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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:57 pm 
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Here is my FL350 in the midst of the Farr Rotax 670 conversion. It’s been a fun but frustrating project. I also have the Farr TRX450R front suspension kit that really came out nice. I have been on this forum quite a bit and I have studied every Rotax conversion thread and picture, it’s been a huge help. I have a few questions for you guys that have done the conversion.

1. I’d love to know how you set up the dual carb throttle cable assembly. What kind of bracket did you come up with and how did you route the original cable?

2. Where did you mount your fuel pump? The website recommends mounting it to the Engine mount but I’d like to have it more accessible.

3. I’d love some guidance on the wiring. I bought a Skido repair manual and I am trying to make sense of the wiring set up. It has to be more straight forward than what I am seeing.

Any pictures would be a huge help. I’m in Houston, TX and I’m looking forward to hearing this baby fire up.

Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:31 pm 
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Posts: 4730
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You best bet is the search box above. Type in rotax conversion. Lots of stuff there.
Here is one post of a rotax: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14265&hilit=rotax+conversion

Also look directly below this post. There are many suggested threads.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 2:32 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
oppps
Once again I have read stuff to fast and commented before I fully understand what I read.

Quote: I have been on this forum quite a bit and I have studied every Rotax conversion thread and picture, it’s been a huge help.

I missed that part of your comment.
Ignore my comments previous.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 12:47 am 
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Posts: 49
The rotax Engine electronics are mostly plug and play, the Engine will run like by just plugging electronics together but its best to have the kill switch wired up first, what you have to tie into the stock harness is the kill switch wire and the charging system wires, it is also necessary to wire in a temp switch for the rad fan, summit racing has a kit with sensor that will screw directly into the head on the rotax Engine.

The kill switch wire is the single black wire coming out of the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) box, on the older models is comes out of the Engine base. This wire when grounded will shut the Engine off

The two yellow wires coming out of the Engine go to the voltage regulator, the ody reg has 3 yellow wires so tie 2 into 1 before connecting to the 2 from the Engine.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 12:56 am 
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To join the stock throttle cable to the 2 into 1 throttle cable that comes with the kit you have to.
1. pop the cap off the junction
2. pull the slider inside up to the top and remove whats left of the oil injection cable and remove whats left of the single cable in the cap.
3. remove the nut from the end of the stock cable and insert the end of the stock cable in the cap and connect the cable end to the slider in the junction.
4. push the cap back onto the junction and your done


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 12:58 am 
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Also don't forget to install the original bumper clamps on the front suspension subframe


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 1:55 am 
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Thanks Emmanuel, that is exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the info. I can’t wait to hear it fire up that first time.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 1:45 am 
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Emmanuel, I haven’t been able to find the temp switch on Summit. Do you have a part number or description? I’ll add an on/off switch until I can put the temp switch on.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:08 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
dvharv wrote:
Emmanuel, I haven’t been able to find the temp switch on Summit. Do you have a part number or description? I’ll add an on/off switch until I can put the temp switch on.


It might take a while before you get a reply from Emmanuel. He does show up here from time to time but not often. At least that is what I have noticed and I am on this board every day. He is also slow to respond to any emails you send him on the net but he does reply. In the past I have seen a new member to this site think they got scammed because they did not get an instant reply (I was involved in that one in a round about way). This is not the case with Emmanuel as he is a stand up guy from what I have seen. He is just slow.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:33 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
This is his website: http://www.farr-offroad.com/


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:49 am 
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Thanks, Emmanueal is great about returning my texts when I have questions. I asked here because I’m sure other guys would have the same question. His engineering on the conversion is top notch. I’m getting close to cranking it up and I can’t wait to hear it run that first time. I still have some wiring to do and I’m waiting on some custom radiator hose elbows. It’s getting close.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 8:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 287
Location: Rhode Island
dvharv wrote:
I’m sure other guys would have the same question.


Please keep us updated on your progress. If you hit any other road blocks or installation issues please discuss them. Like you said, I think this would be helpful to others installing these kits. The kit does not include everything obviously so what parts did you have to source yourself, where did you get them, recommendations?

Maybe post some pictures of your completed wiring setup? It seems this is a problem for many during install.

