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 Post subject: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
Started tearing down my fl350 today. Going to be a long journey, it was abused by its past owner so i decided to resurrect it.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
More


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oddy5.jpeg
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oddy 7.jpeg
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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 11:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4038
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
canadian oddy wrote:
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


thank you for this list most have already been dine but some haven't i have a random question i parked this machine because when it started it would rev up. Any clue what it could be? since i bought the machine i have put the line between the pump and fliter (replaced it) and got a new intake. could something i did effect the Engine? air leak?


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:34 pm 
Online

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4038
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
New To Odesseys wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


thank you for this list most have already been dine but some haven't i have a random question i parked this machine because when it started it would rev up. Any clue what it could be? since i bought the machine i have put the line between the pump and fliter (replaced it) and got a new intake. could something i did effect the Engine? air leak?


Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
STOP right there. Do NOT start that thing again. You got a big air leak and you are going to blow the Engine. You better find the air leak so do a pressure/vacuum test.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
canadian oddy wrote:
New To Odesseys wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


thank you for this list most have already been dine but some haven't i have a random question i parked this machine because when it started it would rev up. Any clue what it could be? since i bought the machine i have put the line between the pump and fliter (replaced it) and got a new intake. could something i did effect the Engine? air leak?


Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
STOP right there. Do NOT start that thing again. You got a big air leak and you are going to blow the Engine. You better find the air leak so do a pressure/vacuum test.


okay thank you [this is gonna be fun] when these symptoms started it got parked and i went on to my other 350 so she should be okay ill have to inspect! Thanks for the warning


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
*these*


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2207
Location: East Peoria IL
you can edit your post when you typo - I know - I do it all the time. :-)


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
rmesser wrote:
you can edit your post when you typo - I know - I do it all the time. :-)


LOL thanks


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 6:53 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 649
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
This should a easy fix

But a leak down test would hurt

There is NO Reverse Switch in the Gear box
See your pic oddy5
So the rev limiter would be Activated

unless the Limiter Mod has been done.

yeoddy


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 3:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4038
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
wyeeoddy wrote:
This should a easy fix

But a leak down test would hurt

There is NO Reverse Switch in the Gear box
See your pic oddy5
So the rev limiter would be Activated

unless the Limiter Mod has been done.

yeoddy


WOW good eye.
Even drunk the Aussie's can see straight ------------------ but they can't spell a sentence.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
Got some work done this weekend. excuse my absence of knowledge but how will that ''mod?" make a leak down test hard? Also in the front where my j arms connect to the frame is bent, how can they be re-straightened?


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more oddy.jpg
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moreoddy2.jpg
moreoddy2.jpg [ 55.62 KiB | Viewed 370 times ]
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more oddy 4.jpg
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more oddy 5.jpg
more oddy 5.jpg [ 49.91 KiB | Viewed 370 times ]
moreoddy 6.jpg
moreoddy 6.jpg [ 41.56 KiB | Viewed 370 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
last one


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 11:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4038
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You are going to find it very hard to straighten those bent J arm mounts. You might have to run what you got as long as the top arm don't interfere with the shock. I had some, but very little success with a sledge hammer on the ones on the death machine. I was using a twenty pounder. I don't think I can recommend it but if you do then you better make sure you got the nut on it so that you don't smack the threads. Also you better have a spare nut because it will be toast. The death machine had a bent frame from the crash anyways so I didn't care.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
canadian oddy wrote:
You are going to find it very hard to straighten those bent J arm mounts. You might have to run what you got as long as the top arm don't interfere with the shock. I had some, but very little success with a sledge hammer on the ones on the death machine. I was using a twenty pounder. I don't think I can recommend it but if you do then you better make sure you got the nut on it so that you don't smack the threads. Also you better have a spare nut because it will be toast. The death machine had a bent frame from the crash anyways so I didn't care.


Okay thanks anyway!


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
Is there any good front rims to run except the stock? Mine are beat up pretty bad.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4521
Location: Carson City NV
Yamaha 250 2x4 Timberwolf wheels will fit.

Do a search here on the site regarding the subject.

You can also purchase Douglas aluminum front wheels.

Rand


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
Randman wrote:
Yamaha 250 2x4 Timberwolf wheels will fit.

Do a search here on the site regarding the subject.

Rand


Okay thank you!


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4038
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here are the machines with the same wheels as the oddy:
Note the QuadRacer is the only one with the same rears.

TRX 200 90-93 & 96-97 Front 21x7x10 10×5 4×110
TRX 250 Big Red 86-87 Front 21x7x10 10×5 4×110
TRX 250X 86-87 Front 22x7x10 10×5 4×110
YFB 250 Timberwolf 2x4, 95-98 (F)22x7x10 10x5 4/110
Bear Tracker 250 99-09 (F)22x7x10 10x5 4/110
Bruin 250 05 (F)22x7x10 10x5 4/110

LT 250R QuadRacer 85-86 (R) 22x11x10 10x8 4/130 steel 18R411 Aluminum H184131

Odyssey 85-86 Front 21x7x10 10×5 4×110
Rear 24x11x10 10×8 4×130

We like running the ITP front wheels and stock rears because the offset makes it real wide and the oddy seems to handle better when the foot print is square.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 1:01 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4521
Location: Carson City NV
Can Odd, have you ever ran the stock front wheels?

The stock offset makes a big difference in a tight turn. The timberwolf wheel is as close to the front stock offset as you will ever get. I believe its only 1/2 inch different offset and 1 inch wider.

Rand


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 4038
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Randman wrote:
Can Odd, have you ever ran the stock front wheels?

The stock offset makes a big difference in a tight turn. The timberwolf wheel is as close to the front stock offset as you will ever get. I believe its only 1/2 inch different offset and 1 inch wider.

Rand


Yes we have. Two machines I bought came stock wheels and one had aftermarket aluminums. We both hated the stock because they would not turn and ploughed bad. So we experimented. The best combo was the wide offset ITP fronts and the stock rears. This made a more square foot print and they turned a lot better. We also experimented with toe in/out. We like 1" toe out. I guess a lot of this has to do with driving style as well, but this is what works for us. Everybody has a different machine. Some like red heads and others blondes.


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 Post subject: Re: My FL350 restore
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 122
Did you run the same tires with these rims from the Yamaha 250 2x4 Timberwolf? Like the factory size?


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