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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
Evening all. I did read thru the Facebook thread to make sure I wasn't mentioned by name before posting. lol... I had a 250 back in the day and have wanted another Odyssey ever since I sold it 30 years ago. Found this one on FB marketplace and I had to have it. Story is that it sat in storage in AZ for 20+ years. Have bill of sale from the guy in AZ dated August 2017. Guy I bought it from had it for less than a year and didn't know anything further. Appears to me that everything is original 1985 less the air filter, battery and tires. Overall pretty amazing shape but needs some love in a few areas. Trying to decide now if I want to just do what needs to be done and leave it original or to disassemble and restore. I'm leaning toward not restoring it which goes against what I would usually do but it's nice enough that leaving it pretty much as is has some merit. I'll mostly be riding open country. Feel like it it performs as it should in factory trim I'd be happy with it.

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I have printed the service manual. It runs but not great. Won't idle in gear. Friend that speaks 2 stroke coming next week to go thru the carb and give the Engine the once over. Front brakes are nonexistent. All 4 wheels are dinged. Right rear fender has mounting points broken. Foot tub is cracked. Not too concerned about those. I'm in the body shop business so I'll plastic weld them at work. Fenders are all faded but I'm going to try to sand and polish them. Seat has come cracks in the bottom. Axles, tire rods, ball joints etc... all seem to be in good shape.

I'm going to start to work thru the mechanical issues tomorrow with the front brakes and go from there. The biggest dilemma is still the debate about leaving it unrestored or going all in. What say you? Restore it? Maintenance it up and leave it in survivor status? Cut it up and do long travel and a sled motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 2:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:45 am
Posts: 252
Location: South Haven, MI
Nice score, looks like that unit even when ridden was babied! I personally with such a nice unit would go through it mechanically but don’t think I would be restoring it.

Long travel on the front makes the unit a great deal more fun in my opinion. Several options for rear shocks that will also save your back. Works is a great option but expensive. Curtis (another member) has a great kit, and a great thread for transition to fox 2.0 shocks for the rear.

Enjoy the new baby, lots of very knowledgeable and helpful people on this site!

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Welcome new guy.

Oh my !!
I see a trailer queen there.
That machine appears to not have been abused.
I see: A front bumper that is not damaged so that's the first clue. I also see original front bumper end caps. The stop switch on steering wheel, wrist restraints, glass on lights and seat belts are not sun faded so that tells me it was kept indoors most of its life. The Honda decals on the main bar are not rubbed of on either side so that tells me not much action on it. Has the angled fin cylinder head so this is a post recall Engine. Look for an "X" stamped into the gearbox next to the fill cap and that will tell you if it is a post recall transmission. Look for an stamped at the end of the serial number to indicate Engine recall was done, but it has the angle head so I am sure it is there. I see bolts on battery box and else where that are not rusted so again this indicates a trailer queen kept indoors. Top cage and roof lid is not bent so this machine has not been rolled. Mirrors are not broken so another indication it was not rolled. It has no shock savers so this seller was not from this site. I see in a photo you posted in another thread of your mini bike that the oddy front wheels are cambered. That tells me the J arm bushings are shot. You can tell by jacking it up and grabbing the top and bottom of wheel and pull/push the top of wheel in and out. If you got a lot of play there then the bushings are toast -- it's #17 below.

Don't even start this thing again until you have done the things on the check list below.
The number one thing is to test the fuel flow on that original pump. You will blow an Engine.
The other thing I must warn you about is FUEL OCTANE. It is a contentious issue here. There are many threads on blown engines. I personally (as well as 50% of the people here) run avgas or race gas or a mix of avgas and pump fuel. The oddy Engine is behind a seat and gets limited air flow. This elevates the intake charge temperature as well as the Engine and it detonates pump fuel. Your on your own pal if you don't heed this warning.

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one. 14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold

And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.

Edit: DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it is just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow yours you're done. It's over because you can't get these parts anymore.

You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/


By the way nice oddy. Check it over closely and drive it. What good is a trailer queen ??


