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FL350 restoration http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4212	Page 1 of 2

Author:	Sunblock [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:49 am ]
Post subject:	FL350 restoration
I am going to completely restore this machine so I thought I would post a thread here detailing the progress I make. I have enjoyed looking at pics of others projects so here goes. I purchased this machine for $750, The current owner knew that it would run a bit by spraying starter fluid in the carb but that was about it. I am going to pick up some more odys, so if this were to be a parts machine that would be ok. He had bought the machine to restore it as well, but never got around to it. He kept it in a shed, but it appears it had been stored outside in the past by another owner. I got it home, tore of the remains of the floor tub and began testing everything out. It would idle ok, but had some issues with air/fuel delivery and would rev high. The frame it straight and looks great for a restoration project. Since it would run, it must have potential. Here is the first pic after a slight amount of work testing the hydraulics and messing with the idle.

Author:	Sunblock [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:00 am ]
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The piston and cylinder both look like a top end job is long overdue. Time to start the entire tear down process.

Author:	Sunblock [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:22 am ]
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Began breaking down the machine today more pics : The reed cage looks pretty dirty, I would guess there should not be crud on it. The reeds themselves look ok though. There was no gasket between the manifold and the reed cage. Not sure if that is normal or not. It appears that some crud was sucked in between the two, likely the source of an airflow problem and my strange idling issues has hoser and others have suggested. Here is the side crud on the intake manifold, I suspect a leaky seal pulled dirt and air in over time. The manifold itself though looks ok. no cracks or such Rear brake piston is in bad shape. The piston had completely rusted to the caliper. Had to work it loose and then push out with compressed air. Sounded like a bomb when it finally popped out. It slides in and out pretty easily now after cleaning with blaster and fine sanding. Still has some pitting though. I am not sure if the piston is salvageable but I am going to give it a shot and see if it works. The inner 2/3rds look ok. Carb looks good. need to take it apart further though and look in the float bowl. Final shot after removing parts and some of the frame. Hope to start sanding and painting soon.

Author:	hoser [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:09 am ]
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You scored good on this 350 I will buy them all day at that price.. Any pictures of the bottom end and more views of the cylinder? Looks like it was run quite a while with the gasket missing to accumulate that much oil grease muck on the Engine.

Author:	Sunblock [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:40 pm ]
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Just got the piston off, The piston rod is not firmly held in place, it has a slight wobble. The crankshaft looks bad in some places, I think they need to be changed. Time to split the case, I suspect I will need to go pick up some new tools to do this. Piston looks to be wiseco, not sure of the size though, maybe these markings are a clue? More pics in a bit, I suspect I will be in the garage most of the night.

Author:	Sunblock [ Tue May 06, 2008 9:33 pm ]
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A few new pics, I was hoping to paint the frame this week, but the I am having a hard time getting the transmission out. The driven clutch wont budge and the rotor has one nut that has been stripped. I have read a few threads on the driven clutch, its been soaking in PB blaster for the last few days but still will not move at all. I guess I will pick up one of those craftsman stripped nut tools tomorrow. Any thoughts on my nasty crankshaft? I am hoping that I can just clean all that gunk off and it will be fine.

Author:	stix [ Thu May 08, 2008 4:27 pm ]
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If you get that Craftsman nut cutter tool let us know how it worked.I always wondered if it would be useful in "the real world" .I have seen them on the shelf at Sears but never actually bought one and used it.

Author:	Nuke Em [ Thu May 08, 2008 10:48 pm ]
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I drill, tap, and heli-coil the 3 holes in the driven on stuck drivens. It has worked every time for me. You just need to use a puller and it will pop right off. I am sure there are some write ups on it if you use the search... Gary

Author:	Sunblock [ Fri May 09, 2008 12:03 am ]
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stix9567 wrote: If you get that Craftsman nut cutter tool let us know how it worked.I always wondered if it would be useful in "the real world" .I have seen them on the shelf at Sears but never actually bought one and used it. I ended up just sawing off the nut and the last tranny bolt that I could not remove due to the driven clutch. I will have to do some more reading on removing the clutch, but for now It gets a dose of PB blaster twice a day while I focus on sanding.

Author:	Turbotexas [ Fri May 09, 2008 12:43 am ]
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It is not necessary to remove the clutch to get the tranny out of the Ody... just makes it easier to have it in there to pull on!!!

Author:	Sunblock [ Fri May 09, 2008 5:19 pm ]
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Turbotexas wrote: It is not necessary to remove the clutch to get the tranny out of the Ody... just makes it easier to have it in there to pull on!!! I was curious about that. I think that the long bolts that connect it to the frame where installed backwards, so when you try and slide them out, the driven clutch would not let me. had they been the other direction, only the nut would have to have been removed, and they could have easily slide out on the other side. I think some retard but it back together wrong in the past. I am just glad I can start painting soon now.

Author:

hoser [ Fri May 16, 2008 6:47 pm ]

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Your cylinder arrived today, I assume it was for this Engine?

