Well I picked up this from Craigslist the other day.



Runs perfect. Headlight is super bright. 450r front end is a super big improvement.



Besides some bumpers and a full belly skid plate. I think I'm good.



Any suggestions?

Should I tear into the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to make sure of anything?

I would do a compression check and a leakdown test to start with.

Rand

Thank you.

After the comp and leakdown check, I would pull the carb and reeds and take a gander at the condition of the bore & piston -- should be able to see enough from the intake side. If that filter is a K&N, it wasn't doing it any favors.

Check all the bolts, nuts, and lugnuts on suspension parts; cotter pins on castle nuts; etc; look for missing nuts/bolts/.

Check the balancer oil level; the gearbox oil level; and dump out the old fuel it came with and replace with fresh known mix.

Clean the carb; check what jets are in there (main & pilot); what needle clip position its at; what needle is in there; and make sure the slide is set right so you're getting full motion via the thumb throttle.

Look for crappy wire connections and wire-rat-nests hidden behind electrical tape.

Do a plug chop at least at idle and at WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

Where you from anyways?

Was from The Bronx, NY but now in Charlotte NC.

Thank you for the info. I went through the whole chassis before I got it. I want to make sure the sled motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap is not in the too near future. It runs super.

Amsoil and non ethanol gas only in the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) since rebuild. I know the previous owner and he is super OCD with everything he owns.

Also the carb is not the stock one. there is no provision for a choke cable, manual only. The rebuild consisted of new crank, and full top end replacement. I will take a pic of the old piston. I am concerned of why it needed a full rebuild and what was really done, what new piston, etc. He was not the owner at time of rebuild. I do know that there is supposed to be a OEM honda crank as the replacement and that it came from a honda mechanic.

Also thinking about a cross bar at the front - front lower control arm mount and the rear - front lower control arm mounting spot from right to left. It'll give me a spot for skid plate too.

Some More Pics

Whats the good Air Filter to use? should I go back with an air box and snorkel?

I would go back to stock air box and run a UNI filter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-FL350-ODY ... 3d&vxp=mtr

make sure you have oem stuffer frame.

I would then run your existing filter as a pre filter.

I suggest going back to the air box then so the prefilter mod viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11029 their are other examples many 350 owners has done this and I am sure provide examples.

You can view the Pilot air box mods and maybe inspire your own ideas viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8929

K&N info everybody should know about viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5491 these are filters tested in real world use under conditions not found in the lab and used when the mfg's test their filters, things like temperature, vibration, harmonics, pulsing air flow are a few things found in the real world and not in the lab.

I will see if I can create an air box. I do not have the original. What you see is what I have.

Shouldn't be an issue I can fab.

any suggestions for dimensions?

If you're gonna' fab one, make it a 2-stage setup. Dry (non-oiled) conical with a wrap as pre-filter, then make the airbox so it can accept a standard automotive square/rectangular panel air filter. The panel filter will be leaps & bounds better efficient than the UNI and will keep your intake and Engine clean-clean-clean.

Decided to go bigger instead of trying to tune the 350. motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) went out of balance the other day and I tore into it. Crank was wobbling on both sides. cases had some repairs and the case halves were not matched very well. There was mix leaking out of it. There was my tuning issues. Crank was not new as far as I could tell. 82mm bore. Again not new or recently rebuilt?

This side was nice and dry.

Sadly this side was nice and dry too.
Bottom of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) shows all.

Nice Running 128 compression + both cyls.

Fits like a glove. A fitted glove. Going to mess with isolated motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts and lower it a hair.

Next will be exhaust mods.

Would love to be able to pay someone to do the exhaust.

Nice choice on going bigger. You won't regret it! What Engine is that? I would suggest getting it as low as you can . keeps weight nice and low. Plus more room for other goodies.

There is not much more I can lower without frame mods. Really want to keep the frame stock. 1 inch square tubing, round tubing to match motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount bushings from the 350 and the slider plate from the motors previous home and I will have a nice mount done soon.

Whats this stuff about having to have a closed radiator since there is an overflow and filler on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?

the Engine looks like a john deer 440???

get a Honda civic radiator ill post a link 4 u for one that works for the fl350 Engine swaps




the exhaust is going to be a giant pain in da ass

your best option is to find a single chamber pipe for the Engine not the twin pipes (twin pipes look cool but take up a lot of room)


the twin pips are good for high end rev
the single chamber pipe is better for more torque

You should not need a special radiator... I don't think. I would leave the cap on the Engine sealed tight, maybe even capnoff that overflow tube, and then just use cap and overflow from a radiator like the civic.

Got some done today. Took hours to get the orientation. I have to have the Engine raised due to the carb setup. If someone has an intake manifold idea let me know. I would love to do a down Draft style 2 into 1.

I have no problem dropping the Engine lower at a later date.

I have the Engine set in place where the exhaust actually will bolt up. The seat will have to slide forward a bit Until I have a chance.to modify my two into one header and my full dg system?
I didn't want to but I had to cut the upper air scoop mount off. I may now run with out them we will see. I saved any mount I cut.

I still need to know the idea behind a close system rad. I have a Polaris rad and a closed sys gsxr 600 rad.

Yes John Deere liquidator 440. However since it is the Reed valve one it keeps coming up as a liquidfire. KEC44023LC

Finished up the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount

Pays to take time and not ruin factory mounting points.

Polaris 2 into 1 throttle and mix pump splitter to be repurposed.
Just learned how to make my own cables!

Made a 2 into 1 throttle cable, bolted down the carbs and exhaust.
Removed the plate for the gas tank.

That is looking great. What did the Engine come out of? I would like to have a good upgrade for mine, but around here snowmobiles are not easy to come by. 1" of snow and everything shuts down. Also what are you doing with the 350 Engine? I would like another Engine to build for a drop in. Thanks Billy

The other Engine has everything wrong. Bottom end won't seal without welding and center case matching. Intake port bridge broke off the cyl. Crank is good just needs to be reclocked. Crank bearings shot.