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Do you think I be able can finish it?
Poll ended at Thu May 19, 2016 8:54 pm
Yes 67%  67%  [ 4 ]
No 33%  33%  [ 2 ]
Total votes : 6
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
Waiting on a few parts to finish the steering but this is what I am going to use for the steering knuckle. 7/16 Panhard Bar Rod End Kit. I know the upgrade tie rod kits for the FL350 often use the 7/16 so felt confident it will work well. Just need to drill the knuckle out to 7/16. Luckily my cousin was able to machine the spacers for me.

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Also, I receive my gas tank, 8x20 4 Gallon spun aluminum w/baffle. I did end up going with my original plan and put it below the Engine where the OEM Engine would have been. Welded up a bracket that bolts right in and holds the tank. The question I have is, will the pulse fuel pump be able to pull the gas up to the carb? I did purchase a electric 12V low pressure fuel pump (3-5psi) as well. What do you guys think?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 7:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1385
Location: Ma
I don't like the gas tank in that position. The caps can leak/weep with hard riding..
If you roll the gas is going to leak all over the hot exhaust, again with that particular tank and that position.
I await other responses saying above the Engine is bad... But if it's above and you roll the gas leaks down to the ground...
Even the side/original mounting position would be questionable if not for the type of venting Honda employed on their tanks.
I do enjoy your posts and your build, just make sure you are safe.

Regards


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 10:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
I do agree that the fill is not in the best location and in the event that it rolled completely upside down gas would likely drip on / near exhaust. When I purchased it I selected the one that had the offset fill in hopes that it would be enough. I have 2 reasons why I need the tank to stay where it is. The first, if the tank was mounted above the Engine, it would have to be mounted exterior of the cage because of the way the Engine is positioned, is this a safer option? The second, I am trying to keep weight as low as possible because as others have pointed out, it is already a bit "top heavy" because of the way the Engine is positioned. I have been looking to find a gas cap that would allow me to have a remote fill but have been unsuccessful so far. The only other options would be to turn the tank the other direction (still under exhaust), I can still move the tank over an inch or two (further from exhaust), or new tank. I am unsure if any tank would work the way I would need it to be leak / hazard free? Any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1385
Location: Ma
Can something like this be massaged to work....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Fille ... ib&vxp=mtr


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1385
Location: Ma
the above is what I came up with in a 30 second search.... I wonder if there are other options that would allow a remote side mount ..


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
go oddy wrote:
the above is what I came up with in a 30 second search.... I wonder if there are other options that would allow a remote side mount ..


Yes, that is the item that I am looking for and actually just found what I am going to use. This is made for the aluminum tanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161448518132?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I am going to purchase this so that I can fill gas from the side of the FL350 and keep any gas away from the exhaust in the event of a rollover. Thank you for your input, another improvement in my project. :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 1:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 3606
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I don't like that whole set up period.
What about a set up like one of the OZ guys had ?? See pic below.
Engine high/gas tank low or Engine low/gas tank high -- either way its top heavy.
My brother tipped his oddy over twice in one day and he wasn't even trying hard. It's a stock FL350.
I have been on fire in my race car and I don't recommend it. Hope you know what you are doing.
Also that tank seems small. Hope the fuel truck is following you on your rides.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1906
Location: near NJ rider
The exhaust is going to cook whatever you use for a connection between the fill tube and tank.

Where was the tank when you bought it?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
bullnerd wrote:
The exhaust is going to cook whatever you use for a connection between the fill tube and tank.

Where was the tank when you bought it?


