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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
hoser wrote:
Here is the rod bearing it looks like the cage that spaces out all the rollers is completely missing see how all the rollers are bunched together, this is what was locking up the bottom end they all bunched together then wedged tight.

The whole rod assembly needs replaced (rod, pin, bearings) the rest of the crankshaft looks good and reusable.


That doesnt look like the one I sent. The one I sent is really easy to identify. The clutch end has a divet and has been repaired with JB weld. Here some pics... This one is for TURBO :-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
stix,you got another one? :-)
Hoser,guess I'll do all 3 suggestions.Tried calling Randy today,phone was busy for 3 hrs,I can never get that guy.
I found a guy on ebay that has one,he's gonna send me some pics,but he thinks the rod Might need to be replaced,he says The big bearing end is fine but the small end where the piston bearing and pin run through, might be questionable,so will that do me any good?

Hoser,Randy advertises this:
New Crank Rod Kit Includes the rod, thrust washers, bearing and Aftermarket pin LIMITED AMOUNT
if he has one,is this what I need to fix mine?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
redskinman wrote:
stix,you got another one? :-)
Hoser,guess I'll do all 3 suggestions.Tried calling Randy today,phone was busy for 3 hrs,I can never get that guy.
I found a guy on ebay that has one,he's gonna send me some pics,but he thinks the rod Might need to be replaced,he says The big bearing end is fine but the small end where the piston bearing and pin run through, might be questionable,so will that do me any good?

Hoser,Randy advertises this:
New Crank Rod Kit Includes the rod, thrust washers, bearing and Aftermarket pin LIMITED AMOUNT
if he has one,is this what I need to fix mine?


Ha Ha that's me on Ebay you were asking if I had a crank, I just sent you the pics to your email address. Check it out and let me know man!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
stix9567 wrote:
redskinman wrote:
stix,you got another one? :-)
Hoser,guess I'll do all 3 suggestions.Tried calling Randy today,phone was busy for 3 hrs,I can never get that guy.
I found a guy on ebay that has one,he's gonna send me some pics,but he thinks the rod Might need to be replaced,he says The big bearing end is fine but the small end where the piston bearing and pin run through, might be questionable,so will that do me any good?

Hoser,Randy advertises this:
New Crank Rod Kit Includes the rod, thrust washers, bearing and Aftermarket pin LIMITED AMOUNT
if he has one,is this what I need to fix mine?


Ha Ha that's me on Ebay you were asking if I had a crank, I just sent you the pics to your email address. Check it out and let me know man!


lol
got the pics,I'll post them here and get hosers opinion because I don't know any better
thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
redskinman wrote:
stix9567 wrote:
redskinman wrote:
stix,you got another one? :-)
Hoser,guess I'll do all 3 suggestions.Tried calling Randy today,phone was busy for 3 hrs,I can never get that guy.
I found a guy on ebay that has one,he's gonna send me some pics,but he thinks the rod Might need to be replaced,he says The big bearing end is fine but the small end where the piston bearing and pin run through, might be questionable,so will that do me any good?

Hoser,Randy advertises this:
New Crank Rod Kit Includes the rod, thrust washers, bearing and Aftermarket pin LIMITED AMOUNT
if he has one,is this what I need to fix mine?


Ha Ha that's me on Ebay you were asking if I had a crank, I just sent you the pics to your email address. Check it out and let me know man!


lol
got the pics,I'll post them here and get hosers opinion because I don't know any better
thanks


lol, good call


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
hoser,heres the pics
what do you think?
stix said:
Heres some pics of the crank. I checked the seal surfaces on the crank, as you can see in the pic of the clutch side, there is some surface rust,it can be sanded and polished out, ive done it before. Im not sure if you have ever done that but it can be done with sandpaper and metal polish. The starter side is fine. I also did a "pop" test on the big end bearing and it was fine. I would be concerned with the little end, It has some rust on it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
hoser wrote:
Got your bottom end in the mail got a chance to look at it yesterday, I finally got the drive clutch off the crank you used up about everything I had to get that sucker, tools, bolts, patients, experience etc.

