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Do you think I be able can finish it?
Poll ended at Thu May 19, 2016 8:54 pm
Yes 67%  67%  [ 4 ]
No 33%  33%  [ 2 ]
Total votes : 6
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 Post subject: My FL350R Build / Rescue
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
So back in January I bought my second Odyssey FL350R. Here are a few pictures of my first one when I was a bit younger.
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Here are some pictures of my new one…..

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I bought it for $800. It was in pretty rough shape but was complete minus the stock motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Someone had previously installed a fan cooled polaris 440cc Engine but was still using the stock reduction case . I check the compression when I picked it up and had 130psi in each cylinder and ran good. I am now in the process of tearing it down and rebuilding it. I am also going to be fabricating my own bolt on a arm conversion kit utilizing the front suspension assemblily from a 2006 Honda TRX450R ATV. I have been working on it for a little bit now so will update this soon. I hope I can add more photos of the progress because this currently won't let me.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 10:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Welcome new guy.
I have no doubt that you can and will finish it especially with all the info available on this site.
Yes you can add more photos but I think we are limited to 6 at a single post. Then you have to hit submit. Then the reply button again to add 6 more.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:22 pm
Posts: 194
Interesting. High center of gravity on the rear.

Front bumper looks bashed up, take a look for other bent or broken tubes/welds.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4400
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I bet that thing would tip over just looking hard at it.
It could be just me or the photo angle but it looks like both those machines have been rolled hard.
If you look at the roll cage on both of them it appears that the top lid is pushed down a bit at the front and the main roll hoop behind driver is bent right at the support tube.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
That was one of my concerns also when I first looked at it (top heavy). The Engine itself is not very heavy and I was going to put a new gas tank (4Gal) positioned below the Engine with fuel pump. to compensate the upper weight. With that and the rider weight do you still think it will be a problem? While I'm at it, I could re-position the Engine lower. I have never seen a FL350R that hasn't been rolled at some point and I have rolled mine before. The bumper is bent (no longer using it) but I did check for cracks in the frame & welds. The top left of the cage is bent a bit (not cracked),so it has rolled but is straight for them most part.

As I started to tear it down I also ran into a few issues. The left trailing arm was bent like a bow so I ordered both left and right replacements. The rear hubs were missing some studs so I ordered new hubs. I broke 3 bolts. One on the front bumper and 2 of the reduction case bolts I had to cut in order to get it out. Also, I was unable to remove the drive clutch from the reduction case. Any Tips?

Some pics of the tear down.

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Then new front suspension setup from 06 Honda TRX450R

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I also plan on having the frame powder coated. As much as I liked the spray paint special lol. I stripped it down prior to sand blasting. Probably a waste of time on my part.

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After looking at others who have tried this conversion I decide that I wanted to model mine after Mr2angry2's setup. I want it to be full bolt on and feel that this will be the easiest way to accomplish this.
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I am not a welder, fabricator, or machinist by trade. Any and all help, input, feedback, and criticism is welcome. I have started on the fabrication of the left and right brackets to accept the TRX450R suspension assembly and will update soon. Oh yeah, I bought another frame, reduction case, shifter w/cables, and axle for spares if needed.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
i welded my long travel on. i felt no need to make it removable. very happy with the way it turned out, and the ride

the first couple pics, are those fender just set on there..doesnt look like there are any brackets to hold them on


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
fully wrote:
i welded my long travel on. i felt no need to make it removable. very happy with the way it turned out, and the ride

the first couple pics, are those fender just set on there..doesnt look like there are any brackets to hold them on


There were no brackets on them. I bought the new fenders from the local Honda dealership (2006) and mounted them just to see what they would look like. I bought and installed the brackets after. Good catch lol. I no longer own the red one anyway. I just looked at your forum for the a-arm conversion. Looks good! It seems the the tricky part is the steering huh.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
yeah the steering isn't easy..there are a few ways to do it. not saying mine is the best, i just used a little different design


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
Yeah, I think I'm going to try that setup. How does it ride? How much bump steer do you get with yours if any?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
very little bump steer, and the ride with the fox floats is pretty nice


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
The wheels and tires that were on it when I bought it were junk. I bought some Douglas red Labels for front and rear. Kenda Bear Klaws (24x11-10) for rear tires and IPT mud lites (23x8-10) for front. Even thought they are marketed as different sizes height wise, they are physically about the same = 23 inches. Forgot I had this picture.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
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Location: Rhode Island
fully wrote:
very little bump steer, and the ride with the fox floats is pretty nice


Good to hear! I plan on upgrading the shocks on mine eventually also.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
After working thought some issues with the front wheels being much wider than the rear I have decided to mount the a-arms on the top side of the bolt on side frame I made, rather than on the side. They will be positioned slightly off (on top) to still allow full travel. This will shorten the front overall wheel span enough for me to be ok with it still being a bit wider.