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
MGurgone40 wrote:
Nice score, looks like that unit even when ridden was babied! I personally with such a nice unit would go through it mechanically but don’t think I would be restoring it.

Long travel on the front makes the unit a great deal more fun in my opinion. Several options for rear shocks that will also save your back. Works is a great option but expensive. Curtis (another member) has a great kit, and a great thread for transition to fox 2.0 shocks for the rear.

Enjoy the new baby, lots of very knowledgeable and helpful people on this site!

Mike


Thanks Mike. I'm certainly leaning towards doing what it needs mechanically, cleaning thoroughly and leaving it in survivor status. "They are only original once" has never been my concern as I have pretty much ripped apart, cut up and modified everything I've ever owned but this one is so nice as is I feel like it would be an injustice not to leave it.

Terry


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Terry,
Nice to see you joined us here!

I have a pilot that I feel the same way about. I really want to mod it but I just cant bring myself change it from it's OEM glory. I will look for another to modify while keeping my current one all original.

You have been bit by the buggy bug now, so its all over for you as well. :-)

Go through CO's checklist for sure. Any questions, just ask.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
canadian oddy wrote:
Welcome new guy.

Oh my !!
I see a trailer queen there.
That machine appears to not have been abused.
I see: A front bumper that is not damaged so that's the first clue. I also see original front bumper end caps. The stop switch on steering wheel, wrist restraints, glass on lights and seat belts are not sun faded so that tells me it was kept indoors most of its life. The Honda decals on the main bar are not rubbed of on either side so that tells me not much action on it. Has the angled fin cylinder head so this is a post recall Engine. Look for an "X" stamped into the gearbox next to the fill cap and that will tell you if it is a post recall transmission. Look for an stamped at the end of the serial number to indicate Engine recall was done, but it has the angle head so I am sure it is there. I see bolts on battery box and else where that are not rusted so again this indicates a trailer queen kept indoors. Top cage and roof lid is not bent so this machine has not been rolled. Mirrors are not broken so another indication it was not rolled. It has no shock savers so this seller was not from this site. I see in a photo you posted in another thread of your mini bike that the oddy front wheels are cambered. That tells me the J arm bushings are shot. You can tell by jacking it up and grabbing the top and bottom of wheel and pull/push the top of wheel in and out. If you got a lot of play there then the bushings are toast -- it's #17 below.

Don't even start this thing again until you have done the things on the check list below.
The number one thing is to test the fuel flow on that original pump. You will blow an Engine.
The other thing I must warn you about is FUEL OCTANE. It is a contentious issue here. There are many threads on blown engines. I personally (as well as 50% of the people here) run avgas or race gas or a mix of avgas and pump fuel. The oddy Engine is behind a seat and gets limited air flow. This elevates the intake charge temperature as well as the Engine and it detonates pump fuel. Your on your own pal if you don't heed this warning.

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one. 14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold

And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.

Edit: DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it is just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow yours you're done. It's over because you can't get these parts anymore.

You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/


By the way nice oddy. Check it over closely and drive it. What good is a trailer queen ??


Thanks CO! Unfortunately some of what you listed had already been bypassed before it came to me. After it being stored for all those years, the guy that bought it did the very minimum to get it operational. No idea of how much it has been run since then. The guy I got it from gave me a partial quart of mix oil that the previous owner gave him so I'm guessing that it hasn't had more than a couple of gallons run thru it since it was rescued from storage.

I'm going to start thru the check list today and go from there. I have the manual downloaded, printed and in a ring binder. I have premium pump fuel mixed 32:1 now but I haven't put it in the machine. Very little fuel in it now. Clueless of what it is or the mix. Smells fresh but definitely not race fuel. The tank looks pristine on the inside. Some of the fuel and vacuum lines have already been changed already but I'm going to change all the lines so I know they are all good. Front end needs work as you predicted.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
CurtisR401 wrote:
Terry,
Nice to see you joined us here!

I have a pilot that I feel the same way about. I really want to mod it but I just cant bring myself change it from it's OEM glory. I will look for another to modify while keeping my current one all original.

