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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
So this is the start of my build project. I picked up this Odyssey last summer. There is another thread about that, but I wanted to make one to follow the build process. I bought the FL350 as a roller only, and a transmission. I plan to swap in a Farr Offroad Rotax 583 Electric Start kit, so I was no concerned about the stock Engine missing. My plan is to fit the Engine, assemble and get it running, then disassemble and get everything powdercoated.

I got the Odyssey into the work bay in the garage this afternoon. Got it onto jack stands. This gave me the opportunity to roll the wheels in the air, and upon doing that I discovered that all 4 wheels are bent to some extent. I knew I had to replace one wheel for sure, as it was toast, but was hoping to keep the front two as they are bead lock rims. Bent as well, so in the recycle bin they will go. All the hubs spin nice without any noise, so that was a good thing. The front brakes also have no pressure, it feels like cable issue to the master cylinder. The rear shocks are either very stiff, or frozen. The clutch spring on the driven clutch looks a little odd, unsure if its broke or not? My roll cage is welded to the lower chassis, unlike the factory bolt on one. I am unsure of how I feel about this. I pulled some measurements on it today, and it appears to be straight. I ordered a battery tray(missing) and set of High/Low LED headlights. I need to figure out what I want to do for a seat as well. I like the Beard Torque seat, but am unsure if it will fit. I also thought about a RZR or UTV seat.

Anyone with any input or wants to chime in please do so. I will update this thread with progress until the build is done.

Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5540
Location: New Jersey
Upper cage is unlike any I have seen before- any idea on where it was made? I remember back in the day Honda had made a upper cage that was a touch different, but not like yours.
Is the lower frame a stock Ody frame oR has that been altered in any form?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 11:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 464
The nerf bars look like tripe e. The added on part to the nose looks similiar to a triple e frame as well. See the pics. It has two bars that come down from the cage then turn in at the nose.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
The lower chassis is stock, until you hit the front bumper/start of the roll cage area. I wish I knew more about the history of the machine. I purchased it from a guy about 5 miles from my house. He was going to modify it and make it electric. There are two old registration stickers on the machine, one from California in 93, the other from Utah in 98. I don't think it has been driven in a long time, as the tires are badly weather cracked. Due to the way the cage is made in the front, I am unsure if I can get the foot tub out. Anyone have any ideas or experience on this?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
fitztool wrote:
The lower chassis is stock, until you hit the front bumper/start of the roll cage area. I wish I knew more about the history of the machine. I purchased it from a guy about 5 miles from my house. He was going to modify it and make it electric. There are two old registration stickers on the machine, one from California in 93, the other from Utah in 98. I don't think it has been driven in a long time, as the tires are badly weather cracked. Due to the way the cage is made in the front, I am unsure if I can get the foot tub out. Anyone have any ideas or experience on this?


In my opinion the foot tub must come out because they would have had to remove it to do the welding.
One thing I do know is that the steering column has to come out first to remove the tub. I know this because I am currently doing a complete rebuild of my spare oddy from ground up.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 7:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
you don't need to take the tub out to do the welding, i did both my 350 long travel front conversions without removing the foot tub

but i would assume that it will come out


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Anyone know if the Douglass Redline Wheels that are on chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports website are still in production? I stopped by my local Honda dealer today to see what they had for wheels, and there was none that fit. Or, if anyone knows of a aftermarket wheel that fits well I am open to options.

Thanks for all the info so far!

Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
fitztool wrote:
Anyone know if the Douglass Redline Wheels that are on chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports website are still in production? I stopped by my local Honda dealer today to see what they had for wheels, and there was none that fit. Or, if anyone knows of a aftermarket wheel that fits well I am open to options.

Thanks for all the info so far!

Mark


I believe Douglas makes wheels for our oddies: http://www.douglaswheel.com/catalog


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Well,

I pulled the trigger and bought the Farr-Offroad Electric Start Rotax kit. this morning. My wallet's fun account is empty for the next few weeks. However, I am really looking forward to a bolt in kit that is ready to go, and not having to source a sled and modify everything.

I will keep you guys updated!

