Thanks. My ridiculous level of OCD is some days a curse.

HI Terry, we've chatted on GJ in the past, big fan of your wood working bench.

I'm a little different when it comes to these buggies, I say ride that bitch!

Hey Bull! What's up? It needs a little love...and a few dollars thrown at it. Then we're gonna rip.

Looks good Terry! Keep us posted on the progress!

Thanks Malcolm! Will do. BTW..I've enjoyed your YouTube stuff.

nice looking Oddy. congrats.

Thanks!

Another night of disassembly nets more questions than answers. Could use some suggestions on these items.

1. Intake boot is not cracked. Seems sound overall but it obviously hard. Not sure if I should reuse or bite the bullet and get the one on Ebay? Are there other options? See the photo. The reed cage and the reeds seem ok. Everything was nasty. The air box was disconnected from the boot. No telling how long it's been that way.

2. The vacuum line from the case to the fuel pump is much too hard to reuse. Does it need to be the same type of hose with the braid on it or can I just use normal vacuum hose? If I need the braided hose, where do I source it?

3. Exhaust gasket 18352-961-010 does not appear to be available any where. Is there a source or do I just use high temp sealer and call it good?

4. Some of the slippers on the driven pulley are gone. I see the sets of slippers at oddatv.com. I read the disassembly procedure in the manual. No clue on the special tools. Also no clue if I'm actually capable of getting it apart and back together again. Is there a video or some more instruction somewhere? Is there a plan B to this?

5. One of the weight arms was stuck on the roller in the drive pulley. I was able to free it and the pulley opened up all the way. That entire unit is totally dry. Is there a lubrication procedure? I see nothing in the manual about it.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

See no cracks of any kind but obviously it's pretty hard.



Stuck arm...



Unstuck arm...



General pics just in case someone sees something wrong that I'm too ignorant to know.







On the bright side, my buddy was over tonight. We had a good time working and talking. He got the car rebuilt. The tank is nice and clean on the inside. I have a bunch of stuff ordered. Wheel bearings and seals, J arm bushings, bearings and seals for the rear axles, master cyl. rebuild kit, new fuel pump. Other assorted odds and ends. I got the new fuel lines, vacuum lines and carb vent lines. New Dayco belt was on the big brown truck today. Like an idiot I did not get the compression checked before we started disassembly but I'm pretty confident that it's at least acceptable. Still need to gather the pieces for the leak down test.

So far I only kind of sort of wish I had never seen the thing.

1) If no cracks you can still use it but if you got money I would try to see if oddatv still has any danifolds left.
2) You don't need hose that is braided on the outside like the original. You DO want to make sure that any hose that you use is braided. Don't use that vacuum hose with not braiding in it.
3) Exhaust gasket: You can try using this Mr.Gasket stuff: https://www.holley.com/products/gaskets ... parts/5961
You should be able to get it at Autozone or some other auto parts place.
4) The hardest part will be getting the driven off of the transmission shaft. Most are seized on after all these years and apparently it's a job to get it off. I don't fully remember how I did my spare driven clutch but you don't need special tools. You do need a way of holding the spider down so that when you remove the snap ring, the spider don't jump up and smash your teeth out. Once the snap ring is off you should be able to hold it down and remove the clamps. You also need to have the bottom shiv clamped to the table so it don't try to spin as you are doing this job. I took mine apart to try to clock it but if I remember right there is only one hole for the spring on the oddy.
5) Looking at the picture of that driver, it needs to be taken apart and checked. You can see by the belt rub marks that the clutch was not fully shifting. The roller looks rusted as well so now it might have a flat spot on it. As for lubing, what you do is use comet lube or dry graphite to lube the sleeve where the two shivs slide together.
6) Compression test: You can still do a compression test. Just screw it in the plug hole and yank the pull start or better yet hook up the battery. REMOVE ALL THE RAGS. You don't need the pipe or carb on it but you DO NEED THE REEDS installed. Make sure the vacuum hose or the port is blocked as well or you won't get a good reading.
7) In my opinion, you have gone this far so yank the Engine and strip it. Start over. Check everything.

