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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
Short story: (kinda NEWBIE Update/Build)
Hello, My Names is Jesse. I've had an addiction to go-karts every since I could walk. I remember the school bus would drop us off at a family friends house; in the barn was an old FL250 that rolled. I thought about it for many years, but the owners wouldn't sell it. I tried to build a go-kart like it from old lawnmowers I found at the local junkyard.
Then got my license, abandoned the go-kart and built some would say a road legal go-kart, a Honda CRX. I still thought about the FL250. Many years later when I finally made some money for myself and I tracked down and bought that exact fl250.
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It was pretty rough, but thanks to Partzilla and Ebay I rebuilt it. I realized after the first time at the ATV Park, suspension is pretty important. So I traded it for an even worse off, Modded FL350.
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The FL350 has an 340cc Snowmobile Engine welded in from a 1979 Polaris Apollo. My newbie thread:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15300

So after a lot of learning about Polaris P85 Clutches, Belt Alignment and width, Dayco's Website for dimensional belts (super helpful), machining and some expensive clutch tools; I finally have a strong running FL350.

My latest Pic:
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So on to the build Portion:

I purchased the Farr-Offroad bolt on subframe that uses TRX450 suspension. The kit is awesome, well thought out, welds look great, sub-frame looks super strong. The kit I bought came with all the nuts/bolts and it even came with 4 tie-rods with bell crank.

I'm in the process of painting, I made sorta Parts mobile in my Garage:
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Information online is a little scarce on this kit perhaps because its newer. I will try to provide some dimensions like height, width, and possibly weight vs stock.
More Updates to Come:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
UPDATE. Bolted all together, ground clearance is so amazingly high. Unable to give a measurement because I measured from the lowest point which happen to be the tubing in front of the steering shaft. That needed to be cut off to clear the new subframe. The width seems to be near 60", which is great because I only made my trailer that wide..lol

I was actually able to adjust the inner tie rod without jacking it up.
I wasn't sure how to set the tie rods. I bottomed out the adjustment on the outer tie rods, locked them in place, and made my toe adjustments using the inner tie rods. It seemed to put the pivot point of the tie rod on the bell crank nearly inline with the pivot of the A-arms. So when I force the suspension up and down, the wheels seem to stay nearly straight.

This is a pic of my Hillbilly Alignment:
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I still need to figure out the brake lines, I ordered 27" lines with fitting attached. Hopefully I can run a line and tee it off before I go riding on sunday.

So I have some leftover front end parts if anyone is interested, will be posted in forsale.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
I debated using Braided -4AN brake lines. I priced out the line, the -4AN to 3/16 Inverted flare fitting, -4AN to 10mm Banjo fitting and it seem to cost more and a bit more hassle than the premade Russel line.
The Russell 657390 Brake Hose was 27" and had the fittings I needed. I'm sure there was a cheaper way to do it, but these just seem to fit perfectly. They have a hex head on the inverted flare side that seemed to tightly fit into the stock brackets with the stock hose clip.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
I love this suspension, I can goo way faster threw the trails and mud puddles.
Some Muddy photos just for fun:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Good job with it and looks like you had some fun!

That is a pretty nice kit from Farr from what I can tell. I know his full kit sells for around $1500 without shocks. This one must be a little more affordable. Approximately how much $$ you think your into it after buying the TRX a-arm assembly, shocks, breaks, etc.? I think the only downside to this setup is not being able to run a front bumper. You may want to make a custom one to protect the front sub-frame cross bar where the front bumper used to be. One crash and your kit could be toast.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1430
Location: Norco, CA
careful with that pressure washer, it will blow water right on past seals where it can't get out,


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 5:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
So Inspired by Methodical's 5 link build, I decided build my own.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
rear pics


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Nice!

Did you buy the brackets for the 5 link from someone here or make them?

I remember making a sketch on how to use the Polaris uprights for the carrier.

I was talking about that for years! Nice to see one built.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
bullnerd wrote:
Nice!

