Welcome new guy.
Oh my !!
I see a trailer queen there.
That machine appears to not have been abused.
I see: A front bumper that is not damaged so that's the first clue. I also see original front bumper end caps. The stop switch on steering wheel, wrist restraints, glass on lights and seat belts are not sun faded so that tells me it was kept indoors most of its life. The Honda decals on the main bar are not rubbed of on either side so that tells me not much action on it. Has the angled fin cylinder head so this is a post recall Engine. Look for an "X" stamped into the gearbox next to the fill cap and that will tell you if it is a post recall transmission. Look for an stamped at the end of the serial number to indicate
Engine recall was done, but it has the angle head so I am sure it is there. I see bolts on battery box and else where that are not rusted so again this indicates a trailer queen kept indoors. Top cage and roof lid is not bent so this machine has not been rolled. Mirrors are not broken so another indication it was not rolled. It has no shock savers so this seller was not from this site. I see in a photo you posted in another thread of your mini bike that the oddy front wheels are cambered. That tells me the J arm bushings are shot. You can tell by jacking it up and grabbing the top and bottom of wheel and pull/push the top of wheel in and out. If you got a lot of play there then the bushings are toast -- it's #17 below.
Don't even start this thing again until you have done the things on the check list below.
The number one thing is to test the fuel flow on that original pump. You will blow an Engine.
The other thing I must warn you about is FUEL OCTANE. It is a contentious issue here. There are many threads on blown engines. I personally (as well as 50% of the people here) run avgas or race gas or a mix of avgas and pump fuel. The oddy Engine is behind a seat and gets limited air flow. This elevates the intake charge temperature as well as the Engine and it detonates pump fuel. Your on your own pal if you don't heed this warning.
Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one. 14) Must build shock savers.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifoldAnd here:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1746817) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.
Edit: DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it is just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow yours you're done. It's over because you can't get these parts anymore.
You can get a free pdf manual here:
https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/By the way nice oddy. Check it over closely and drive it. What good is a trailer queen ??