You have been bit by the buggy bug now, so its all over for you as well. :-)

Go through CO's checklist for sure. Any questions, just ask.


Thanks Curtis! I think you've got the answer. The more I look at this one the more I realize it's just too nice and too original to bust totally apart and modify or even fully restore. I want to get it mechanically sound and as good as I can cosmetically leaving the original parts on it and call it good. I'm not opposed to grabbing another one and going crazy. I've had many, many hobbies/projects over the years so the wife is used to it by now. lol...


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
Well... you already finished the hardest part, getting the wife on board! :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:18 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
CurtisR401 wrote:
Well... you already finished the hardest part, getting the wife on board! :-)


lol... yes. This will be our 35th year and trust me she is more than used to it. There is always some project, some hobby some fill in your own blank going on with me. She says I'm "better" when I have a project. Not sure exactly what that means but I get to have toys so all good with me.

A little hint of how deep and wide.. this is my home shop...

Image

Couple of previous projects...

Electric powered dragster. 6.54 @ 102 1/8th mile on a golf cart rear end and motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

Image

43 mph "regular" electric golf cart on air, 4 wheel hydraulic discs, custom built cage and so on..

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I shoot NRA high power so gotta have a reloading room and cool rifles...

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1996 mostly original but slammed 454 dually..

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Ongoing mini bike project...

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I apologize daily for her marrying a crazy person.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
HAHAHA I often wonder how I ended up with my wife as well, or... how she ended up with me. :-)

That is awesome and I hope to get there myself one day. Guns, race cars, buggys, merrica! You got it all.

You have some great toys, tools, and projects. I like to keep my mind occupied on projects as well, keeps the super crazy at bay.

That electric dragster has got to be a hoot!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 11:03 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
CurtisR401 wrote:
HAHAHA I often wonder how I ended up with my wife as well, or... how she ended up with me. :-)

That is awesome and I hope to get there myself one day. Guns, race cars, buggys, merrica! You got it all.

You have some great toys, tools, and projects. I like to keep my mind occupied on projects as well, keeps the super crazy at bay.

That electric dragster has got to be a hoot!


The dragster was a very challenging project. We blew up a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) on every single pass for a couple of years before we figured out how to make the little golf cart motors live for 3 or 4 passes on 240 volts and 2000 amps. If our data is correct, the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) that made 3 hp stock made 270 hp on the 100+ mph passes. Nothing left stock but the case though. Powered by 30 lithium cobalt drone batteries. I sold it a couple of years ago. It's sitting in storage in South Carolina waiting on a golf cart museum to be finished.

Glimpse of the the battery modules and the pack. The Pack is 11" x 13" x 9" and weighs 55 lbs.

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 11:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
Is there a one stop shop for all the necessary new bearings, bushings, seals etc... to rebuild the front end. I see the @speedchaser bushing kits. Other pieces at oddatv.com. Can one buy shock bushings? The lower bushing are gone. What about the ball joints? Are they even replaceable?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 11:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:51 pm
Posts: 816
Location: Palm Coast Florida
That is one clean Odyssey, nice shop too.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 11:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
liduno wrote:
That is one clean Odyssey, nice shop too.


Thanks! We built the shop 25 years ago when we bought the house. Been working in it and on it ever since.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 3:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
WOW lots of cool stuff there. Love the electric dragster. A couple of members here from England that are into electric stuff. One guy jcc wanted to build an electric Pilot. He did not complete.
Looking at a picture of your shop is see a lot of wood working equipment. That tells me you are a cabinet maker or own a cabinet business. Nice milling machine and you got the same metal band saw I got. Cheap but effective.

TerryH wrote:
Is there a one stop shop for all the necessary new bearings, bushings, seals etc... to rebuild the front end.

NO

TerryH wrote:
I see the @speedchaser bushing kits. Other pieces at oddatv.com. Can one buy shock bushings? The lower bushing are gone.

Unfortunately Speed don't show up very often here anymore. He was here two weeks ago but don't comment. You might want to PM him for any info. I don't know if he is still making oddy parts.
Go to the members section and click on his name. There will be a button there to PM (private message) him. Click on it.