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2014
Location: St. John, Washington
Rockymountainatvmc.com is where I buy most.my tires and wheels. Best shipping price and speed for something that lwrge


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Made a little progress the last few days. Purchased a battery tray and a set of 4 factory wheels from evilbay. Discovered the rear battery tray mount is bent, so I'll have to pull that back. High of 4 here today, so no plans to venture to the garage.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 242
Location: Newport Mi
fitztool wrote:
Well,

I pulled the trigger and bought the Farr-Offroad Electric Start Rotax kit. this morning. My wallet's fun account is empty for the next few weeks. However, I am really looking forward to a bolt in kit that is ready to go, and not having to source a sled and modify everything.

I will keep you guys updated!

Thanks!


Make sure to weld gussets in on that frame bottom cradle they tend to crack under the rotax torque and power that's why my projects on hold im to lazy to grind and reinforce so i spend time on my stock oddy lmao


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3423
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
They crack on STOCK Odys,I had one that cracked 75.22% around the bottom LHS tube.
Caught it just in time and welded it up with gussets,hate to think of what damage/carnage coulda happened.
My mullet coulda got frayed...and ain't in$ured! :shock:
So def reinforcement is in order with Rotax mods.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 2:13 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 242
Location: Newport Mi
bugeye59 wrote:
They crack on STOCK Odys,I had one that cracked 75% around the bottom LHS tube.
Caught it just in time and welded it up with gussets,hate to think of what damage/carnage coulda happened.
So def reinforcement is in order with Rotax mods.


O wow haven't seen this on a stock one yet


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 6:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 664
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
My Oddy cracked the frame twice so I added a extra brace, mine are stock.

The other frame is getting the same.

see second last pic hair line crack.

last pic big crack other side this time

yeoddy


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File comment: See the hair line crack next to the weld
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File comment: Second time on the other side
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3423
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
There's nothing worse than an unexpectant recalcitrant crack! Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 242
Location: Newport Mi
bugeye59 wrote:
There's nothing worse than an unexpectant recalcitrant crack! Image

Agreed I gotta check my stocker oddy


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 5:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Where do you guys add gussets? Where the tubes meet each other? Triangle braces?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 242
Location: Newport Mi
fitztool wrote:
Where do you guys add gussets? Where the tubes meet each other? Triangle braces?


Yes (L) style or triangle style where everything meets and look for other damage to fix and strengthen


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Well I made a little progress in the garage last night before my fingers froze as it was a high of 2 by me yesterday.

-LED lights came in, got them mounted in the tabs.
-Battery Box came from the big internet auction site. Got it mounted, I have some fixing to do to the rear mount.
-Found a Autometer Water Temp and Voltage gauge in the garage. I plan to mount these on the first bar in front of the steering yolk. I need to order some gauge cups yet.

I plan to make some gussets Saturday AM and tack them in place, as long as it gets in the 20's.

Mark


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2233
Location: East Peoria IL
Project is coming along well. Enjoy watching it. Christmas is over - get that tree stand put up. :-) Its funny how we will just sit things down instead of putting it up. I'm so guilty of it. I tell myself just put it up the first time and you won't have to move it later. Sometimes I listen, most of the time I don't.

Make sure you get things good and clean when you weld. I would even try cutting some tubing, making some sort of saddle and then weld the gussets in.

Something like this, but cut to fit the joining tubes, then welded around the perimeter.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 242
Location: Newport Mi
Cool its comin along well


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Thanks for the support and help so far! I enjoy doing projects like this. I do not have much I plan to do on it this weekend. Maybe clean the frame some. Waiting at this point for the Farr kit to ship out. Once I get the Engine in, I can get the harness done, get some gussets and support welded in, and get it ready to go for powdercoating.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Well guys, 2 out of 3 Boxes from Emmanuel came today! I'm pretty excited to open them after work tonight!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 11:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:33 pm
Posts: 56
Well here it is! Everything was packaged very well from Emmanuel. motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), exhaust, everything look awesome! Tons of small support parts included as well. Hoping to start the install this weekend if it gets above freezing.


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