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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Hi all

Im new to the forum and the world of FL's but I'm an old member on a few 4x4 and biking communities so thought Id join up here when I started my project.

My Ody was gifted to me from a friend with too many projects (and children) to be able to take it on, knowing I would love it and do it justice he handed it over to me and I have waited no time! (My dad will be helping me, he loves these kinds of things.)

I live in Qatar in the Middle East, who knows how the hell a FL350 got here, this country is barley 15 years old, 29 years ago it was a small fishing village int he middle of the desert. Anyway, Its mine and I love it and this is my story! :-)

(P.S. Because I live in the Middle East I will have to ship in all the parts making it very expensive so I will do my homework with the stickies and other threads but when it comes to new parts I need to get your guys assistance with pointing me in the right direction with details would be highly appreciated so I don't end up shipping the wrong thing arroud the world.)

How I got her….
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It’s the desert so its VERY dusty and she has been outside a while.

First Impressions:
- It rolls, that’s good news.
- Its all here, every last piece including the OEM tool kit.
- The plastics and rubbers are shot throughout the desert heat has destroyed them.
- The surface rust is bad and on everything, its going to need a strip and clean up.
- The plastics are shot, again the desert heat.
- Suspension is shot and will need to be replaced.
- Absolutley stock and I love it that way, its going to keep its OEM look!

The Plan
- Strip it down and get the Engine and trans out, if the Engine and trans are ok it’s a viable project, if they are trashed I will need to re-evaluate.
- At the same time get all the auxiliary parts off, strip them, catalog them and draw up a parts list. (The buggy is too small for us to work together on the back end, he will get the Engine and trans out and ill start at the front and work my way back)

More Pictures

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After a high pressure wash and a bit of degrease the frame didn’t look so bad.

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Fenders, wheels, tyres, seats, air box, harness, net, cowling and spots off

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When we couldn’t get the Engine to turn over by hand we couldn’t resist the urge to pull the top end, completely stuck but in good shape, no visible damage to the sleeve or piston, must be the crank.

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I really hope all the electrickery is in order!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Looks like a good project

Welcome to the site


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Attachment:
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The carb looked ok, the fuel lines where hard and brittle…. The choke cable screw had sheered so it had to be cut to be removed.

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Rusty rusty front end but when we backed off the drum breaks both bearings ran freely and quietly….. some good news. One tie rod end was mounted ontop of the LCA and the oher was mounted under??? Ball joints seem ok.

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Removing the skit plate and lower Engine mounts the easy way, this was after the whole front end had been removed.


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The rear ends are bad, the bearings feel ok but the rust has hit the bolts to the point where I could get the assembly off the chassis but to get it apart im going to have to go find someone with an impact wrench and heat gun.


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This is where the choke went in, it looks like a brass tab has sheered off, can someone please confirm if this is ok? Am I looking at a new carb for my parts list?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Attachment:
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Attachment:
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The body seems to be ok, I'm going to see if i can clean the float bowl.

Conclusion:
- Engine will be fine, just needs to go to someone for the crank to be examined properly.
- Trans is fine
- A few aux items will need to be replced
- We are a GO!

Parts List at the moment
- Engine parts (TBD)
- Brive belt
- Spark plug
- Air filter
- Crank bearings and seals
- Gasket set
- Choke Cable
- New foot tub (will get a local boat maker to mould one from fiberglass)
- Just about every nut and bolt will need to be replaced
- Possibly a new break cylinder if I cant get the stripped screws out
- Possibly braided break lines if I cant get the lines to disconnect.
- Front and rear wheel bearings (might as well while im at it.)

Some questions
- How do I separate the upper and lower ball joints on the front arms. I have removed the spit pin and castle nut but they will NOT come out?
- What do you think of the carb, salvageable? And the brass insert for the choke?
- There are 2 seals on either end of the front suspension arms where they slip over the spindle. How are these removed without damaging them and are they easy to replace, they along with the ball joints may prevent me from getting the arms powder coated.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Sorry for the half nakedness, its 45 degrees F here so we are DAMN hot working outside!


:-)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
soak the carb in some carb clean it might let the brass choke plug out after it has some cleaner in between it and the carb body

the master cylinders are pricey to replace

don't powdercoat the j arms it will ruin the ball joints

to pop the ball joints out of the huub i hit bouth sides with a hammer at the same time and they generally will pop out


the best way i have found to clean a rusty dirty carb bowel is to sand blast it clean just make sure you clean it good after


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:28 pm
Posts: 80
Location: Calgary, AB
Nice project. I did a complete rebuild with my FL350 and it's almost done. You will be addicted to this thing :)
Like BS said don't powder coat the J arms. I don't know if you want to put it back like the original but the gold color for powder coating is really expensive. what I did I got all the red and black parts powder coated and I used a rattle spray can for all the gold parts. Yout foot tub doesn't seems to be bad.
Good Luck and please keep posting pictures.

