I have this kit and figure I will write my comments about it and how it works, when I get that far.
Firs off, I opted for the Farr kit rather that going for a weld on kit because if it is weld on, the cage bars are now also welded in and I have a spun gas tank and radiator which would be very difficult to remove using the welded on hoops.

my first impression is that the kit is well made, seems to have everything needed, improvements that I can think of which would not add to the cost:
Parts list
instructions, could include adjusting the rear camber and such
template for cutting the fenders
shock setup recommendations
maybe a catalog of available items from Farr

Parts list (I'll try not to miss anything)
Shock hoops, come with primer on them, a pained option would be nice but I put on rezzie mounts on one of the bars.
6 bolts for the hoops with washers and lock nuts
2 bolts for shock to shock hoop
8 spacers for shock ends
2 upper arms
4 spacers for upper arm heims to accept stock bolts
4 lower tie rods
8 spacers for lower tie rod heim to frame (these are 1/2" clearance)
4 gold color spacers for tie rod heim to rear knuckle (inside)
4 narrow aluminum spacers for outside of lower tie rod heims.
2 long 1/2" bolts and lock nuts for lower knuckle/tie rod connection
2 pivot link rods
8 spacers for pivot link rods
6 heim right hand thread (rod ends) with lock nuts
6 heim left hand thread (rod ends) with lock nuts
2 axles

I believe this covers everything.

If you think your CV boots are getting worn, now would be a good time to get replacements.

one thing you will have to do is drill out the knuckle for 1/2", it doesn't take out much material but it fought me all the way with the drill grabbing, I had to take a stone to the leading edge of the drill so it would not grab so much, if you have a reamer that would probably be a better option.

We know how much we like pictures

Sorry they are not right side up, you will just need to turn your head

just want to add at this time, I have been in touch with Manny and he has been very helpful

To be continued:

Can you tell us more about the axles?

Axles are 4.5" over stock length, I have them installed not much else to tell? I will definatly let you know if they last the season at Glamis, less than a month before the first trip

Here is the preliminary mock up


And using straps showing full travel.

So, when I did the mockup using all the stock hardware it was apparent to me that the 12mm bolts on the lower tie rods was going to make it too sloppy for my liking, I changed everything out to 1/2" hardware, this required drilling through the lower frame tie rod mounts, I actually had to use a reamer for the front mounts as it was too tight to get the drill in, if you do this you may want to just get a reamer to start with, it takes very little material out of the tabs to make it 1/2".
I bought grade 8 bolts and made sure the unthreaded portion was long enough to go through both sides then used 2 washers to make sure I could get them tight. I also cut off the extra length of thread as they were too long as is.
I did the same for the hardware for the pivot linkage, drilled out the mounts on the knuckle and also through the frame, the additional hardware cost about $35.

I powder coated the tie rods, pivot link and a arm silver to go with a stock look, good enough for Honda, good enough for me.
I located the rezzies on the forward most bar of the bolt on hoops and welded mounts on, the mounts were about $8 at the local off road shop.
Powder coated the hoops red, I tell you, the primer Manny put on these was very difficult to blast off, at least using the blast cabinet I had to work with.

Axles, I figured a different post was in order, inner part separates from the CV pretty easily, boot pulled back, pop out a C clip and the CV comes out of the cup, then there is a clip on the end of the splines, remove that and off slides the CV.

The wheel side, not quite so simple, remove the axle nut, the axle should then slide inward out of the wheel hub, if you have the lower tie rods disconnected the knuckle will rotate down so you can remove the axle assembly, simple so far.
now I have heard that you can rotate the axle far enough in the CV cup to be able to remove the balls so the star will come out, this is just a rumor at this point, if some one has done it, good for you.
the outer axle has a C clip similar to the in board CV cup to the trany. I had to make a tool using some heavy wall tubing and weld on a heave duty steel ear that you can get a good whack with a large hammer, I had to use a sledge hammer on one of them.
remove both boots, CV boots not your shoes, slide on the tool over the axle, use some soft jaws, aluminum works and clamp the axle in a vice and give the ear on the tool a good whack, the firs one took 2 one dislodged the clip, the second finished the job, the other side needed a bit more persuasion, use a box with rags to cushion the fall of the CV assembly.
At this point I cleaned and re-greased the CVs, put the spring clip on the new axle, the side with the wider groove, I screwed the axle nut on upside down right flush with the end and used that to support the assembly on the ground, then a little grease on the splines and clip insert the axle into the CV assembly and a couple of good hits with a mallet or a piece of hardwood so you do not damage the splines on the opposite end and it will go in, you will be able to feel it pop into the groove, don't get too carried away, I imagine if you were to get it too far and through the other side you would have some new problems.
put on your new CV boots, slide on the inner CV, take note of how it came apart because there is a difference, clip on, grease it up and then keep it clean until readt to assemble back into the machine.

