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Brake bleeding issues
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15259		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  beauflowers [ Sun Feb 01, 2015 2:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Brake bleeding issues
I'm working on my FL350 and I have replaced the soft rear line and brake pads. I was going to build stainless lines for the front but decide that the front had good pressure and stopping power so I didn't do anything with them other than take the soft lines off and drain the whole brake system. I've put everything back on and tried to bleed the front and rear and I get nothing. I was thinking that maybe with system being dry for a couple of months that the seals in the master dryer and cracked so I rebuilt the master and still nothing.
I get good pressure coming out of the master before I connect the two hard lines then I loose pressure.
I've tried vacuum bleeding, Gravity bleeding, witch it won't do even with the hard lines disconnected.
Any help with this would be great
Author:  liduno [ Sun Feb 01, 2015 4:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Brake bleeding issues
beauflowers wrote:
I'm working on my FL350 and I have replaced the soft rear line and brake pads. I was going to build stainless lines for the front but decide that the front had good pressure and stopping power so I didn't do anything with them other than take the soft lines off and drain the whole brake system. I've put everything back on and tried to bleed the front and rear and I get nothing. I was thinking that maybe with system being dry for a couple of months that the seals in the master dryer and cracked so I rebuilt the master and still nothing.
I get good pressure coming out of the master before I connect the two hard lines then I loose pressure.
I've tried vacuum bleeding, Gravity bleeding, witch it won't do even with the hard lines disconnected.
Any help with this would be great
Stick a clear hose over the bleeder valve, leave the valve open, leave the cap off the master so you can keep it full, pump away.
Loop the hose over the tire, that way air can rise up the hose but fluid will stay down. When you have no more air bubbles rising up in the hose you should be good to go.
Author:  DMoneyAllstar [ Wed Feb 04, 2015 11:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Brake bleeding issues
Ditch the rubber lines. They're swelled and dirty on the inside, and brittle on the outside. I used a vac and everything and couldn't not draw air.

Crimps in the 25yr old lines weren't meant to last forever, either.

Old lines can also acquire moisture especially if they've been sitting on a shelf in the shop.

You can try to gravity bleed the lines.

Very important you never cavitate the master cyl piston with an empty resevoir.

Also remember brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid and has thermal properties, meaning it will be more viscous when very cold or when lines are very cold. And the rubber seals won't be as flexible when very cold.

Use the clear tube on the bleed screw.

Make sure the brake handle has good motion. Lack of motion can mean the adjustments are off, or the master cyl needs rebuilt. You might be moving the handle.all the in and out, but the master may only be doing 1/4 motion.
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