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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
jknarfal wrote:
What is the spline count and the wheel mounting size of that hub? I think ill have to build my own hubs. (1) I will need a custom offset (2) I already purchased my rear wheels and tires so I'd like to stick with the factory lug pattern.



The Rzr/Rgr 800 and Sportsman 700 REAR axle have a 26-spline hub/outer. This is for like 04-07 Sportsman and the 09-14 Rzr/Rgr. Only things I've really looked at, so only ones I know.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
afastcar wrote:
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
afastcar wrote:
Haven't the FL350 issues been dealt with I think it's called a FL400?


Haaaa! But last time I checked, you couldn't get a Pilot axle brand new for $70-$100 either. :-)

Simply put, its a DIY fab'venture.

Cost to DIY a LT axle/carrier/hub set for the same stock 3'fiddy trans: $250 + links/arms
Cost to buy a RPM box with axles and stubs (no carrier, no hubs): $2000+.
Cost to buy a Pilot: $4000+.


I still don't see it.
You have to buy a 350.
Put A-arm front suspension on it.
Water cool head, radiator, plumbing, overflow bottle.
Build rear suspension.
All this for under $4000?
And you still don't have side panels, clutch in trans, you have cable brakes, then when you go to sale it it's worth $2000 still and the Pilots still worth $4000.



Its assumed someone already owns the FL350 and wants to improve it. Nothin' more.

Not trying to out-do the Pilot. Just make the FL350 rear end "cooler" and on a squeaky budget and while having some fab-fun.

If money wasn't an issue...I'd just go out and buy someone's completed turbo-Busa-powered, RPM-driven, LT, chromoly-caged, 2-seater buggy and blow the doors off everything. But that's not what I'm after. I ride on farm land, have limited disposable income available for buggy stuff, already own a few FL350's, and love to design/fab/drive/fix my own stuff. Its a challenge and its fun, not always practical.


I gota second this comment.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:56 pm
Posts: 550
I figure a lot of people own them and a lot have asked me for help with them to improve them. The platform is there and not everyone who has 1 can go out and buy a pilot like some can simply because its a better machine. If it was that easy pilots would be unobtainable. I had a ton of fun in 350s as well as my family. It has faults that can be overcome, I will try to do that.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Reading in some RZR forums, the 570 rear axles are actually beefier than the 800/900 rear axles.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Can someone post a good clear pic of each side of a stock ody, with the rear wheel removed. Or link to them? looking straight at the side about level with the axle area would be good.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
My list FL470 Oddy project is accessible...


Ugh...stupid phone auto-rotate.

EDIT: Corrected.


Attachments:
350_Left_1.jpg
350_Left_1.jpg [ 37.44 KiB | Viewed 1120 times ]
350_Left_2.jpg
350_Left_2.jpg [ 36.77 KiB | Viewed 1120 times ]
350_Right_1.jpg
350_Right_1.jpg [ 35.72 KiB | Viewed 1120 times ]
350_Right_2.jpg
350_Right_2.jpg [ 44.85 KiB | Viewed 1120 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 11:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:56 pm
Posts: 550
It just hit me, why not get rid of that top link and put 1 on the bottom that wont allow that to fold over and ruin the shock?? I will be looking into that forsure! It may bind with one on top andf 1 on the bottom but I kinda doubt it will bind with 1 on the bottom or 2 maybe


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Dave-Co wrote:
It just hit me, why not get rid of that top link and put 1 on the bottom that wont allow that to fold over and ruin the shock?? I will be looking into that forsure! It may bind with one on top andf 1 on the bottom but I kinda doubt it will bind with 1 on the bottom or 2 maybe


I think that's where the lower rear 3rd link came into play. Need something on the lower/rear to keep the whole trailing arm assy from hinging on the upper-link and front link and swinging down. Besides the axle, there's nothing else supporting the trailing arm assy from plunging in.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 11:49 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Here are a couple more examples of 4 & 5 link rear trailing buggy setups...