People are really good here they will give you a lot of help along the way.

Skidoo13


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Flossy wrote:
Attachment:
carb 2.JPG

Attachment:
carb 5.JPG

The body seems to be ok, I'm going to see if i can clean the float bowl.

Conclusion:
- Engine will be fine, just needs to go to someone for the crank to be examined properly.
- Trans is fine
- A few aux items will need to be replced
- We are a GO!

Parts List at the moment
- Engine parts (TBD)
- Brive belt
- Spark plug
- Air filter
- Crank bearings and seals
- Gasket set
- Choke Cable
- New foot tub (will get a local boat maker to mould one from fiberglass)
- Just about every nut and bolt will need to be replaced
- Possibly a new break cylinder if I cant get the stripped screws out
- Possibly braided break lines if I cant get the lines to disconnect.
- Front and rear wheel bearings (might as well while im at it.)

Some questions
- How do I separate the upper and lower ball joints on the front arms. I have removed the spit pin and castle nut but they will NOT come out?
- What do you think of the carb, salvageable? And the brass insert for the choke?
- There are 2 seals on either end of the front suspension arms where they slip over the spindle. How are these removed without damaging them and are they easy to replace, they along with the ball joints may prevent me from getting the arms powder coated.


Welcome to the site.
Everyone here seems knowledgeable and helpful.
With regards to the crank seals you will find that you can't get the original double lip crank seal anymore. I live in Canada and got some double lip seals from England. I have had no issue yet but they are 11mm wide and the stock oddy is 8mm, they will fit and will work. I got my seals from Simply Bearings Lancashire England www.simplybearings.co.uk and you should be able to get the bearings from them as well. I ordered (5) 45x62x11 DC (double lip) seals and they cost me $29.30 UK dollars total and it took about two weeks. As for the gasket sets you should be able to get them from Vesrah or Athena. Just google for the web sites.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
canadian oddy wrote:
Flossy wrote:
Attachment:
carb 2.JPG

Attachment:
carb 5.JPG

The body seems to be ok, I'm going to see if i can clean the float bowl.

Conclusion:
- Engine will be fine, just needs to go to someone for the crank to be examined properly.
- Trans is fine
- A few aux items will need to be replced
- We are a GO!

Parts List at the moment
- Engine parts (TBD)
- Brive belt
- Spark plug
- Air filter
- Crank bearings and seals
- Gasket set
- Choke Cable
- New foot tub (will get a local boat maker to mould one from fiberglass)
- Just about every nut and bolt will need to be replaced
- Possibly a new break cylinder if I cant get the stripped screws out
- Possibly braided break lines if I cant get the lines to disconnect.
- Front and rear wheel bearings (might as well while im at it.)

Some questions
- How do I separate the upper and lower ball joints on the front arms. I have removed the spit pin and castle nut but they will NOT come out?
- What do you think of the carb, salvageable? And the brass insert for the choke?
- There are 2 seals on either end of the front suspension arms where they slip over the spindle. How are these removed without damaging them and are they easy to replace, they along with the ball joints may prevent me from getting the arms powder coated.


Welcome to the site.
Everyone here seems knowledgeable and helpful.
With regards to the crank seals you will find that you can't get the original double lip crank seal anymore. I live in Canada and got some double lip seals from England. I have had no issue yet but they are 11mm wide and the stock oddy is 8mm, they will fit and will work. I got my seals from Simply Bearings Lancashire England http://www.simplybearings.co.uk and you should be able to get the bearings from them as well. I ordered (5) 45x62x11 DC (double lip) seals and they cost me $29.30 UK dollars total and it took about two weeks. As for the gasket sets you should be able to get them from Vesrah or Athena. Just google for the web sites.

you can get the seal from odd atv

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-FL350-ODY ... d6&vxp=mtr
were u aware of that?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Thanks for the responses, I've just been looking at a few build threads as well and it looks like everyone rattle cans their front arms so ill be heading the same way as per the above comments!

I'll take my favourite tool (the BFG) to them tomorrow to remove them from the hub and start to break down the front hubs and set the arms sanded down.

Considering she will now spend her entire life in the sand dunes do you think its worth getting a 39mm flat side carb (as often recommended) or just work to get my current carb operational? (i.e. will it make a noticeable difference?)

