On most output shafts there is a big nut that holds the CV cup on. I would think this is what you have and it just some how came loose. I can't thnk of how it could have come loose though.

Filters look good except water still going to get you. My Drakart has the same problem with the filters. I need to do a custom fiberglass airbox except I'm just to dam lazy.

Tom

Filling the carb bowls with fuel SUCKS when you just have a pull start! Got my heart pumpin.

Install a marine/boat type hand squeeze primer bladder,or what I do is,get a big syringe and fill the carb thru the fuel tube inlet spigot.Gets instant starts,saves your battery,and keeps the eng from lube drying.

I don't really ride anywhere that crosses water, I mostly go to dumont or glamis sand dunes. When I go to pismo once a year, I throw a tarp over everything at night to avoid condensation and water issues.

I actually have an electric fuel pump I was thinking of putting on, which would help hard starts, but I want to "test the waters" as far as the pump goes now.

The CV's look like there is a small hole drilled through it, I am pretty sure when I pull the CV off, there will be a hole through the output shaft as well which I will simply need to slide a bolt through, similar to a fl350.

Most electric pumps will be to strong for the carbs and create more problems than you are trying to solve. On all my toys with a vaccumme fuel pump I install a primer knob. Cost is about $20 and it saves a lot of pulling of the recoil when you have empty bowls.

Is there a specific brand or style that you recommend?Primer knob that is.

I like this style
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... 104&mmyId=

There is no rubber bulb to break or leak.

I don't know if the electric pump would provide enough pressure actually, that is why I am reluctant to try it out. I ran an electric pump on my fl350 with a mikuni carb and it ran fine, but am not sure how it would do with 2 carbs. I might try out a pump primer like that one, I have seen them before. Thanks for the advice on that one!

Called Ed today at EEE, he told me there should be 4 set screws in the hubs. I have seen the holes before, but didnt realize they were threaded because they were so covered in grease. Took the right side apart just to inspect it, found what was going on, put it back together with some set screws, hopefully it will solve the problem. Will keep you posted after we go ride next wednesday. Also moved the air filters out, away from the radiator hose.

My Drak is vacuum powered and I think it works fantastic. It can be completely drained, fuel pump and lines and start pumping gas to the bowls in 2 to 3 pulls on the pull start.

Wonder if your's was just spent. I like the vacuum only because if my Engine would die I want the fuel to stop pumping. To each thier own.

Tom

Fabricate some support for the air filters so they cant wont fall off the carbs, its a easy fix you can run a 1/4" bolt and washer through the end from the inside out then apply lock tite and snug it up not to crush the rubber then you have a stud on the outside you can run through a bracket to support it .

Good advice, shoubadaba and I were going to fab something up for support. He has a welder, we were thinking of just welding something across from each of the metal extensions I used, then running a brace down from that. There is a nice spot on the trans we can bolt it to.

Took the buggy out for its first trip. I am sorry to say that I am pretty dissapointed. At first, Rusty (shoubadaba) and I got the jetting dialed in for the most part, we went to the middle clip position on both needles as opposed to the top position, we changed the main jets out from 200's to 220's, and these changes made the car come to life in the mid and high range, but it still dogs off the line. I was pretty impressed when shoubadaba was driving the car across a lake bed and I was on my yfz450 and could not catch him in 5th gear! I thought I would pass him in 4th like I do with his pilot, but I was dead wrong. Also, adding the set screws to the brake hubs cured the problems with the brakes, I can lock the tires up on command!
So that was the good, as for the bad, well...
#1) the car wont turn to save your life. Steering radius sucks on it so bad that I was constantly hitting bushes and stuff and having to back the car up to be able to turn around.
#2) it is a PITA to fit it in my trailer with the RZR-S, but I can work around that issue pretty much
#3) the lack of low end power, gonna try my flat slide carbs next time
#4) caught a sharp rock to the sidewall of the front left tire, left a nice gash so had to park it just when I got to really start to ride it
#5) rear shocks SUCK ASS!!!!!!!!!! but I knew that would be the case, all that will take is a few bucks to cure
#6) worst of all, the tranny kept spitting oil out of the breather. We assumed it was just over-filled and dealt with the issue, well, when I fired the car up to drive it to the back of my trailer today, it seemed like it was stuck in neutral. Dropped it in reverse, motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) wound up, car didnt move. Messed with it for a while, gave up and pushed it up the ramp, dissapointed.