The first thing I had to do was remove that push pin so I could see if the threads could be saved that pin just did not want to come out the grease had a hold on it, after flushing out the grease with brake cleaner and compressed air I was able to get the pin to move then was able to get a magnet to hook on and pull it out, once out I got out my taps and found a tap to match the threads, it was a 9/16 fine thread the bolt you tried to use was coarse thread, the threads are in pretty bad shape, I took the tap and threaded the hole in deeper then did some measuring to figure out how much to cut off your push pin so the new push bolt could reach the new threads, then I had to find another bolt to use after digging through my last chance spare parts bucket (5 gallon bucket of bolts I have collected over the past 25 years) I found a 9/16 fine thread bolt but the bolt was not threaded far enough to use all the new threads I created so I had to take a die nut and thread more of the bolt.

Once the threads was fixed up as best I could fix them I filled the clutch up with grease again, pit in the push pin and cranked in the bolt until tight by hand, then used a wrench to tighten it as tight as I could by hand then I put a socket and impact wrench on it, crossed my fingers and said a little prayer before pulling the trigger on the impact gun, presto it popped right off.


Here is the old bolt the shorten push pin and the new bolt.


hoser do you remember how far the new bolt went in before clutch popped off? did it go all the way till it touched the front surface of the clutch? My impact wont get it off and the bolt stops little over about 1/8 inch from touching front of clutch plate.You would think that would be far enough in but I guess not


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
redskinman wrote:
hoser wrote:
Got your bottom end in the mail got a chance to look at it yesterday, I finally got the drive clutch off the crank you used up about everything I had to get that sucker, tools, bolts, patients, experience etc.

The first thing I had to do was remove that push pin so I could see if the threads could be saved that pin just did not want to come out the grease had a hold on it, after flushing out the grease with brake cleaner and compressed air I was able to get the pin to move then was able to get a magnet to hook on and pull it out, once out I got out my taps and found a tap to match the threads, it was a 9/16 fine thread the bolt you tried to use was coarse thread, the threads are in pretty bad shape, I took the tap and threaded the hole in deeper then did some measuring to figure out how much to cut off your push pin so the new push bolt could reach the new threads, then I had to find another bolt to use after digging through my last chance spare parts bucket (5 gallon bucket of bolts I have collected over the past 25 years) I found a 9/16 fine thread bolt but the bolt was not threaded far enough to use all the new threads I created so I had to take a die nut and thread more of the bolt.

Once the threads was fixed up as best I could fix them I filled the clutch up with grease again, pit in the push pin and cranked in the bolt until tight by hand, then used a wrench to tighten it as tight as I could by hand then I put a socket and impact wrench on it, crossed my fingers and said a little prayer before pulling the trigger on the impact gun, presto it popped right off.


Here is the old bolt the shorten push pin and the new bolt.


hoser do you remember how far the new bolt went in before clutch popped off? did it go all the way till it touched the front surface of the clutch? My impact wont get it off and the bolt stops little over about 1/8 inch from touching front of clutch plate.You would think that would be far enough in but I guess not


Once you put the push pin in and crank the bolt all the way in by hand until you feel the bolt stop hard against the push pin, your only going to turn that bolt about another one full turn before the clutch pops off.

I cant answer distances I just don't remember, all I know is the pin and bolt are the correct length, you do need to remove the bolt again and make sure the end of the bolt is not getting mushroomed from all the use, once it mushrooms too much it just tears out all the threads as you try to remove the bolt, you need to maintain a bevel on the end of the bolt and pin so it cant mushroom out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:11 pm
Posts: 3496
Location: houston
Does it matter which way push pin goes in?
I've been putting skinny end in first


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
redskinman wrote:
Does it matter which way push pin goes in?
I've been putting skinny end in first


Yup skinny end first the skinny end goes into the hole where the threads are for the long bolt that holds your clutch on.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:36 am
Posts: 1346
Location: Benson, NC
CRANKS CRANKS CRANKS!!!!

haha.

I have an Engine to rebuild but I'm iffy on the crank too. Guess I should just send it all your way hoser, its not doing me any good here.

oh and hey can the crank parts be had from honda still? ie rod pin and bearing ? they don't say discontinued at service honda but you know how they are ...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:19 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:36 am
Posts: 1346
Location: Benson, NC
Part Number Quantity Description List Price Your Price! Order
13201-KA4-700 Honda -- ROD, CONNECTING $135.87 $102.38 <Remove>
13202-357-300 Honda -- WASHER $21.7 $16.96 <Remove>
13381-VM0-770 Honda -- PIN A, CRANKSHAFT $32.42 $24.43 <Remove>
91011-VM0-008 Honda -- BEARING 1 $19.51 $15.24 <Remove>

they all look to be there .... man that rod is pricey though.


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