OK, so the nut on the upper bolt is used as just a lock nut eh? Securing the whole bolt from the backside, vs compression from the head. I did see mention of filing the backside flat, just wasn't clear why they have you doing that.

Thanks for the tip!

Here's the install and adjustment guides that came with the kit, if anyone wants to follow along at home!

nice score.
it would be nice if they would install a hiem in the upper mount

Hey gang, long time no post. I've been busy with work stuff, as well as a couple chinesium off brand side by sides I purchased so my wife and I can take our sons out. That's a whole 'nother topic, not sure if my twin mutts would be welcome even on the General BS tab



Anyway!

The arms and spring showed up awhile back, I've just now gotten off my duff to order the puller, spider remover and tapered spider tool. They should be here Monday.



I've also been pestering Garemie (thank you sir!) for details on his shock savers, I like his layout. I think it will pair well with my tank holder. So I've gone ahead and ordered a set of the limiting straps he used, after verifying they should work with my setup. Here's a link, if anybody else is interested.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-5162/

Other than that, I wanted to share a nifty solution to my spare belt storage need. Once again, credit goes to Ryan, this was his idea. I can't recommend these canvas side panels enough. I'm in line to have a new set made if anybody is interested, I could very easily ask for extras to be made.

(In Jim Gaffigan's voice) I present you.... Belt Pocket!



Here's the opposite side, you can't tell it's even there!



Bellllllttttt Pocket!

I added that single zip tie just to make sure it won't shake loose, but otherwise the canvas cover keeps it in place. We tried it on the shifter side, unfortunately the shifter interfered with the belt and pushed it out. Where it is now though, it just fits in the frame, sandwiched between the canvas.

Belt Pocket!

Does anyone know the nut dimensions? I got my kit used and apparently it did not come with the lock nut. I am super lucky to not have broken a shock yet.

I just grabbed my kit and looked, it should be a M14-2.0.

The directions say to reuse the upper bolt and add the nut to it, the nuts I got are just plain old nylocks.

I'll double check when I run out for lunch in a bit, I need to swing by the hardware store anyway.

Hey, glad I double checked, I was mistaken for sure. It's a M14-1.50 nylock. I first went to Home Depot since I needed a couple other things, and their inventory AND thread pitch tool both went from M12 to M16.

WTF Home Depot?

I ran to my local Ace, and their thead pitch tool also only went to M12. Fortunately they did have inventory in the M14 range, that's how I was able to confirm.

Ace IS the place, baby!

I grabbed a couple since they were so cheap, if you want to PM me an address to send them to, I'll have them in the mail today. They should be there by the weekend. What I grabbed is identical to what the kit contains.

My father has essentially an entire hardware store in his shop and he actually had the nuts needed. Thanks for the dimensions!


Now my shocks are actually setup correctly

'Sup Wildcats!

I finally got the shocks installed!





I didn't bother taking many photos of the install, you've all been through it and have seen the Worx instructions. One thing I will comment on that the instructions left out was since the top eye of the Worx shock is narrower than stock, the fender bracket moves back, inboard. You can see in the above photo I have it unbolted, so it's not straining the plastic. What I did to work around this was to slip a couple washers in between the plastic and bracket to fill the gap, and then used a longer bolt to re-attach the fender. It seems happy with that setup.



"Well GrojDad, that's all fine and good, but how did the thing drive?"

WOW! Night and Day, all 4 corners. I've had surgery on my spine in 2 locations, so a rough ride can take it's toll on me. I rode for hours and had no issues afterwards, what a game changer these shocks are. I'm so happy I got them. I highly recommend, 4 thumbs up.

I've not gotten my shock savers yet, so my test drive was a bit of a gamble. They are ordered at least, so next romp I'll have them on.

Next stop, clutch service party!

Clutch Service Party pre-game show!

I wanted to share the paperwork that came with the Comet clutch tools I just received. Hopefully someone will find them helpful. If you only look at one of these, check out the brochure.

