meegusmaster,
Nice clean install, looks great! I just got my power steering kit from Methodical last week and have started working on installing it. Would you mind posting a photo of where you weld the support bracket to the frame cross member? Did you make a bracket to mount the electrical box?

Simple bracket, will get you a pic. Also I may have missed it but are you going to install a rear suspension kit? If you may want to install 2 reinforcement braces on the rear of the frame, Farr told me to do this on my builds. Can get you pics if needed.

Thank you!

I am going to be converting the rear suspension to long travel but I am not using a Farr kit for it. I wouldn't mind seeing the braces as well. Anything to strengthen the frame would be worthwhile in my opinion.

The extra bracing

I could not get a good picture of the bracket once its installed but here you get the idea, the bracket is welded to the steering column and the the holes are drilled to match the mounting holes on the ECM. One pic of it installed

The upper mount, now I mocked it up before welding it i place thought it was all good until I found a 1/4 inch gap at the bottom of the shaft, the gap needs to be zero or the load of the steering is not where it was intended which is low, so rather than grind it off I just added a bushing to take up the slack. One other thing I did different was there are two locking collars that keep everything stable and two locking screws, the screws were to be seated lightly on the splines but I made a divot into the spline carefully so they now locked tight to the splines, still able to move the shaft up the splines.

Very nice!

I’ll be getting mine installed this weekend and will be sure to post some photos. That is definitely a weak point in the frame where you have the braced tubes installed. I already have taken this into account on all my builds. I use large gussets to strengthen the frame in those locations.

Thanks again!

have you read up on deleting oil injection, theres lots of info on dootalk about, what lines need to be connected, and filling the bottom of Engine so that the water pump bearing has oil. wouldn't hurt to read up on some of it

Can you post a link?

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php ... try1366623
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/67 ... op/page-63
scroll down to post 937
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php ... l=oil+pump

these are all basically the same, just thought I would post all three for you

Thank you I'll give them a read.

I got my power steering kit installed today. Great work as always by Methodical! This build would not have been as good as it is going to be without his help and others here on the forum. Many thanks!!!

I welded a piece of angle iron to what is left of the stock column to mount the control box as meegusmaster had suggested. Fits perfect in that location.

nice..wish that was going on my machine

Looks awesome. So you purchased a kit from methodical? Please give some details. Did you have cut the steering shaft, did the kit have instructions? Did you send your old parts back to him for more kits to be made? I assume you welded the plate to the cross bar?

Thank you!

I did purchase the kit from methodical and he provided me instructions for the installation.

He cuts the steering column and steering shaft and they are reused. Of the original steering column, only a portion of the bottom is used, where it attaches to the frame. The front of the column where the ignition & pull choke reside is returned to you with the kit. You then trim it out around the new power steering motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). It is no longer a supporting member of the steering at that point, It just floats there and servers the same purpose. The upper and lower sections of the steering shaft are also reused. I have only sent him the parts to complete this power steering setup but I hope to one day send him my pilot column to convert.

I welded the metal bracket to the frame cross member. the bracket is included in the kit and lined up perfect with the frame. The larger section holding the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is aluminum. I also welded a bracket to support the electrical controller box thing.

Thanks for the photos and details.

Is it rude to ask what the kit cost? Is he selling them to anyone? And I'm not sure if he makes a kit for the FL400?

Is is not a rude question at all. I feel the cost for methodical to make the kit was very reasonable. Shoot him a message on here and I am sure that he would be willing to give you a price and a lead time for availability.

I purchased a universal power steering kit on ebay for $375 and probably $75 in misc parts used for the kit. The remainder was shipping and labor

that's a good price for the ps kit..I was looking the other day and couldn't find one for under $500

I know!

It was a buy it now listing with an option to make an offer. I offered them the $375 and they accepted it. I tried to find the listing to share it here but it is gone...

So I have got started on then next big part of this build. Long Travel Rear suspension with CV axles.

I have been interested in attempting to build a long travel rear end after seeing others attempt and complete the builds. All doing it a bit differently but for the same end goal. I was hesitant at first because I do not have any machining tools. I knew that I would have to rely on a local machine shop for custom pieces. Also, I already had everything to bolt it up and ride it with the OEM suspension assembly with new shocks and all.

The first thing I did to make my life a little bit easier was purchased a Farr-Offroad gear box that has his special output shaft installed. This would allow me to use common Polaris CV axles. I started thinking further on this and ran into a few snags. First was the knuckle and hub assembly. Farr makes his own, sure I could use the polaris setup, probably the easiest solution. With the Farr setup the rear disc brakes get relocated to the rear hubs, two disc brakes in the rear. Better stopping power, great but now I would also have to use a larger rim... still not a big deal. The last thing with this is that the axles are not the same length. With the new output shaft, it offsets your distance to each rear hub, because the oem brake hub rotor is now gone. I would have to have one of the CV axles machined shorter.



The second thing I did was purchased a set of CV axles from site member Romain french. The axles he used were originally from a Citroën, but common 2cv axles. He had already converted them like Methodical had done. Cutting the inner most oem axle yoke and welding it to the CV cup. They use these parts for kart-cross setups in Europe. With this setup the rear end was to wide for my linking and then I was back at shortening the axles. Buying parts from Europe and having them shipped over.

He gave me a few useful links as well.

https://www.planet-kartcross.com/Moyeux ... 5QeSz5wri0

https://crosscar.go-gti.com/





The last thing I did was purchased a special output shaft from Methodical. It was originally made by site member jknarfal. Same one that he has installed on his LT build = viewtopic.php?t=14265 . This output shaft uses the same OEM rear brake caliper. It also keeps the output shaft centered, allowing the axles to remain the same lengths. Along with the output shaft I purchased axles, shocks, knuckles, hubs, and other misc parts to complete the build or get me pretty close.

I have started to move forward with this setup for the rear. I recently got the output shaft installed in my gearbox and test fit in the chassis. Supplied with the output shaft was a new disc brake hub. I pressed studs into it using CO's "add-vise" and installed a Buell 1125 rotor. The output shaft uses the same nut as the FL350 crank to mount the new hub.

I like that rear set up, you get to keep the e-brake, one thing I miss with my Farr rear suspension, sacrifice the e-brake for 4 wheel disc.

You should be able to have an e-brake with a lever lock located on your brake handle.
Similar to the pic below.
It's just a spring loaded clip that prevents the handle from returning.
I bet we could make something to fit a Pilot or oddy.

Edit: We could make something really hick town like a small block that fits in the gap and then use a fishing leader to tie it to the steering wheel. Pull the brake handle and stuff it in the hole ----- PRESTO ---- E-brake.
Edit again: It don't have to be metal or aluminum. It should be UHMW.
Just my opinions.

Update