are the adjustable jets standard with the lectrons or something you added?

They are a standard feature for the Lectron carbs. They do require some initial adjustments out of the box for a good tune but will auto adjust after that point.

those lectrons look good..still haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet..been looking at the smart carb more than the lectron

Sounds like it could be a smart move.

I didn’t consider going that route but they are both the same concept.

https://youtu.be/BWWaU365UcU

SmartCarb 100%. Completely transformed my confidence in my Pilot going through so much elevation change.

Well... I got the Engine installed.

A few things to note for install.
1. You need to install longer studs in the bottom of the Engine. I got them at the local auto store 10x1.5
2. You need to use spacers between the Engine and Engine mount. 3/4" diameter and 23.2mm length.
3. The intake manifolds on the Engine are not the ones that came with it. I used intake manifolds from a 2013 Skidoo MXZ 600 sport xp. These lift up the carbs & allow them to clear the gearbox.
4. Electric start ONLY. Little bummed about this as I like having pull start as well. I wasn't even planning on using electric start but that's what Ill end up doing as the pull start on the Engine will not allow for proper alignment of the clutches. Pictures below.

I ended up using a Engine mount made by Methodical Fabricator. More heavy duty then the Farr one that I have. The exhaust, gas tank, and intake are from made by Emmanuel (Farr). It all went together rather easily.

Going to be making the mounting brackets for the radiator today.

Pull start removed allowed for clutch alignment.

looks good, that is a pricy intake system

what is the distance you are using for the EGT probes?
also would you get a measurement for me from the exhaust flange to the middle of the convergence cone on the exhaust? I'm thinking I need to do some mods on my 670, when the head pipe was modded to fit the pilot it looks like about 4-5 inches was added and nothing removed from the pipe for adjustment, if correct that would bring make the pipe tuned length for a lower RPM killing alot of potential for what it could be.

Kuma, It was not cheap but will hopefully be a worthwhile investment. I followed the instructions on my KOSO dual EGT and it said 4 inches from the piston skirt. This device also reads RPM and liquid temp.

https://kosonorthamerica.com/product/eg ... ature-rpm/

I got my radiator mounted up. I think it came out pretty good for a few hours work. The Honda civic radiator itself is also modified. I cut off the inlet and outlet on it, welded the holes off, and welded new (smaller 1"id) bungs on the opposite side. I had delrin bushings made that go between the radiator and the mounts. I will weld a support brace under the lower mount when I take it apart to make it a little more rigid.

I also pulled the clutch today. What a pain in the ass... The damn clutch puller broke off inside the clutch. Luckily I wacked it with a sludge a few times and the clutch popped off.

Now I can install the ring gear for the starter. I kind of want to upgrade the clutch to a Comet 108C.... we'll see.

where did you pick up the radiator/fan shroud as well as the air box assembly?

I bought the radiator on ebay & modified it myself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/382062048886

The air box & gas tank I bought off a gentleman on the Facebook page. It was originally made by Emmanuel (Farr Offroad)

FYI,
I found what works for pulling the clutch is tipping the Engine/pilot up so you can fill the snout with water and tefflon tape on the threads, takes about 3 wraps, it has to be a good seal, tighten it in to the threads on the clutch and it should pop it off, some use grease instead of water, that way you don't have to tip the Engine but then you have grease to clean up.

After whacking with a sledge, make sure to check the run out on the crank.

Yes I now know of the water trick! I’ll be sure to use that in the future. The clutch popped off on the 3rd hit and I didn’t beat on it or anything like that. The pressure was still on it from the half of the puller stuck in there so it just needed a little persuasion. I did check the end of the crank to make sure it didn’t have any play and rotated it. All looked and felt good. I ordered a new PWB 80 clutch for it, got the ring gear, and the starter arrived today.

I was looking over the wire harness and noticed one of the plugs for the rectifier was damaged.
Not sure if it is repairable? Should be a round green end on it…

You should be able to replace that plug assuming you don't mind if it's not green.
Normally I would suggest cycleterminal, but it looks like they are out of stock of that connector: http://www.cycleterminal.com/ds250-sealed.html
Found this site after a quick search, never used them before though: https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/DS-S/ds-s.html

Thanks bud! I just ordered the plug

I made a little more progress on this build. I got the new power bloc clutch installed after having some issues finding the correct ring gear for the clutch. I got the sled part of the wiring sorted out and will post some photos of that as I make more progress. Still waiting on the plug for the rectifier. I am going to be installing a fuel level sensor in the gas tank & also a different style fuel cap for it. I am going to be welding a bung in the radiator as well for a temp sensor. The goal is to have all the dash lights working on the steering wheel. The EGT hose clamp style mounts were a bit wonky due to the shape of the pipe so I will be installing weld in style bungs to install the sensors.

Who did you get the clutch and ring gear from (how many teeth did. End up
Being) and if you don’t mind what did it cost? Is it tuneable like the ones for the pilot?

I recommend an aluminum heat shield over the starter. I have heard that they get burnt up pretty fast from the exhaust.

Yes definitely the starter needs heat protection.
On my FL800Pilot,ex Ak's,the starter is protected in Heat Wrap.
The woven fibreglass flat wrap and has proven it's effectiveness in time with Ak's use,plus in my Downunder heat track racing and including outback bush Enduros.

I found the ring gear on eBay and luckily found a new one as they showed to be discontinued on the parts websites. It cost about $140 shipped. I didn’t count all the teeth on it but I could if you would find it useful. I emailed back and forth with CV Tech for a bit to find the correct ring gear. The original ring gear I was planning on using measured 162mm center to center on the bolt holes across the clutch. This should have fit because I used the year, make, and model when selecting the clutch on their website. It didn’t. The clutch I received required 180mm ring gear. They told me what sleds it came on and that’s how I tracked down the new one. This clutch is tunable with pucks just like the ones for the oem Engine pilots.

I have heard about the starters getting heat soaked and I like both of the ideas of a shield and heat wrap. I think I’ll do a combination of both for additional protection.

I have been thinking about making a aluminum fire wall / barrier behind the seat as well. Got to figure out what seat I am going to use & see if I got enough room for one.

the civic rad should already have at the bottom a place for a temp sensor. mine did

You are correct. There is a port on the radiator already. I need a total of 3 temp probes. 1 for the fan controller, 1 for the Koso dash (EGT,RPM,Temp), and one for the steering wheel light. I have a port in the head that I will use for Koso. The radiator one will control the fan. The sensor for the light will need a bung welded on the radiator & I have the sensor from the pilot already. I guess the light is redundant as I will have the Koso digital readout but why not if I got the parts?

Plug for the rectifier came in. Worked great.

In the process of sourcing a throttle cable setup. The factory snowmobile throttle cables wont work with the Lectron carbs.

for the fan controller this is similar to what I run

www.flex-a-lite.com/accessories/electri ... probe.html