Bottom out clearance is 2” with a single 0.6” bump stop. No axle bind. Springs fit like a glove too!

OK so I've set these in place on the Pilot. Put 200# of dead weight in the driver's seat.

Pre-load is only 0.5", that's about 32lb per
Sag is set to 3 inches (25%), that's about 192lb per - This makes sense as the corner weight minus wheel weight is about 240lb per rear corner.
Crossover is set to .25", that's about another 16lb per

Bottom 16" 100lb spring will clear and not block. I've given it about 1/2" before block point.

Then there is about 8.25" of travel at 100lb per inch, that's 825lb

Total poundage is 1068lb. Compared to before with the 80/100 springs, which was only 528lb due to useless crossover.

There a LOT of adjustment I can do with this. I cannot lower the pre-load much seeing as there isn't much spring at full extension, but I can definitely increase it. Then on the crossover, I can go quite a ways out (Less poundage/softer). I'd say right now I have the first 1/3 of travel set very mildly but the rest should come on strong when really needed, and right away - per my jumping and needing stiffness to slide out for turn-in. Basically I have the crossover at max strength without binding the lower spring. I can reduce it significantly - from 1 to 6". This setup will give me a poundage range between about 800~1100lb.

Picture

Looking forward to the next ride report.

How’s this for a ride report? Actually didn’t ride it yet!

Looks great.
Does it have a torque snubber to keep the clutches in alignment?

I do t think so. The plate is firmly attached to the gearbox with 3x heavy bolts which is also doweled on both sides. It doesn’t seem like there is any flex at all between the Engine and box.

lol! Gonna rip!

Updated photos

Finished welding new crossbar for the tank and seatbelt mount. Finished welding new upper radiator support. Cleaned, primed, and painted items.

Installed motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), clutch, belt, starter, exhaust, carbs, intake, fuel and pulse lines. Blocked off about 5 nipples not going to be used. Noted 2 carb vent lines - installed long vent tubes. Plumbed and filled the water pump oil tank - drip-drip-drip takes a long time for oil to get down there I guess that's right though.

Started working on electrical. Had to order electrical tape, spade terminal set, heat shrink, 12v relay, wire loom, and some wire. Mostly hooked up the radiator fan just need a few spades to complete. Ignition system checked out. At first I was barely getting intermittent spark, but I found my pulse/trigger coil was not putting out enough vAC due to not being close enough to the flywheel's pickup. I moved it almost 1mm closer to the pickup so now its 0.015" gap. All better now. BTW that went from 0.200vAC to 0.420vAC doing that.

Also the charge coil is putting out 22vAC at 500rpm cranking.

The lighting coil is only putting out 6vAC but I'm thinking that will come way up when Engine actually runs.

About 1 in 10 e-starts and the pinion on the starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) would jam into the flywheel. I then noticed the alignment was not close enough for a good mesh. I took the starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) off and ground down the morning points by about 1.5mm to more the alignment closer. She has not bound up since. Gotta say though - this starter is loud loud LOUD! My apply 5 watch is saying 95db from the driver's seat. The gears are meshing well though and there doesn't seem to be any wear. Hope it stays together!

what starter are you using? looks like it is one that has the mount built in? my starter uses a separate mounting bracket, I have to use washers to position it to the location which works best.

It might be a cheap starter from searching google. Ya it’s fixed mount. Definitely works much better after I shaved down the mounts about 2mm.

UPDATES!

SO I'm about 95% complete with the Rotax conversion. I was able to start the machine up several times for initial flight-checking and troubleshooting. Anytime you do a major task such as this definitely makes sense to check everything out. I found a very small coolant leak, and also had my cooling fan wired in-correctly. This is why its important to test stuff out before hitting the trails!

The biggest issue I've run into is a failed/failing CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit. This conversion is a bit frankenstein as you would imagine, and while the 600HO motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) originally should have used either an MPEM (or ECU), this one was converted to the older style 583 ignition components - which is more a traditional CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) based. This puts the ignition stuff about 10 years older than the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) (so ~25 year old CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)).