TerryH wrote:
What about the ball joints? Are they even replaceable?

No they are not but here is how I fixed mine: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17888&hilit=ball+joint

For parts look here:
https://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/c/honda/parts
Sometimes is comes up "error 404 page not found". Don't worry about it, just click on factory parts tab - Honda - then type in your part number.
https://oddatv.com/
https://www.partzilla.com/
You get u-joints from these guys: https://www.powertrainindustries.com/about.htm
You get ball joint boots from these guys: http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp? ... dust+boots
You can also try the for sale section here on this site.

Below is a pdf parts book with part numbers, and also a pdf on pressure testing a two stroke.


Attachments:
fl350 parts book.pdf [2.35 MiB]
Downloaded 792 times
2 stroke pressure testing.pdf [314.03 KiB]
Downloaded 429 times
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
The beginning of the disassembly and cleaning is in the books. No real surprises. The brake issue is the front side of the master cylinder is dead so will rebuild it along with pretty much everything on the front end. Still need to figure out the best place to source all those parts. Engine analysis will be next on Monday night. I did verify that the fuel tank is clean. I'm headed to the auto parts store to buy new fuel line etc...

Image

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Some days OCD is a good thing. lol... Everything bagged and tagged.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
canadian oddy wrote:
WOW lots of cool stuff there. Love the electric dragster. A couple of members here from England that are into electric stuff. One guy jcc wanted to build an electric Pilot. He did not complete.
Looking at a picture of your shop is see a lot of wood working equipment. That tells me you are a cabinet maker or own a cabinet business. Nice milling machine and you got the same metal band saw I got. Cheap but effective.

TerryH wrote:
Is there a one stop shop for all the necessary new bearings, bushings, seals etc... to rebuild the front end.

NO

TerryH wrote:
I see the @speedchaser bushing kits. Other pieces at oddatv.com. Can one buy shock bushings? The lower bushing are gone.

Unfortunately Speed don't show up very often here anymore. He was here two weeks ago but don't comment. You might want to PM him for any info. I don't know if he is still making oddy parts.
Go to the members section and click on his name. There will be a button there to PM (private message) him. Click on it.

TerryH wrote:
What about the ball joints? Are they even replaceable?

No they are not but here is how I fixed mine: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17888&hilit=ball+joint

For parts look here:
https://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/c/honda/parts
Sometimes is comes up "error 404 page not found". Don't worry about it, just click on factory parts tab - Honda - then type in your part number.
https://oddatv.com/
https://www.partzilla.com/
You get u-joints from these guys: https://www.powertrainindustries.com/about.htm
You get ball joint boots from these guys: http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp? ... dust+boots
You can also try the for sale section here on this site.

Below is a pdf parts book with part numbers, and also a pdf on pressure testing a two stroke.


Thank you! I'm actually in the body shop business. Pic is my home shop. I have a couple metal lathes, MIG welder, welding table, cold cut saw, portaband on a Swag table, etc... so do some metal fab along with the wood.

Image

Image

I saved a listing for the J arm bushings on Ebay that I believe is Speedchaser. I'll order those.

Upon further review today, the ball joints seem to be the least of the issues so I'll likely just clean and relube and move on. Wheel bearings are shot. Plenty available on Ebay. Tie rod ends are tight. So I feel like the J arm bushings and the wheel bearing should put the front in good working order.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
With regards to those J arm bushings I need to warn you right now that you must have a very clean internal J arm surface. There was a member here who put Speeds bushings in and then had an issue with the J arm not moving at all -- it seized. It turns out that he just pounded out his old ones and then put in Speeds new ones. That's NOT how you do it. I believe Speed makes his slightly longer than the originals for more stability and holding but the dimension's are correct to factory specs except the length. There is a thread on it and I will post it here if I find it.