I did a quick hone to see where the bore is at, its horrible lol this cylinder has it all, rust, deep grooves, worn uneven.

I did find the piston to cylinder clearance at .004 so who ever set it up was not a mile off, they relieved the exhaust bridge but did not drill the holes in the piston. Their was a SLIGHT scuff mark on the piston at the exhaust bridge where it looked like it was trying to seize, amazing you can run one at .004 and without ANY piston coatings and they survive this goes against what the other guy selling coated pistons says...

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Author:

hoser [ Fri May 16, 2008 6:49 pm ]

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I put it in the boring machine and made a few cuts to see how much it would take to straighten the bore and remove the grooves, the deepest groove proved to be no more than .002 deep

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Author:

hoser [ Fri May 16, 2008 6:52 pm ]

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At this point we are at 3.164 and if the new piston comes the right size (should measure 3.156) I have .008 left to cut off the bore and .004 more to hone.

You will need a 533P2 Wiseco piston kit .

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Author:	Sunblock [ Fri May 16, 2008 7:57 pm ]
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Thanks Hoser, you are the Man!! Great pics too. I didn't even realize the exhaust bridge had been relieved. I am working on the piston, glad it only needed a 533P2.

Author:	hoser [ Fri May 16, 2008 8:01 pm ]
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mike25 wrote: Thanks Hoser, you are the Man!! Great pics too. I didn't even realize the exhaust bridge had been relieved. I am working on the piston, glad it only needed a 533P2. More info on the relief http://pilotodyssey.com/ExhaustBridgeRelief.htm

Author:

hoser [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:46 pm ]

Post subject:

Your cylinder is finished, sorta, I only realized your piston is a wiseco defect when I was DONE and putting it in the box for shipping. http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?p=33545

Anyways I fished boring your cylinder then honed, I also remove the head studs and lapped the top of your cylinder to ensure its flat, the match between the exhaust manifold and cylinder was not great so I touched it up a little so it matches better, reinstalled the studs, relieved the exhaust bridge, drilled the cooling holes in the JUNK piston.

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Author:

hoser [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 2:49 pm ]

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In a PM you asked about drilling the holes so when I did your piston I took some pics, I used Loneriders (thanks) spare bottom end and installed your piston with no rings, then install your cylinder so I can mark where the exhaust bridge is on the piston, then remove the piston and drill the holes per the wiseco instructions, I also debured the piston.

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Author:	Sunblock [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:19 pm ]
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great hoser, thanks a ton, you are the man. I will play with the piston when it gets here, hopefully it will be ok. I am getting ready to paint the frame, more pics to come soon.

Author:	hoser [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:41 pm ]
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mike25 wrote: great hoser, thanks a ton, you are the man. I will play with the piston when it gets here, hopefully it will be ok. I am getting ready to paint the frame, more pics to come soon. I guess since the wiseco guy insist that's a new design and not a reject I will be shipping it back to you tomorrow, with the exception of cleaning the parts before assembling it will be ready to go when you get it IE the holes are drilled.

Author:	Sunblock [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:46 pm ]
Post subject:
hoser wrote: I guess since the wiseco guy insist that's a new design and not a reject I will be shipping it back to you tomorrow, with the exception of cleaning the parts before assembling it will be ready to go when you get it IE the holes are drilled. Nice, thx again hoser. That should put me right on schedule.

Author:	stix [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:
When are you coming to OKC? Looks like you rebuils is coming along quite well.

Author:	rooky [ Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:35 am ]
Post subject:	clearance
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Author:	hoser [ Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:09 am ]
Post subject:	Re: clearance
rooky wrote: hoser wrote: At this point we are at 3.164 and if the new piston comes the right size (should measure 3.156) I have .008 left to cut off the bore and .004 more to hone. You will need a 533P2 Wiseco piston kit . You are leaving .020 clearance? Reckin you'll get a little slap with that Hoser? 3.164 + .012 = 3.176.......... Piston 3.156, leaves .020 clearance......You are .008 bigger than the piston now..... If you got the numbers reversed, then you will only be leaving .004 on a 350 with a wiseco...Little snug, don't ya think?Service limit on a Honda piston is .0069 ....If a Honda piston can run that loose, a swelling wiseco should have no problem at .006 or .007.........If you run .004, that thing will sieze first good run..... haha yep typo, its set at .004 as wiseco box states.

Author:	King Kx [ Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:10 pm ]
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Unless they have changed the alloy content in their "new" piston, then that clearence should be .005" min. The 350 air cooled will last longer with a .007" clearance. (less prone to heat seizures) The bridge needs to be relieved .004". I don't ever remember seeing ANY wiseco piston with a spec of less than .005" in the past, in either air cooled, liquid cooled or automotive applications. A quick finish hone will bring it right up to the .005" if desired. Is that your own personal boring bar or do you have access to one? Set up just for small engines, come with all the torque plates for honing multi cylinder blocks?

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