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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2015 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
With the Brakes

I have found the best way for me was to buy some large syringe's Horse size big

Run a 2 foot clear hose to the bleed nipple :-)
over fill the brake fluid res
crack open the nipple and using the syringe to pull through the fluid but watch
the res when it get haft way refill do this till no air comes through the clear
hose.
Then close the Nip pull the rear brake lever just crack the nip till the lever bottoms
out tighten nip release brake lever and repeat 3 or so times.

The front are the same but put 2 large syringe's Horse size big
one on either side and follow as above.

It is a pain to do if you get it right great

BUT before you do the bleeding of the brakes

check all your lever adjustments and per Manual

And the Big one set up the Hand brake (E brake )
so on the second click the rear brake is locked on
then release hand brake.


Also you may need to back the adjustment off as you may get binding

Mine is setup for the first click. But I have brand new pads in
you need to adjust the hand brake (E-brake) regularly

Put is on your prep list before a ride

hope this helps


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:11 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I am running the pod filter triple wrapped without an air box. It works exceptionally well because I run mostly fire roads and sand dunes.

I also don't have to worry much about bottom end as I also run a 102C that doesn't engage until 4000 rpm. When I grab a thumb full of throttle, she shits and gets! Top speed of 64.2 mph!

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 9:25 am 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
I actually have 2 siringe's that I bought for the bleeding for the other buggy. As stated earlier, I had a nightmare with the brakes on the other buggy. I did it both ways. instead of pulling it in from the bleeder, I reversed it and pushed it threw the bleeder into the RES. Some ppl said, no, cant do that, or could mess up the seals in the boster. Other said, no it fine, there is not enough pressure to hurt anything thing. In reverse the idea is to push the bubbles up, instead of sucking them down. Im sure the brake system is different than the other buggy, so again, a learning curve. Anyone confirm if it's ok to the fluid backwards? or not a good idea. really don't matter, can do it either way.
On a brighter note. did notice the previous owner did put a steel brake line in the back. From what I've read, it helps replacing the rubber one.
Still need to get the new brake pads on the back. Any issues with doing that? Or is it pretty striaght forward?

Well, guess I'll just half to play with it, on the air fliter. already looked up a UNI, either for the box, or without, they run around $30.00. Already have the oil. And really havent thought about it, but if running open air filter like I do the other one. Putting some panty hose over the filter would be a good idea. Me running in pasture would save some cleaning down the road. Be suprised how much dead grass gets kicked up.

I knew the 104 does not actually get me to 104. As someone stated, review says, maybe 2 points. But with gas I've got around here, I'll take every point. Just wanted to make sure, if for some reason, I need to use some of my other buggy gas. Add some oil to it. and go. If run out.
I do try to stay away from the Eth. There is a hand full of gas stations that does not mix Eth in their gas. So I stick with them.

I've got the 3way ordered. So to prevent me from playing around with it, I'm going to go ahead, and pull the spun gas tank, and work on getting it on the other buggy while waiting for parts. for once it's going to be nice out over the weekend. I know i'll be tempted to take the 350 out. So pulling the gas tank will stop that. :) Need to take stock gas tank off, and get a good look inside. Make sure it's clean.


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 10:30 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I just want to say it one more time, but in my opinion fuel grade and supply is a big issue for the oddy.
I have had a lot of problems with engines in the past but they run flawlessly now with avgas.
Every man for himself.

Still waiting ChrisV.


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 11:18 am 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
Guess while I'm in limbo at this point. Do have a nother question for future reference. Also with the 350 came with a Non working DigaTron. Most of it is still all connected. Including the EGT sensor going to the exhaust. Engine had a odd sound. Sounded like a Exhaust leak. Found the sensor. Was so lose, could move the brackets freely up and down. I tighten it up, best I could. But not sure how well the sensor is sealed in and on the exhaust. I was thinking of taking off the pipe, and remove sensor. And patch the hole. But now wondering if would be benifical to get a replacement gage. And use the sensors already attached. I've got a Trail Tech on my other buggy. Really do like them. For the price, think they are awsome. The Digatron is about 3x the price. But trail tech don't have sensor for readying exhaust. (from which I understand takes readings, and can figure if your running Good, Rich, or Lean) on the EGT. correct? just wondering if anyone is running this type of gage. And are they worth the money. And can they tell you if you are running rich or lean? I would think if it does, then would be a very good thing.


