I have chosen to go with a 3-link suspension setup. These are the parts that I decided to use for the rear end.

Parts
2011-13 Ranger 500 Front Axles = Polaris # 1332690
RZR 900 XP Knuckle = Polaris # LH 5137180 RH 5137181
RZR 900 XP Bearing = Polaris # 3514699
RZR 900 XP Retaining Ring = Polaris # 7710440
RZR 900 XP Axle Outboard CV = Polaris # 2204365

Heims
Trailing Arm (2) = ¾”
Rear Lateral Links (8) = ½”

Wheel
ITP 1028584403 A-6 Pro Series Wheel - 10x8 - 3+5 Offset - 4/156

For me to get these parts to all work together I took my Ranger 500 axles and removed the outboard CV. In its place, I then installed the ouboard CV from a RZR 900 XP. These parts can be purchased without buying a entire axle and there are aftermarket manufactures.

For the knuckles, I drilled out the heim mounting bolt holes to 1/2" from 10mm to accommodate the heims I will be using.

The only difference between the 2 outboard cv was that the RZR used a slightly larger retaining clip. It did not fit in the ranger axle. I used new ranger clips. It held tight and felt strong.

Next up was the trailing arms and the rear link mounting locations.

Wow Curtis! Really nice!

that's Badass, congrats. I did a lot of digging before I decided to emulate methodical's 5 link. I had looked at Farr's 3 link design and thought "how could I do this with Polaris 900xp parts?" and your doing exactly what I wanted to do.
Pic of Polaris 900xp rear:

Thanks guys!

I am using many 900xp parts and it helps make this type of conversion that much easier. I will be using the dual rate rear shocks as well & I installed new springs on them. I also got some works shocks for up front, just like the ones I used on my last build but, I got triple rate this time. I am also converting the front end to pilot plastics. Foot tub & Fenders. Next up is making the trailing arms

Love what you’ve been up to. Keep it going.

Is that 670 a 2 or 4 stroke?

2 Stroke twin cylinder rated at about 120hp

Well that thing is gonna rip for sure and great work on the project.Is there a 4 stroke people are putting in Pilots? I see Farr is saying new kits come with 600HO,I'm assuming those 2 stroke also?

Thanks!

I know of a pilot with a 07 yamaha phazer GT4 4 stroke and the driven clutch was also swapped. It was a really nice build.

The 600 HO is a 2 stroke. That is a good Engine and I believe it makes the same power as mine.

Super nice work Curtis! Liking where this is going!

Just a hint for setting up your three link, as a 3 link setup moves through its stroke the rear radius arms cross over each other which can induce a lot of camber so you have to play with the mounting points. I like to set the frame up on stands and make a temporary jig to hold the wheel assembly in place at full droop and go from there, when I did the 350 my frame mounts were fixed so I had to play with the angle that the radius arms were attached to my swingarm, with the mounting points offset on the 900xp parts it will be the frame mounts that will have to be adjusted, you may already know this just trying to be helpful, keep up the good work

I appreciate any and all help. I haven't done much work on this since my last post. I agree with the radius arm mounting points. I tried to leave extra room where they will mount to the frame, so I can adjust as necessary and then trim any excess after. I also have everything to make the jig. I'm hoping to make some progress on this in the coming weeks.

Glad to see you back on the forum & I like what you have been working on!

Time to resurrect this thread.

Here is a little teaser but I’ll post more this week. Got the rear all final welded and I am very pleased with the setup. I still need to finish my tie rods and slightly modify the gas tank.

Good golly Curtis... you possess some serious skills. Looks great and I love the garage as it appears to be nearly overflowing with buggies.

Such nice work Curtis!

Sure wish I could have managed some time to meet you when were on base. It was a crazy time. We'll be back for Kate's fiance's graduation though. He's on the same Navy path as she is just finishing his schooling before entering.

Thank you both for your kind words. I wish I could take full credit but if it was not for guys like Methodical, emmanuel, and jknarfal this buggy would not be a reality for me. Also, socalgii and scpilot66 have been a huge help with sourcing parts. Cheers to them!

Terry,
I figured that it would be a busy time for you and I am glad that you spent it with your daughter and family. Not excuses for the son-in-law though! LOL

Go Oddy,
The garage is just about at maximum buggy capacity. I think we might be the only 2 happy about it. I'll be around the next 2 weekends if you want to come down. Going to be heading to Jericho in NH the weekend after the 4th (July). I'll probably head up there mid-week. Trying to get a few guys up there with oddy/pilots, should be a good time.

The weekend of 11 and 12th. I’d be up for that.
I’d loved to come down, let me check with our family plan/schedule. Thanks for the invite.

How much travel did you gain.
Instead of modifying your gas tank. Could you just make a custom upper arm to go around the tank. Not sure if that if it would be as strong though. Might be a bad idea lol.

Go Oddy,
Yes that is the weekend. No problem! I hope you can make it & wish it could have been sooner.

Fully,
I have 10" of wheel travel, so I gained 4". The purpose of this conversion was for strength the CV axles vs the u-joints. I did not consider making a custom rear link... hmm. I don't see why it wouldn't work because that is what they do to the UTVs on high clearance arms. Not sure if i will go that route but we'll see.

Awesome job, goes to show what a guy can do in his garage, its going to be a fun ride with the updated suspension and extra hp

is it any wider now. this is something that I might consider doing one day..I already have the front

Thanks Emmanuel! I’m excited to get this project finished up and get some ride time on it.

Fully,
It’s about the same width as stock width, I believe 58”. I’ll get you a good measurement when I reassemble it.

Here are some photos of the work I did on the frame including the trailing arm mounts, upper shock hoops/mounts, and rear link mounts. For the trailing arm forward mounts at the frame I a 90 tube to brace a 1/2 steel triangle. The piece is drilled with a 3/4 hole where the forward heim will mount to. I made these pieces identical on each side to help keep everything symmetrical. With this design I feel that the link will be braced well and strong. If you notice the red tab that is also welded on the inside of frame, that is a mount for the nerf bars.

The rear hoops are an easy design but there are a few things to consider. The height of the hoop/the mounting tabs will play a roll in your ride height. I added the bulk of the weight in in the rear of the buggy to set this up (Engine). I also had weighted the buggy to simulate my own weight in it. Also, take note that the buggy will squat under load. I adjusted the preload in the shock at a few different settings to see how this would adjust the ride height of the buggy. At ride height on its own weight the shock will compress 1/3 of it’s used stroke. Under load it should be close to mid stroke. I cross braced the hoops for additional support & verified clearance for radiator and air filters.

For the rear link mounts, I used 3/8 plate one each side and braced the bottom with a piece of angle iron. This is where welded the mounts for the rear links. Again, I made them both symmetrical. I made these so that they would not interfere with the mounting/installation of the rear brake caliper. It was a lot of tacking/testing to get the heim mounts just right and keep good camber through the stroke of the rear. The RZR knuckles have offset mounting points for the heims and I simulated that at the frame. I was able to trim a little bit off the bottom when all was said and done. I will likely brace/cap off the bottom as I fear that will be a bad spot to catch a rock or something.

The only thing to get the rear links right is the correct length. Note, they are also offset at the RZR knuckle. The lower link is longer that the top. I have almost no plunge in the cv axle.

The trailing arms… The hardest part in my opinion. Due to this being a 3 link setup it is very important that when you weld the rear arm to the knuckle mounting point, you need to set the toe just right. There is limited to no adjustment of the toe after you make this weld. This was also a lot of tacking/testing for me. I set the toe at zero & I even made a jig to help get it just right. The toe only moves a degree or two throughout the stroke.