Well, looks like I have some issues to work on, will keep comments posted as then unravel...whoogh

Is the front end adjustable. maybe add caster and some negitive camber or change shock settings, you will or should get negitve camber also by adding caster. how is the roll stiffness. to much body roll will take cornoring traction off the front tires by adding vertical load to them due to the lateral force increse due to roll anlge. Got any info on front end.

The only thing adjustable on the front end is toe. The buggy is a GEN1 so it has single A-Arm front with a fixed camber front spindle. You cant adjust caster or kick up either. The shocks are set on the softest setting, but they actually feel just about right as far as ride comfort and body roll goes. The front toe is set about 1/4'' in. The rear seems to be toed out, i havent measured it as of yet, and the sucky thing is that the rear is non-adjustable as well. You cant adjust camber, caster, toe, etc... I honestly think that if I get this buggy on a track I will get spanked by pilots and such due to the lack of steering, but you never know, I may just do a 5-link on the rear and see what happens, yeah, maybe in 20 years or so!

Bummer. I think a toe out in the rea is bad. I do believe it should be toed in at least a 1/8 to 1/4". I know nothing about these cars but independant rear is independant rear. Curious about the push. Does it push on entry after breking for cornor or push during cornor using trial breaking. Does it change over to ovesteer (coming aound) mid or late exit under accerlation. With the shock removed does the front go negative camber on bump( compression) with the wheels turned. I think theres is a guy going to LS nextweekend with the same car I will look over never seen one. I enjoy looking over new stuff to see what makes them tick. I know I would to pull my buudy on his YFZ. The best I can do is take him in fourth. When he hits fifth hes gone and I'am eating sand as I try to break off throttle with thumb and ducking. The best I can do is 50 with the pilot in the sand. Does the car ride smoother than the pilot.

Thank Rich.

I drove the car a bit and it rides way smother then a stock pilot by far. The steering sucks bad. It pushes into a turn fast or slow only if you slam the brakes and try to break the tires free in the rear will it turn tight. I think its the front wheels being put on the oposite way. I think what will fix the problem is a 1/4" of toe out on both wheels new tires and rims with the correct offset.

Shoubadaba and I tore the trans apart tonight, it is toast. Pics to come. Tons of metal shavings from 2 bolts that sheared off and messed up the center gear. Guess I need to contact comet and start spending some money. Good news is I can use a few parts from the spare trans like the drive chain and gear for reverse and the F-N-R selector hardware. There is really only one gear that NEEDS to be replaced and of course it is welded to the center shaft for a "stronger" transmission....Think I might be regreting selling 2 fl350's for this EEE car...

i'll buy it from ya, haha

Tried to call Ed at Triple EEE, he was a big JERK! I was polite, explained that I had one of his stadium lite cars and was looking for some parts for the comet trans, he simply said, "WE ARE NO LONGER IN BUSINESS!" and slammed the phone down before I could mutter anything else out.
Guess I will contact comet and see what they say.

Whoa? that's weird man, I thought Ed was a nice guy... maybe a year has changed badly.

Yeah, guess he was PMS'ing

Got some photos (that are not working at the moment, will try again later) and a video of the dissassembly process...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gjZmMPP7XQ

All I can advise is,make sure you take pics and monitor the dissasembly.
Do NOT take for the granted that the way it was put together last,was the correct way.
Make sure you have enough end play in the shafts when cases are dry bolted up again.
I once bought a 350 Ody,so called serviced trans,and when the delivery guy was at the door,I used some multi
grips to turn the shift linkage and NO go,was jammed.
Took it all apart and found that the primary shaft had a thrust washer on where it should'nt have had.Thus the binding.
Plus a gear back to front and several other misterks!
Plus the AB gear shaft had gouges in it from previous AB double gears grinding up.
Fixed all the probs and was lucky it all worked out in the end.
Check all the gear side oil grooves for effectiveness.I had some ground out deeper for more oil flow,plus extra 2 holes in the middle of the AB gear to flow to the twin bearings.