Attachments:
File comment: Arctic Cat Wildcat 1000
AC WC 1000 Rear 5Link.jpg
AC WC 1000 Rear 5Link.jpg [ 61.98 KiB | Viewed 1080 times ]
File comment: Someone's CAD design that I thought was kinda' cool...
Superboard hubs.jpg
Superboard hubs.jpg [ 55.71 KiB | Viewed 1080 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 4:28 pm
Posts: 887
I wouldn't worry about building links with the only goal in mind to save shocks. If it was a long travel upgrade it would make more sense. Lot of work just to save a shock. Poor design maybe but it's a symptom of the real problems. Poor quality replacement U joints. Maybe weak shocks.

I'm very heavy for these buggies. As big of a guy that you could stuff in one. I had 4 u joints fail on me on separate occasions and only bent a stock shock 1 time. All due to those U joints with grease zerks. Maybe the works shocks bend easier. With a smaller operator you might have even got away with it that 1 time. In my opinion the best "shock saver" that money could buy would be finding a clean set of OEM axles and just run the piss out it.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2015 10:11 am
Posts: 474
Use a rod for 7/16 hiems about 8 to 8.5 minus hiems or roughly 10 inches overall and make mounts to weld on rear lower frame and a mount that bolts to carrier and extends off back of carrier parallel to axle


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
atcdude123 wrote:
I wouldn't worry about building links with the only goal in mind to save shocks. If it was a long travel upgrade it would make more sense. Lot of work just to save a shock. Poor design maybe but it's a symptom of the real problems. Poor quality replacement U joints. Maybe weak shocks.

I'm very heavy for these buggies. As big of a guy that you could stuff in one. I had 4 u joints fail on me on separate occasions and only bent a stock shock 1 time. All due to those U joints with grease zerks. Maybe the works shocks bend easier. With a smaller operator you might have even got away with it that 1 time. In my opinion the best "shock saver" that money could buy would be finding a clean set of OEM axles and just run the piss out it.


The works shocks don't bend, THEY SNAP! LOL :shock:

I managed to snap the threaded end of the shaft when my trailing arm heim joint let go. The Fox Air's 2.0 are a much better designed shock as they have Heim joints both top and bottom. The only problem with the Fox Air's is they do not have a spring to support the weight of the Ody and the rider. This must be adjusted with nitrogen picture.

I would still like to see somebody design and sell a simple bolt on hard third link as a shock saver. Anyone who has ever has to load an FL350 Ody into the back of a truck with a broken shock, U joint or heim joint will appreciate it!

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Randman wrote:
atcdude123 wrote:

This must be adjusted with nitrogen picture.

Rand


Nitrogen Picture?.That is awesome technology Rand.
So all I need to do is "picture of N- swipe" the shock,like they do with a credit card?
Wow no need for me now to buy any N Bottles/Kit.
Thanks Mate!Image


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 12:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2013 4:28 pm
Posts: 887
Randman wrote:
atcdude123 wrote:
I wouldn't worry about building links with the only goal in mind to save shocks. If it was a long travel upgrade it would make more sense. Lot of work just to save a shock. Poor design maybe but it's a symptom of the real problems. Poor quality replacement U joints. Maybe weak shocks.

I'm very heavy for these buggies. As big of a guy that you could stuff in one. I had 4 u joints fail on me on separate occasions and only bent a stock shock 1 time. All due to those U joints with grease zerks. Maybe the works shocks bend easier. With a smaller operator you might have even got away with it that 1 time. In my opinion the best "shock saver" that money could buy would be finding a clean set of OEM axles and just run the piss out it.


The works shocks don't bend, THEY SNAP! LOL :shock:

I managed to snap the threaded end of the shaft when my trailing arm heim joint let go. The Fox Air's 2.0 are a much better designed shock as they have Heim joints both top and bottom. The only problem with the Fox Air's is they do not have a spring to support the weight of the Ody and the rider. This must be adjusted with nitrogen picture.

I would still like to see somebody design and sell a simple bolt on hard third link as a shock saver. Anyone who has ever has to load an FL350 Ody into the back of a truck with a broken shock, U joint or heim joint will appreciate it!

Rand


Well that sucks. I still think your strap material or the chain idea is cheap and effective but if a guy really wants a solid link it I'm sure it could be done. Would just have to figure out the cost of materials and someone's time to make the stuff. Speedchaser posted about it in another thread. This would be the right way to do it. Someone would just have to make brackets that accomplish the same thing that are bolt on and make the the links to sell with it. Maybe as a kit. Speed already did the homework.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15245


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