze trying to get their harness off upside down.



I listened, I listened!! lol


There is pleeeenty of room inside the cage for the pipe, silencer, airbox, D/D carb, oil tank, radiator, overflow bottle, fuel tank, AND Engine.

i did too :-)
well other than my exhaust :-)


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 11:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:54 pm
Posts: 8
Thanks for all the great input. Tank is temp. To work out bugs.
As for Engine height how you lower the Engine and still have room for carbs.
They are already up against trans. I have another frame that I was considering stretching
6" that would give me room to drop everything to the bottom. It is also getting independent front suspension and long travel rear suspension. Just wants to ride while getting the rest together.
Limited resources.


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 11:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
the rotax is tough to lower in a stock frame since the carbs are down so low. carburetors from a Seadoo help greatly with clearance issues. that is what I am using to get my pilot Engine lower in the frame


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
mrmopar2000 wrote:
Thanks for all the great input. Tank is temp. To work out bugs.
As for Engine height how you lower the Engine and still have room for carbs.
They are already up against trans. I have another frame that I was considering stretching
6" that would give me room to drop everything to the bottom. It is also getting independent front suspension and long travel rear suspension. Just wants to ride while getting the rest together.
Limited resources.



Read up on this
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11471" ."..
I decided to go with this also
viewtopic.php?f=61&t=11981" ."..

D$* (DMoneyAllstar) does great work


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 1:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
Yeah on the ody the trans is much higher then the pilot.


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
How is it working out??


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
Does the kit include wire harness, radiator with lines? If not what is used and or instruction given as too what is needed?
Does the size belt change? Do you need to change shafts in the trans to handle the new powerplant?


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 Post subject: Re: FL350/670
PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:09 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Mudbogger wrote:
Does the kit include wire harness, radiator with lines? If not what is used and or instruction given as too what is needed?
Does the size belt change? Do you need to change shafts in the trans to handle the new powerplant?

the farr kit comes with the Engine, carbs, CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), coil,mount,header pipe ,muffler and if u get it starter,ring gear and mount
no hose or radiator or wiring or any of the bolts that you need to mount it


but the fl350 works with the stock belt

no instructions are included but u can call him

generally u need to get a civic radatior with 1'' hose inputs not 1.25''
bolts
reg/ref
wire
hose
fan

i know im missing stuff on the list


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