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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 3:59 am 
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Posts: 29
Hey gang, new to the forum and the sport of mini buggies! Just picked up a EEE stadium lite and couldn’t be more excited. It has a pretty tricked out Engine and bored to around a 475cc… with an FL350 bottom end out of the odyssey. If anyone knows anything more about these, please let me know! I’m pretty new to this world and definitely looking forward to taking her out to Ocotillio next weekend to see what she can do! I also have a set of paddle tires on bead lock wheels so shes ready for Glamis! I live down here in San Diego.

Has FOX podium shocks all around and overall in pretty good shape. Doesn’t need too much, but i have a nice list going. Ordered new CV axels, usually first thing to break on these right? Got a new spark plug, new battery, cleaned air filter, fuel lines, coolant, and going to run 40:1 on 91 octane.

Can’t wait to see how she does. Going to post up some video and more photos when I can. Thanks friends!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:05 am 
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Location: CHICO,CA
Welcome to the forum

Post some photos of the Engine bay

Its probably a older 405 Engine like they used to use in the Briggs cars


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 9:26 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Welcome to the site. that's a nice machine. Engine photos please.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:28 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:54 pm
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Location: corona
There will be alot of us in glamis on halloween. Bring it on out.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:22 pm
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Location: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
I used to have one of those. Wouldn't turn to save it's life! Fun car though, front end is really light, I would ride 30' wheelies off razor backs. Like Halo said, bring it to Glamis for Halloween. PM me if you are interisted. Can give you cell #s and stuff.
Nick


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:36 pm 
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Sweet ride, might want to check compression to make sure 91 octane will work, the last pilot I bought had a static reading of 210lbs, yea I had to get a new head.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:36 am 
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Hey guys,

I figured the best way to update some pics was to make an album and share it with everyone.

The link is: https://plus.google.com/photos/11092787 ... 5290590929

As you can tell, I’ve done a little bit of work to it when i got it to just get her ready for the first trip out. I replaced both CV’s with VW7005 axels.

We headed to Ocotillio over the weekend to see how she was dialed in. First off, amazing car! So much power and super fun to drive. Did a few donuts, some whoops but nothing crazy.

Then disaster strikes. No more than 10 minutes after its first ride, one of the CVs popped off of the shaft. It ripped the boot, lost some bearings, completely broken. I haven’t taken it apart yet, but I’m wondering why this happened so quickly? They were brand new CV’s and i have a life time warranty with O’rileys so i’ll get it swapped out. But don’t want it to happen again of course.

Any thoughts? i’m not sure what else may have broke but i’ll find out and post up some pics and details as soon as I do tom afternoon.

I live in San Diego, and definitely looking for some help. Need a local mechanic to help with the major items like Engine, tranny, cv’s, etc.

Thanks guys, really loving the car and know it has some amazing capability. Just want to get it up and ready for the near desert season ASAP!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 6:02 am 
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Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
mossubi wrote:
Hey guys,

I figured the best way to update some pics was to make an album and share it with everyone.

The link is: https://plus.google.com/photos/11092787 ... 5290590929

As you can tell, I’ve done a little bit of work to it when i got it to just get her ready for the first trip out. I replaced both CV’s with VW7005 axels.

We headed to Ocotillio over the weekend to see how she was dialed in. First off, amazing car! So much power and super fun to drive. Did a few donuts, some whoops but nothing crazy.

Then disaster strikes. No more than 10 minutes after its first ride, one of the CVs popped off of the shaft. It ripped the boot, lost some bearings, completely broken. I haven’t taken it apart yet, but I’m wondering why this happened so quickly? They were brand new CV’s and i have a life time warranty with O’rileys so i’ll get it swapped out. But don’t want it to happen again of course.

Any thoughts? i’m not sure what else may have broke but i’ll find out and post up some pics and details as soon as I do tom afternoon.

I live in San Diego, and definitely looking for some help. Need a local mechanic to help with the major items like Engine, tranny, cv’s, etc.

