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 Post subject: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
I have begun a new FL350 build. Last January I treated myself to a birthday present and purchased a rotax 670 kit from farr-offroad with both pull and e-start. I received all the parts at the end of September and have slowly been chipping away on it. I will be using the parts FL350 that I purchased for $550 back in August 2016.

I just wanted to get this thread kicked off as I am hoping it will keep me motivated with the completion of it. I will post as much detail as I can with this build. Here are some photos of the progress I have made thus far but I will start at the beginning the next post.

Cheers, Curtis :-)

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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2018 2:03 pm
Posts: 549
Location: Jerseydale, CA
Wow!

How exciting. How much did the kit come to?


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
one thing you might want to look at is putting a little more rake in to that front suspension. should help with stability and self centering steering. I am mostly like going to redo mine over the winter.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Garemie wrote:
Wow!

How exciting. How much did the kit come to?


I purchased the rotax kit on ebay for $1600. I then added the e-start start and radiator kit for an additional $450.

I'm not sure what is going on with Farr (Emmanuel) but the website has changed and I hear he is not taking orders at this time. I asked him to contact me when he was selling the suspension kits again but I have not heard from him thus far. This kit is top notch and I hope he continues production as I want to purchase more.

It is very exciting and I am looking forward to the completion of this kit! :-)


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
fully wrote:
one thing you might want to look at is putting a little more rake in to that front suspension. should help with stability and self centering steering. I am mostly like going to redo mine over the winter.


I thought about this and I copied my original suspension setup with this build. My first build controls very well and due to the nature of the setup the front is higher then the rear and creates natural rake unless the suspension is compressed. I am still in the early stages of this build but I am considering power steering as well.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 11:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
power steering would be nice.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 11:18 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
fully wrote:
power steering would be nice.


Site member nitrosport_5 told me that the power steering is the #1 upgrade to the odyssey and Fl400, hands down. Effortless steering for hours on end. I believe him.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 12:48 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:45 am
Posts: 252
Location: South Haven, MI
I have seen a few universal power steering kits and wondered how easy or difficult it would be? There isn’t much room in that steering column, anyone have pics of their power steering if they’ve completed it? If yes, what unit or kit have you guys used? Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 12:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
MGurgone40 wrote:
I have seen a few universal power steering kits and wondered how easy or difficult it would be? There isn’t much room in that steering column, anyone have pics of their power steering if they’ve completed it? If yes, what unit or kit have you guys used? Thanks


I will mimic mine after Methodicals setup, if he is unwilling to build one for me.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
While this thread is mostly for me to document my build I am hoping that it can also help others that maybe installing this kit. Some of this may be common sense for most but you never know. This kit does not come with detailed instructions and you should be somewhat mechanically inclined to install it. I consider myself mechanically inclined and still reached out to others who have installed the kit for advice. I have seen many of these kits listed for sale in the US after people bought it and gave up on it.

I received packages for the kit over a 8 month period. It is important that when you receive a package, you open it and document or keep track of what you received in that package. I would recommend following up with Farr with what you received and are still missing.

The first thing I did was stripped the buggy down to the frame and cut out the rear section to accept the frame mod kit. This is a job in itself. I probably have 20-25hr into the frame mod installation. As you can see below the parts to cut and grind and fit. Then repeat, repeat, repeat till it fits nicely. Note that on the upper frame tube holding the existing shock mount (outside frame), you cut 1/4 below the center line. While on the inside of the frame, you cut on the center line. One thing that I did not do and should have was test fit the rear shock clearance against the mod. When it was all installed, the shock did not touch but was closer than my liking. I went back and notched it out to allow more clearance. This maybe a wasted effort on my part but we haven't made it that far yet.

Once the main part of the Frame mod is welded in place the next steps are as follows. Weld the flat bar along the top of the frame bar to cap off the hole you created. Trim & weld in the 3 corner braces, these are for structural support and will also cap off the holes from the tubes you cut. Last thing is weld in the threaded bung. While the web site states "DRILL THE SHOCK BUNG OUT TO 5/8 ALONG WITH THE SHOCK" I am glad that I checked first because the bung that I received was threaded for the OEM bolt!!! NOT THE 5/8!!!

I also added gussets to strengthen the frame as I did on my other builds.

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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
One thing I forgot to mention is that you need to cut off the rear tab for your tool box to install the frame mod. I was able to save mine and weld it back when the frame mod was in place.

You will have to cut off other tabs on your frame / roll cage. See below.

