Beautiful welds!

Thanks guys. Will be filling it tomorrow to see how much she holds!

The tank holds 3.25 gallons! Nice round number. So now brakes. I got a fl350 steering wheel and MC for dirt cheap and I'm going to use it on the fl250 column so I can have a hydraulic rear brake. Now I'm not sure this will work but I'm hoping to make 2 lines go into a tee and then run a line to the rear so I can use either brake handle or both to stop.

Have you considered power steering?

The tank holds 3.25 gallons! Nice round number ----------------
Well my guess was way off.

Now I'm not sure this will work but I'm hoping to make 2 lines go into a tee and then run a line to the rear so I can use either brake handle or both to stop :
If you do that you will need a brake bias adjustment knob or your rear brakes will lock before your fronts. This will cause you to spin out at speed. But I'm not sure if it would even work because pressure is pressure. Even if you reduce flow to a certain part, the psi will be the same and therefore lock on set of wheels first. The dual braking system was invented for safety reasons. If you blow a line you still got some brakes. On my formula race car I had a brake bias adjustment but it also had a dual braking system. This made it easy to adjust bias.
Story here: Was at the race track and was fukn with the bias knob because we just fuel up the car and I wanted more rear brakes because of the larger tire contact patch. I guess I fkd up because the rear wheels locked diving into a turn. That was a very high speed off. Coming into that turn I was doing 135 mph. As soon as I hit the brakes it was all over. Things got quiet in the car. That's never a good thing in a race car because it means you are airborne. That happened twice during that spin out.
CO

I won't have front brakes. Just an atv caliper on the rear chain case disc.

Just wondering if I can combine both mc ports for one caliper? Or just cap one side with a plug?

And power steering would be awesome but don't need to take on anymore than I already am. For now I just want a chassis that works! But would def consider it someday if I feel the need to go with a a arm front end. That would be when I'd add front brakes also.

Well then in my opinion I would say no you can't do that.
Reason: If you "T" both sides together then as soon as you squeeze one lever the pressure would go through the other side since it's in the "return" phase.
Think of it this way -- when you squeeze any brake lever pressure builds in the system to move the brake caliper piston. When you let off the brakes, where does that pressure go ??
That's right, it returns the fluid back to the master cylinder reserve pot.
So therefore this idea will not work because one side is in the "return" phase.
I know what you are thinking -- "well then I will just put in a check valve". Nope that won't work either. If you do that then the fluid would have no ability to return on that side.
CO

Ok thanks for clearing that up. Makes sense now. But I am set on having hydraulic brakes on this along with using the 350 wheel. I'm not a fan of the stubby 250 controls. Wouldn't pluging one port and just using one brake handle work? If not I will try getting some trx hubs with discs that I know fit the spindles and see if I can get some calipers mounted. Then I can run the mc the proper way.

Yes, you can use just one side of that MC at a time. they are separate systems

Agree.
CO

Edit: Just my opinion here but I think you are going to find that with only rear brakes, your braking is going to be anemic. Also it will be tail happy. The looseness will make it turn real quick though LOL.
CO

Thanks for your help guys. Idk how the 350 rear brake is set up but I've read the 250s stop on a dime cuz it's braking b4 the gear reduction and that's with a cable brake. I hear you tho more brakes the better but figured I'd start with what it came with back then but slightly better with a modern atv hydraulic brake. It is only a 250 after all. For now...

Pics. Getting real close!! Weighed in at 480lbs. Welding is done and in final assembly stage.

don't you mean disassembly, powder coat and assembly stage?

Yea i guess its not final... Ive learned my lesson painting before testing. Alot could go wrong on the first test drive. Plus im not done adding stuff. Lights rad flag and other brackets.

It runs! I havent drove it yet though because im still waiting for jets. Having electric start is soo nice!

Nice work.

What’s going on with the rear wheels?

that's at full droop. It will squat with a rider. The downside to a single joint axle

Ok, I looked closer at the pictures of the rear without wheels and I see what you are saying.

Looking forward to seeing some color.

Any plans for fenders.

Yea im leaning towards red. I wasn't planning on doing fenders but yea I know im going to get covered in dirt. Id like to do some plastic or aluminum body side panels later.

That looks so good.

There would be a decent size market for the Challenger bolt on rear suspension kits for the stock FL250 chassis, if you had any interest in making them. On the FB group there are constantly people looking for them.

Reason I say that is, you're clearly setup to do so, and your work looks very clean.

Thank you. Ive put a ridiculous amout of time into this. Im so stoked to drive this for the first time. Yea i think your right. Its the major downfall of the fl250. The hard part is the weird splines honda used and u joints challenger used. My setup needs stock axle machined and keyed. Im still skeptical that these little keys will hold up to the abuse... But if they do i might start one for a stock frame and see how it goes.

I agree it is a weak point. Ultimately it's going to come down to if they are precision cut. If there is any movement, they won't last long.

The actual Challenger kit used a spline and compression bolt setup, though I'm sure you know that already. Extremely difficult to find u joint yolks to accommodate that though.

They are very tight. Machined on a mill and keys filed to fit. Honestly im not looking forward to taking everything apart its so snug haha. Plus 3/16th roll pins through both joint yokes. But yea splines are the way to go. Wont be hitting any jumps for awhile that's for sure!