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:33 pm 
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Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
tkeagle wrote:
But trail tech don't have sensor for readying exhaust. (from which I understand takes readings, and can figure if your running Good, Rich, or Lean) on the EGT. correct? just wondering if anyone is running this type of gage. And are they worth the money. And can they tell you if you are running rich or lean? I would think if it does, then would be a very good thing.


Well sort of.
When I got my first oddy I tried to use the EGT for jetting the carb. I was told by members here that you can't do that. The EGT is used when the Engine is already jetted correctly, and then you make a reference of the temperature it shows on the gauge at that time. Now any deviation in this temp tells you if you are going rich or lean.


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 3:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1430
Location: Norco, CA
canadian oddy wrote:
Still waiting for ChrisV to explain to me how avgas hurts performance (per his comments above).


Av gas is the only thing I run in the off road machines, I'm sure it doesn't perform like Race fuel but I'm too much of a tight wad to spend 2 or 3 times as much, I'll sacrifice a percentage of HP to dollars in my pocket, I can make a couple extra dune trips on what I save.

As far as sacrificing power to the crap pump gas available, I don't think so, I need the higher octane to keep from pinging and detonating.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:51 am 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
Well, got the pump, and 3 way valvle in. Been working on putting it back to stock config. on fuel system. However, having problems getting it to fire. Not sure what it is. I believe I'm not getting fire, by the way it's acting. Seems like I only get about a hr to work on it, then something comes up, and I'm done for the day. I replaced the spark plug with a new one. But havent pulled it yet to see if actually getting fire. At one point I had to pull the coil. However, I did not take note what wire went to what plug on the coil. Wire diagram does not help much. At least the one I have been looking at. It's a 50-50 chance. But would narrow down what I need to do each time. Someone know off hand which wire the yellow striped one connects to on the coil? Black or Green?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
First up

silly Question time

1/ Fuel turn on

2/ The Tee valve / check valve fitted the right way

3/ Have you checked that fuel is getting to carby. Remove Fuel line from carby and
spark plug lead from spark plug and crank Engine. See if fuel is come through the pump setup

If Fuel is being pumped then reconnect

4/ Pull plug and check Wet or dry

5/ Clean Plug reconnect to spark plug lead Check for Spark.

Then re try


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:39 am 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
Yes. Still need to check all that. I do have clear fuel lines. I do have fuel going to carb. But need to do spark plug checks. Pull starting at this point in the game. Have starter rebuild kit. New coil. And new solenoid on order. My not need all that. However, do like knowing that the basics are new. Also. Have a new choke ordered. No cable hook up. Manual pull choke. I had issues with the choke earlier if it was completely closed or not. And was wondering if it still sticking at one point. Hoping this will take care of it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
a few more things to throw out there while I'm doing this. The fuel pump I took off was a Mikuni. Looked like the same I bought. However, on the back of the new one there was a S51 stamp on it. On the old one was S52 stamp on the back. Bigger model?

Looked at diagram. How should I mount the new fuel pump? Do I need to try to keep it same hight as gas tank, Lower? or does it matter. And not sure, but I thought I read someone saying the pump needs to be mounted vertical, rather than mounted flat on gas tank, as was the stock one. This correct? Does it matter? Same question goes for the 3 way valve. does it need to be lower than the pump? or does it matter? This all may not matter, but want to make sure before I start trying to mount everything. and tighten it up.

Still, looking if I can figure out what wire goes to where on the coil. So if anyone knows, it would help.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Pump and or three way valve don't need to be mounted in any specific configuration (horizontal or vertical) just as long as they are mounted securely.