I know you can't but I keep my spare belt tucked up in the roof. I don't even have a zip tie on it, fits nice and snug..

what cams and spring did you end up going with

Clutch Service Party in Progress!!

I got the A1 cam arms and black spring, so that should put me at ~3600 rippms hopefully. What's in there now is the N1 arms, purple spring and 1 spider spacer.

Looking over the Comet documentation I've found, I did see mention of the spider spacers. It makes me wonder if I need to add/remove to maintain idle. Here's what I'm referring to:

"Spider Spacers are used in conjunction with Cam Arms for belt clearance spacing (I.E. "B" Cam Arms require two (2) --- 203150A in 201C to maintain spacing to allow Engine to idle when used with 1 1/4" wide belt. "D" Cam Arms used in same scenario require one (1) --- 203150A.)

These Spacers can be used in any number up two (2). with any Cam Arm if desired. The only real consideration being belt clearance at idle."

Elsewhere I've read:

"One is used between the spider and movable sheave on all 100/101/102-C cluthes built for 1 3/16in. wide belts, two are used in all others. Includes two washers 1 3/8in. i.d. x 1 15/16in. o.d. x 1/16in. thick. Comet Spacer Kit - Spider 203150A"

So who knows, till I get in there and tear it apart. I'll be sure to take measurements before I do anything though, at least the belt gap while in it's neutral position.

I did get the half taper tool, and I"m sad to report it doesn't appear to apply to our application. The taper is wrong :( Ah well, it can serve as a rest I suppose.



While I had the skid plate off, I decided to go ahead and change the oil in the gearbox and balance shaft. During my previous rebuilding shenanigans, I had JB Welded some neodymium magnets to the ends of the drain bolts. The JB Weld was probably not needed, but better safe than sorry.

As you can see, they did help quite a bit in the gearbox:





Here's all the glitter I captured with my magnetic trap!



Here's a good shot of the bolt and magnet all cleaned up.
PROTIP! In order to get the last little bits of metal filings off these super strong magnets, use your favorite tape! I like masking tape for this, but I"m sure duct, pvc and even double sided (if your feeling wild) will work.



Here's a shot of the balance shaft bolt, you can see it's experienced quite a bit less wear and tear. It's the same magnet, no clearance issues with either the gearbox or balance shaft.



So while those two are dripping to themselves and thinking about what they've done, on to opening up the clutch!

Clutch Service Party - I survived!

Hey everybody, Merry Christmas Eve-Eve! I hope ya'll are locked and loaded for a good holiday season.

I finally got the spring and arms swapped out. I used some clamps to hold the top plate while I removed the bolts, to keep it from going haywire. This worked really well, I was able to ease off the clamps slowly and relax it. I didn't need them for reinstalling the bolts with the black spring.







Here you can see the difference between the A1 and the N1 arms. Incidentally, the N1 arms were stamped on both sides, one side said N1, the other said C1. I wonder if maybe they are the same, the N1 and C1?





And finally back together!

While I was at it, I also took care of the driven clutch. I'm still astounded to think about it, however about a month ago I was probably 10 miles or so up the back road to Crown King, when I pulled over to use the facilities. I had goosed it to break loose the rear end and bring it around, so I could continue on when I was done. Before I climbed out, I look over and notice a little black piece of plastic laying on the dirt. When I get out, I see that it's a slipper for a driven clutch. For poop and laughter, I lay down and look up at my driven, and spin it around. Sure enough, I had just spit out the slipper, and just so happened to notice it. So I stick it in my pocket, to be re-installed at a later time. The other 2 are still in place, so they are stopping the driven from torquing around too far, but I need to get this 3rd back in.

So while I'm at it, I pull the battery tray and driven itself, so I can put it back in.



When I test fit it back in, I see why it came out in the first place, there's not much gripping the shaft. A few years back, I was big into modifying my kids PowerWheels, so I had a bottle of plastic Loctite from back in the day. It's meant to keep metal screws secure in plastic, however I'm sure the reverse is also applicable

Here's a link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F ... UTF8&psc=1



Before I forget, it was brought to my attention that I had only done half of the balance shaft breather mod. I actually did the whole thing, I just forgot to take photos of the fill side. Here they are.





