PilotOdyssey.com
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/

My FL350 restore
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17246
Page 1 of 1

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:43 pm ]
Post subject:  My FL350 restore

Started tearing down my fl350 today. Going to be a long journey, it was abused by its past owner so i decided to resurrect it.

Attachments:
odyssey.jpg
odyssey.jpg [ 59.77 KiB | Viewed 1636 times ]
odyssey 2.jpg
odyssey 2.jpg [ 62.2 KiB | Viewed 1636 times ]
odyssey 3.jpg
odyssey 3.jpg [ 48.6 KiB | Viewed 1636 times ]
odddy2.jpeg
odddy2.jpeg [ 36.77 KiB | Viewed 1636 times ]
oddy3.jpeg
oddy3.jpeg [ 53.92 KiB | Viewed 1636 times ]
oddy4.jpeg
oddy4.jpeg [ 61.12 KiB | Viewed 1636 times ]

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

More

Attachments:
oddy5.jpeg
oddy5.jpeg [ 55.6 KiB | Viewed 1635 times ]
oddy6.jpeg
oddy6.jpeg [ 51.61 KiB | Viewed 1635 times ]
oddy 7.jpeg
oddy 7.jpeg [ 38.68 KiB | Viewed 1635 times ]

Author:  canadian oddy [ Thu Jan 26, 2017 11:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

canadian oddy wrote:
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


thank you for this list most have already been dine but some haven't i have a random question i parked this machine because when it started it would rev up. Any clue what it could be? since i bought the machine i have put the line between the pump and fliter (replaced it) and got a new intake. could something i did effect the Engine? air leak?

Author:  canadian oddy [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

New To Odesseys wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


thank you for this list most have already been dine but some haven't i have a random question i parked this machine because when it started it would rev up. Any clue what it could be? since i bought the machine i have put the line between the pump and fliter (replaced it) and got a new intake. could something i did effect the Engine? air leak?


Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
STOP right there. Do NOT start that thing again. You got a big air leak and you are going to blow the Engine. You better find the air leak so do a pressure/vacuum test.

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

canadian oddy wrote:
New To Odesseys wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Looks like all the pieces are there so be happy. It just needs paint and some TLC.
List of things to check:

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel and pump vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold


thank you for this list most have already been dine but some haven't i have a random question i parked this machine because when it started it would rev up. Any clue what it could be? since i bought the machine i have put the line between the pump and fliter (replaced it) and got a new intake. could something i did effect the Engine? air leak?


Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
STOP right there. Do NOT start that thing again. You got a big air leak and you are going to blow the Engine. You better find the air leak so do a pressure/vacuum test.


okay thank you [this is gonna be fun] when these symptoms started it got parked and i went on to my other 350 so she should be okay ill have to inspect! Thanks for the warning

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

*these*

Author:  rmesser [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 4:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

you can edit your post when you typo - I know - I do it all the time. :-)

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

rmesser wrote:
you can edit your post when you typo - I know - I do it all the time. :-)


LOL thanks

Author:  wyeeoddy [ Sat Jan 28, 2017 6:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

This should a easy fix

But a leak down test would hurt

There is NO Reverse Switch in the Gear box
See your pic oddy5
So the rev limiter would be Activated

unless the Limiter Mod has been done.

yeoddy

Author:  canadian oddy [ Sat Jan 28, 2017 3:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

wyeeoddy wrote:
This should a easy fix

But a leak down test would hurt

There is NO Reverse Switch in the Gear box
See your pic oddy5
So the rev limiter would be Activated

unless the Limiter Mod has been done.

yeoddy


WOW good eye.
Even drunk the Aussie's can see straight ------------------ but they can't spell a sentence.

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Got some work done this weekend. excuse my absence of knowledge but how will that ''mod?" make a leak down test hard? Also in the front where my j arms connect to the frame is bent, how can they be re-straightened?