If you don't get an answer by this evening on the coil wiring, I will look at mine when I get home tonight.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Standing at the rear of the Ody with the coil spades facing away from you just as the coil would be placed in its rubber mount, green left side black right side.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:11 am 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
I'm just having a hell of a time. To check the spark really need an extra hand. And for some reason everyone is gone when I need them. I can confirm that gas is getting to carb. But after that, not sure where it goes. Checked the spark plug twice, after pulling on it 3-4 times. I guess gas is getting to the plug, But just barely. I thought more gas would be pumped into it. Really had to look at it to see gas on it.
But again, still need to check the spark. So really up in the air until that is done as well.
Thx, that will help. not sure how it sitting now, but at least will give me idea what plug goes to what wire.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:46 am 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
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I know this is something that should not be done often. But over the weekend, I'm going to really get into it, and get it running again. Away to check the gas flow. Meaning if gas is getting there. Is to give it a shot of starter fluid. I've done it small 4 strokes, to rule out certain issues in the past. If it gives some sort of hickup, then good chance its a fuel issue. Now being a 2 stroke. could this dmg anything.??? I'm not going to try and start it. Meaning keep shooting starter fluid in it keep it running. Just give it a shot, and see if it responds. I wouldn't think it would hurt anything. But again hense the post. (newbie.) :).
Or is there something else I can use, with same effect, but safer?

Thoughts?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
To check your spark, remove the spark plug and plug it back into the plug wire. Touch the plug threads to the fins of the head and pull the starter rope. You should be able to see a spark.

Instead of using starter fluid, pour a little 2 stroke mixed gas down the spark plug hole, reinstall the plug and give it a go.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
OK, I can try that instead of starter fluid.
On checking the spark. That is the way I do it. However, pull starting takes almost everything I have. Use both hands and use my body in the pull. not sure if can keep my body and head in a postion that I could keep an eye on the spark plug. I can try. But just easier if have someone else there and watch it, while I'm pulling.

Cant wait until rebuild kit get here. Think I wouldn't be so sore in the mornings. :)
I've read that some ppl say the front clutch needs to be removed to pull the starter. Sounds like alot of work just to pull a starter. Is this correct?
I know the dip stick needs to be vented. Been told to drill a hole in top of stick. Thread a nipple in it. Then attach a hose to it, and just run it up to frame. the cap on the stick isn't very big. So the hole would half to be pretty small. What size of drill hole can I get away with?

Been also suggested to get a threaded plug from a type of truck radiator. I'll half to go back and look at make, and what year. But guess it fits perfect. But drill a hole in that rather then putting a hole in the dipstick. Anyone do it that way?

Or is it just as safe to run the oil lvl on the lower end of the dipstick?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Do it without the spark plug in the head. This takes so little effort that a five year old could pull the cord.

The truck radiator plug is the modification that I developed way back when. The truck is a Ford F150 1999 vintage. You can't just run a line up to the frame somewhere. If you do so, it will spew oil all over the place and your balancer will seize. You need to run a bellows on the end of the hose.

Search it here on the site, there are different ways to skin a cat.

Rand


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 22, 2015 12:37 pm
Posts: 23
Hello again. Been busy with other things this summer. Had to put a hold on the 350 for while. But was still playing with the 3206 Yerfdog. Kids had a blast with it this summer. Kept wishing had the 350 going. But guess one thing at a time. First time got the YD, for the entire summer. And did find some weak spots. Got to do some repairs, and few upgrades in few places. Was rolled Twice. (no one hurt. 5points worked like they should). Broke reverse cable, because bolt that supports the reverse box, came out, and busted the bracket. Drivers seat broke away from 3 of the 4 mounting brackets. Front fenders are off now, because the mounts busted after being rolled. Exhaust mounting bracket busted once. Back cross member on the spider box, cracked through. Put new Spun gas tank in back. Still running, and will be playing with buggy for little while longer, before start working on the minor repairs and upgrades this winter.
Here small video of kids playing with the Yerfdog. Not a 350 for sure. But a good match for the kids. Next year, will have video of kids and I side by side. :).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bma1kvo ... e=youtu.be