Did you buy the brackets for the 5 link from someone here or make them?

I remember making a sketch on how to use the Polaris uprights for the carrier.

I was talking about that for years! Nice to see one built.


I built everything from scratch. I'm greatful to save some time buy puchasing some flat tabs from Allstar Performance, but they still needed to be cut / modified. Other tabs for the upper arm I made from 1/8" in plate, The shock tabs from 3/16" plate. As for the knuckle bracket, I bent 3/16" steel into the angles to fit the Polaris knuckle.

The Polaris Knuckle uses 10mm bolts. I had to modify a metal bushing to inside fit the plastic bushing of the knuckle, to adapt for a 1/2 bolt.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Very cool! :-)

Keep the photos coming!

I would like to see how you mounded the rear upper link. Looks to be a removable mount?

What is the rear width with the wheels installed?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Welllllll ---- it looks like we got a very skilled fabricator here. Nice work.
So how did you get the Polaris axels to mate to the oddy gearbox ??
It doesn't look like any hack n whack job so how did you do the splines ??


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Awesome job dude!

D-money was the guy I was thinking about. We hashed out how to use the polaris upright.

Check out these tabs, this is what I would like to try. Very simple.

Sorry for a the huge pic!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
I used 2008 polaris RZR 800 rear knuckles, hubs, and axles. I do have a bit of a regret using the RZR800 axle. The stock width
of a RZR800 is 50"wide vs the width of RZR800S which is 64" wide. So RZR800S has a longer axle and would of made the buggy wider in the rear to be more even with the front.

The offset of the polaris rim is 2 + 3, which in this build mounts the shock about 1/2" from the rim and almost touches an 8" wide tire. I prefer a wider stance, and had to clear the shock, so I purchased 2" solid Aluminum wheel spacers which are surprisingly heavy.

So the rear width is about 55". So if you wanted to build a buggy to work on Narrow four wheel trails between trees this is it...lol.

As for the axle, it was a "hack and slash"...lol. These axles are hard, really hard... I used my chop saw to cut the big pieces off, then I had a buddy machine a flat spot on it. He tried it in his pre WW1 lathe, after sparks flew he opted to use a CNC mil. Even after figuring out the right speed / feed rate, the mill still had a hard time cutting the chrome moly axles. He machined a small pocket in the RZR800 cup to clearance the transmission output shaft and to help align it for welding.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
I did everything with straight sections of tubing. I would of loved to purchase (Almost did several times) a tubing bender. That would of looked better and made for less welding odd angles with many attempts to get it right with my harbor freight tubing notcher. Unfortunately I couldn't justify spending the min $400 for an Eastwood bender or modifying a Harbor Fright pipe bender to work for tubing, perhaps in the future.

The rear upper mounts are removable thanks to a 1" OD solid steel bushing attached to tubing, and I used threaded bungs into the frame. I love the way the saddle gussets looks on the corners an help blend in the seams. Even though my welds look like poo.

I looked everywhere to find premade tabs for 1" tube but in the end I had to make them. The upper tabs for the upper arm are made from 1/8" plate that I made triangle gussets for.

I made a cross brace from 3/16" steel that miraculously clears the belt, carburetors, ignition coils, and the Engine fan shroud. Although I will not be able to remove the cross brace from the right side without removing the Engine. As for changing a belt, the left side can be easily removed and swung out of the way.

I am not an experienced welder but I tried to do my best with my Lincoln Electric MIG.
When welding, it is truly a challenge to make molten metal not be affected by gravity. All the awkward angles and positions to make the weld look ok, but in the end, I guess you can just spend hours grinding them down.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
I believe I have the full 10"of travel with fox air shock. However the wheel cambers IN at rest, then cambers OUT during the travel. I think a narrower tire was good choice for this.

I over complicated the alignment. I borrowed a whole bunch of weights from a friend to preload the chassis (my weight) and set the camber. But that would change depending on how much pressure I had in the shocks. Then I thought what if i aligned the wheel with the suspension arms level, but that cambered in too much at rest. With the arms level that was exactly the middle of my shock travel at 5".