So I still haven't tested the new clutch yet! Shame on me! I've been busy wrapping up end of year stuff at work, plus I also got back the twins finally. So Ryan and I have been putting them through their paces, making sure they are ready for taking my family out in the wild.

Here's a picturesque shot of Ryan in the blue one crossing the New River. It was about 1-1.5' deep. I was too slow with the camera to get him mid-stream, but I at least got the exit.



I'm super happy with these two, they may not be fast but they will climb over anything we pointed them at. We did all the 'side quests' on the trail we were on, all the extra hard paths and what not, and they ate them up and asked for more.

yes the C1 and N1 are the same cam..they are just called N1 now. they used to be C1.

I did a video on the driven clutch a while back. changed out the spring from the stock black one to the red one.

Party People!

I finally got off my duff and got my shock savers done. I really liked the setup that Garemie had done, so I elected to copy it!

I already had my spare tank holder in place, I just needed to figure out how to attach to it. Since I had the tank holder powder coated, I really didn't want to drill/cut on it. So I took some angle iron, and used that to make a little 'add on' bracket that uses the existing u-bolt for the tank mount.

I didn't get a lot of photos of the fabrication (that would make sense for this post at least), so here's the pre-assembly result. I managed to get them cut/ground/drilled/blasted/painted all in one afternoon.



Here's the finished result, I'm happy with it. Since I used the angle iron on the tank holder side of things, I was able to keep the strap horizontal at both attachment points. I also removed the rear shock lower bolt, to verify the travel and that the strap doesn't interfere.



So at this point, nothing to it but to try it right?!? Plus, I still need to see how my revised spring and cam arms do. So that's what I do!

So since I had added the shock savers, I suppose you could call the old girl 'done' at this point. At least done enough to start driving more than I work on it, I hope.

I took it out by my house, riding the local trails that I can get to without having to trailer up. I'm actually quite pleased with the change to the clutch, as far as spring and arms. It engages right where I expected it to and also I have reverse again! Yay!

The only thing I might change regarding the clutch at this point would be a slightly heavier spring on the driven. When riding, the clutch will engage and cause the ripms to sag somewhat, almost like the drive clutch is overcoming the driven. Driving by my house it's fine, however I'm not sure what the performance will be on a hill climb. Fully shared his video on changing from the black to the red spring, is the red spring heavier? Anybody got a part number/specifics on that red spring?

In case I haven't mentioned it yet, I don't have a lot of space in my workshop. Because of this, I have to keep the Honda parked on my trailer, and then park both in one of the bays of my garage. After getting back from my test ride, I load up and stow them both. When I was unhooking from my truck, I looked up and noticed this:





Only the passenger side up front is oily like that; the driver side looks shiny still. So I send both of those photos off to DT in Bakersfield, the dealer I bought them from. He replies immediately, however I wasn't able to speak on the phone (this was on Sunday).

We finally connect on Monday (yesterday), and he refers me to the folks directly at Worx. So I give them a call, and explain the situation. The gentleman I spoke to at Worx asked I remove both front shocks, and send both in.

When I removed the lower bolt on the 'leaking' shock, I immediately needed a change of pants. Why you ask? Because it fell apart all over my trailer deck!



I definitely was not expecting it to completely come apart when I pulled out that lower bolt. Once I got my wits together, I took these other 2 shots.





When I had reached out to DT and Worx, I had only assumed the shaft seal had been leaking. I didn't realize that the entire lower cap (or whatever it's called) had come unscrewed. So I put the bad shock into a gallon size ziptop bag and send it along with the other front shock back to Worx. They should be delivered to Worx by Thursday.

