Because I am so crazy in the smarts department I over looked that the old VM 38s had 35 pilot jets and the new TMs only have 25s in em... wow I am so wicked smart...
Regards... I trust the VM jets will go into the TMs as well..I hope

Just an FYI all VM jets will work on the TM carbs as well
the new carbs only had 22.5 pilots in them
so the 35s will fatten it up alot... if not enough thet jets go up by 5s from there
40s 45s 50s etc
I hope to be cranking before long...
I also have a call into Barnett cables and the plan is for them to make me a one off cable to hook into the junction of the sled 3 cables (2 carbs and oil injection) to one setup...
this is turning into quite the fun build... everyone... from this site to local biz is so helpful and supportive... The Pilot will have to make the rounds for show and tell when finished
Regards G.O.

Did you stick your old jets into the new carb and run it to see how it responded? Looking forward to seeing this rip!

I was felling trees and splitting it all W.E. so I have not had time to play with it...
I am so close to being up and running which is important... I want to break/twist anything that I can before winter... I can then fix it over the cold months and rip it in the spring summer and fall...
I will let you know King and all as it comes along... thanks for the interest...
Steve

Well well...
I changed the small pilots and main for the larger ones and it just would not rev at all... on stands it just fell flat on its face... pulled out large mains and put the 250s back in both ... then it would rip top end but no bottom.. pulled large pilots and put old pilots in and it was go time...
now as you guys know I was having problems with the Engine just rev-n to the moon well what I found during jet games was the 3 to one linkage was binding up and not letting the slide close PTO side... so i picked up new one for approx 25 bucks.. another dealer wanted 96 buckaroos... and low a behold she runs and no issues... still too firm for thumb throttle though...
now for the next question... it has 120psi each cylinder cold... have not checked it hot yet.... she pulls over 2nd pull when cold no problem and runs mint get her hot and no start... i figure cylinder expan and no fart... am I crazy...? well i now I am crazy... that is not the question...LOL time for top rebuild? Hoser want to Hoserize it?

oh yeah and for the awesome news i drove it last night sorry no video as no Pilot lights and too dark but she does rip... when cold.... slight warm up...
I am running NGK BR9ES in her as per manual... would that contibute to hard/near impossible hot start?
Thanks guys... this project is coming along and is so much fun...
King I am so close but no fall ride.... next spring is along way off.... as my father always says "oh balls"
Regards
she burns the tires on pavement like nothing... but hooks well in dirt and cooks only drove her approx 1/2 mile total before lock down ....

Good to hear that you are making progress! I doubt the plugs are causing the hard start issue. What do you have to do to get it to start when it is hot? How long after you shut if off when it is hot for it to not start again? My initial thinking (based on your pics) is the gravity feed tank is flooding the cylinders/overpowering the needle and seat in the carb. Are you still running the vacuum fuel pump? Put a fuel shut off on the fuel supply line, shut off the fuel before turning off the igntion. See if it will fire up when hot after doing this. If it does, then you will need a different needle and seat designed for the gravity feed system.

120psi sounds about right for one of those engines. Doubt you need a rebuild based on the info given.
You could always stud the tires and tune it on a lake - no trees to hit out there.

no fuel pump...
carbs set for gravity feed..
plugs not wet when checked after no hot start....and pulled plugs and turned it over no fuel in cylinders... I do not think it was flooded...tried 50/1 down bilat cylin and still no fart.. it tried a little but did not seem to suck the fuel in...
I had to wait for over two hours for it to fire up.... my freak-n shoulders are kill-n me man...
King and all you guys have to see ths sucka move out man it is a blast..

You have a primer on this? Try it when it was hot? If no primer, maybe a shot of starting fluid just to see if it would pop and run? Still have spark?

"good" spark but i am going to employ an in line tester to check it...
no primer... i have tried to leave the ignition off and pull 5 to 10 Xs similar to the 500 single lung 2 stroke method and I just get a brief pop... i will test comp again cold and hot and post results... plan for the results this w.e. as work load dictates the bug plan...
Thx again

did some mild testing of the 580 this w.e. and it went ok...
after test the Engine mounts were pretty twisted and the belt was heavy regarding slack...
It continues to be alot of fun to build and i have since completed the rear bumper and the top end was torn down shortly after this video... new 76mm units going in...the rear is jumping quite a bit so I will also address this in the coming months...
Regards
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeFB2QeoL9k" ."..

