Hey guy's,

I'm slowly making changes to my machine & I'll photograph the progress & post them here as I go.

Firstly, a few pics & questions.

This Parking Brake Base is broken, where can I get one or who has one laying around they may like to lose? & be willing to ship it to me. ; )


What type/brand of clutch is this? I'm guessing it's a stockie. I've looked at the Comet 94C as a replacement.



My unfortunate head. Hoping to get a watercooled version when funds become more readily available.



Here's my first change. The previous owner added an angled plate to lower the suspension & I'm putting it back where it belongs. The shock was basically set higher up through the fender to lower it's C of G for speedway racing. The white tubes on the rear are also being removed.







More to come later.

We all like pics and projects. Thanks for sharing. Dibs on the cherry bomb. Just kidding use it for when things go wrong and smack it with a BFH( big fricken hammer) it will make you fill better. Heck it took me a couple of years to restore mine then I just hacked it up for something to do and see if I could put it back together again. To much humpty dumty as a kid I guess. Have fun.

I think that part for your parking brake cable is still available from honda.
Bob

The white stubs out the back were most likely used for a bumber! Might come in handy one day! I am lookoing forward to speed chasers bumper when he gets time to work on one!!!

Yeah, maybe, but, stupid Service Honda won't ship outside the US.

The white stubs are a little dangerous & I won't be racing it, so, I have no need for them.

Were are you located?

Australia.

P.M Baz, he gets parts . Maybe he can give advise

Spcled1(my BuggyPimpDaddy) gets my parts for me Mozzy,we would have to ask him.
Ed you there?

I've ordered a few things through cwwiedmaier & he checks availability of parts & that was one (the handbrake thing)I asked about & apparently it's discontinued.

He's sending me 2 sets fenders, a Power Pros Exhaust System & a handbrake cable.

I've also just had delivered new front tyres & rims are coming ITP polished alloys fronts only, sourced locally, unfortunately, I can't get the rears for a few months ITP T-9 .190 alloy wheel rim 4/130 10x8 3-5.

Trying to arrange a roof panel & airbox through chris_m_4, I need to pay him for those.

Also bought a 94c Duster clutch, new drive belt & unifilter from ebay.

& a decal set which I received today.

Got a vague question about the transmission. I was out driving & the trans heated up & seized albeit, only temporarily till it cooled down & was fine after that.

Any ideas what the cause could be? It has oil, I already checked that. Thanks.

Moz are you sure it was'nt the rear caliper seizing when hot?
You need to change your oil if not already done,and see what colour it is.
If it has a shimmering silver grey emulsion,then chances are the bearings are spinning in the Alu case houseings.

I am curious-where did you purchase the decals set from Ebay?what was included in it?

From here, these are exactly what I bought.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-Hon ... 0111059692

They have these too for you lucky Pilot owners.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-90- ... 0110724608


Baz, it wasn't the disc I checked it, cause, that was the first thing I thought of & the oil is a silvery grey colour. If the bearings arespinning, they'll have to be replaced won't they?

Also, is it possible to get the clutch off & on without a puller or removing the Engine?

I received my clutch, Uni filter & Dayco drive belt which says it's for a snowmobile???

BTW, has anyone seen chris_m_4 around lately? I need to sort out this airbox & roof panel transaction with him.

Yes you need to Service your trans. A stitch in time!.........Saves $$$ and some of the parts are Disc!
Being a 23yr ol buggy,with unknown history,MOST are spinning the bearings in the cases,and if not,they will be soon.
They are not blessed like the mighty Pilot with a Slip Clutch in the trans to Fuse-out with inertia-shock loads when jumping.
There is a" Loctite 660 Quick Metal ,Retaining Compound" (you can buy in a small squeeze tube)This is what I use to retain the bearings.
If you need any trans parts,I have a Full serviced one here that I had as a spare,OR I can get a bloke I know to machine up any gears/shafts your after.No need to send yours for copy,as I have kept all my parts for this reason.I also have left,a couple of the OEM Reverse gear bearings,you can't get em anymore-OEM.
Also if you do service your trans,make SURE you take out the ball n spring in the shift fork! Most don't,and regret it later(I did more than once) when it slips into neutral at hight revs.Scares the crap outa ya,plus is real bad for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) cause it's NOT under load and everythings rattly.

Bugger, I was hoping to avoid this.

Oh well, if it has to be done. I might as well pull out the Engine & change the clutch too.

