Picked up a little project today. Needs lots of clean up and TLC, and some re-engineering, but for the most part is in decent shape. Suspension is the tightest of the 6 I looked at. But lot's of rusty bolts to deal with, I already can't get the rear shock bolts out.
It has a 670 Rotax twin in it. Maybe too much motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for what I want but I'll get it fixed up enough to drive it the way it is and then decide if I'm gonna keep it in. I would rather have a 500 or 600 4 stroke I think.
Eventual plans are long travel A-arm front suspension that will incorporate some added wheelbase. It will get air shocks all 'round. Looking to build it up for trail riding.





What is the failure point of these transmissions? case?, shaft's?, gear's?
According to the previous owner, this thing has "lots" of hours on it with this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) in it. What should I be looking for when I open the tranny up?
Has anyone beefed them up?

I'll be needing to source a few used and new parts. Suggestions?

Exactly my point, if the fluid comes put clean and it is shifting fine, don't rip it down.The usual parts that break are the "AB GEAR"which is a shaft in the trans.I bet the main shaft in that trans may have been upgraded to handle that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) anyway-check the clutch or picture it for us to view.I see the main driven has pitting on the clutch faces, you can spend money on upgrades to that, and the suspension instead of that trans-can you post some pictures of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts, and a view of the belt between the clutches please?How is the seat as far as leg room, it seems the pipe is mounted forward where it may be a hinderence.I see the tach, can you picture the harness and the connections by chance?
That is a big motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) for a stock 350, but I bet ya it will run the pants off a quad for sure.Has the frame been gusseted in anyway?Good luck with it, keep us informed on the upgrades.

Ok a little progress. The plan of a shake down run has been changed to a teardown. Not in that much of a rush so some things need to be addressed and redone. Cracked welds on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount brackets, belt was way too tight, fuel lines are all rock hard. So 'it's now apart.

To answer some questions:

The seat was at the front of it's adjustment, I would like a little more leg room so the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) will be moved back and down. The pipe is huge, and is going to be a headache.Thumb throttle is way too stiff with the twin carbs. And I'll be using the oil injection as well, so I will likely go to a foot pedal.


To mount the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) they used the snowmobile mounting plate and vibration dampers. Good plan, less than ideal execution. I'll make a new plate that fits the a little better and relocates the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). There was a torque arm from the back of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to the gearbox on the clutch side only. You can see how the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount plate is bent up at the right rear, so it was definately torquing too much. I'll run an arm on both sides.




The tach is a plug-in to the Rotax/Denso ignition box, it works, but the temp guage is not hooked up.

As far as adding gussets/bracing to the frame.... not!! in fact some, what I would consider "important", tubes has been removed to clear the recoil on the right side, and the same has been remover on the left, but it doesn't look like it would have interfered with the clutch, so I don't know why they did that. It is a classic backyard motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap. This structure will get re-done once the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) finds it's new position and the upper shock mount are redone for the air shocks.

The air shocks I will be using are Ford Explorer. My buddy just finished his scratch build and used these shocks and they work real nice, and are inexpensive. He's doing my front a-arm set-up similar to what he did on his. If I can somehow get the Odyssey to ride and handle as well as his does I will be happy.


On the good side, the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) runs and sounds good. The tranny is smooth and quiet, no play to speak of. Rear hubs are tight.( haven't investigated the play in the front yet)
Lots to do.

Got any pics of that fuel cell on the odyssey

Steel tank, custom made to fit by the look of it. I won't be using it.

Some work done. Moved the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) back about 6". Changed the angle of the header pipe, new expansion pipe, and muffler. Move the seat back 1.5" past the rearmost stock location. Changed the shifter cable mount at the tranny to clear the carbs. Reworked and remounted the rad and hoses.
Took it for a rip up the driveway and it'll spin the tires at will on the pavement.

Took it out to my buddies place to put it through the wringer. Nothing broke, nothing fell off, got nice and dirty.
I've pretty much decided that this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is gonna get swapped out. I just don't need all that speed for the trails.
It worked great with no real issues other than a little heavy on the fuel, and heavy throttle effort. Throttle effort was way too much for a thumb lever. I had to use my palm to give my thumb a rest. Brakes even worked.
We had a blast ripping around his property. I could barely keep up with his 13hp homebuilt buggy on the trail because of his superior handling, but on the back road it was see ya later. The thing flies.


on to the next phase.

How much you want for your current Engine including all the stuff to make it run?

Well it's kind of already spoken for. Local bike/sled salvage shop wants it. He says we can work out a deal for a different motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) once I decide what I want. He has a 670 long block on the shelf that he's asking $800 for, no carbs, no ignition, no clutch. Pricey.
I'm looking at an EX500 Ninja that he has with minor front end damage. Take the whole bike and give/sell him back what I don't use. Nice compact high reving motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), but a few issues to work out.
Any other medium power 4 stroke swaps out there? No turbo Hyabusa's or anything thanks.
Going to leave the 670 in there for now while we get the suspension and chassis done, then I'll get to the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).
Also there is the little issue of the boarder between us that always get in the way money/shipping wise. Yep.. that picture is late January in Ontario Canada. No snow and raining.

I'm sure I'd have no trouble trading somebody local for a 583, still more than I need I think. I've got a nice Rotax 377 twin that would drop right in too, but at this point I'm looking to go 4 stroke shifter for several reasons.
The mechanical part of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap is no trouble. Love the challenge. The hard part is deciding on which motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is going to work best with this 10:1 tranny we've got. Gearing has to be right.
Nice enjoyable days of trail riding are the goal here.