No feedback on the project?
Where is the P and O love? LOL
got new pistons rings and gaskets tonight and the guy at the parts counter had two jugs for it standard bore of 76mm and I picked them up for 100.00.. Backup/port project
Also closing in on an 02 Artic Cat 600 EFI Engine for next build...
This site is making me into a menace....
Regards

Sounds good, you like that new found power huh, how is the torque? My 440 pulls like a fright train, been tempted to install that 583 I have just to see how much harder it pulls.

After my first ride with the 440 my first thoughts was "ok now you need more brakes" what was yours?

It pulls great... I just need to make the Engine a little more rigid to keep belt tight under torque...
the pipe seems to work well throughout the power band... I have not tried it on a hill yet or on slower trails... just what you see here on the video...
Yes, when I hit the tar with it and it hooked I had a hard time slowing it down... the brakes/tires were locked but the Pilot just kept sliding... great ting it has dual control break setup... I was able to skid steer it onto the shoulder...So I guess the brakes are good it just needs more weight to slow that inertia... but no complaints here as it is much fun...
H man any interest in Hozerizing my extra 580 cylinders????
I will have more pics of the donor sled and the build to come... oil tank setup and I changed the air intake again.. the out of the cage setup was not so good and the 2 1/4 tube was not flowing enough go gas for the Engine so I am replacing with 3 inch tube and making the air track much shorter... Possible behind the bumper setup...
I do not like the straight to carb setup..ie filter to carb... as I always have a thin layer of grease on the inside of my intake tubes for that just in case particle that gets by the filter...but if comes to it on they will go to the carbies
Regards Steve

Hit the DOO boards ask around about modifying the cylinders each Engine is different and has different requirements and yours might not benefit much from mods, most ROTAX engines run really good stock ALL of them could benefit from a bump in compression they seem to come really conservative from the factory you might pick up some more power from making the exhaust port wider, most if not all 2 strokes can benefit from a wider exhaust, it would be nice to talk to someone that has modified that Engine to see what they had to say, some engines the gains just are not worth the effort of messing with but on the flip side some are a night and day better when modified.

little bit more...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgoGXhZMXZk

Here I was reading the first part of this thread thinking to myself, why on earth would someone wreck a good machine to do this.

BUT then I saw the videos & all I have to say is, where do I get one of those engines!!??

Man that has some aggets.

Nice work.

Mozzy thanks for the kind words...
Hoser thax for the info... I will clean the ports up as they do not all match the sleeve


Mozzy the Pilot is not alterd in any way except the roll bar behind my seat where the belts attach and the front of the Pilot was extended 6 inches so I fit... So in the end the machine can be changed back to normal in a day power wise with stock tank. air box and rad.... and in a w.e. I can put the cage and body back to normal...
I followed H mans lead as to not change the machine... just about plug and play... now that it is done that is...I did cut the L side tube in the rear so the mag side of the Engine would fit... but the replacement piece looks like it belongs to the lay eye.. I would not get it past any of you but I am not trying to fool yous guys...LOL
Regards

more pics

yes front end is extended approx 6 inches.. I would not fit prior to modifications...
good eye
seat is on stock mounts... I just needed more leg room

Is that a civic or a geo metro radiator? You going to run slip on air filters or make an air box? You run out of room so fast on these swaps. Looks good, need more videos!

ford escort rad King
going to have 2 filters w seperate lines of 3 inch I.D.
going to be mounted out back by the bumper.. so they get all dirty...
Regards

Notice the frame tube by the recoil pull start... not stock support...

Are you running a torque snubber to stop the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) from twisting out of parallelism with the driven?
I made one up that bolted to the Drakart FNR trans,then had the Doo OEM round flexible snubber doughnut with threaded adjustment at the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) end,works great.

pictures???

I made one this w.e. for it... in the rear of the Engine, between the eng and trans.. clutch side..
It is a welded tab from the mount, with threaded rod to the Engine support,(as not to put the bolt against the block.. I have yet to try it.. but it should push/keep the Engine in place during lauch... the one on the Doo I had was in front and pulled the Engine forward...
I also set the Pilot just like stock... ie rubber mounts on front of Engine and hard mounted the Engine to the trans... and the trans is on stock mounts... I did not want any parts on my Engine mount touching the frame besides the front so the unit would "move as one".. with the torque bolt in place which again is in the hard mount from Engine to trans this should be set....
Time will tell for sure... but as said, it is so much fun working on this thing...
Regards