Project looks great so far and I bet that thing is going to rip!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 4:25 am 
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https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... cation=int


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 8:23 pm 
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Thanks Emmanuel, that’s exactly what I was looking for.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 8:38 pm 
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I have not had much time during the Holidays to work on my Odyssey. I have finished the radiator plumbing and am ready to start tackling the wiring. I swapped out the radiator from the kit for a Civic radiator with the forward inlet and outlet instead of the side. The only difference is the new radiator uses a 32 mm hose. You will need a 32 mm to 28 mm reducer in order to use the 28 mm connection to the Rotax. The Farr kit allows you to mount the radiator either inside or outside of the roll cage. I decided to go with the outside mounting to get more room over the Engine. I figure, if I ever roll the machine I will have more to worry about than a $60 radiator. I still have a little finish work on the front end kit. I need to make some extended brake lines and align the front end. It’s coming along


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 9:00 pm 
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Location: near NJ rider
Nice job!

Is the Rad rubber mounted? They will crack from vibration if mounted the wrong way.

The problem with having it outside is not losing the cost of the radiator, its the scolding hot fluid bath you take when you roll it. Not fun, I have a friend that had to get life flight because a hose popped off and was facing his back.

To me, the cage should not only protect the driver, but also protect everything needed to keep the car running, fuel, radiator, exhaust, etc.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:54 am 
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Location: Rhode Island
It is looking good indeed.

I have to agree with Bullnerd, the radiator should be within the cage. To keep it and you safe in the event of a rollover.

Additionally, the radiator looks like it should be flipped over so that the fan is on the outside or maybe you can just move the fan to the other side of the radiator. The fan should draw/pull air through the radiator, not push it though. If the fan was to draw the air how it is currently mounted, you would be dumping that hot air right on top of the air filters / Engine. It is best to disperse the air away from these components.

I don't see any air filters in your pictures so maybe you have a plan to duct the intake somewhere?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:29 pm 
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Ok guys, I thought about your suggestions and agree that the rad needs to be inside of the cage. I come from the motocross world and this is the first serious buggy I’ve built. I went back to the radiator supplied by Farr and I like how I was able to clean up the hose routing.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 11:56 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You appear to be a Honda guy :-) judging by the toys.
Very nice work. I like the rad inside too. Very easy to tip these things over -- trust me I know.
Also really like the rad supports. That's how a pro does it. Not weld crap to the down tube.
The things that jumps out at me are the rad, the supports, but more interesting to me right now is the seat. Tell us more please. Is it a seat cover ?? If so where did you get it ?? Did you get it reupholstered ?? Where ??


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 12:01 am 
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Location: near NJ rider
That looks way better.

Nice job.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 12:16 am 
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Location: East Peoria IL
Hey CO did you see the fuel cell?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 12:19 am 
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Oh yes, big Honda guy. The XR75 you see in one picture was under the Christmas tree for me in 1978. I was 9 years old and it was the best present ever. I still have it, it runs great and I take it for a ride just about every evening. We have 10 acres just north of Houston, TX and I still feel like that 9 year old kid when I’m on it.

chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsport seat cover They aren’t cheap, $185 US but they are made for the FL350 and come in blue or black. I think they only make a few at a time because I had to keep checking the web site for availability. My seat is structurally in great shape but has several tears. The guy I bought it from painted it with several coats of blue fabric paint. I looked all over for a replacement seat and could not find one. The seat cover looks great and is probably way cheaper than a NOS if there is even one out there.

I’m not sure why chucklenuts keeps getting posted when I edit this. It’s chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports.


http://www.chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com/Ho ... Seat-Cover


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 12:47 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
rmesser wrote:
Hey CO did you see the fuel cell?


Yes I did notice. I think I have seen it before but I don't remember where or which post.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 12:51 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
dvharv wrote:
I’m not sure why chucklenuts keeps getting posted when I edit this. It’s chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports.


http://www.chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com/Honda-FL350R-Odyssey/Safety/Seat-Cover


That's because he is not liked here by some. So the site auto corrects when you try to type it any other way. Here is another example: motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))
LOL.

Edit: I include myself in the list of don't like because he sells a crap intake that cost us an Engine. There is a post on it here somewhere. I don't really want to get into it as it makes me mad. In fairness I have not checked that site to see if he still sells it, but I bet money he does. Everyone told me here after I posted that the intake in question has been an issue for a long time yet he still sold one to my brother years later.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 1:02 am 
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Yeah, I figured something like that must be going on. I like the auto correct for motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). Drives me crazy when guys refer to an Engine as a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). These things are not electric!


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