Are they sleeved or complete/new axle?
Thank you

looking good. I would love to long travel my 350 in the rear

complete new axle, so I have the old ones I'll hang onto so if these need replacing I can sleeve them or sell later to recoup some of the cost.

continued,
so now I have the frame all drilled to accept the 1/2 inch hardware, ready to assemble.
got the a arms on install the axles, attaché the lower tie rods and pivot links.
on the pivot links if you use the stock hardware Farr provides some spacers which will allow for full travel without binding, I am using 1/2" hardware and when at full compression I do get some binding, I believe I can get rid of most of the bind by tweeking the adjustment of the knuckle, there is a lot of adjustments. so I have some parts from another project, and planning to make new pivot links using 5/8 hiems and high misalignment spacers, this will allow the hiems to pivot freely, I think that the same could be accomplished if different spacers are used, the ones provided are for the 12mm bolts and I need 1/2 clearance.
At some point in the future I may weld in some new forward pivot points about 7" ahead of the stock and make a longer pivot link but this is a bolt on kit that requires no welding and that is how I want to start out.

I mentioned that this is the first kit right?
well now it's time to fit up the shocks, I had been looking for used shocks for some time with no luck, well the day after I purchased the kit there was a set of Fos Factory Race series, 2.0x12 with DSC reservoirs, the proce was about the same as new standard 2x12 rezzie shocks but these were new only used for mock up and they has d the DSC adjusters which would be about $150 each more so I pulled the trigger on them.
I installed them to find that at full droop the axle was not completely clearing the CV cup grooves, I contacted Manny and he made me some replacements, riding season had not started yet so it was not too much of an inconvience and I appreciate his willingness to correct the issue, I had him raise it a little more than the minimum it would have needed, if he keeps the new spacing then the a person could also use fox air shocks as they are a little longer than the fox coil overs.
I now have the new hoops installed, shocks mounted up and everything looks good at this point, if I complete the new pivot links this weekend I will pull it out of the trailer and do some alignment adjustments.
so far very pleased

I though I had a picture with the springs on, nope but here is $10 you can try to use if you have an ebay purchase, it worked for me, pretty sure it will work again just need to use a different ebay account , it expires tomorrow! 9/27/19

My son just tried the code, he said it did not work for him

Thank you.

Ready for Glamis, headed out for Oct 15 thru the weekend, I'll have a better picture and let you know what I think.
The suggested springs were 100 over 150, I went for 100 over 125, I'm not sure but I could have gone with a lighter setup, I don't have the ride hiegth I was looking for but it is tough to measure without a second person

Looks mean. Congratulations.

Very jealous. I hope to bring my fleet to Glamis someday and maybe meet some fellow PO members.

Plan on this season, I'll be going mid October, Thanksgiving, New year's, then start on the off weekends, superbowl weekend and weekend after president's day are some of the best.

Here is the tool I made for removing the axle from the outer CV, a little heavier wall tubing would have been better but it got the job done

I'm terrified of crowds so any time there's a slow weekend is great for me.


I'm gonna try for it for sure.

just stay clear of holiday weekends and you'll be fine with the exception of memorial day, 4th of july and labor day, those weekends are too hot for the crowds.

Told you I'd get some better pics, this is at Glamis at a spot commonly known as sunset point, we got there about 20 minutes after it set. Samsung camera on the phone does really good in low light

How does it work, ok so all I have to compare is with the stock suspension, it works great, so far. Going through the woops at olds used to toss me around and I'd have to get out of it until past, this setup is taking the woops and giving me more traction going through them. I'm sure there is a lot more dialing in that can be done, wish I had a suspension tuner here that could tell me what to change. I know I need to work on my front setup, one thing I think I need to do is revolve the front shocks to put in more compression could be the springs are too weak but heavier and the ride hiegth is too high