Attachments:
more oddy.jpg
more oddy.jpg [ 66.67 KiB | Viewed 1524 times ]
moreoddy2.jpg
moreoddy2.jpg [ 55.62 KiB | Viewed 1524 times ]
moreoddy3.jpg
moreoddy3.jpg [ 56.31 KiB | Viewed 1524 times ]
more oddy 4.jpg
more oddy 4.jpg [ 65.94 KiB | Viewed 1524 times ]
more oddy 5.jpg
more oddy 5.jpg [ 49.91 KiB | Viewed 1524 times ]
moreoddy 6.jpg
moreoddy 6.jpg [ 41.56 KiB | Viewed 1524 times ]

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

last one

Attachments:
more oddy 8.jpg
more oddy 8.jpg [ 37.82 KiB | Viewed 1523 times ]

Author:  canadian oddy [ Sun Jan 29, 2017 11:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

You are going to find it very hard to straighten those bent J arm mounts. You might have to run what you got as long as the top arm don't interfere with the shock. I had some, but very little success with a sledge hammer on the ones on the death machine. I was using a twenty pounder. I don't think I can recommend it but if you do then you better make sure you got the nut on it so that you don't smack the threads. Also you better have a spare nut because it will be toast. The death machine had a bent frame from the crash anyways so I didn't care.

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

canadian oddy wrote:
You are going to find it very hard to straighten those bent J arm mounts. You might have to run what you got as long as the top arm don't interfere with the shock. I had some, but very little success with a sledge hammer on the ones on the death machine. I was using a twenty pounder. I don't think I can recommend it but if you do then you better make sure you got the nut on it so that you don't smack the threads. Also you better have a spare nut because it will be toast. The death machine had a bent frame from the crash anyways so I didn't care.


Okay thanks anyway!

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Tue Feb 14, 2017 7:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Is there any good front rims to run except the stock? Mine are beat up pretty bad.

Author:  Randman [ Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Yamaha 250 2x4 Timberwolf wheels will fit.

Do a search here on the site regarding the subject.

You can also purchase Douglas aluminum front wheels.

Rand

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Randman wrote:
Yamaha 250 2x4 Timberwolf wheels will fit.

Do a search here on the site regarding the subject.

Rand


Okay thank you!

Author:  canadian oddy [ Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Here are the machines with the same wheels as the oddy:
Note the QuadRacer is the only one with the same rears.

TRX 200 90-93 & 96-97 Front 21x7x10 10×5 4×110
TRX 250 Big Red 86-87 Front 21x7x10 10×5 4×110
TRX 250X 86-87 Front 22x7x10 10×5 4×110
YFB 250 Timberwolf 2x4, 95-98 (F)22x7x10 10x5 4/110
Bear Tracker 250 99-09 (F)22x7x10 10x5 4/110
Bruin 250 05 (F)22x7x10 10x5 4/110

LT 250R QuadRacer 85-86 (R) 22x11x10 10x8 4/130 steel 18R411 Aluminum H184131

Odyssey 85-86 Front 21x7x10 10×5 4×110
Rear 24x11x10 10×8 4×130

We like running the ITP front wheels and stock rears because the offset makes it real wide and the oddy seems to handle better when the foot print is square.

Author:  Randman [ Wed Feb 15, 2017 1:01 am ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Can Odd, have you ever ran the stock front wheels?

The stock offset makes a big difference in a tight turn. The timberwolf wheel is as close to the front stock offset as you will ever get. I believe its only 1/2 inch different offset and 1 inch wider.

Rand

Author:  canadian oddy [ Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Randman wrote:
Can Odd, have you ever ran the stock front wheels?

The stock offset makes a big difference in a tight turn. The timberwolf wheel is as close to the front stock offset as you will ever get. I believe its only 1/2 inch different offset and 1 inch wider.

Rand


Yes we have. Two machines I bought came stock wheels and one had aftermarket aluminums. We both hated the stock because they would not turn and ploughed bad. So we experimented. The best combo was the wide offset ITP fronts and the stock rears. This made a more square foot print and they turned a lot better. We also experimented with toe in/out. We like 1" toe out. I guess a lot of this has to do with driving style as well, but this is what works for us. Everybody has a different machine. Some like red heads and others blondes.

Author:  New To Odesseys [ Wed Feb 15, 2017 12:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: My FL350 restore

Did you run the same tires with these rims from the Yamaha 250 2x4 Timberwolf? Like the factory size?

Page 1 of 1 All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
https://www.phpbb.com/