Last year I was reading some of my first threads I posted on this site.
It's almost embarrassing how little I knew. The term clueless comes to mind.
We all learn and that's why they say education is expensive. It's true. I blew a lot of engines.
When I read these threads on this site about Engine poofkabooms I honestly believe 100% of them are caused by shytee gas, shytee fuel pumps or a crank seal. NOT JETTING.
When you said you had a miss at full throttle it just screamed ''FUEL''. I now know what a single backfire or miss at fuel throttle means. I also know what a strong bottom end and a dead spot at mid range and full throttle means. I am edumacated now.
CO

Yep,there’s a learning curve and I’m in the middle of the turn

2 trips ago my pilot had a couple hiccups at high throttle. 1st time put me on alert, and 2nd time I safely limped it home.

Would only pump 3oz.

I syphoned the tank and cleaned my filter. A lot of crap came out of both - especially the feed line between the tank and filter. Its like some stuff stuck in that lower fuel line.

Started pumping 4.5oz.


Pulled the head - no damage to report.

This past weekend ran absolutely great.


CO - please report back on those electric Quantum pumps. I may buy two of them myself.

Hadn’t got back till this tonight,you convinced me to drain my tank also.I drained it into a bucket,there was a good bit of sediment in bottom of bucket.Looked inside of tank with flashlight and saw what looked like big flakes and small flakes of black paint.Was able to fit nozzle of wet dry vac in tank and vacuum everything out

Hey Red don't forget to reverse flush both the main and reserve pick up tubes via the fuel tap housing.

How would I go about that?

Take the fuel line off at the filter,keep it up and spray some carb cleaner in it so that gravity takes it down into the fuel switch/tap and down into the pickup tubes and screen at bottom in tank.
Let it sit for a while to work on the screen end crap.Maybe even do it straight into/thru the switch/tap? It's been too long since I've seen or done a Pilot OEM tank,because my 2 current Pilots-AC550Pilot and FL800Pilot both have custom alu tanks.
Do the same for both Main and Res switch settings,then with an air compressor duster gun shoot some blasting air thru it to blow out the screens at the tube pickup ends.
Then clean out tank again and see what came of it.
No point in cleaning everything after the tank and main filter IF the pickup tube screens are blocked?
Good luck.

OK thanks!

I am so frustrated right now, I’m getting tired of working on this buggy. I got another fuel pump in, spent four or five hours out in this hot Texas sun sweating my balls off working on it and got nowhere.
I took bugeyes suggestion and cleaned tank some more and sprayed carb cleaner into the petcock to flush it,after cleaning tank
I took the gas line off the carb and did test and it pumped 4 ounces in 10 seconds by starter,which CO says Should be 4 1/2 ounces but I saw on another thread somebody say it could be half of that since buggy is not running and you’re just cranking the starter.But taking the fuel line off at the T as the manual suggest I only got 2 ounces.I had already put the 40mm chinese pwk Back on it because with my old carb was not working right.I thought I would ride buggy anyway to see if it ran any better,I let buggy warm up and then drove it down the street a couple of times but it was still missing.188 main jet in it now.
Socalgii sold me the fuel pump.He’s Going to do a test on his personal pilot and see if his fuel pump is pumping like it is supposed to. If it is, he’s going to send me that one and have me try it and see if I get the same results.In the meantime I have bought another fuel filter I’m going to try just in case the fuel filter room has something to do with it.Im going To try this filter I bought off eBay that goes to an old Honda Civic, the closest thing I could find to a pilot filter.

Hey red I found a way to tell if the fuel pump is shot.
Not sure what others think but what I did with my pumps was to blow into each pump port.
Each port has a check valve in it except for the vacuum one.
Blow into the in side of the pump and it should free flow. Now blow into the outlet side as hard as you can. If air comes out of the inlet port OR the vacuum port then the pump is shot.
Now do the same for the vacuum port. Blow as hard as you can and NO air should pass.
I did this test on three crap pumps laying here on my bench and they all failed.
Only one failed the vacuum port test. The other two failed the other test.
CO

Also the ignition miss COULD be a broken sparkplug lead.
I just ran into that this week. You should ohm your high tension lead to the plug.
Just my opinions.
CO

Edit: You just said you are SO frustrated with working on your buggy. Well how would you like to have 4 new out of the box Chinese pumps and 2 new out of the box Japanese pumps fail the flow test ??
Then you get mad and buy 3 electric pumps and one fails on a ride and blows the Engine ??
Yup I am working on it as we speak. Welcome to oddy's. That's why I laugh at new guys who show up here and think they can just fluff and buff it a bit and go riding LOL.
CO

Edit again: You need 4.5 oz in 10 sec APPROX using the starter.
If you got 4 oz you're probably good. Any less than 4 oz I would say NO.
CO

Test your fuel pump same way as a Leak down motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) test.
If you have a Mityvac or similar,just attach Mity to the Vac port and add about 5-6psi,should hold for 5 mins if all ok?
If not then check for diaphragm for defects holes etc.