Hey Nick,
I've talked to Ed a couple times before and he was always pretty nice...not really interested in the buggies anymore though...didn't want to talk much but would answer questions I had. Maybe you caught him on a bad day. Try again in a week or 2.

I asked about my trans when I talked to him...he said something like "we used a lot of different transmissions, don't know which one you got...if you're having trouble...buy an RPM trans." That was the end of my questions

Some of the guys on here have used RPM before...I know KingKX has a RPM in his Briggs. They're pricey though...look to spend about 1/3 of what you just spent to buy the buggy on the trans.

OH - and don't worry about the turning...neither my EEE or Mark's Briggs turn worth a damn at slow speeds. Once you get them rolling...they turn like they're on rails...my Ody would whip around like nothing I've ever seen...my EEE turning radius on a slow turn is worse than my truck. I guess they weren't meant to go slow!

Brooks

Some Video of King KX in the Briggs:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wu9Kb9UQFPU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BMHLoOckp8

I talked to Ed once before as well, and he seemed sort of reluctant to get on the phone. I guess I don't really need to call him anymore since I talked to people at Quality Drive, phone number was (626) 293-5770, and they got me straightened out.
I am going to use the gears out of the spare tranny. The trans that was in the buggy had an overall ratio of 8.1:1, the gearing in my spare tranny is 10:1. I am sure this will be dead on since when I took the car out last week it had almost no bottom end power and tons of top end, the exact opposite of what I want. I ordered a gasket and talked to a person named Roy who was very helpful. He also said they were out of stock of the 54 tooth gear that I needed, but they were going to make some more. I may order one just to have another set of gears in a different ratio if I need to go back to how it was.
They also told me that they had a transmission that was very strong, about as strong as the RPM tranny, and it cost $1100 and comes set up for 930's.
Cool video as well. That Briggs car looks awesome, I like how the front end comes up when you nail the throttle! I am hoping mine will do the same eventually.

I still cant get my pictures to work. It is the strangest thing. The pics taken with my older camera work just fine, but the pics taken with my newer camera will not upload for some reason. I can attach them to email and send them to people, but they wont upload. I have even tried swapping the chip into the old camera and loading them to my computer with the old camera, but the computer actually knows which camera took the pictures originally, and it will not work.
Anyway, I am having difficulty getting back in touch with Quality Drive. I ordered a gasket for the tranny cases which came pretty fast, but now I have decided to have them replace a few bearings that are shot as well as the seals on the input shaft and axle stub shafts, but I cant get in touch with them. I have left a few messages with no return calls. Kind of frustrated and stumped at this point.
I found out a few interisting facts recently. I was at pegasus hobbies last week and was talking with Mike Owen (called Big Mike), I have known him for around 4 years. Our conversation progressed and I told him of my EEE car, and he told me he used to race a Briggs car back in the hayday of stadium racing! He was telling me a few race stories and how he knew Bob Briggs and "the guy who did all the fab work" for the Briggs cars. He said his name was "Tony." I took a short pause and asked him what his last name was, Mike didnt know right off hand, so I asked him..."Is it Stone?"...He said yup, that was correct, funny thing is....TONY STONE IS MY UNCLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have known him for all of the 29 years of my life, and i never knew that he was involved in stadium lites! I knew he was a welder who was into racing, currently he is on his buddy's crew that races 1/8th mile oval at Irwindale Speedway. You should have seen the look on Shoubadaba's face he heard Mike agree that Tony Stone was the dudes name!Easter is coming up in a few days and I will see my uncle then. Hopefully he will have some advice/information that will be useful in my conquest to get my car race ready. This should be an interisting Easter Sunday!