While I'm disappointed that my new shock came apart (received all 4 on 11/22/2019), I have been extremely pleased with the service I've gotten since reporting the issue. Everyone I've dealt with has been immediately responsive and helpful, and I feel I'm in good hands. So while I'm bummed I can't ride, I'm not worried about this getting resolved

So stay tuned, for the next thrilling installment, when the shocks come back!
Be sure to drink your Ovaltine!

I recently disassemble my works rear shock

part number for the red spring
300397A it can also have a C instead of the A same spring
the red spring is rated at 160psi , black s 130psi.

fully, Thank you very much! I've got a red spring ordered, maybe it will be here before the front shocks.

Much appreciated

I bought mine at belt palace along with a few other things. he was very helpful and seemed to know his shit petty well

Finally got my shocks back!

It took way longer than I thought. It was partly my fault, I had written a note to stick in the box before dismounting them, and in the note I just said it was leaking. When I had removed the busted one, I stuck it in a gallon ziptop bag in two pieces with the original note. I had shipped them out on 1/13.

I waited till 1/31, and I reached out asking for a status update. They advised I had been put in the queue with the regular repair work, instead of being bumped ahead as a warranty item. The gentleman I spoke to advised he'd follow up with me the following week. I waited again till 2/12, and called back. I was told their lathe was down, that they couldn't cut new shafts till it was repaired.

I asked 'why does it need a shaft, it looked to me like the cap screwed out.' After that, I clarified what had happened, and was told 'well, I'm not calling you a liar, but I've never seen that before, an end cap unscrewing.' I was advised I'd be called back the next day, and actually got the call about an hour and a half later.

It turns out the end cap had basically ejected, due to poorly cut threads. They were going to be checking the rest of the batch, and they said that sitting the failed one next to a good one, the difference was night and day. They also sent back the failed one so we could see what had happened




So they assumed I had disassembled the shock myself, before shipping it. That's why they had planned on replacing the shaft, reassembling it and then shipping it back. Had they done so, the same thing probably would have happened again. That's also why I got stuck waiting for the lathe.



While I was at it, I also pulled off the driven clutch and replaced the spring.





It was definitely a challenge getting the clutch back together with the new spring. I'm really glad I invested in the Salisbury toolkit, it made a world of difference.

So now I need to get my GPS tracker installed, and get out there and test it out. I'm hoping to have the tracker done tonight.

I've got the perfect spot, that I'm not going to be publicly sharing If anybody is interested, send me a PM and I'll share.

Definitely wanna keep this baby as safe as possible.

Before I did my rear clutch I was trying to find a free app that would download speed time and distance to show others what the difference was. Draggy was one app but you need to purchase the gps thing for it.

Fully,

I gotta hand it to you, the red spring was definitely the ticket. Now when you 'drop the thumb', she jumps to the power band and stays there. I'd call that the winning combination, the A1 cam arms and black spring on a 102c, and then put the red spring on your stock Salisbury driven.

I've not tried it with the N1/C1 and black spring, I wonder what the difference would be like. I really like the A1, it's a very smooth transition.

I've been out the last 2 days in a row (I got lucky and had Presidents Day off) and man she's just about dialed in I believe CO commented these ladies like to run cool, so I'm rethinking my temp sensor in the thermostat bung. I may drop that, especially with spring around the corner. When I'm driving around by my house, it stays in the 120-130 degree range, with ambient around 70 degrees.

I think I might take a ride today during my lunch break

BTW I'm up to 260 miles on the odometer of my GPS speedometer. Need to get that baby to 4 digits!

130 is definitely fine but I agree with CO. I don't run any Thermo switching or fans but I've never seen mine get above 130 or so. I have my water pump constantly running when the machine is on.

I can't take credit for the red spring, methodical was the one that figured that one out..
as far as temp goes. when we are in the bush mine will sit at 160, I am using the same rad as CO, out of a Honda Civic, but I believe my pump might of been bad, I just bought a new one so we will see how it works out.i might reroute my plumbing as well, pump it to the cylinder first then up through the head then back to rad. currently have it going through my head then down to cylinder then up to rad.