I just realised I had a spare SKI-DOO800 Mikuni vac pump that I wanted to try a test on.It feeds 2 large size flatsides for the 800DOO.
Lucky I found it,was still in some plastic tubs that Ak had sent me in a series that shipped a complete 800cc conversion set for the Drakart years ago.
I hooked up the vacuum line for mouth blow/suck test and ran the pickup from a jar of Amsoil premix,then return back into the fuel container.
My first hard blow thru the pulse line had a small half ant's dick size stream of air onto my cheek,checked the pump cover and it is vented.
SO...does the Pilot's have a vent hole on the diaphragm alu body cover? If so then my first statement is wrong.
But I did get the pump to kinda work,but I don't have strong Louis Armstrong "chipmunk" cheeks.
Maybe the Pilot's might work being a smaller size demand?

Lol,yeah I guess you have me beat in the frustration department.
Back to fuel pump,yes pump did 4oz from gas line to carb,but failed the test miserably by the way the pilot manual says to do the test,so what do you do? And to complicate things further,my other pump pumped 4oz the way the manual says but only 2 or 3 ounces from gas line to carb,so...?

Edit:Let my old pump sit in ultrasonic full of gas hoping it would clean it and make it work better but that made it worse

Edit: With all the spamming the thread I started about this pump has probably been lost in the shuffle.What about this pump? Looks like pilot pump,not exactly the same size but very close,made for 17-25 hp lawnmower engines

CNCMOTOK 808656 Fuel Pump Replaces Upgrade Aluminum Alloy to Prevent Oil Leakage for 691034/808281/692313/557033 Engine Lawn Mower Tractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ44LDX/re ... tDb8T48KWC

If it puts out the 4.5 in 10 "APPROX" you're good.
Any less than 4 oz I say no.
CO

In what are you referring to? That pump on Amazon?

In that pic above about the pump you want to buy.
CO

Ok gotcha
For 14 bucks shipped I’m willing to take the chance and see if it works.
I tried the blow on fuel pump trick on my old pump,when blowing on intake a little gas came out other side,But after the gas came out of it when I blew on it I could not feel any air coming out of the outtake or vent,or when blowing on outtake or vent i do not feel and air.
Also Socalgii said pump on his pilot is only putting out 3 ounces from the T but he’s not gonna worry about it,he thinks it’s fine

Edit:I can blow air through pump intake if I use airhose but not my mouth for whatever that’s worth

Didnt feel like jacking with pilot that much yesterday.I took spark plug wire off and trimmed it back at the boot,but havent rode it to see if it did anything.I hooked up amazon pump the way stock would mount but it didnt pump anything,there is no arrows on it to show direction but it must need to go the other way,and to go the other way the pulse line wasn't long enough and I didnt feel like jacking with it.
Also after doing that reverse flush that bugeye suggested my petcock is screwed up.After I let carb cleaner sit in hose hooked up to petcock,when I went to turn petcock it was harder to turn then normal,and now it leaks that is to say when its in the off position gas still comes out,not freeflowing like it does when it's on but it's enough that when I'm jacking with pumps pulling them off and on I have gas still coming out and getting everywhere,so I guess I have to buy another petcock now

Consider ditching your pet MUTT for a much cleaner fueling solution. Run your supply straight off the reserve, cap the 'on' line, and put a nice new high-flow filter in-line LOW in the system - like 6" or less from the bottom of the tank.

Just some suggestions here:
1) Sparkplug lead: Just cutting the wire back means nothing. The one I had issues with, the break in the wire was way back and by the time I found it the lead was to short. You need to ohm the wire.
2) New fuel pump with no arrows: Did you try to swap the hoses ?? I know you are not that dumb but just making sure .
3) Leaking petcock: Cleaning it with carb cleaner probably flushed out all the crap that prevented it from leaking in the first place. I bet money your pick up lines are corroded as hell.
4) Just my opinion on all these pumps -- I do not trust your fuel tank and pick up lines. I would hook up each pump to your vacuum line one at a time and then pick up fuel with a new line right from a Jerry can. Run the pressure line back to the Jerry can. This will give you a true flow of your pumps and will verify if they even work. Then you know for sure if your lines are crap or if there was an issue with your fuel T and filter.
It bypasses everything.
Just my opinions.
CO

Edit: If worse comes to worse and you can't get a new fuel petcock then you put in a block off plate and drill out the drain plug and pull fuel from there. ALL my machines are like that now. You could probably solder a line to a block off plate and stick it in the tank if you wanted to do that. Problem there is that you got to drill out one of the old lines that is soldered in place and this drilling is a fire hazard.
CO

Once I drained the gas and vacuumed everything out I thought my tank looked pretty good inside,and gas flows out of petcock pretty good,but testing the pumps like you said is not a bad idea.

Maybe I am that dumb because I don’t know what you’re talking about when you say swapping the hoses? That new pump has to be turned around backwards to try and hook it up and pulse line hose wasn’t long enough and I didn’t have another hose to change it with and I didn’t feel like jacking with it.

