Yes, number 13. It’s my birthday and has always been my lucky number, if there is such a thing. My wife picked 47 for the other.

Can't mess with it if it works. 13 it is.

I look forward to Friday the 13th..... its my lucky day(s).

Rand

Got my front and rear brakes bleed last night. I reverse bleed them as recommended and it worked quite well. I wanted to say thanks to site member Nitrosport_5. He rebuilt my master cylinders and rear caliper on both projects and did an excellent job on them. Also a thank you to site member DMoneyAllstar. He made my SS brake lines for both projects and also did a excellent job on them. Fitment was perfect even for the LT.

I had some time over the long weekend to get some work done. Got my secondary clutch back together with the new red spring and got that installed. Started to get into the electrical / install my Trail Tech Vapor gauge set. Customized the mount for the head unit so that I could mount it on the steering wheel. I made a bracket for the speed sensor to mount to the hub. Ran the wires to the rear for the temp sensor and RPM. The speed sensor & temp sensor wire can not be extended and I had to purchase and wire extension for the temp sensor. I also roughed in some wires for the water pump. I pulled most of it out last night and will reinstall with split wire loom to protect it all. I ran into a little issue with the muffler mounting bracket and the lower radiator mounting bracket. They are both aftermarket and both use the same mounting location (lower rear cage mounting holes). I decided to weld additional brackets to the exhaust mounting bracket so it will now hold the muffler and the bottom of the radiator. I made a bracket to mount the new mikuni fuel pumps and started to run the fuel lines. At this point I need to finish the electrical and then get into the carburetors.

Very nice work there sir.

Thanks CO! I’m slowly chipping away at it.

I didn’t realize I had a photo of the fuel pump bracket I made. Nothing special but securely mounts the fuel pump in the stock-ish location on the tank.

Sexy machine. Can’t wait to see it ripping around. 350s are quick little bugs.

Made some more progress these past few weeks. I received my new aluminum gas tank in from Emmanuel (Farr-Offroad) and got that installed. Re-routed my fuel lines / pump to accommodate. Very impressed with these gas tanks, they look like a work of art and fit like a glove. Finished all the electrical with the exception of the tail light and RPM wire for the trail tech. I roughed in the coolant lines and made a bracket to mount the pump. Got a little creative with the pump mount using a piece of angle iron and motorcycle mirror mount. I had purchased the "tall stack" intake for this project but it was just a bit to tall. The air filter would have been hitting the radiator. It would have also been very close to the exhaust muffler. In an effort to fix this I decided to cut the "tall stack" shorter and used the spare piece with a 45deg coupler. This gets the filter away from the radiator / exhaust and into cooler air (hopefully).

That old saying... "the devil is in the details" is true or maybe it's just my OCD.

I'll be finalizing everything in the next few weeks and going to fire her up.

On that radiator, I'd recommend making some sort of (Aluminum?) air foil/shroud so that air will be caught and forced through the fins rather than deflect off the radiator and downward. I presume you are running a fan, but a shroud will greatly help.

I am not running a fan on this radiator. This radiator was produced specifically for the FL350 and as it was described "The angled mounting causes airflow by convection preventing the need for a fan." I am going to run it as is for the time being and see how well it works. I have a temp sensor installed so I'll know if an overheating condition should arise.

That radiator is massive. Do you have a thermostat in line? Without something, it will over cool the top end and you Ody is going to be extremely cold blooded.

Rand

Cold blooded machines run better.
I run Honda Civic car radiators on our machines. The temp never goes over 120'F on the hottest day running up the mountain. Originally I used some cardboard to block off half the rad. My brother and I both noticed a noticeable power drop when the temp got over 140'F. The two strokes seem to run better the colder they are. Run it cold blooded in my opinion.

If it’s running that cold I suggest increasing piston to cylinder clearance on a forged piston to 4.5~5 thousandths instead of the normal 4 thou. The extra clearance is because the cylinder will not be expanding quite as much if it were running 180F. I run 5 thousandths on my two stroke jetskis due to lake water over cooling.

Seizure avoided.

The overcooling had never crossed my mind to be honest. I guess I was just thinking about fixing the overheating issue. I can add a thermostat if I need to. That does make sense about adding more clearance for a cooler running Engine but that's not the route I want to go at this point.

My son in Law's Ody has a top end from the stadium racing days and with a YFZ450 radiator which is about 1/2 that size, it runs at about 140 to 160 degrees. We managed to get it up to 180 running hard in the dunes once.

That radiator will work, but what I was trying to say was it's going to take a few minutes to warm up to operating temp.

Rand

I got one of my projects running today

Finalized the coolant hoses, pump, radiator, exhaust, and intake. I wired the the pump to a switch on the steering column. With the ignition in the on position, the switch will energize a relay, sending power to the pump. I am also using a in line 5amp fuse. On the pump side of the fuse, another wire is sent back to the steering column and energizes a small indicator light. This will allow me to monitor the fuse / power to the pump.

The Engine sounded great. How do I post a video on here?

Here are some pictures of the finished product.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bfev6dE1PyI

Now that I know it will run I’m going to finish putting it together and plan a day to test it at my friends farm. I’ll bring a few jets to have on hand if needed.

Sounds great and it's beautiful too.

I saw two issues in that vid.
1) Not sure how much fuel you had in that tank but you left the fuel cap off and fumes travel a long way. Your exhaust is right there.
2) I see you don't have the neutral safety switch hooked up on the transmission which means it will start in gear -- be careful on that one. Maybe you haven't gotten to that yet but you did start it up without it wired into the system.

Nice machine though. Great job.

Thanks guys!

I only had a little bit of fuel in there when I started it but is was stupid of me to not have the cap on. I obviously won't be driving it around or running it like that when all is said and done. Refueling will be difficult, I'll have to let the exhaust cool first. While on the subject of fuel.... I have decided to mix 40:1 and am using Motul 800 2T Pro Racing 2 stroke oil and Sunoco 260 GTX (98oct) ethanol free fuel.

I have abandoned the neutral safety switch. Grounded both wires. I know this is also a safety concern but one that I am willing to live with for now.

I got my second FL350 project up and running last week. It ran like crap and sounded horrible. I had some time over the weekend to mess around with the carb. I had adjusted the air screw 1 1/2 turns out to start. As I turned the air screw in the Engine ran much better. From what I have read, this means that I will need to change my pilot jet as it is running to lean currently (keihin 48). While I wait for new jets I'll be working on getting them both finished up.

I re-jetted my 2nd project this past weekend. I ended up using a size 50 jet for the pilot and have the air screw at 1 turn out. Revs up nice without hesitation. Still finishing up a few things on both. I washed and died the head nets over. Very easy and inexpensive, they came out great.

I haven't been spammed yet!!!

FYI

Don't wash and dye your head nets! They will shrink and no longer fit.