Hope this helps.

Looking good!! I believe the CR250 intake boot will work and is a lot cheaper than the NOS fl350 one will be. CO makes them also which I am extremely curious about! The exhaust gasket could prolly be done with sealer, it’s realky just a cardboard feeling o ring lol. Comment makes a lubricant for the clutches but honestly if you’re going to ride this then just replace the clutch with a 94c and be done. Reeds are cheap, I’d prolly throw pro carbons in and call if a day. Also since you are this far see if you can figure out if your base gasket it’s paper or metal. If it’s paper then pull the cylinder and replace that before it causes problems. This is the pulse line I use, closest to original I can find, got it from eBay.

The CR250 intake boot won't work.
It's "angled" and not "offset" like the oddy one is.

I've always just used regular fuel hose for the pulse line

I think I've progressed right up to I wish I'd never seen it now.

Cold compression is 90 lbs. I'm assuming that's not good.

Nope your ded --- rebuild

I figured as much. You got one of those nice lists of where to start on a rebuild?

I tried to tell you to just ride it!

I don't have a list for the Engine, just the general one that I posted on your first page here.
Just make sure you use the metal base gasket under the cylinder. Anything else blows out.
Also if it still has the original Honda head gasket then you peel it apart and use the thinnest piece when you put your Engine back together. It bumps your compression a bit.
It's not as bad as you think it is because this thing was running when you bought it, so its not like you are trying to recover from an explosion.
Did you do a pressure check on that Engine yet ?? DO NOT RIP IT APART UNTIL YOU DO. This is a golden opportunity to see if your seals on the crank are still good. On a two stroke you NEVER take it apart until you do that pressure check, for the reason stated above.
In my opinion here, I think all you have to do is hone the cylinder, buy a new set of rings and buff up the piston skirt if it is scarred up a bit on the exhaust side. If it still has the original Art piston then you may be done. Those rings are very rare. Possibly that fagbook guy has some if you need Art rings.

This is a classic case of any freakin' thing I buy. Every day it's the , "well since we are this far" conversation. lol....

I have not pressure tested it but will. As per my previous post, since we are this far... I'll likely just pull everything out so I can make sure there are no further issues. Guess i's a chance to really get to know the machine.

Yeah that's right.
Many new owners can't grasp that concept.

One way to tell if the double lip seal on the crank is shot is by looking at the counter balancer oil.
If it's black and not clear then you know it has been contaminated by two stroke oil that has slipped by a shot crank seal. Then you can already start sourcing that part.
That's not always the reason as I found out just recently. On one of my engines the paper gasket had an .011" leak between the crankcase and the counter balancer chamber. It contaminated the oil and I thought the double lip seal was shot. It wasn't.
But at the end of the day if the oil is black you got a problem.

Also do the vent mod since you are now tearing it apart.

The best vent mod fitting:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606

Vent mod thread:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification

I checked the balance oil last night and it is clean. I ordered the Ebay fitting to replace the dipstick to do the mod. I got a small breather filter from Amazon.

Bottom line is that if I don't just do it all with it this far apart already I will forever look at it and wish I had.

That's the fitting I ordered. Got this little filter because I liked it. Will use some of that braided fuel line and fab a bracket to hold the little filter behind the seat.

That's very unique.
Everyone of us has a closed system and we use a bellows.
The only issue I see with your idea is that you may get fine sand in the system if that filter is suspect and you ride in the desert dunes.
Not sure how I feel on this idea.
Here is what all of us use here: differential bellows from a 2007 Can Am 500CC Outlander part number 705400352 or Polaris Phoenix 0454105 or Arctic Cat 1402-620.
Basically the only difference is the durometer of the rubber. I like the Can-Am.