Thanks guys, really loving the car and know it has some amazing capability. Just want to get it up and ready for the near desert season ASAP!



What was wrong with your old axles?

I have no clue what happen and why they failed but I would bet about anything that any of the high volume axle sellers are using rebuilders that are using the lowest quality parts they can buy from the china area of the world to rebuild your axles, they are NOT using the highest quality materials and the highest quality skilled labor to assemble the axles.

If it was mine I would go find some OEM axles even if they were used I would rely and bet on them old beat up OEM axles over a rebuild from Orilies or ANY other high volume low quality auto parts retailer, if I could not find a reason to replace the old axles I would reinstall them.

Other thoughts, was the axles that came with your car modified inside I know they use to modify the VW axles used on the briggs cars internally for more running angle, they ground deeper grooves inside some place so they would not bind up and break in use, chances are your axles had a similar mod done to them installing a unmodified axle would probably fail really soon if internal modifications were required.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 10:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
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After installing the assemblies did you check for binding at full droop? I had Lobro
Cv assemblies that were binding. I know people hate the china stuff but the only
Cv's I could find with enough travel/articulation were Empi type 2s. They say 25 degrees
And I needed at least 18. What type cv's does your setup use? Make sure the axles lengths
Are the same as well. I know it sounds stupid but I've come to realize it's the
Little overlooked things that get forgotten and ruin a weekend.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:56 pm 
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What was wrong with your old axles?
On the old ones, one of the boots was ripped pretty good and def needed to be replaced. I figured instead of rebuilding them, it would be easier / the same cost to just buy some new ones. The previous owner got them from O'rileys as well, so i knew they weren't anything special.

I have no clue what happen and why they failed but I would bet about anything that any of the high volume axle sellers are using rebuilders that are using the lowest quality parts they can buy from the china area of the world to rebuild your axles, they are NOT using the highest quality materials and the highest quality skilled labor to assemble the axles.
I agree that they aren't very good quality, but even so, that wouldn't particularly cause them to fail so quickly would they? I feel like if i hit a 40' jump and landed on one wheel it would have broke something sure, but didn't really do anything out of the ordinary during the break.

If it was mine I would go find some OEM axles even if they were used I would rely and bet on them old beat up OEM axles over a rebuild from Orilies or ANY other high volume low quality auto parts retailer, if I could not find a reason to replace the old axles I would reinstall them.
Yeah I will look into finding another vendor for axles.

Other thoughts, was the axles that came with your car modified inside I know they use to modify the VW axles used on the briggs cars internally for more running angle, they ground deeper grooves inside some place so they would not bind up and break in use, chances are your axles had a similar mod done to them installing a unmodified axle would probably fail really soon if internal modifications were required.[/quote]
Interesting, i don't think they were modified cause again the previous owner just bought new ones from Orilieys. But the boot was ripped on one of them, so maybe he had a similar instance? Either way, i would like to find a solution that works, and seeing that it may be binding too much on full droop would suspect that the angle is too much. Maybe shorter limiting straps would help? or instead of limiting straps do another shock mount? I found this old photo of what the car used to look like: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4dq4xungxz9n ... 0.png?dl=0 - that would maybe help?

I have taken more photos of the break on added them to my album - look towards the bottom and you can check out the damage. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1109 ... 5290590929

Thanks Hoser!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:23 pm 
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Rppjr wrote:
After installing the assemblies did you check for binding at full droop?
I did check for binding and at full droop, they still moved pretty well, but after looking at it now, its really tight. and i can see how it would just pop out under the right situation and load. Tighter limiting straps maybe?

I had Lobro Cv assemblies that were binding. I know people hate the china stuff but the only Cv's I could find with enough travel/articulation were Empi type 2s. They say 25 degrees And I needed at least 18. What type cv's does your setup use?
Yeah that's great. I didn't measure the angle either, just a simple swap / bolt on i figured that all the hard work was taken care of finding the proper axles for the car, but maybe they are not long enough? Or that the angle at full droop is too extreme and i should shorten up the limit strap to keep it from extending down too far? The label on the box that i got is: http://i.imgur.com/flQdmEB.jpg so maybe that helps?

