friends at work were thinking of me and gave me a few of these before scrapping the devices.

They are 12 Volt (adjust up to 13.66) DC switching power supplies.
Produce 50 Amps.

Can be paired to be 100Amps.

Unfortunately they don't have a charger controller circuit for the RV batteries. I use them in the shop to poer the gadgets.

In the pics teh clear tube is the fuse and the poor pic of a shunt to the right of it.

They are 12" long ~6" wide and 4" tall

Looks good I will take one and give it a try, is it protected or will my 3 dead or low charged RV battery's fry it?

Currently I have a battery charger that is 10 amp and 30/50 amp, you switch it to the 30/50 when starting a Engine, if I put it on 30/50 the amps show 25-30, after about 5 min you hear the charger clicking and the needle bouncing from 0 to 30 amps like its tripping a over load inside?

Like its a auto reset breaker or something, I guess I could pull the cover and see exactly what it is, the charger is older and well used I suppose the over load is getting weak? From the sound it makes when tripping I suspect current passes through it and heats up a bi metal that opens the contacts? then cools and resets ...

that's sounds like an over heating regulator or sensor mis reading. You mentioned a relay: that would give you a clicking.
Dunno though.

I wouldn't try to start a vehichle with this. Although if you do let me know if it worked.

If ypur three batteries are in parallel and not through isolators then fix that too. They fight each other on the voltages as the temperatures change and the chemistry shifts.

I wont be trying to start anything with your setup...


Right now I have all 3 batts parallel and not through isolators how do I charge and draw from all 3 batts yet keep them isolated?

unfortunately its a multi-bank charger. or three chargers.

Ideally a multi-bank charger controller that takes in the high amperage source and controls the charge for each battery independantly.

This is what the Solar Panel controllers do. But they are still real expensive.

Hey Mass,

Where might someone buy one of these? I fly R/C heli's and my DC chargers, (2 of them) are 250 watt a piece and I'm having a hard time charging things at full amperage with out haveing my truck Engine running. I seen some commercially availible units in the 50 amp range for 150 to 200 bux and Radio shack has a 25 amp one but that won't handle both chargers at once. I really don't want to tote 2 power supplies aaround too, unless I have to. Thing is with my truck running I can charge one pack in 20 mins. With the Engine off it takes 60 mins cause the voltage drops to low and the charger shuts itself off. Each charger is $300 bux and won't run off of a battery charger because of the bad sine wave or something like that, I forget right now. I've read of some computer supplys being ok to use but still they lack the ability to run both chargers at once and it's pot luck if they work to the stated amperage or not. It's the difference of flying or having to bullshit more than I want to waiting till I can fly again.

Any ideas?

Tom

Here is a idea...

Get a generator and gas can out of back of your truck and let generator run charger for hours and hours not new 30k pickup truck...

Do you need AC powered charger?

Or a DC controller for the power from the truck?

These units came out of network chassis'

A PC power supply could help. But you'll need to fake it out to produce. Trigger the power good lead usually. Its a sense wire back from the mother board to say everthing is fine and power up the board. That is where the higher current / power leads are.

On esolar controller that I figure we could feed with DC power is here:
http://www.specialtyconcepts.com/SPECIA ... MANUAL.PDF
Just a guess though.

These are Deltron FT12C3-13 http://www.deltroninc.com/products_fsft.html

And here is a surplus site:
http://www.surplussales.com/PowerSupplies/PowerS-3.html

I need a AC to DC power supply. I have a Thunder Power 1010 and a Shulze 6-330D charger and as I said before each are around 250 watts.
The packs I use are 36 to 45 volt DC and when charging they push about 6 amps but draw about 15. (40v x 6 amps = 240 watts.) At our flying field,

http://spiritsofstl.com/

There are outlets in the pits and that's what I would like to run off of. You can see them on the home page picture in the background on the short wooden posts.

Tom

So your current charger runs off the cigarette lighter?

Massody I wonder if he can use that power supply I showed you before out of the RV ? I think it was 30 amps at 12v

Yeah he needs a 12VDC Supply for sure.
He PM'd me.

So one of my spares will have a new home.

Cool I hope it does what he needs...

It should.

Litespeed. There is a tiny little phillips head potentiometer that is the output voltage adjust.

Its set for 12 Volts now. You can turn it up to 13.6 or so volts.

The power cord for it is a regular PC power cord.
The power supply is free the power cord is a hundred bux. ;)

LMFAO

Welcome to one of my "other" obsessions!!!

Both chargers have aligator clips,

See pictures

Use some decent fuses like for car stereo pimps. And snp those alligator leads off and hard wire this supply in.

I'd even add either taps for a hand held meter. Or use dash gauges for volts and current draw. Definitely fuse this supply well.

Enjoy!

I want an electric helo. Probably should learn to fly first. Watchs a good electric start up setup go for and include?

The hardest thing about a heli is hovering it. The closest analogy I have thought of is it's like balancing a steel ball on a dome. It's hard enough to keep it at the top but then as it gets farther away from the top you have to over compensate and the compensate for your over compensation when it's going the other way.

Anyway, if you want a fun fly around the house/garage heli then I would say start with a E-Flite Blade CX2, see link,

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Defau ... D=EFLH1250

it's prolly the easiest to fly and you can work on your orintaions which can also be pretty tough. You want the CX2 cause it has the Spektrum 2.4GHz and it never gets interference. It's pretty durable, has tons of parts support and is cheap. What more could a guy want I ask you. It's $189.99 ready to fly, pre-flown even. Has the radio, heli, DVD and li-po battery and AC DC balancer/charger. Can't go wrong. I have one myself and like the crap out of it. Just go to your local Hobby Shop and see if they have it. If you get one I'll show you the must have mods to keep it 99% crash proof.

Just so you know, If you fly heli's "YOU WILL CRASH" and you will BREAK PARTS!

You get used to it quickly, Ask me how I know!

Hope you obsess too!

Tom