Thanks for the info on the crank bearings and seals, the "kit" I bought did not mention the specks of the seal mm but I'm hopeful, we will see when they arrive. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130960488038?it ... m=&vxp=mtr


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Will changing the carb alone make a noticeable difference all by itself.....no.

In order to gain enough performance to be noticeable you have to make changes to several areas such as air filter, reeds and also exhaust.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Flossy wrote:
Thanks for the responses, I've just been looking at a few build threads as well and it looks like everyone rattle cans their front arms so ill be heading the same way as per the above comments!

I'll take my favourite tool (the BFG) to them tomorrow to remove them from the hub and start to break down the front hubs and set the arms sanded down.

Considering she will now spend her entire life in the sand dunes do you think its worth getting a 39mm flat side carb (as often recommended) or just work to get my current carb operational? (i.e. will it make a noticeable difference?)

Thanks for the info on the crank bearings and seals, the "kit" I bought did not mention the specks of the seal mm but I'm hopeful, we will see when they arrive. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130960488038?it ... m=&vxp=mtr



i had a 39mm pwk ,DG pipe ,v force 3 reeds(boysen reeds are good ) ,billet intake ,watercooled head and some porting and it hauled ass


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
38mm Mikuni with a DG pipe and FMF Quiet Core II v/s a 36mm Keihin Air Striker and a Power Pros pipe.......

The 36mm and the Power Pros had a lot more torque. I didn't notice any difference in top end speed.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
OOPS....Fat Fingers!

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 11:53 am
Posts: 240
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Someone on here recommended Pine Sol to clean out the carb. I tried it and it worked GREAT on a carb off a 1986 TRX70. The little quad was sitting outside for 10 years, was never ridden, and the owner left gas in it. Needless to say, the gas turned to varnish and no amount of carb cleaner and scrubbing seemed to get it off. I filled a jar with Pine Sol, completely disassembled the carb, soaked all the parts in the jar overnight, and the next day they were like new. Crazy stuff man. I never would have thought. It even cleaned out the pilot jet, and that was one small jet.

Plus, your parts will have a nice pine fresh scent!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Ill see if I can find pinesol here.

That being said, the air box will be modded, the reeds have to be replaced and I can have someone here open up the exhaust a but. I'm 6ft 200lbs so extra torque is welcome! I think I should upgrade the carb.. I can get a Keihin 39mm Flat Side carb from amazon for $175 with a choke (so I won't need to replace my choke cable) link below.

Ive seen some members say you need a different top cap to make the new carb work with the standard throttle cable??

I know the 39mm will work with the standard manifold from this http://pilotodyssey.com/39mm350.htm and will just get Boyesen Reeds, can someone please confirm that the 607 power reeds will work / is the right decision with the uprated carb.


Intended Purchases
Reeds: http://www.amazon.com/Boyesen-607-Power ... power+reed

Carb: http://www.amazon.com/SUDCO-39MM-KEIHIN ... eihin+39mm

Front Break Shoes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-BRAKE-SHO ... 08&vxp=mtr

Wheel Bearings: (Is there anything I need to know for the bearings? Ive checked the workshop manual and they seem straight forward)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-FL350R-Od ... 3f&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-HONDA-FL35 ... dc&vxp=mtr

Ill go to a local auto parts store with the ball joint rubber caps and see if I can find something that will work, mine are torn.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 6:27 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Hey Flossy,be careful with that pine-sol man...it's scary shit! Image
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENygQpTMC7s


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
The plastics… wondering what can be salvaged by the fibreglass guys.
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The current shocks, ill take them apart tonight and see what their status is…. probably end up going with Works in the future.
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Trailing arms, I'm going to need a workshop with an impact wrench to get them apart.
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Parts ready for the sand blaster
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Some updated images of progress.

I went oversees for a month so everything went on hold but its very nearly rebuild time!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Fixing up the yoke
Sanding down the brittle foot tub to cast a Fiberglas mold.
Sanding down the driven clutch putted surfaces.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Hows this for a stuck top end!
My superman mechanic had to fabricate a puller to get the top end off.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
Rod Kit and Piston have arrived.

I stupidly bought 2 oversize instead of 1 over size so it will have to be bored out to 81mm


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:41 pm
Posts: 16
There is A LOT in the post at the moment:
- break disk and pads (my disk was cracked right through)
- Master cylinder rebuild kit
- Commet Clutch
- Fuel line
- OEM style fuel filters
- New Gas Tank Cap

I did the airbox mod and cast the fiberglass mold last night but forgot to take pictures!


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