Edit: Oh it was Curtis, he was new LOL -- here it is: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17769&hilit=bushings+speedchaser+J+arm


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:48 pm
Posts: 873
Are you on Facebook? I know half the planet hates it and the other half doesn’t use it, but there is a guy on there named Derek Tisinger and he has a ton of new and used parts. I have bought stuff from him and the parts are in excellent shape and he normally ships the same day payment is received. He raced odys and pilots starting in the 80’s and picked up a ton of parts. When Triple E called it quits he bought everything Ed had. If you don’t do Facebook here is his number, give him a call 16617475796. Tell him you heard he had parts for sale. The guy knows a lot about these buggy’s. He even has a pipe builder if you are looking for one.
Bob


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
canadian oddy wrote:
With regards to those J arm bushings I need to warn you right now that you must have a very clean internal J arm surface. There was a member here who put Speeds bushings in and then had an issue with the J arm not moving at all -- it seized. It turns out that he just pounded out his old ones and then put in Speeds new ones. That's NOT how you do it. I believe Speed makes his slightly longer than the originals for more stability and holding but the dimension's are correct to factory specs except the length. There is a thread on it and I will post it here if I find it.

Edit: Oh it was Curtis, he was new LOL -- here it is: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17769&hilit=bushings+speedchaser+J+arm


I read Curtis's thread last night when I was obsessing...er...I mean researching.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
Rppjr wrote:
Are you on Facebook? I know half the planet hates it and the other half doesn’t use it, but there is a guy on there named Derek Tisinger and he has a ton of new and used parts. I have bought stuff from him and the parts are in excellent shape and he normally ships the same day payment is received. He raced odys and pilots starting in the 80’s and picked up a ton of parts. When Triple E called it quits he bought everything Ed had. If you don’t do Facebook here is his number, give him a call 16617475796. Tell him you heard he had parts for sale. The guy knows a lot about these buggy’s. He even has a pipe builder if you are looking for one.
Bob


Hi Bob. Thanks. I am on FB. I saw his name come up in the Odyssey groups. I talked to him yesterday about a few pieces that were broken or missing. He definitely knows these things inside and out!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2015 7:23 am
Posts: 420
Location: Pennsylvania
Man I love the organization in your shop.....

Saw your new buggy on FB the other day, I commented about your front bumper rubbers... Good Luck. You officially have been bitten by the oddy bug.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 6:33 pm
Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
canadian oddy wrote:
With regards to those J arm bushings I need to warn you right now that you must have a very clean internal J arm surface. There was a member here who put Speeds bushings in and then had an issue with the J arm not moving at all -- it seized. It turns out that he just pounded out his old ones and then put in Speeds new ones. That's NOT how you do it. I believe Speed makes his slightly longer than the originals for more stability and holding but the dimension's are correct to factory specs except the length. There is a thread on it and I will post it here if I find it.

Edit: Oh it was Curtis, he was new LOL -- here it is: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17769&hilit=bushings+speedchaser+J+arm


Yes I did install them way wrong, doh, lesson learned!

How about some NOS for ya, At a great price as well... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Honda-ODY ... ctupt=true


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
CurtisR401 wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
With regards to those J arm bushings I need to warn you right now that you must have a very clean internal J arm surface. There was a member here who put Speeds bushings in and then had an issue with the J arm not moving at all -- it seized. It turns out that he just pounded out his old ones and then put in Speeds new ones. That's NOT how you do it. I believe Speed makes his slightly longer than the originals for more stability and holding but the dimension's are correct to factory specs except the length. There is a thread on it and I will post it here if I find it.

Edit: Oh it was Curtis, he was new LOL -- here it is: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17769&hilit=bushings+speedchaser+J+arm


Yes I did install them way wrong, doh, lesson learned!

How about some NOS for ya, At a great price as well... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Honda-ODY ... ctupt=true


Hmmm.... I might have bought those if I'd seen them before I bought the one's from Speedchaser.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:15 am
Posts: 435
Location: Springdale, AR
Seems every project breeds a new tool. I usually just wash with recycled lacquer thinner from work but with the doors all closed because it's 20 degrees and a snow storm going on outside I was about to asphyxiate. Decided I "had" to have a parts washer. Ran out the local Tractor Supply and picked me one up. Seems like a decent unit for $140. 'Course I had to buy $80 worth of solvent to go with it. :shock:

Image


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