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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1779
Location: Ma
Thoughtful posting to help others and very nice work thus far..... keep it coming


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 11:14 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
Nice work and I'm sure future builders will appreciate this thread :-)


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2015 7:23 am
Posts: 420
Location: Pennsylvania
CurtisR401 wrote:
MGurgone40 wrote:
I have seen a few universal power steering kits and wondered how easy or difficult it would be? There isn’t much room in that steering column, anyone have pics of their power steering if they’ve completed it? If yes, what unit or kit have you guys used? Thanks


I will mimic mine after Methodicals setup, if he is unwilling to build one for me.


Curtis hit me up...Power Steering it is!


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
methodical wrote:
CurtisR401 wrote:
MGurgone40 wrote:
I have seen a few universal power steering kits and wondered how easy or difficult it would be? There isn’t much room in that steering column, anyone have pics of their power steering if they’ve completed it? If yes, what unit or kit have you guys used? Thanks


I will mimic mine after Methodicals setup, if he is unwilling to build one for me.


Curtis hit me up...Power Steering it is!


Your the man! I will be in contact soon.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 12:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
Definitely gonna watch this power steering. Would be sweet. And my buddy does have a wrecked can am 1000 with PS. Might have to get it from him


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2019 9:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
To get back to this thread....

When you receive the Farr Engine kit. Some for the Engine components do not come installed. It is not difficult to install them but they do need to be put on the Engine. For all these components I torques them to 9ft/lb as we are installing in aluminium. Clutch and crank nut torques are listed below.

1. Water pump Cover / Starter & bracket. You only have 2 positions when mounting the starter, you can rotate it 180deg and re-bolt if if you would like to. I choose to have the starter cable lug on the bottom to keep the cable away from the hot exhaust. Others (meegusmaster) with this kit have also noted that the starter can get heat soaked from being so close to the exhaust and stop working while out on a ride. It was suggested to make a heat shield over the starter to prevent this. That is what I plan on doing w reflective heat tape.

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2. Rotary valve cover / oil injection block off plate. The cover bolts right up with a gasket. Then you use the block off plate where the oil injection would normally mount. I used Permatex hi-temp RTV for the block off plate as a gasket is not included. Oil injection is not used on this kit and you need to premix your gas. Note: The rotary valve covers do not all look the same depending on the year and model of the Engine.

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3. Power valves. These bolt right up with a gasket. The valve itself is labeled top so you cant really mess this up. I have not installed the covers yet and there seems to be some adjustment to these as well. I will elaborate on that further in the thread.

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4. Coolant block off, Coolant outlet, and temp sensor. These bolt right up with a gasket. The temp sensor I am using is to control my radiator fan. I purchased a adjustable fan controller by manufacture Mishimoto. Part# MMFAN-CNTRL-U18NPT

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5. You will also need to install the clutch (torqued to 70 ft/lb). My kit did not include the clutch bolt so you may need to purchase this separately.

6. You need to install the armature plate, stator, pick-up, magneto, flywheel, and starter pulley. The crank nut is to be torqued to 77 ft/lb. I didn't take photos of this installation but here is a diagram to help. I included the pull start option with my kit so you need to install the pull start assembly. Easy 4 bolts. Position it so the rope eyelet is facing the existing pull start handle location.

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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2019 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2018 2:03 pm
Posts: 549
Location: Jerseydale, CA
Is there a way to do the 670 swap without modifying the frame? From what I understand you only need the mod the frame if you want the recoil starter correct?


As a rough estimate, what do you figure this swap has cost you so far? I am thinking down the road I will want to do this to one of my spare oddys just for the sake of doing it.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2019 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Garemie wrote:
Is there a way to do the 670 swap without modifying the frame? From what I understand you only need the mod the frame if you want the recoil starter correct?


As a rough estimate, what do you figure this swap has cost you so far? I am thinking down the road I will want to do this to one of my spare oddys just for the sake of doing it.


That is correct, you do not need to do the frame modification if you use e-start only. I wanted e-start and pull start options.

You will have to cut all the tabs off the frame I pointed out no matter what.

Just the Farr rotax kit and accessories for it were around $2400. That is the cost of a decent complete running FL350 in comparison.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 258
Location: Newport Mi
CurtisR401 wrote:
One thing I forgot to mention is that you need to cut off the rear tab for your tool box to install the frame mod. I was able to save mine and weld it back when the frame mod was in place.

You will have to cut off other tabs on your frame / roll cage. See below.

Attachment:
cage to cut.jpg


Attachment:
tab to cut.jpg


Attachment:
tab to cut #2.jpg

Cut the tabs for what i never had to cut those my mod has been done?