I got EBC pads same day from a local bike shop, and rear caliper seals next day from the local Honda Powerhouse dealer, So far so good for parts. Honda Service has parts list and #'s online, nice!

Nice!

Do you have one for the Pilot and FL250?

Well this parts book is awesome. Thank you!
How in the world did the owner get the courage to ride the Oddy without
the support from those removed tubes???? In addition, I could not agree more why the heck
was the drive side removed? With all that power it is a wonder how it is not all twisted apart
I guess it goes to show ya the Ody frame is even for this time 2010 very well engineered.
Could you keep the Engine for trail riding with spring change in the primary?
Low engagement speed and torque pipe could be lots o fun
G.O.

Might be something to try before I make the final decision. Is that going to limit the top end or just delay it?
It really did work quite well the way it is. It wasn't bad at all on the bottom end or just low speed cruising. Never bogging, good throttle response, lot's of fun, no complaints there, but just unuseable top end. I'd be wasting that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).
Something 4 stroke will come along when the time is right.

I know that with my bikes...the torque pipe just about took out the top end
the pipe just would not allow the rev.
the clutch spring (as I have read on other sites) lower engagement = less hit and less tire spin for trail
This is from my limited knowlege... anyone else feel free to set me straight if I am wrong...
Could you send/post some more pics of the Engine mount and pipe setup? I have been curious about the sled
Engine conversion

The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is a tight fit. Spark plugs to main hoop crossbar clearance. Carb to tranny clearance. And the recoil to shock mount clearance was a biggie. Plus making the mounts so you don't have to fight with it to get it in and out. To find the sweet spot that gave the best clearance took some time. The pipe plays a big part in where the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) can go. I wanted the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) back as far as i could get it.
The rear "pedestal" for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount is a bolt in using existing mounting points on the chassis. The front tabs are welded on.




Because I knew I was going to change the upper shock mount locations, and the previous installer had already hacked out the tubing, I sacrificed the inboard part of the right shock mount to clear the recoil. I could have moved the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) 3/4 inch to the left, and shimmed the secondary clutch to line it up, but that would have caused the pipe angle to change to clear the other side.
(looks more hacked up in the picture than it actually is)


I rolled the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) slightly forward to give a little more room around the carbs for an airbox ,without getting the spark plugs too close to the main hoop crossbar.


I changed the angle of the head pipe so that it allowed a stock expansion chamber to be used. The chamber points upward as seen in the pics. This gave the most clearance possible between the clutch and the main hoop bars, and for the seat to be in a good position.
The seat is mounted 1.5" rearward of the stock rear mount position. This will add some footroom should I need to have foot controls down the road.


Now this weekends goodies:
Brand new Rhino take-offs.


Had to make some adapters for the rear. A little overkill, but they will take a beating.


And a garage on wheels to store it in and haul it around. Needs a little TLC, but it's solid.


This weeks goal, rear shocks.
I'm havin' fun.

3/8" plate steel . Center and bolt patterns layed out on a mill. A little lathe work to clearance the hub and dress the outside diameter. I was hoping that 3/8" bolts would fit the hubs once the studs were pushed out, but 3/8 was too small center the hub, so we drilled and tapped the hub 1/2"-13 for flathead screw. (These hubs are tough material to tap.)They will be locktited and nutted on final assembly. Wheel studs are 7/16-20. All grade 8 hardware. These things are nuke proof.

Next step under way.
Air shocks and lower frame bracing back in. Bumps stops in case of loss of air.
Have to play with it a bit yet to find the right pressure but initial tune-in ride ended up pretty good. Rear lower mount may need to be lowered. Front is just temporary until time for a-arms.
All 4 stock shocks were bent.

Looks mean
do those things give you blind spots when driving?
but I kid... awesome man

got a deal on a box of rattle can cammo paint. hehehe. can you see it in these pics?
(not all done yet)

I have the Pilot manual but I cant figure out how to post it. Its on my desktop in PDF file. Tell me how to post and Ill get it up here.

All done, well for now. Had it out a few times and it works great.



Better seating position(for me), more footroom, throttle pedal, steering geometry fixed up.



Trying some Ryde FX Air 2.0 shocks on the front, much better than Ford Explorer shocks

And I got a GoPro camera to capture the fun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wILPDwp_5SM

Great vid Dave,thanks Mate!
Sure was a diff and pleasantly surprising POV (point of view)
Of all the incar vids I have done,rec and race wise',I thought THAT one JUST would'nt work!
Now that I have watched your one,I have been enthralled with the results/perspective.
Just makes me realise now tho...I wish I woulda tried it years ago at Northam Race Track...that I can't turn back time,and re-vid my ol races!
Thanks Mate for exposing my weekness's and regrets.

Great vid Dave,thanks Mate!
Sure was a diff and pleasantly surprising POV (point of view)
Of all the incar vids I have done,rec and race wise',I thought THAT one JUST would'nt work!
Now that I have watched your one,I have been enthralled with the results/perspective.
Just makes me realise now tho...I wish I woulda tried it years ago at Northam Race Track...that I can't turn back time,and re-vid my ol races!
Thanks Mate for exposing my weekness's and regrets.

i love the angle... i never thought of that! well we all know what my next video will look like :)