Back to the FL 350....
I'm pretty sure I will not have access to a shop like I did last year. :(.
So that could leave a kink in my plans working on the 350. I'm thinking this might be an option. If can find a good place to do so.
One main thing I need is to get the Engine running good and stable. 2nd, need brakes working well. at least as good can get. Have no
brakes now.
If I can get those 2 things taken care of, the rest I should be able to take care of.
I live in Central Kansas. There is really no place, (that I know of) that I can take the 350, and have the work I would like done. Again, pretty much just the Engine, Drive train, and Brakes.
Anyone know a place that I can take to, to get this work done? Or someone that does this on their spare time. Or full time. Don't care.
I don't mind paying for. Just don't want to over pay. I don't mind driving, and dropping it off, and picking it back up.

Something I'm looking into, and might be at end of year, or first of year, before can do. But something I truly would like to explore.
Anyone got any idea's or suggestions?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:26 am 
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Or even a place can send the Engine. Have a good looking over. Do any repairs, or upgrades needed. Maybe even add water cool. Put a good Carb on it. Do some Bench runs with it, and send it back. Even that would help out a lot.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
From the sounds of this thread you have some mechanical ability so that's good but not time, that's bad.
I my opinion I would start from scratch or you are just gona get frustrated. If you can't find someone near you to do the work you are going to have to do it yourself and it sounds like you can. Here is my list:
1) do a pressure and vacuum test on the Engine.
2) do a rebuild of that starter
3) do a flow test on the fuel pump (about 4.5 to 5 oz in ten seconds)
4) check your fuel tank -- is it rusty ?? Are the pickup tubes clean inside ??
5) do a complete check on your carb -- float height, jets clean, passages clean ??
6) now worry about getting spark
7) last but not least do the vent mod (use the search box above - lots of threads on it)
8) run the proper octane fuel or it will cost you a piston
9) oil mix -- always an argument point -- I think most of the guys run 32 or 35/1 on air cooled.
I would do these in order because you need the starter to check fuel flow rate.
These things can be real frustrating and expensive if you don't get it right.
On a side note those are very lucky kids. When I was a kid I had no dunebuggy or dirt bike unless I got a job and bought one. I wanted a new peddle bike once and dad told me to get a job. I did, I was 14. Must be the German way I guess.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 9:49 am 
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I've been debating on if should just have someone else to the work. I really want to learn it myself. When I started on the Yerfdog, I had no clue how do anything with it. With the help of you tube, forums, and trial and error. There's pretty much nothing I cant do myself on the Yerfdog. However, that buggy is very cheap in repairs and parts compared to the Odyssey. Just don't want to do a mistake on the Engine, then half to look for a different one. NOT CHEAP. But can buy a brand new one on the other buggy, for around $300.00 Shipped. GY6 150cc Engine.
Cant say it's Lack of time. But more, a good place to give me room to do it. And environment. The shed I have, leaks like crazy through the roof. No door. So winter weather could put a toll on things, if have stuff disassemble. (Concern on the Engine.)
However, guess I could always talk to my friend, and see if can at least keep the Engine in the shop, while I work on it. Rather then keeping the entire buggy.
Really thought I would be able to use his shop again this year. But he's going to have a lot of work this winter, and he's going to need all the room he has.
Having tons of room. Stacks of tools. Metric and Standard. Welder, Grinders, cutting wheels, Bandsaw, drill press, compressions, impact wrenches, lifts, about anything you need in one location. Now half to work on it, in one car shed, and walking a few blocks to his shop, to get tools I might not have. Going to SUCK!!
Will take twice as long on anything that needs to be done, just because don't have the tools I'll need on hand. But guess cant bitch. Most ppl don't have access to half of what I have open rain to.
Would love just to strip it down to frame, and go through it. Might just half to take a weekend, seal the roof. Can put a tarp on the door. Do some major cleaning out. Barrow, or buy some extra lights. If all that done, then it's possible I could strip it down during the winter. It's a rental. So anything I'm going to do, going to cost little to nothing.