Jiggling the wires coming out of the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) would cause my inductive tach to bounce everywhere and the Engine to stall out. Fortunate for me, Emanual actually had a spare and so he is sending it to me.

In the meantime; while the replacement CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) is crossing the Canada/US boarder; I decided to put on my science cap and take this failing CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) apart. I carefully cut off the back of the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to reveal the circuit board. What I found were multiple suspicious solder joints. I re-soldered the entire CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) board. It worked! The re-soldered CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) works perfectly. Only trouble is its kind of a throw-away now.

Here is a picture of the repaired CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) connected to the pilot. This picture was taken while the machine was running; about 15 minutes and no issue.

Pic

Why is it a throw-away now? Get some potting compound and a plastic case and seal it back up.

I already glass epoxy resin'd it back up tight. Its sealed and working ~ for now. I know its not the right stuff to use but it is what I had on hand. These CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) units seem to be available from aftermarket places like regulator rectifier.com for about $80. AND they're modified for higher RPM. I'm not too worried about sourcing a replacement later on - and as mentioned Farr has sent me another CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) for replacement/spare.

Dave-Co pilot build with rotax 600HO is now complete! Now just need to wait for some nicer weather and test drive the new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) AND rear springs.

Final photos and a drive video to come shortly!

Pictures and first neighborhood ride report coming right up!

More photos

More pictures

Let’s just say, ear to ear grinning happening here!

Name for this machine has changed! Since I’ve got 2 pilots I’ve been calling them Thing1 and Thing2, but now this one is no longer the Dave-Co Pilot, not Mudbogger anything. No longer Thing2 either!

Please welcome Franken-Thing2!


First ride up/down the asphalt was very brief but oh so fun!

Here’s so much power on tap! The Engine takes a second to come alive but once it does-OMG! Power valves here we go! It’s a wheelie monster! It’s going to dig trenches! It’s going to Jump! It’s going to burn lots of gas! That being said I’m going to run likely 90octane ethanol free to keep costs down and maybe even get more power. These 600ho engines are designed for 87 octane. No way am I going to let this one guzzle the 110! Plus I think plenty of rebuild resources out there for failures, if ever needed.

Clutch seems to slam on at about 5k. Might need to lube it as I hear it clunk a bit also on disengagement.
Pulled the plugs after the run and they look a bit wet but it seems to be Reving out cleanly.

Next run I’ll have the WideBand O2 in the tailpipe for sure!

Very nicely done. Wish H would add some guys to the projects.
I see where this one is a canadate for sure.
Meth would be another.
Lots of very good new stuff going on taking pilot and odysseys to a new era.
Maybe even a hybrid section I see where it's fitting.

FT2 it is.

Enjoy the frankin thrill ^2

Looks great well done.
You running a temp gauge? Rad temps will be interesting with the fuel tank in front.

Congratulations Eric, very nice. Boy you got that done quick.

I do have a gauge. It hit 160F just going up/down the street. The fan has not come on. Actually I don't know at what temperature the stock Skidoo thermoswitch is so I'll have to keep a tab on that say if it goes north of 200F.

Radiator placement - I don't have many other choice. I had to mount the radiator down low because of the 3/4" crossbar which supports the rear suspension. The fan interferes with that bar. Then if I put the radiator up too high - my 'D-pillar' (I have an A thru E pillars) blocks the water in-let to the radiator. I might be able to get a much slimmer fan - which then I could mount the radiator up much higher. The current fan is 2.5" deep. If I could find a 2" fan then I could move the radiator up about 4 inches. Also this fan is looks to be kind of a cheap ebay/amazon brand. I've used them before and they're -ok-, but a Spal fan would be a lot better I'm sure.

I was also thinking of maybe doing some kind of scoop or shroud for the radiator - similar to the stock shroud - or maybe I'll use/adapt the stock shroud? A scoop from up higher would probably work well.

looks great, you should get some paddle tires and plan a trip out to Glamis next season.