Make sure the axles lengths Are the same as well. I know it sounds stupid but I've come to realize it's the Little overlooked things that get forgotten and ruin a weekend.

They are actually the same axles on each side. I ordered 2 of these VW7002 axles so yes they are the same length. I hear ya though, that's how some of the dumbest mistakes are made haha but i was pretty thorough in looking over every detail cause i really wanted it to run well yesterday. Oh well, good thing its early and we have some time!

Thanks Rppjr! Talk soon


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:29 am 
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Just got a magnetic angle finder and measured the angle of the CV's and at full droop with the limiting straps attached and the back end jacked up, the angle of the axles is at 20 degrees. I know that these axles are safely able to withstand that angle so wondering if something in the tranny broke that caused the CV to lock up?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:12 pm 
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Posts: 550
I live in Murrieta right above temecula if you want to bring it here I can help you trouble shoot the problem. Most important check for axle piung, grab the axle and move it in and out, if you don't have enough it will brake the CV cage, that besides over travel of the cv is the only reasin a cv will brake. If that little car has Vw type 1 cv joints the cv cages are beyond junk hard and very brittle. I don't know if they make race quality cv cages for type 1 cv joints anymore, Empie might be your closest bet with a chance they do, I would throw those away and put race preped Vw type 2 cv joints on it. It will take changing of parts but once done your cv problem will go away. If Empie does infact make race preped type 1 cv cages go that rout for expence. Check with Race Ready Products in Chula Vista 619 692-9171 and speak to Bob, if they or anyone else makes a aftermarket cage for a type 1 cv he will know. If your car has type 2 same thing, buy empie race prep cvs, they last and work great. If your car has type 1 cvs, 20 degree angle is to much, max is about 16-17 if you don't want them to break, yes they will spin free at 23 degrees, but as you found after a few minutes one broke at 20. I have decades of off road racing experience with these parts. Looks to have some heavy angle going back, I don't understand why the rear arms were not made longer to take that angle away and give much more wheel travel. Drakart does the same thing with a plunging axle that could have been so much simpler with the axle straightend out. I didnt read the thread, only where you were looking for help


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:37 pm 
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Dave-co, thanks for the response. Yeah i'm not even sure if these are type 1 or type 2 axles haha trying to figure that out. I DO know that they are off of a VW rabbit 88, and the part is a VW7005, but not even sure if THAT is the right axle. I just spoke with Bob, super nice guy and I think I'm going to take this axle that I have down to his shop and see if we can find something stronger that will work, or modify it to fit on my car. But as of right now, i think the new axle i get again from O'rilly will break haha. But I'll try them out again regardless this weekend. The way the rear arms are built, totally agree. The angle is just pushing the axle forward and it seems so much easier if it would just come directly out of the output shaft and be straight, not at a crazy angle. I did get shorter limiting straps because I think that 20 degrees is too much for any axle, so since the straps were 22", i got some that were 20" and hopefully that helps it out as well. Again, we'll see! Gonna go talk to Bob!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:40 pm 
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Check out this link for some good info on cv assemblies.
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... ts_101.htm


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:20 pm 
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Rppjr wrote:
Check out this link for some good info on cv assemblies.
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... ts_101.htm


Thank you! So, since I have an FL350 tranny, and then i have these funky little cups that bolt onto that spline, and into a new 6-bolt pattern to hold the cv female end, and then goes the axle shaft, and into the hub... can't i do something at the source or the problem?

