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It is currently Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:55 am

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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
its going to be later in the afternoon. If I find time to pull the Engine! We can check the piston gap there? I have feeler gauges some where. It been a long time since I used them to adjust valves LOL. I have the water cooled head on. Painted the top section to match buggy. Should be ok.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4560
Location: Carson City NV
mcali2 wrote:
its going to be later in the afternoon. If I find time to pull the Engine! We can check the piston gap there? I have feeler gauges some where. It been a long time since I used them to adjust valves LOL. I have the water cooled head on. Painted the top section to match buggy. Should be ok.


Sure, no problem, I have a set of feeler gauges.

I'll be home all day Saturday.


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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 11:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
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I was not able to pull the Engine. I worked all day and did not complete it. Its going to rain tomorrow so out trip is canciled maybe next week? Here are some pick of the buggy as of today.
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 12:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4404
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
That looks very nice. Good work so far.
Looks like the stock rear springs, are you going to change those or go to different shocks/springs all together ??


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 12:23 am 
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Thanks, I'm going to go to the Fox shocks but want to get botch machines on the road first. They have cost me a lot of money .....


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 12:28 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
mcali2 wrote:
want to get botch machines on the road first. They have cost me a lot of money .....


Baahahahahahaha welcome to the sport


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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 1:05 am 
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Location: Carson City NV
That's OK Mike, We'll see you next week.

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 1:10 pm 
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We are so close and yet I seem to spend so much time looking for parts, nut and bolts and where did this part go? I have not started taking parts from my oddy. nothing bad but common I put parts in a box! where did they go...... Does someone make a replacement seatbelt?


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
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Location: Carson City NV
mcali2 wrote:
We are so close and yet I seem to spend so much time looking for parts, nut and bolts and where did this part go? I have not started taking parts from my oddy. nothing bad but common I put parts in a box! where did they go...... Does someone make a replacement seatbelt?


Take a trip over to Summit Racing! That's where I picked up my belts from. Fibercraft might have them also.

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 259
Location: Rhode Island
mcali2 wrote:
We are so close and yet I seem to spend so much time looking for parts, nut and bolts and where did this part go? I have not started taking parts from my oddy. nothing bad but common I put parts in a box! where did they go...... Does someone make a replacement seatbelt?


Coming along nicely and I like that color green better also. :-) Keep up the good work!

I learned when taking these apart that zip lock bags and a sharpie marker go a long way. Keep track of all the nuts and bolts. I am notorious for misplacing things, especially tools that I just had in my hand.

Let me know if you find a good replacement seatbelt. I'm going to be in the market for one also. Anyone have a brand or part number that they have used / works well?


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 11:10 am 
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Ok who is the A hole who designed the brake system........... how do you bleed it? I have pulled a vaccuume on the lines and pressured the lines. It will not pump. I rebuilt everything. no rust inside the cylinders. I believe the rubber seals are on correctly as I copied the position from the old one. I have a tool to push or pull fluid. I did some fluid to pull through the master but still not pumping. may be air in it still?? Any hints?


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4560
Location: Carson City NV
You more than likely have air trapped in the master cylinder just below the rubber plungers. I have found the best way to bleed brakes on an Ody is the old pump and hold technique. I have thrown vaccuum pump systems across the garage getting so pissed off at them trying to get them to work!



Try this to get a little pressure in the lever.....

1.) Make sure the cables are properly. There should be .2mm or .008" clearance between the activating arm and the master cylinder plunger.

2.) Start pumping up the lever using no more than 1/2 stroke on the lever each time you pull on it. After you pull the lever and are ready to release it for the next lever pull, let it snap back quickly. This will help to release the tiny little bubbles that get trapped in the system.

3.) Once you start to feel resistance in the lever, then you can bleed as normal.

If you have any way to vigorously vibrate the master cylinder it will help remove the air bubbles.


You can also try forcing fluid through the system in reverse to prime the master cylinder.



Rand


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 3:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
I was trying to push fluid from the wheel to the master but could not get anything to move. I will keep trying. maybe I need to fill it up to the top seal it and remove it and shake the crap out of it LOL


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4560
Location: Carson City NV
I actually have a set of steel braided lines for the new Ody but have been reluctant to put them on because bleeding the front master is such a pain in the butt!

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 4:10 pm 
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I make a lot for the master and put a valve on it and give it some pressure try and force some fluid down.


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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 3:41 pm 
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well I was able to get the fronts working, kind of... I had to clear the lines ans there were plugged up with sludge. next pulled a vacuum direct from the bottom of the master. when I had fluid moving I filled the brake lines from the wheels then reconnected the line to the master. Then the pumping started. It is still coming out dark fluid from the wheel cylinders I think. I will keep flushing out till I get a nice clean fluid. I have to adjust the brake shoes too. I think that will give it a firm brake. I still have to do the rears, mount the seat and frame, lights and radiator. I will test fire it after that is done. Check fuel pump flow. I did rebuild the pump but not 100% sure it was done correctly. The kit came with 2 extra gaskets that were not on the pump but the original pump gaskets were thicker. I doubled up to give it the same profile. I found come clear rock guard bed liner spray. I will test an area and see how it looks. The spray paint is not very resistant to damage lacking in a hardener. I cleared over the vin so you can read it. that is harder than the paint. I'm really liking the green color. I should have welded a mount for the flag. Where do I pull the power for the water pump from? I'm not sure the ignition is designed for a larger amp pull. I guess I could direct wire a relay and tie it into the ignition.


