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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
PilotLoG0403 wrote:
Is that bed liner spray smooth? I had the previous owner of my pilot use some super rough bed liner stuff on the foot tub and I removed it because it would tear the crap out of your legs if you were wearing shorts, just a heads up but it looks smooth in the picture :-)

It has a smooth texture , not ruff, I can rub my hand on it and it just slides on it.
Bob -::


-Jason


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
Fawcett999 wrote:
I'm not sure if I'm more impressed by the hella deal you got on your pilot,....... or your living room FULL of firearms. Nice collection. Whats that pistol with the scope on the rest. 22cal
?


The pistol is made by Thompson Center Arms, it is called a Contender, it has a 14" barrel and is chambered for 223 Remington, it has a 2.5-7 power pistol scope.
What is really cool about it is you can buy other barrels for it in dozens of different calibers so you can shoot a lot a calibers from 22lr up to 45/70, I think my cousin has one in some sort of 50cal pistol cartridge. I remember now his is in 50 Alaskan which is a rifle cartridge shortened up and neck out to 50 cal :-) , i want to shoot that some day.


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contender pistol 223 003.JPG [ 66.84 KiB | Viewed 852 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
My dad used to shoot a TC 7-30 Waters in competitive silhouette (scoped). The gun was a pure blunderbust and would shoot a 12" flame out the barrel, but could knockdown a giant cast-iron target at 100yds. I re-loaded shells with him a lot, and always remember my mom jumping through the roof when she'd vacuum up a live primer that was lost in the carpet, lol. He had DOZENS of 40/40 pins and trophies.


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
My dad used to shoot a TC 7-30 Waters in competitive silhouette (scoped). The gun was a pure blunderbust and would shoot a 12" flame out the barrel, but could knockdown a giant cast-iron target at 100yds. I re-loaded shells with him a lot, and always remember my mom jumping through the roof when she'd vacuum up a live primer that was lost in the carpet, lol. He had DOZENS of 40/40 pins and trophies.


I have knocked down a lot of metallic silhouette targets, when I was about 14 years old my dad made the targets for a friend of his that owned a shooting range, they were cut from a solid steel plate not cast iron,
I would work on the range setting up the ram targets at 200 yards, just sat behind a big dirt berm and waited for them to blow a air horn then I would come out and set the target back up, good thing OSHA never came out there, child labor with bullets flying overhead :shock:
I would go on the shooting line when the guy's were practicing and get them to let me shoot there cool custom pistol's lot's of Contender's and Remington XP-100 bolt action pistols and numerous revolvers. :-)
Bob -::


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
Thought I would try some rust removal today, The driven clutch that came with my project is covered in rust so I figured it could not hurt to try to get the rust off.

I will try electrolysis to see how well it works

First thing I did was get a plastic bucket, put some Arm & Hammer washing powder in it, put some water in it , placed the clutch in the water, used a old pry bar to hook up the battery charger positive cable up to and hung it on the inside of the bucket, hooked the negative cable up to the clutch.
Plugged in the charger and almost instantly the water in the bucket to start bubbling .

I only paid $3.00 for the battery charger at a garage sale, still has the little tag on it :-)

I will give it a day and see how well it works.

Bob -::


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
let the clutch soak for about 5 hours, Had to move the electrode around a couple times and put the negative cable on both sides of the clutch to get all the rust off.
Next time I do this I will make a better set up with multiple positive electrodes ,I looked at a few different setup's online that seem to work good.

After the rust was removed there is a lot of pitting in the metal, washed off the crap and hit it with a wire brush them sprayed it with some oil so it wont rust up again.
The clutch face where the belt goes did not have much rust on it and only has a slight bit of pitting in a few spots.

I think I will paint the outside face of the clutch so it will look better.

Now I am doing the gas tank :-)

Bob -::


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pilot driven clutch rust removed 001.JPG
pilot driven clutch rust removed 001.JPG [ 86.97 KiB | Viewed 782 times ]
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pilot driven clutch rust removed 003.JPG [ 82.91 KiB | Viewed 782 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
My driven clutch has a few bad pits around the top of where the belt rides. I wasn't too concerned as the belt won't spend much time at the top of the driven anyhow


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
No luck with the gas tank, It has a lot of thick black crap stuck on the inside, I think the previous owner took the tank off when it still had a bunch of gas in it and let it sit for many years and the gas dried up and left this thick crap stuck all over in the tank, the spots that did not have the black thick stuff looks good now, it did get rid of the rust just not that other crap.
I am not worried, I was not planning on using the stock tank anyway, and I found a very tiny hole in the tank and somebody beat up the filler neck trying to pry off the gas cap.

I am now working on getting the rust off the front fender brackets, Not going to use them, just going to get the rust off then paint then sell them.

Bob -::


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
nitrosport_5 wrote:
My driven clutch has a few bad pits around the top of where the belt rides. I wasn't too concerned as the belt won't spend much time at the top of the driven anyhow


Yes that is what I was thinking.
Thanks
Bob


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Now that you soaked it in water and zapped it with electricity you need to take it apart and service the inside, you can get a idea looking at some of the pics here http://www.pilotodyssey.com/pilotdriven1.htm and at the parts diagram http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/H ... parts.html and by using the service manual.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
hoser wrote:
Now that you soaked it in water and zapped it with electricity you need to take it apart and service the inside, you can get a idea looking at some of the pics here http://www.pilotodyssey.com/pilotdriven1.htm and at the parts diagram http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/H ... parts.html and by using the service manual.

Image


Thanks hoser, just took it apart, Now I see why the manual says to use a special tool , that spring is under a lot of pressure LOL.
Insides look great, it was greased up really good.
Probably should have taken it apart in the first place to get the rust off, next time I will know better.

Bob -::


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 Post subject: Re: $250 PILOT
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 10:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
badbob66 wrote:
hoser wrote:
Now that you soaked it in water and zapped it with electricity you need to take it apart and service the inside, you can get a idea looking at some of the pics here http://www.pilotodyssey.com/pilotdriven1.htm and at the parts diagram http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/H ... parts.html and by using the service manual.

Image


Thanks hoser, just took it apart, Now I see why the manual says to use a special tool , that spring is under a lot of pressure LOL.
Insides look great, it was greased up really good.
Probably should have taken it apart in the first place to get the rust off, next time I will know better.

Bob -::



I made my own spring compressor out of a 3/8" threaded rod and some bent up metal pieces to provide clearance to install/remove the snap ring. Pretty sure if you look it the service manual you can figure out what to make if not let me know I can take pics of mine, I need to hoserize the driven off my LT anyways.

Their is a right and a wrong way to install that snap ring, if you look real close at them they are stamped out of spring steel and one side of the snap ring will be perfectly FLAT the other side the edges will be ROUNDED off if you install the rounded off side on the side of the groove that has pressure on the rounded off part chances are that the snap ring will pop off.

This happen to me years ago when I allowed someone to modify and assembly one of my Pilot driven clutches and he installed the snap ring the wrong side up, I flipped it over and reinstalled and its never come off since, thousands and thousands of miles....


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