Thanks for the info... I would love to get the Ski Doo 2ndary/Driven mounted to the Pilot trans... I am just not sure where to start...

I think the Doo driven is a splined shaft mount,whereas the Drak and,Odys are keyed.
This is why they use the AC driven,it's keyed.

Wow!! that thing has come a long way from being gold.
Very nice work. Could you post some pics of the mods you did to the front for the extra leg room?

Did you change the Pilot Trans shaft that holds the driven? Which driven did you use ? Model Engine size etc of sled... This would be the greatest if the Pilot shaft is retained...
Regards

I will be happy to post some more pics.... they are a coming
Thanks for the kind words... It does move out...
Steve

Some pics of the front end...
I just had to have some leg room and make way for my go pedal...
it is 1 inch tube and light sheet metal on the outside...
Diamond plate extended floor it is not welded soild... wha can get in can also get out...

Here is some more info.. I felt as though I had to close the front in...
The gas pedal just looks out o place on this thing....
The bumper is a trial unit.. the top bar is very strong the bottom two are useless (1 inch conduit)... I put the flat stock outside for a kind of Dukes o Hazard Brush bar look but I think that was lost as the day went on and all got tired...LOL
The bumper may be too low??? I continued the line of the Pilot frame upward when I attached the square tube... but it may still be too low... need to test... I am no high flyer so maybe I will be ok? Comments from those in the know would be great?
Regards Steve

the bumber/front end extension will catch dirt and send you into a somersault...

That is my concern as well.... The front ext. is higher than the end of the original Pilot though ... I will have to check what type of slopes are appro. for it... I understand that some people have launched when just driving straight ahead because of road changes...
This was a concern for me from the start because I never wanted the front end overhang... The Pilot now comes before the tires and this is unwanted... The front tires will not be able to adjust to the trail changes before the front/bumper gets there....
I had a massive hit once coming off a sand hill when my Banshee frame hit the ground at the end of my descent....
Steve

from the bottom tube just come up at a 45...
kinda like a desert bumper like on my pilot and ody... I cant find pics...

What do you guys think of more of a skid plate type front end? What I mean by that is this.
If you moved the round tubes back closer to the frame and covered them with the skid plate.

What would happen if the front part that was addded had been at more of an angle?
The place I'm looking at is between the pivot on the pedal and where the stop comes up out of the new floor.

Hello
Just some more pics... I put a hood on it... I had to cheese it up with the scoop and hood pins... the holes were there so I had to fill them...
The gold tub can be seen in pic 4... and the roof in pic 1 is the hood... I am still working on a roof...
The plastic cleaned up with plastic renew and alot alot alot alot of elbow....
Regards

Another one of the Rotax 580...
And another of the other 89 400 after I put the black nerfs on...I also took two pics of the front foot well ext...The plastics are red... no black for the plastic...
Regards

first one of the pilot rev and clutch setup...
still working on all of it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmSqAxvinu0


this one is a little broken up... had to get the belts on and then forgot to turn on gas and then just having a little fun

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B15oDyWc2pg

some pics of the exhaust wrap.. Engine front mounts in the Pilot stock local... and an air filter pic.. need to build an air box still... and my jetting is still off.. and the air inlets and rad hose with tube section... it saved some dough in hose cost ...
Regards

1st pic front Engine mount again with X brace
2nd shield over trans shift link to (I hope) prevent the air hose from a tear or rip
3rd shot of Pilot trans original mount and my mount for the 580
4th throttle cable link that was supplied (idea) to me via the great guys on on this site... Thanks...

1st pic another of the underside eng mount
2nd on the cut welded and re-welded Y pipe ..yup it had some leaks
3rd more exhaust wrap... CVT drive and carbs with air tube
4th pic turn your computer counter clockwise (LOL I suck at posting) another tie in to the Pilot trans
5th of the elec location and throttle 3 into 1 junction

another batch
1st pic the Engine mount... again Pilot trans side... all mounts are adjustable.. the bolt holes are oval.. well sort of oval to allow for adjustment and some side to side movement
2nd pic gas filter and rad hose and Engine rad hose connection... I hope this is correct any sled masters out there please let me know... that is my rad hose plug and there is a thermostat in that housing...
3rd pic carbs and air tube... the sled rubber carb boot inserted into the 3 inch I.D. tube and epoxy sealant to make it air and water tight... also another on the rad hose route...
4th pic (turn the computer clockwise) that is a section of the oil injection filter and lines from the 50cc gas tank that holds the injection oil..
5th pic sled belt is back in the Pilot driven... more belt was needed.... the Pilot driven is so much smaller than the sled driven... that the 580 primary was not able to fully close with the atv belt I was using... I think it was just too short.... and it was very tight under throttle... also... I added more slack too... it seems much better now but still tweaking it... also the battery neg cable here... and the lower rad mount is that square stock you can see welded to the rear frame

Hello
1st pic of the Engine top and my crude rad hose plug
2nd the same side view
3rd my exhaust angle... the pipe seems to work well... but it is no professional job for sure...I tried my best and for now it will do... the Pilot starts and idles well and seems to "get on the pipe" ok but I will need to test it on some hills and with some traction... it (in my experience) is easy for an Engine to sound ok without significant load and or traction... the weld is still holding too (on the expansion chamber) for now...lol
my vids on the thing spinning around is fun but time will tell...
Last pic Pilot dash... tach and temp guage and assorted buttons

Air tubes leading to the carb are they smooth inside, or ribbed like the outside? Wouldn't that cause some unwanted turbulance???

Plastic renew again.... NO WAY.. but better than it was... yes
1st 2 pics are after sanding and razor blade scraping to get old deep scratches out
but prior to plastic new again application...

I am sure you are correct... I did not know what else to use though and with the 3 inch I.D. I hope this will be a min issue... anyone have a source for smooth inside tube...
Thanks for the response Turbo
Regards

I am told the dust collector tubing sold for wood working dust collectors is smooth on the inside.

Thanks for the info... where do I get this?
Oh and the next piece of the project is to make a guard from expanded metal behind the seat for clutch explosion protection.... should it happen

Help needed
At the end on the vid 6 min video run when the Pilot died..I did not shut it off... how did it sound to you guys?
after driving it... the machine just did not want to idle... rich er lean... This two carb tunning setup is no fun for the G.O.
Thanks for the help
Steve