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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4560
Location: Carson City NV
mcali2 wrote:
well I was able to get the fronts working, kind of... I had to clear the lines ans there were plugged up with sludge. next pulled a vacuum direct from the bottom of the master. when I had fluid moving I filled the brake lines from the wheels then reconnected the line to the master. Then the pumping started. It is still coming out dark fluid from the wheel cylinders I think. I will keep flushing out till I get a nice clean fluid. I have to adjust the brake shoes too. I think that will give it a firm brake. I still have to do the rears, mount the seat and frame, lights and radiator. I will test fire it after that is done. Check fuel pump flow. I did rebuild the pump but not 100% sure it was done correctly. The kit came with 2 extra gaskets that were not on the pump but the original pump gaskets were thicker. I doubled up to give it the same profile. I found come clear rock guard bed liner spray. I will test an area and see how it looks. The spray paint is not very resistant to damage lacking in a hardener. I cleared over the vin so you can read it. that is harder than the paint. I'm really liking the green color. I should have welded a mount for the flag. Where do I pull the power for the water pump from? I'm not sure the ignition is designed for a larger amp pull. I guess I could direct wire a relay and tie it into the ignition.


Adjusting both of the brake shoes so that they are tight against the drums makes for easier brake bleeding. Once the handle is firm, adjust the shoes so there is a slight drag, just like VW brake drums.

To mount the flag, simply use one of the holes in the bracket that the upper air box is mounted to.

If memory serves me correct, I switched relay on and off with the black wire that runs from the ignition switch to the regulator rectifier and tapped the hot side from the battery. You can tap the switch wire at the point where it runs up the frame just below the regulator rectifier.

I used the schematic below just replacing the lights in the diagram with the water pump and of course, the toggle switch in the picture would actually be the key switch.

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
I'm still waiting on some parts to mount the rad. I ordered a set of clams but did not notice they would be shipping from china. I hate that. 3 weeks! I ordered another set at 3 times the cost for the same part but in the US. I just have to plumb in the rad, bleed the rear brakes and it should be ready for a test. Then I can start back up on the orange 350!


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
water pump to pump from the head to the top of the Rad or to the bottom of the rad?
Or from the cold side of the rad to the head? again the top or the bottom of the rad?
IIR the hot water is up high and as it cools drops down.


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4560
Location: Carson City NV
Since you are using a Rand's head, plumb the water flow so that the port on the top of the head goes to the top of the radiator. You want the coolest water to enter the head at the front where the most heat is produced.

Looking at your picture, I would rotate the head 90 degrees clockwise so that the lower entrance port is on the side where the exhaust port is and have the top exit port towards the rear of the Ody.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 11:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
[image]Image[/image]
I mounted the water pump in line. I hope the pump does not hurt air flow much.
[image]Image[/image]
[image]Image[/image]
I had it all hooked up before reading all the info. I will be testing it like this first. I can take temp readings and see what the before and after is. I was going to try and start it but need to find some good mixing oil. I found the basic stuff but I'm looking for the Honda or other high quality oil.


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4560
Location: Carson City NV
Essentially you could block 1/2 of that radiator and still have enough cooling when just cooling the dead by itself.

Is that a Prius water pump I see?

As far as quality oil, I use Amsoil Dominator. Specially formulated for the hot running air cooled top ends.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 1:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
It said it was from a M Benz. I need to complete the wiring. It will be always I think. I'm not sure if I trust my son to remember to turn it on.
I have next week off so I will be yanking the other Engine .


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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2017 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:31 am
Posts: 80
Well i have been dicking with it all day. it is running good but still have fuel issues.. My stock pumps after rebuild don't seem to work. I copied the stock one.Ii don't know. I have the after market one and it does not want to pump worth a darn. The pressure hose to the pump has a pulse. when the tank is sealed the pressure pushes the fuel enough and the pump keeps up just fine ( not driven yet just running higher rpms. It tries to fill the filter in higher rpms.. but when the Engine if off the fuel keeps flowing and out the over fill of the carb. I lost about 1/2 a tank. much of it was in the Engine. I pulled the carb apart and checked the float lever and it is set at 16mm. I moved it to 18mm to shut off. it seals when i blow through the hose but clearly fuel can force by.. I'm glad it is running but I need to figure out the fuel issue. I have the manual with my and it is exactly like the book. even the check valve.


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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2017 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
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Location: East Peoria IL
Could the float itself be bad? If it is loaded with fuel it may have lost its buoyancy. I remember years ago my father showing me a old copper float that had 2 halfs soldered together and it had leaked and let fuel past the solder. This made the float heavy and would not shut off.

At any rate your Engine is probably loaded up and will run like crap until you get it cleared out. I believe you can weight the float to ensure it is not saturated with fuel. I do not recall, but the Honda manual may specify the weight limit.


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