I for sure am dumb when it comes to ohms,I have a multimeter but don’t know how to use it.If you can tell me where to put the settings and attach the leads then I will do it.
Thanks

Lets take these one at a time:
1) In the first pic of that pump (with the red arrow) I see a "P" stamped in the housing. That's obviously the pulse line port. The other two ports obviously go to tank and carb. If you weren't getting fuel how do you know you had the hoses hooked up correct ?? That's what I meant by swapping hoses. Not sure if we were talking on the same page earlier.
My dad and I were always famous for arguing and then finding out we were talking about different ends of the race car.
2) Multi meter: I am NO ELECTRON MECHANIC but I do some what know how to use this thing.
In the pic of your meter you want to set it to the area with the Egyptian hieroglyphic in the bottom left corner. That's the ohm scale. Yours has 4 different settings. Just pick one. Also leave your wires on your meter hooked the way you got it there. What you do is put any lead (the red one or black one) inside the sparkplug boot. The other wire gets hooked to each terminal on the coil. What you are looking for is the needle on the meter to move. It don't matter what it shows as long as it moves. Yours is a digital meter so it has to show over zero. If you get no reading try another scale of the 4 you have in that ohm box. If you get NO reading take the two leads and touch them together to see if your meter shows something. This is to verify your meter aint shot. If your meter is good and you got no reading then you have a break in the high tension lead.
Also wiggle the high tension lead around to see if you suddenly get no reading. This would also indicate you got a broken wire. NOTE: make sure it wasn't your lead that came loose and lost connection.
See my pics below of my cheap meter. Either meter will work for us.
You can see how I have it hooked up and you can see the needle in the middle of the scale. It has moved so that coil is good. It is showing resistance which is what we want. If it shows nothing on the scale then there is a problem.
CO

Lets take these one at a time:
1) In the first pic of that pump (with the red arrow) I see a "P" stamped in the housing. That's obviously the pulse line port. The other two ports obviously go to tank and carb. If you weren't getting fuel how do you know you had the hoses hooked up correct ?? That's what I meant by swapping hoses. Not sure if we were talking on the same page earlier.
My dad and I were always famous for arguing and then finding out we were talking about different ends of the race car.
2) Multi meter: I am NO ELECTRON MECHANIC but I do some what know how to use this thing.
In the pic of your meter you want to set it to the area with the Egyptian hieroglyphic in the bottom left corner. That's the ohm scale. Yours has 4 different settings. Just pick one. Also leave your wires on your meter hooked the way you got it there. What you do is put any lead (the red one or black one) inside the sparkplug boot. The other wire gets hooked to each terminal on the coil. What you are looking for is the needle on the meter to move. It don't matter what it shows as long as it moves. Yours is a digital meter so it has to show over zero. If you get no reading try another scale of the 4 you have in that ohm box. If you get NO reading take the two leads and touch them together to see if your meter shows something. This is to verify your meter aint shot. If your meter is good and you got no reading then you have a break in the high tension lead.
Also wiggle the high tension lead around to see if you suddenly get no reading. This would also indicate you got a broken wire. NOTE: make sure it wasn't your lead that came loose and lost connection.
See my pics below of my cheap meter. Either meter will work for us.
You can see how I have it hooked up and you can see the needle in the middle of the scale. It has moved so that coil is good. It is showing resistance which is what we want. If it shows nothing on the scale then there is a problem.
CO[/

You asked me “how did you know you had the hoses hooked up correctly ?” Well I didn’t know if they were hooked up correctly or not,I knew I had the pulse line in right place because it’s marked with P. After it didnt pump and i took it off I tried blowing on it,I can blow air through it one way but not the other way,so I figure the end that air is coming out is the one I marked out.When it was hooked up it had the gas line from petcock going into outtake,so you have to turn pump around and when I turn it around my pulse line would not reach,I will jack with it some more Wednesday.
My picture is correct though,that port i have marked out is the out,that is not marked with a P
Thank you for explaining how do do it with the meter
Thanks
Edit:Socalgii made me great deal on petcock so another one on the way

CO you crack me up. I thinks it's greek
Me being a electrician I can help with your range scale .
Set your scale over what your trying to check or you'll end up with .00000 something
If you need to read 0 to 200 set at 200. If you need to read up in the0-20000 thousands use 2000
20 k is 20,0000
Example would 1.4 k= 1400 use 2000 scale

I am in the middle of working on it, just started. Checked the Ohms With the meter at the setting shown in picture. I got 7.4 readout on both connections.
I had a accident with the compression tester I usually use,So I bought this one at advanced auto. My other tester was testing 185, my new tester is saying 195 and another tester I have only goes up to 200 and it is testing over that,and one I borrowed from AutoZone I can’t remember exactly but it was over between 195 and 200 also. So I am wondering if I should even be running it with the gas I am using which is AV fuel 100 octane.I am wondering if I don’t need to go buy some race gas somewhere that’s at least one 110 octane