So in the end I aligned it as it sits on the ground. No weight in the seat, wheels perfectly vertical.

I think a longer axle and longer arms would help minimize the camber issues I have during the suspension travel. Or I could just use a shock with less travel but who doesn't want to use all 10" if they could.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Nice job.

For me, pretty is a waste of time. As long as it holds, Its going to get beat up anyway.

So how do you like it?

Vids?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
bullnerd wrote:
Nice job.

For me, pretty is a waste of time. As long as it holds, Its going to get beat up anyway.

So how do you like it?

Vids?


I agree, Doesn't have to look good, it just has to work. Although Methodical's powdered coated builds do look amazing.

I'm not sure how to post a video, I'm trying to figure out that now. I have a bounce video and a walk around video.

I zip tied it together to try to ride yesterday (snowy pics) but it took way to long to get it running. I haven't rode it yet.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
With my old exhaust I tried the red RTV on the stock flange but no matter how clean I made it, it still blew out.

So I built a new exhaust last week. I purchased 1.625" tube bent at a 3" radius in a U shape from summit racing. I cut the bend out I needed, welded the stock flange on. I could then use the ball flange of the stock manifold, so there is no need for a gasket.

I cut and flipped the 90* bend from the muffler, stretched it over 1.75" exhaust pipe, and welded.

I can finally adjust the seat all the way back and not destroy the aluminium heat shield I made. Hopefully no more leaks and less noises.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
wow. that's awesome. love it. where did you get the tie rods from, this is something I would eventually like to do, but just don't have the funds to do.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
fully wrote:
wow. that's awesome. love it. where did you get the tie rods from, this is something I would eventually like to do, but just don't have the funds to do.


I was crazy excited to find out I didnt have to weld bungs to the end of tube to make the tie rods. Speedway Motors saved me soo much time. You can purchase premade threaded tubes by size and material and its cheaper than building one. Soo awesome:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged- ... ,2090.html


As for the rod ends, I purchased from these guys before and they are comparable in price, They also have misalignment joints, adapter to fit smaller sizes, and a bunch of other cool stuff: https://www.qscomponents.com/collection ... 0-rod-ends

One more link for great metal fabrication stuff:
https://www.aa-mfg.com/product/aa-315-i ... -1-8-wide/


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
Posts: 1718
Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
so is there an update on this..would love to know how its working out


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
I'm glad someone had taken interest in this. I will add some pics and info soon


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 11:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:25 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Oberlin, Ohio
So My maiden Voyage was in may. It started out as a ruff day.

I arrived at Bear creek which is a great ATV park just outside of Canton Ohio. Its a place I know well and due to the trail maintenance, its also a place where you need a lot of ground clearance with good suspension.
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I unloaded, started the buggy, and took one lap around the gravel road. Suspension seemed to hold together, but was way too stiff. So I decided to check the pressure and perhaps bleed out some with my NO LOSS fill/bleed tool. I screwed on the tool and it immediately let all Nitrogen escape, and the buggy fell to the ground. My fault for leaving a valve open.
So I tried to fill it with my small, but heavy duty Cigarette Lighter air compressor. I could only get the pressure to about 100 psi, which would get it off the ground but not enough to run it.
I couldn't quite find a place to fill the shock with Nitrogen in the area (tire shop).
I'd prefer nitrogen and I don't want to introduce moisture to the shock, but in a pinch I decided to acquire a high pressure bicycle pump (200 psi max).
I filled the shock to about 185 psi using the bicycle pump. I drove back to Bear Creek, unloaded, and Drove angry.

The buggy preformed amazing, according to the mud lines on my shock I used every bit of travel on the shock. After I got home and spray the mud off I noticed I bent the sub-frame the upper control arm attaches too. I originally used .083" wall tubing, so I just built another sub-frame using .125" wall tubing.

Jig pics:
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Final product
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Awesome!


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