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Its not complete yet but this is the idea.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 8:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
Ok, So I tacked up the bolt on side frame on right side last night and also tacked up the left side a-arms. I think that I will need to adjust the a arm mounts but I'm not sure. I thought I had everything lined up right but this is whats happening. With the a-arms down and the tire on the floor, the tire has slight negative camber. With the a arms all the way up (tire off of the floor about 8.5 inches) the the tire has positive camber. I didn't take any pictures unfortunately but can take some if needed. Need some help!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 10:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2657
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Do you have the measurements between the a-arm INNER mounts off the TRX450R they came from? This would be the distance from the lower to the upper mounts. Next measurement would be the distance of the quad a-arm mount holes to the center of the frame (or upper-to-upper/2 and lower-to-lower/2). If you match those measurements to the quad, you'll get the same geometry as the quad. For improvements, maybe scour the TRX boards to see what they hate and what they've fixed.

When you deviate from the quad's original suspension geometry, you're changing more than you might realize (i.e. camber, scrub, etc). It can be iterative, no doubt. Unless you've got replica geometry in a cad model and can make iterations in virtual space, all you can do is stick to the original design -or- keep clamping/tacking/moving until you get what you want.

Your arm length & outer arm spacing (spindle) are fixed. So all you can manipulate are the inner mount-to-mount distance, and the inner mount distance from frame center.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 11:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
In my build thread bullnerd explains very clearly how to get the right camber at ride height, full droop, and full bump. I'll try to find it. But simple version is. Set your lower a arm whet you want it. Now at ride height set camber where you want it. Take upper a arm and make an arc on the tab for upper a arm. Repeat for full bump and droop. Where the three arcs intersect is where your upper location is going to be.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 12:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
here are the camber umbers i was trying to get
0deg at full droop,-2 at ride hieght and a little more -5deg? at full bump.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
DMoneyAllstar,
I do not have measurements from the ATV because I bought the parts used. I'm going to ask on a TRX450R forum.

Fully,
I understand most of what you and Bullnerd are explaining but you both loose me at the "arc".
"Take upper a arm and make an arc on the tab for upper a arm. Repeat for full bump and droop. Where the three arcs intersect is where your upper location is going to be."
Can you explain this in further detail?

Thanks guys!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
tack your lower arm where you want it. install a-arm and hub, also install upper a-arm to hub.
tack a tab for the upper a-arm
at full droop set your caster around -2
put a marker or pencil through the bolt hole of the arm
keeping the same rake angle as the lower arm just move inside of the upper a-arm with the pencil in an arc on the tab that you tacked on. this should leave a small arc on the tab
repeat for ride height and full bump.
where they intersect is where you drill your mounting hole.

does that help? PM me if you need more help


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
here are some measurements that i had gotten.

center to center vertically is 5 3/8'' this is #2 in your picture
top horizontally is 7.5'' divide by 2 for your #1 picture
bottom horizontally is 5.5'' divide by 2 for you #1 picture


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
So I worked on it again tonight. I was still unable to get the camber where I wanted it through the full swing of the a-arms (kept going positive). I should have gotten the measurements first, I feel this is the cause of the issue. Another issue with the way that I currently have it set up is that it's going to be tough to get the tie rods in and working properly. I don't have enough clearance between the stock frame and the bolt on side frame. I have decided to start over with the bolt on side frame. This is my first time at doing anything like this so it is a bit of a learning curve for me. However, I feel confident that I can get this done. Thank you for all the help so far. I'll update this soon with the changes I'll be making.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1289
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
the placement of your upper control arm is off.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
I agree. I checked the measurements you provided and realized I was an 1 inch off vertically. I didn't really have an issue getting the horizontal measurement because I can adjust the upper a arm as needed before welding. The only other thing I was wondering is if the front pipes of the upper and lower a arms should be lined up vertically. As in, if the top one sits directly above the bottom one. The guys on the TRX forums don't want to help.

Additionally, I changed a few things. The first is that the vertical rectangular tubing I was originally using was 3x1 1/2 and now I'm using 2 1/2x1 1/2. I had to order it because the local place didn't carry that size. The shipping cost was the same as the metal, but this is the only size you would want to use. Fits perfect, now I can still use the OEM bumper or a modified OEM bumper. It is also 12 3/4 inches long now VS 11 inches. I did this so I could lower the a arm mounting pipes and allow more room for the steering. Second thing is I bought new a arm mounting tabs for the lower a arms. They will raise the lower a arms 1 inch and I'll be right at the 5 3/8.

I'll be using 1 1/4 Trail-Grear OD clamps to attach the new side frame to the OEM frame in the back.

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I should have some time this weekend to tac up the a arms. I'll update then, hopefully with good news.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 8:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
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Location: Rhode Island
I spoke to soon about the guys on the TRX forums. Here are the measurements that were provided from a 06 TRX450R. If anyone should need them in the future....

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 257
Location: Rhode Island
I finished tacking the a arms using the measurements above. Very happy with the results and I think it is going to work great. I still need to make the top shock mounts and then the steering.

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