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:49 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:23 am
Posts: 258
Location: Newport Mi
CurtisR401 wrote:
To get back to this thread....

When you receive the Farr Engine kit. Some for the Engine components do not come installed. It is not difficult to install them but they do need to be put on the Engine. For all these components I torques them to 9ft/lb as we are installing in aluminium. Clutch and crank nut torques are listed below.

1. Water pump Cover / Starter & bracket. You only have 2 positions when mounting the starter, you can rotate it 180deg and re-bolt if if you would like to. I choose to have the starter cable lug on the bottom to keep the cable away from the hot exhaust. Others (meegusmaster) with this kit have also noted that the starter can get heat soaked from being so close to the exhaust and stop working while out on a ride. It was suggested to make a heat shield over the starter to prevent this. That is what I plan on doing w reflective heat tape.

Attachment:
IMG_9903.JPG


2. Rotary valve cover / oil injection block off plate. The cover bolts right up with a gasket. Then you use the block off plate where the oil injection would normally mount. I used Permatex hi-temp RTV for the block off plate as a gasket is not included. Oil injection is not used on this kit and you need to premix your gas. Note: The rotary valve covers do not all look the same depending on the year and model of the Engine.

Attachment:
IMG_9901.JPG


3. Power valves. These bolt right up with a gasket. The valve itself is labeled top so you cant really mess this up. I have not installed the covers yet and there seems to be some adjustment to these as well. I will elaborate on that further in the thread.

Attachment:
IMG_9904.JPG


4. Coolant block off, Coolant outlet, and temp sensor. These bolt right up with a gasket. The temp sensor I am using is to control my radiator fan. I purchased a adjustable fan controller by manufacture Mishimoto. Part# MMFAN-CNTRL-U18NPT

Attachment:
IMG_9902.JPG


5. You will also need to install the clutch (torqued to 70 ft/lb). My kit did not include the clutch bolt so you may need to purchase this separately.

6. You need to install the armature plate, stator, pick-up, magneto, flywheel, and starter pulley. The crank nut is to be torqued to 77 ft/lb. I didn't take photos of this installation but here is a diagram to help. I included the pull start option with my kit so you need to install the pull start assembly. Easy 4 bolts. Position it so the rope eyelet is facing the existing pull start handle location.

Attachment:
Capture.JPG




Great log! Also why rid of the oil injection it makes life so easy not having to pre mix, only thing I cannot figure ou is the wiring on mine I need help I have the whole 98 mxz 670 sled harness and a fl350 harness I'd rather extend the stock rotax harness any help thankd


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2019 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
crackerwarrior wrote:
why rid of the oil injection it makes life so easy not having to pre mix

I was wondering this as well. I know lots of people do get rid of it, not having to worry about mix fuel would be nice


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 10:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Crackerworrior,
I cut the tabs off the roll cage so that the Engine will fit properly. It would not fit in the frame with those 2 tabs installed. On the red frame shown in my picture. The Right tab needed to be cut so that the clutch would fit in the frame. The left tab on the frame cross member needed to be cut so the belt would not hit it.

The oil injection is not used in the Farr kit that I purchased. It was not included, so it is not used. With this kit, there is very limited space in the Engine compartment. This kit is well thought out and fits like a glove when all of it is installed. That old saying "fitting 10lb of Sh*t in a 5lb bag" sums it up. I personally don't see this as a concern regardless. You mix your own gas for a stock FL350, so nothing changes.

There has to be a reason for not using the oil injection. I do not know what Emmanuel's reasoning is however. If I had to guess, it is the limited space. He does have an oil reservoir on the gas tank but that is only used to lube the main bearings.

I can help you with the wiring. You will not need the harness from the sled. You will need the FL350 harness. Shoot me a PM for more info on this.




Please note: My Engine installation is specific to the Farr-Offroad Rotax 670cc kit.

There is more than one way to skin a cat so this may be a good guide for others as well.


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 Post subject: Re: Odyssey FL670 Build
PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2019 12:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2019 12:13 pm
Posts: 43
Location: Modesto ca
MGurgone40 wrote:
I have seen a few universal power steering kits and wondered how easy or difficult it would be? There isn’t much room in that steering column, anyone have pics of their power steering if they’ve completed it? If yes, what unit or kit have you guys used? Thanks



Methodicals p/s, easy install. This one has the custom Farr front and rear suspension with the 670. Farr is still building items, he is doing some custom work for me along with another front suspension, its only been a couple of weeks and he texted me its almost done.


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