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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:49 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
tkeagle wrote:
Thanks Randy. And yes, you was right on all accounts. That's what I was asking.
I'm pretty sure the reeds have been upgraded, just by the stickers that are on the buggy, when I got it. So I'll see what's in there.

Meant to bring this up in last post and forgot.
Best way for leak down test. Best to seal of exhaust port, intake port, (with the boot). Leave spark plug in, and add the pressure from the pulse tube? Is that correct? And piston need to be all the way down. Correct? Or do I test it twice, one piston all way up, and one all the way down?
Thanks


I use a freeze plug in both the intake boot and the exhaust flange and yes, I use the pulse tube as the spot to pressurize the Engine. As far as the piston being up or down, theoretically it should be at bottom dead center but I have found that it doesn't make a difference at least on a fresh top end bore because the rings haven't seated yet. The pressure within the entire Engine will slowly equalize with the piston at any position.

Rand


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
Guess I'm on a roll. So I'll keep going. :)
What's the recommended amount of pressure to use when doing the leak down? I've seen 6-9. And depends on if you do a vacuum or pressure up the Engine. I have a hand brake pump. Guessing that should work.

Also, I do have my new starter rebuild kit. Might as well do that while I'm in doing this other stuff. But still need to put in the
dip stick vent Mod. I got the bellow ordered. found the ford radiator drain MUTT I need. Now on few other post, it says I need to
seal off the old vent hole. Correct? Found a pic of where it is. But what do I seal it off with? Small screw? thought I saw something like that.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
tkeagle wrote:
Guess I'm on a roll. So I'll keep going. :)
What's the recommended amount of pressure to use when doing the leak down? I've seen 6-9. And depends on if you do a vacuum or pressure up the Engine. I have a hand brake pump. Guessing that should work.

Also, I do have my new starter rebuild kit. Might as well do that while I'm in doing this other stuff. But still need to put in the
dip stick vent Mod. I got the bellow ordered. found the ford radiator drain MUTT I need. Now on few other post, it says I need to
seal off the old vent hole. Correct? Found a pic of where it is. But what do I seal it off with? Small screw? thought I saw something like that.


I use a sheet metal screw with a little silicone on it to make sure it seals and stays in place. You definitely don't want that coming loose next to a flywheel spinning at 7000 rpm!.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 1:42 am 
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Joined: Sat May 30, 2015 1:40 am
Posts: 117
Location: Riverside Ca
Randman wrote:
I use a sheet metal screw with a little silicone on it to make sure it seals and stays in place. You definitely don't want that coming loose next to a flywheel spinning at 7000 rpm!.

rand why not JB weld the metal screw in?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I guess you could if you made sure there was no JB weld left over on the outside of the screw. The vibration of the FL350 Engine is excessive, even with the balancer so I would shy away from using anything that could harden and break off next to flywheel spinning at 7000 plus rpm.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Some Loctite RED #271 would probably work, too.


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