Thanks. the mounts are solid. As far as i know the 570 belt is the same width. Unfortunately i did not have the luxury of taking the Engine out of the sled so there are a few details that i do not know. The belt fits on the clutch and the clutches work the way that they should. I amusing the stock ody driven unit. So far there have not been any issues in that department, but only time will tell if i start to have issues when i actually get it complete and riding it. Thanks for the compliments. I have put a lot of time and effort into this thing and it is cool to see it appreciated. I wanted to do a converson that to an extent looked like somthing honda would have done. I am very particular about the way things are so i try to make things look as factory as i possibly can.

So, once again im back at school and just left to think about my project. I would like to get a temp guage to put on this. What do you guys recomend using? I think a standard guage would be kinda neat to see instead of just a digital one. What are people using on their conversions? the sled just came with an idiot light so i don't even have the factory harness to tap into. It would be a stand alone guage installation

I used a auto meter liquid filled gauge...

Is that a manual or an electric gauge? Not really sure what type i need to get? Just any ol automotive one? and then just get an inline sensor?

How high tech do you want to go and how much are you wanting to spend? If you want to keep the cost down you can use the old standby analog gauge and a temp sensor you can place in line. These work well but all depending on the quality of the gauge and sensor as to how fast the true temperature will display.

Me personally I like the digital read it right now and exact type gauge.

If you want to go hi tech....
I am using a Trailtech Vapor for my water temp, speedometer, tach and odometer. They have an even nicer meter called the Trailtech Voyager that does the same but with a GPS feature!

Rand

I really just want a standard gauge. I also kinda like the way that it looks as well. would something like this be what i want? I don't need high tech and just want somthing that functions, and at a relitively low-er cost. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sunpro-2 ... 5add474c4b" ."..

You're big issue is how are you goin to tap the system to add the sensor. Does your Engine have a water temp sensor in it already?

How did you install your fan temp sensor?

Rand

I used one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Water-te ... ccessories

I was curious if i could just use a tee off of that and put both my fan sensor and my gauge sensor on it? or get another one of those?

The temp gauge sending unit will need to be in the water flow just like you fan switch. Rather than install another adapter in line like you did for your fan switch you might try this.....

After reading back a little in the post I see you said the sled had an idiot light. Basically the sled has a sensor (switch) that protrudes into the water flow somewhere in the cylinder or head. This switch is normally open when the water temperature is below a specific preset temperature. When the switch reaches its preset temperature it closes allowing the circuit to be completed turning on the idiot light. You can replace the idiot light switch with a temperature gauge sending unit.

And the best part is you don't need the factory harness to adapt a temp gauge! All you will need to do is run a wire fron the sending unit to the gauge and then wire the gauge itself per the manufacturer's instructions.

Rand

The sending unit from the sled was actually in the radiator filler neck, that was not part of the radiator. So, unfortunately i no longer have that port since i am now using the banshee radiator witch has its own filler neck.

I personally wouldn't try tee the sensors in the same area. I would use another hose adapter like you posted, placed on the Engine coolant output line.

Rand

Kinda what i was thinking. I have my fan sensor on the coolant line that runs from the head of the Engine, back to the top of the rad. I have a line running from the bottom of the rad to the pump, and then out to the head on the Engine. I will just add a second sensor adapter in line with he fan switch.

Oh well what do we have here? Lookie what my UPS man brought to me today! Its awesome living in the small town. the UPS man knows me and sets my packages right inside the door of my shop!

Brand Spankin New Honda rear fenders. I couldnt find a set of good used rears, so i bit the bullet!

Ohhhh Shinny! You can just box those right up and send them to me for testing! Ha Ha Ha!

Where did you get new rear fenders from, I thought they were discontinued? Are those actually Honda or are they the new fenders from Aftersuck motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) Spurtz?

I think I might take a go at re-conditioning the wife's fenders, they're starting to look a little ragged!

Rand

Brand new OEM honda fenders. I found a seller on ebay that had alot of ody parts, and i messaged him and asked for fenders because i figured it couldnt hurt. Turns out he had fenders so i purchased a set of rears and brackets :) I paid a little more than the aftermarket fenders would have cost me, but for the OEM honda fenders i feel it was worth it! Whats your address? Ill get them send out to you right away :D. haha.

Let me know if reconditioning the fenders turns out good. I have one spare that is in horrible visual shape that i could try and recondition. and the fenders on my stock ody are starting to show their age.

The trick is on these fenders is to get the surface prepped properly so what ever you use to recondition (paint) them with will adhear. My spare fenders have a lot of tiny hairline surface cracks in them. I am thinking of trying to buff them out but the experience I had with my 400EX fenders with buffing they polishing them up I found it was really easy to ripple the surface of the fenders because of being impatient.

If I try and it works I will post what I did. I'm sure there has to be some info on the web somewhere about re-conditioning plastic.

Rand

care to share his name with the rest of us. or was that the last set he had

they cost a little more than the chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts fenders but they are OEM honda and you don't have to deal with chucklnuts service.

Well, she is finally finished.....sortof. I am still needing to get a different belt, and i am missing one of the special spaces for the bottom of the works shocks on the rear. I also am waiting for my works shocks to arrive. is there anyone that has a spare one of those works shock spacers for the bottom?

Anyways, i am very happy with the way it looks so far. I think i will be even happier after i take it for a ride!

Very sharp!!! I love the look of those tires and rims.

Thanks! The rears are Kenda Bearclaws 22x12-10 and the fronts are Dunlop KT390 21x7R-10 for anyone interested in a set for their machine.

What did you use for an air intake system checked through your posts and never saw anything

I'm just using dual UNI filters for now. I should figure out an airbox for it but am not exactly sure what to use or how to fit it in there.

I just remembered a question i had about the carbs on this Engine. What is the purpose of a carb switch? They are not hooked up to anything when i got it.the Engine runs fine with these just unplugged, but the one will fill the cylnder with fuel if i let the Engine sit for a few minutes with the fuel from the tank turned on. Would the carb switch have somthing to do with that? or is it because my tank is mounted higher than my fuel pump?

The Carb switch is probably the TORRS (Throttle Over ride system) that Yamaha uses. The main prupose of the system is for the Engine to go into limp mode if the carbs freeze open. The system has a micro switch in the thumb flipper. If the flipper is off and the carbs are still open then the ecu goes into limp mode. The way to "overide" this system is to simply plug in the wires to the harness into themselves, then it does not matter what the wires from the carbs do, or the thumb micro switch because the ECU always think the flipper is on and never goes into limp. It sounds like this mod is already done, and no it does not have anything to do with the fuel problem, that sounds like a needle and seat or float bowl adjustment problem.

Akpilot