Crap, this thing is turning out to be a costly exercise afterall.

Yeah, I know you have a reco'd one there, but, I honestly just can't afford it, Baz.

Will the Pilot trans work in the 350?

Thanks anyway.

Mozzy wrote..."""Also, is it possible to get the clutch off & on without a puller or removing the Engine?
I received my clutch, Uni filter & Dayco drive belt which says it's for a snowmobile???
BTW, has anyone seen chris_m_4 around lately? I need to sort out this airbox & roof panel transaction with him"""


Hey Mozzy,I bought my FL350's last year and i can tell you all the work you are doing will be well worth it when you get behind the "wheel" and take your first cruise around a dune bowl in the down unda, so hang in there!!It is easiest to use an impact gun to remove the clutch bolt. If you prefer to use a wrench or ratchet, there are ways to hold the piston from moving by dropping nylon rope into the spark plug hole to wedge the piston against the rope and head but I have never tried it and since I have never tried it I wouldn't recommend it , I like new tools so I went out and bought a cheap 650ft/lb impact gun, although I had to hit the bolt with about 400 to break it loose the first time, now it only takes about half that. Then once the bolt is removed you have to use a clutch removal tool and bolt, Im not sure what to use on the stockie clutch but Comet does have a puller kit for your 94c which I would reccommend buying, yea I know more stuff to buy , What part number is on your Dayco belt, 1042,3004, GTS725(snowmobile), these are all good Dayco part numbers for the FL350 belt. Good luck mate

chris_m_4 has been around-got email from him yesterday in fact.

All good, I got a PM from him, he said his workload has been killing him, so, no stress.


Yep, HP3004 Max1042 is the belt.

I was a bit concerned as my 350 is certainly no snowmobile!!

This machine will only be used in the forest as we don't have dunes anywhere near hear like they do in West Aussie & South Aussie

I think that a brushless motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) would be 100 times better than the stock motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).
No rebuilding required.
Totally sealed from dirt & water.
Produces much more power for the same amount of voltage as the stock motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) would draw, therefore & smaller motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) can be used to reduce the weight.

Anyone looked at doing a conversion?


I play with RC cars as well & have converted all my nitro's to brushless power. Twice as fast, superior reliability & 4 times the run time.

I'll do some investigation.

Firstly though, what's the rpm of the stock starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?

How many amps does it draw?

&
What torque is required to comfortably crank over a 350 motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?

Those of you that don't know BL motors, they usually have a KV (kilovolt) rating, which means for example, a 500kv motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) powered by 12v is 500RPM per volt. So, 12v x 500 = 6000RPM.

They also produce much higher torque than a brushed motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for less power consumption which equals longer battery life.

Update:

New front wheels & tyres.

Veeeeerrrryyyy scary trying to seat the beads as on the tyre it says max pressure 15psi to seat & I had to pump them up to approx 25-30psi!! I thought they were going to explode!

These rims make the front track wider due to the offset.








Now I gotta get the rears.

Wear gloves those offset rims is going to make every little bump and rut in the trail try to RIP THE STEERING YOKE out of your hands, hopefully your strong so you don't need stitches or cast on your wrist...

How much you want for your stock Honda front rims?

The front stockies will be going to my brother to replace the speedway set up on his till he gets new rims & tyres or adapts the wheels from his LT250 to his 350 ody.

We'll probably keep them as spares & they aren't the gold ones either, well, unless they were painted grey.

My front arms are grey, I was thinking of stripping them back & getting them powder coated. probably won't though, cause, I'm too lazy & strapped for cash.

Well, I managed to get the rear tyres through a friend & the rims from Rockymountain.

Wow, those rears look meaty. They should get good traction in the woods. The offset in front effect scrub angle. If you draw a line done thu the center of the upper and lower ball joint the line where it hits the ground is zero then measure from there to center of tire. Closer to zero the better. I see you choose 21 " tall. if you were to to go 22 or 23 it would reduce that scrub angle and help steering. One other thing about taller tires is a greater ground clearence for woods riding getting over obtacles. You can change to a toe in setting to help for woods. Negitive about offset is width in tight spots. It does look pretty mean from front.

I've drained my 'grey' transmission oil & was wondering if I could replace it with either gear oil or LSD gear oil?

I know the LSD oil doesn't get affected by heat & the viscosity remains the same throughout the temps.

The manual says Honda 4 stroke oil or equivalent. Does it have to be?

The rear tyres are 25/12-10.