My last issue, I took the gravity fed spun tank off. Bought a new fuel pump. And hooked it back up to stock gas tank. Ever since I did that, I cant get it to fire up. (before, that was not an issue) I've double check the lines to Pump, carb, and tank. Looks like everything hooked up good. Have clear hose. Looks like gas getting to carb. But if enough, cant say. I was told by someone. Cant remember who, but they brought up that the pulse pump in the Engine could not be working right. Might need replaced.
Can anyone confirm that, this could be the problem? And is there a way to test it?
Just for giggles, I'm going to hook up a temp gravity tank. Old one from other buggy. And see if it will fire up again. If it does, than clearly have issues with gas getting to carb.
I'll do as you suggest. I do need to go through the Engine. See if needs anything. Pressure test I did on it, was good. But haven't done leak test yet.
I'm ready to get started on it. But will wait a little longer until temps during the day go down a little more.

Kids had a really good time. But to be honest, the buggy was as much for me, as was for kids. But since I've got the Odyssey. That's the one I want!!!!
And the kids are really good help. They might be a bigger help this year. They going to learn the tools. And go running across the street to get what I need. :).

My daughter and I spend all afternoon and part of the night, sanding and painting the floor boards with epoxy paint. The epoxy did stick pretty good. Just a few places where we went to bare metal, and half to patch up from the summer use.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 12:50 pm 
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OK, weather is cooling down. And would like to do a leak down test on Engine. I finally found some youtube videos that helped out.
And do have a better idea how a 2 stroke Engine works. Very different than a 4 stroke.
My first question, and thought is about the reeds. Seems as if they are a major factor in proper gas/oil mixture for the Engine.
I've seen many different types. Somewhere I have seen it, but cant find it. Depending on if you want lower torque, or top speed, your reed
and be a factor in that.
I'm not looking for all out top speed. Rather have more power on the lower end. What type, or kind of reed would follow that? I've seen reeds have different # of reeds in them. And that can play a factor? Lower reeds, lower end? Higher reeds, better top end? That right?

I'm actually looking forward to getting into the Engine more now. Rather then shipping it off somewhere. It's a pump/vacuum as much as it's a Engine correct? And why leak down test are needed.??
And thanks to a link given to me, from youtube, I understand, and can clean the clutches, with some what painless effort. ;).
Still not ready to get into brakes yet. But one thing at a time. I have a starter rebuild kit, that I'm going to work on as well. Tired of pulling my arm off, every time I want to start it.

Thoughts or suggestions for Reeds, for the lower end torque side of the Engine?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 1:51 pm 
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Location: Carson City NV
My first question, and thought is about the reeds. Seems as if they are a major factor in proper gas/oil mixture for the Engine.

Reeds are a check valve which help to prevent the gas/fuel mixture from traveling backwards through the carburetor during the compression stroke. During the compression stroke of the Engine, the piston is trying to compress the gas/oil mixture into the top of the cylinder. At the beginning of the compression stroke, as the piston is compressing the gas/oil mixture, the compressed mixture is going to take the least path of resistance. If the reeds are not closing properly during the initial piston travel of the compression stroke, that least path of resistance is backwards through the reeds and back into the carburetor. This makes for a lousy running Engine as not all of the fuel charge is not available for burning.

I'm not looking for all out top speed. Rather have more power on the lower end. What type, or kind of reed would follow that? I've seen reeds have different # of reeds in them. And that can play a factor? Lower reeds, lower end? Higher reeds, better top end? That right?

When you are saying lower reeds, I am guessing that you are meaning reeds with either one or 2 pedals. When you are saying higher reeds, I am also guessing you are speaking of reeds with numerous pedals. If so then yes you are correct.

For good low end power I would suggest the good old stock factory Ody metal reeds.

Rand


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:09 am 
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Thanks Randy. And yes, you was right on all accounts. That's what I was asking.
I'm pretty sure the reeds have been upgraded, just by the stickers that are on the buggy, when I got it. So I'll see what's in there.

Meant to bring this up in last post and forgot.
Best way for leak down test. Best to seal of exhaust port, intake port, (with the boot). Leave spark plug in, and add the pressure from the pulse tube? Is that correct? And piston need to be all the way down. Correct? Or do I test it twice, one piston all way up, and one all the way down?
Thanks


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