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 Post subject: help with my 350 project
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
Hi, after 3 years of trying to get parts and no having much time to work in my project, I decide to start putting together one of my oddy's, I want to order some parts and I was wondering if anybody have suggestions on brands or tips, no budget for crazy super expensive showroom machine, just nice clean and reliable is all I want.

1) gaskets brand for top end
2) rebuilt fuel pump or new aftermarket ?

Thanks
JP88


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4558
Location: Carson City NV
Vesrah brand gasket kit for the Engine.

Winderosa rebuild kit for the factory fuel pump

Or

Buy a new Keihin or I believe Polaris pump.

Where is Can Ody when you need him to answer fuel pump questions? :)

Rand


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 8:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Randman wrote:
Vesrah brand gasket kit for the Engine.

Winderosa rebuild kit for the factory fuel pump

Or

Buy a new Keihin or I believe Polaris pump.

Where is Can Ody when you need him to answer fuel pump questions? :)

Rand


I'm right here ---- just woke up and getting ready for work.
We use the polaris pump part #3085275
If you rebuild yours make sure you get about 4 1/2oz in 10sec flow.
Trust me I have a piston collection as proof.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:26 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
Thanks so much for the quick response guys, I'll order the gaskets today and the polaris pump.
please feel free to give me any tips that can help me with my project
Thanks again Rand and Can ody
JP88


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
1) vent mod
2) do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
3) make sure you run sufficient octane fuel or its gona be another rebuild
4) must pass pressure and vacuum test before you even start it


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
thanks can ody, I'll do the air box mod
should I get speedshop metal gaskets for any top end work?
Vesrah gaskets don't come with one?
how to pull drive shaft out, any tips?
thanks
JP88


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
jp88 wrote:
thanks can ody, I'll do the air box mod
should I get speedshop metal gaskets for any top end work?
Vesrah gaskets don't come with one?
how to pull drive shaft out, any tips?
thanks
JP88


vent mod is not the airbox it is a mod for the counter balancer.
Speed has great gaskets, send him a pm
Driveshaft ??


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 3:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
I can't remove drive shaft from transmission, they are loose and have some play but won't come out and the other side broke a bolt, any ideas?
is the yoke connected to the trans what i'm talking about


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 4:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
jp88 wrote:
I can't remove drive shaft from transmission, they are loose and have some play but won't come out and the other side broke a bolt, any ideas?
is the yoke connected to the trans what i'm talking about


If you remove the two bolts on the yoke it should come out easily.
I am at work so no access to my computer right now. Otherwise I could send you a manual if you don't have one.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 11:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Speedchaser here makes all kinds of good stuff for us including metal gaskets, pm him.
It could be that when you broke the bolt it buggered the splines a bit or a piece of the bolt is still in there.

viewtopic.php?f=107&t=7565


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:31 pm
Posts: 5540
Location: New Jersey
Tap that broken bolt out of the hole, the axle shaft should come right off the splined end of the trans with no issue, it does not DO NOT USE PRY BAR AGAIN THE TRANS CASE as leverage,put the bar in where the u joint goes and pull it, it should come right off. Post some pictures please here, the greatly help us assist you!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 10:29 am 
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I'll contact speedchaser for my gaskets and i would try to figure how to post some pictures
also what is the right way to do the transfer case mod/vent?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
jp88 wrote:
I'll contact speedchaser for my gaskets and i would try to figure how to post some pictures
also what is the right way to do the transfer case mod/vent?


When I get home late tonight I'll post some pics of the vent mod.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
here are some pics of my transmission


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
jp88 wrote:
here are some pics of my transmission


Yup it ain't coming apart with that bolt in there. It has to come out because there is a groove in the shaft that the bolt sits in.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:30 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I'm not sure if you are aware but from the looks of it it seems you took the head of the bolt off and thought it would come out but that is not the case. The bolt is actually threaded into the u-joint and a lock nut is then threaded onto the exposed threads of the bolt.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
you are right can ody, the head broke off, so now is not coming out, my friend said he would try to weld a nut on top and then apply heat to it and slowly try to get it out. The other side is loose but doesn't come out eitheir


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2014
Location: St. John, Washington
That should do the trick to get the bolt out. Just be careful not to destroy that axle. You'd think they were gold plated if you looked up the prices!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 12:36 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here is where you can get a FREE pdf manual for the fl350.
https://oddatv.com/wp-content/uploads/2 ... -Parts.pdf


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 2:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Ok here is a thread for the vent mod.
It gets off topic a few times but has a tremendous amount of info for you on other poo as well.
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392
Any questions just post.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here are the parts you need for the vent mod.
Here is the part number for the bellows you need: The bellows which works well is a differential bellows from a 2007 Can Am 500CC Outlander part number 705400352.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:34 pm 
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thanks can oddy for the info, I'll order the parts


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
Hi guys, I have more questions
Can I just clean the clutches and would work fine or should I get new ones?
How do you clean all the rusty components like final shaft, secondary shaft, tips or ideas?
what water pump should I use for water cool head
and thermostat?
Thanks
JP


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
jp88 wrote:
Hi guys, I have more questions
Can I just clean the clutches and would work fine or should I get new ones?
How do you clean all the rusty components like final shaft, secondary shaft, tips or ideas?
what water pump should I use for water cool head
and thermostat?
Thanks
JP


1) Clutches: I bet money the trans clutch is probably ok but you never know. I would clean the faces with emory paper and lube the bushing with comet lube or something similar. As for your Engine clutch we don't know what you got. Either way I would take that clutch apart for a complete re&re.
2) Rust drive shafts: leave them alone. Make sure the u joints move freely with no binding rough spots when you try to swivel them. If anything feels wrong then it's probably time for new joints. A broken drive shaft causes a lot of damage at high speed.
3) Water pump: almost all of us run the Bosch pump. Low amp draw and works great. Pic below.
4) I don't run a thermostat. Block off the rad if it runs to cold, call it good enough.
5) Shock savers: build a set. If you lose a drive shaft you wreck your shock. Pic below.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:44 pm
Posts: 15
Thanks again Can oddy I really appreciate your help and tips, I'll order the pump, and work on the clutches.
I'm going to take more pics to show you what I have.
JP


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