The person that I purchased it from had a marine gas tank ratchet strapped to the roof. They also gave me the OEM gas tank but it will not fit back in the OEM location.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:39 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1906
Location: near NJ rider
Can you slide the tank all the way to one side? Like the pass. side, getting the cap away from the exhaust and closer to the frame. Then run the header out the opposite side.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:53 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
Yes, I should be able to move it further over to the passengers side while the header exits the drivers side. I am going to take a better look tonight. How far do you think the fill tube would have to be away from the exhaust to prevent cooking it? I was planning on using a 45 right at the tank to keep it away from the exhaust.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1248
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
Why are you mounting the Engine up there. What's wrong with putting it where the factory Engine goes.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1385
Location: Ma
I'm my reply I was assuming you were modifying the header to be facing up and away from the tank filler.. The headers are easily reshaped if you have a welder.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
The Engine was installed in that location when I bought it. The exhaust currently 90's at the header to the drivers side, that is why I was going to have the fill on the passengers side. I am going to take a better look at everything tonight and see what can be done about the issues I have run into. I'm hoping that I will be able to relocate the Engine where the OEM Engine would have been.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 1906
Location: near NJ rider
That sounds even better. :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 3606
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
bullnerd wrote:
That sounds even better. :-)


Yup agree.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
I was not able to lower the Engine any further than it already was. It is to wide. I would have to modify the frame and I really don't want to do that. You can probably see what I mean in the first picture. I was able to move the tank over to the passengers side as far as I could get it. Here are some better pictures showing the exhaust with the tank over as far over as it goes. I'm not really sure where to go from here...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 3606
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
CurtisR401 wrote:
I was not able to lower the Engine any further than it already was. It is to wide. I would have to modify the frame and I really don't want to do that. You can probably see what I mean in the first picture. I was able to move the tank over to the passengers side as far as I could get it. Here are some better pictures showing the exhaust with the tank over as far over as it goes. I'm not really sure where to go from here...

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Basically from what I have read here on this site, if you want to run that sled Engine I believe you will have to modify that frame.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 3606
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
That's real scary lookin to me. The fumes from that tank may ignite if the seal is not good on that cap.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 3606
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Just curious but it looks like you are spending some money on this so why not go back to a stock Engine if you don't want to modify that frame ??
The stock Engine goes fast enough to break your back :-) .


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
canadian oddy wrote:
That's real scary lookin to me. The fumes from that tank may ignite if the seal is not good on that cap.


What if i welded a new aluminum fill neck to the tank. It would be like In the picture with the cardboard tube. I think I can get it pretty far away from the exhaust. Even seal off that spot completely and make the new fill neck even further over. Is it really just a lost cause?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 3606
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
CurtisR401 wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
That's real scary lookin to me. The fumes from that tank may ignite if the seal is not good on that cap.


What if i welded a new aluminum fill neck to the tank. It would be like In the picture with the cardboard tube. I think I can get it pretty far away from the exhaust. Even seal off that spot completely and make the new fill neck even further over. Is it really just a lost cause?


You have to realize that it is what "YOU" want, not what others like me want. You have to make the decision. We are just here to offer tech support and advice.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1248
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
That looks like a stock 350 exhaust pipe. If so that's not going to work well with that Engine


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2016 8:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 188
Location: Rhode Island
fully wrote:
That looks like a stock 350 exhaust pipe. If so that's not going to work well with that Engine


I don't know what the exhaust goes to or came from. That was the one installed when I bought it. I have invested a lot of time and money into this and I want it to be right at the end of the day. Sure I could purchase and install the OEM Engine but that is some serious cash. Not just the Engine but the exhaust, carb, starter, and the miscellaneous parts and pieces. I read someones post on one of the threads about a CR250 costing 30K when you add up all the parts and I don't want to go down that road. Like they stated in the post, I might be better off looking for another complete machine at that point or even going with one of the Farr-Offroad rotax kits. I'm going to put this project on the back burner for a bit so that I can save up some more money. I do appreciate everyone's support and advice on this.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 8:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 615
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
You have all the bits
check this out and contact him re the add in piece

http://www.farr-offroad.com/framemodinstructions.htm

and

http://www.farr-offroad.com/apps/websto ... ow/2883266
only $100US


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