Get rid of that 'cup' that has 3 bolts on it that goes directly to the transmission shafts? Here is a photo, but flip through i have a LOT on there: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1109 ... 1646426295

Just seems like i could go with a stronger axle and do it right the first time. I am picking up a new axle tom from O'rillys, but im pretty sure i'll break it, even with my shorter limiting straps haha


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:46 pm 
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Location: Springfield Ohio
That's a Comet FND box, not a FL350.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:51 pm 
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Location: CHICO,CA
Lee wrote:
That's a Comet FND box, not a FL350.

that's a coleman fnr trans not a comet


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:04 pm 
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An old pic I found. Fewer parts in the way.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 1:03 am 
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So, its not an FL350 trans? and were certain it is a Coleman FNR trans instead? Thanks guys appreciate it.

Took the buggy out again today, and of course, like clockwork - i busted a CV 0.82 miles into the ride. Didn't even do anything out of the ordinary, just cruising, hit a little decline with some rutted out trail, went slow, popped right out, dammit! This time it was on the other side (driver side). So, these are VW7002 axles, i think its fair to assume that they are the wrong ones? How would I go about getting a nice pair of solid (stainless / chromoly) axles that i know aren't going to fail over the littlest bump? I know this car is more capable than what it has demonstrated so far. I think a little tikes electric jeep is more capable than this thing right now.

As always, any and all help is appreciative. Whats next? Anyone know of some legit driveline shops that can make a pair of race ready CV's for this car?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 1:03 am 
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Rppjr wrote:
An old pic I found. Fewer parts in the way.


SICK pic, is there an album somewhere? would love to take a look at some more vintage photos and see maybe if we can narrow down what the driveline is thinking for the CV's. Gotta be a better way :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:18 am 
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Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Check your driven clutch slipper/button thingys. :-)
Looks like the reverse slipper has escaped and been mangled/eaten by the spring? :shock:
This will also bind up your spring prematurely...and no one likes being prem do dey? :-)
It will stop/hinder full driven shift,limit your upshift gear ratio,top speed and keep in high RPM's.
Mark your drive clutch sheaves with a sharpie pen,then go for a ning ning,and recheck how the wear marks look.
I can't see them reaching full shift with that slipper jammed in the driven spring?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:10 pm 
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bugeye59 wrote:
Check your driven clutch slipper/button thingys. :-)
Looks like the reverse slipper has escaped and been mangled/eaten by the spring? :shock:
This will also bind up your spring prematurely...and no one likes being prem do dey? :-)
It will stop/hinder full driven shift,limit your upshift gear ratio,top speed and keep in high RPM's.
Mark your drive clutch sheaves with a sharpie pen,then go for a ning ning,and recheck how the wear marks look.
I can't see them reaching full shift with that slipper jammed in the driven spring?



Sorry not sure what you mentioning? The 'drive clutch sheaves'? where is that particularly? Right now, the car doesn't go anywhere cause the CV's are all sorts of jacked. But, when i get it running again with the proper set up, i'll try to do this.

So, any ideas on how to find the proper CV's for this car?!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 4:12 pm 
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Can you get the old ones back? I would try, then disassemble them and compare it to the ones from the parts store. Where you able to figure out what type cv they are (type 1-2-3-4)? And which part is actually breaking. Is it the cage or ??


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:22 pm 
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Rppjr wrote:
Can you get the old ones back? I would try, then disassemble them and compare it to the ones from the parts store. Where you able to figure out what type cv they are (type 1-2-3-4)? And which part is actually breaking. Is it the cage or ??


I do still have one of the originals (i think, idk) it came with the car but who knows if this is what is supposed to be on it.

I don't have the axle off the car yet, but i think its the cage yes. The axles i have right now are these ones. http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product ... t%3a%3a%3a

Pretty common VW axle made for the rabbit, golf, jetta, etc. I think they are type 1 but based on this website, (http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... ts_101.htm) its saying that the outer diameter of the connecting joint that goes onto the transmission, is 94mm, and mine is only 90mm so i'm not sure.

My next plan is take the original axle that came with the car (if its the right one) and take it to Race Ready Products and talk to Bob. Maybe he can find me the right ones, or help make some for me?


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