Where did you buy the stator?

Did the stator cure your problem?

I'm awaiting a new pulsar trigger coil (Which I saw Honda still sells, so I bought a Honda OE part), and a new waterpump gasket. Also getting a spare / used rectifier soon as well.

Its going to be about a week until I know.

Whats funny is, if you look at this thread's post #1, I actually mentioned the machine was lacking top-end even before I purchased it. Perhaps fixing an actual electrical gremlin will unleash the beast! I hear these pilots when modified are supposed to pull wheelies? Well, mine sure don't right now.



Thanks for staying tuned in.

I received a rectifier which I bought used from ebay. It seems to be measuring exactly as my old rectifier. I'll keep it on hand to be sure but I may have wasted that purchase.

BTW the best way to test a rectifier I found a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LwDPHvzH90

Ahh. Finally got this FL400r back together enough after replacing the stator and pickup coil. I have to say and while I do love this FL400 - replacing the stator in these things is a major biotch! The only thing more difficult is re-doing the entire bottom end. Tomorrow if it don't rain I get to test raving the Engine a bit with the new stator on the trailer. With all that effort I really hope it solves the issue!

Looking forward to hearing how she rips now!!!!!

The new stator worked! Im able to hit over the previous limit pretty easily on the trailer now. Original CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), original rectifier still in. It was the stator!

Now that I have a properly acting ignition; its back to carb tuning. Amazing how one thing effects others. Having bad ignition made jetting a shot in the dark, and now its way wrong again with a proper ignition.

And.... Officially, this pilot can now pull wheelies from a stop! Confirmed by me and neighbors

That's awesome! Glad you got it running good.

No it doesnt! Not till theres actual video proof

Another horror novel from PO.com

Tell me about it. This pilot Engine was kind of a basket case. While now I've got a good running machine, I over-spent time and money in a lot of areas only to have a stock travel machine. I might have been able to get a long travel, maybe even with an Engine swap for the amount of trouble and money this thing has been.

I think 99% of folks would have given up.

In hindsight, I hope I can get a few years with one more bore out of this Engine. Hope I should be good for the next 200 hours I guess.

Let this thread be an encyclopedia for others.

OK Folks. This should be the last post for this Pilot for now! I was able to dial-in the carburetor completely and now this machine is an absolute screaming beast!

To read how I finalized the tune, check out my Wideband tuning thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18191

Keihin PWK39 carb off a KTM

Pilot jet: 42
Air screw: 1.25
Throttle slide: #7
Jet Needle: EEF
Clip position: Middle (May briefly try +1 richer next time)
Main jet: 170

With this setup, the machine pulls wheelies on asphalt, pulls like a freight train out of corners and up hills, and reaches 7800 rpm on a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) straight. EGT never goes over 1200 and runs more like 1050 at WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

One of the nice things which I don't mind and really like about this setup is - the pilot circuit is still just a whee tad bit on the rich side. I can tell by the way the Engine ever so slightly loads up on a long down-hill deceleration. After 10 seconds of coasting downhill, it takes a slightly extra blip of the throttle to clear the minute amount of loaded up fuel from the closed throttle circuits. I like this. REALLY like it in fact. On throttle shut its injesting more fuel than needed which is perfect when coming off a high throttle run. Just what the Engine needs to cool itself down.

Its been over a year since I posted about this pilot. Its been a very reliable machine to tell you the truth. The main issues I've had over the past year were rear brake pads, damaged front rims (Replaced with OMF beadlocks), axle boots, and the top O-Rings in the head melted and started to spray coolant from next to the spark plug. It got pretty hot but never ran dry. Also didn't damage anything. Survived.

On the O-Rings in the head, It actually took me two times to fix them. I first replaced the rubber O-Rings with some Nitrile ones, but they didn't withstand the heat either. First time out and they started to weep. I went with Viton O-Rings and that did the trick. Viton has a much higher heat rating.

While I did the O-Rings so many times, I got tired of buying Honda head gaskets and so I went with Cometic gaskets and am currently running a 1.5mm head gasket, which increased my squish relief substantially. The machine now has 165psi of compression and the squish is at about 70 thousands.

Still, the machine hauls butt! Beats Rzr900s. I figure next time I pull the head I'll drop in a thinner 1.2mm Cometic gasket.

The occasional axle boot has needed to be replaced. I'm getting good at doing those actually.


Now on the the biggest need. The bottom transmission seals are starting to leak pretty good. About 4 drops per day in fact. I can see the left one behind the brake rotor is the worst. Honda discontinued the OEM Oil seals and seems I cant find left nor right Honda oil seals. I'm able to find aftermarket ones of the exact size; but I don't think they'll have the metal outer ring (Dust covers?) Next I'll need to tackle removing those axle stubs. I cant hardly wait :( Daily PB blaster to the rescue until I get ready!

Here is a new seal threebond 1211 outside and grease inside. Awaiting a 47mm socket to complete removal of the left side next; which is the one badly leaking. This right side's old oil seal was actually installed backward with the spring on the outside! The inner shaft splines look good. There was the expected muddy goo crud rust but the axles cage out with a simple puller.