Thanks. ill try those tricks out this weekend and see how it goes. I really hope the master cylinder is alright.

you are doing a great job looks real good.

Tried the trick that Randman suggested and it didnt seem to help. I will try adjusting the brakes till i cant move the wheel tomarrow and see if that helps.

on a brighter note i got that trans and it was in awesome shape. I got a very good deal on that. It can never hurt to have spares!

I wound up tightening the wheel cylinders and rear caliper tight against the drums and disk.

Rand

i tightened the brakes until they started to drag and justbarely move. when i open the bleeder the first time it squirts out fairly good but then the 2nd and 3rd and all other times it just dripps out barely. Its almost as if the master cylner is plugged. but i had it all apart. any other opinions or is my master cylnder junk?

I wouldn't say the master cylinder is junk just yet. They are just a major pain in the ass to prime!

Try this trick....

1.) Take out the bleed screw from the caliper or wheel cylinder.
2.) Wrap the threads with teflon tape.
3.) Screw the fitting back in but don't bottom it out (don't close it).
4.) Hook a might vac or equivalent to the fitting and draw the fluid through the system being very careful not to draw air in through the master cylinder reservoir.

If that doesn't work try forcing fluid backwards through the system. A mighty vac can be used to pressure the fluid backwards through the system.

I tried these tricks and they didn't work either. LOL

It's worth a try if you haven't tried it yet.

Both of my Ody's master cylinders were a pain in the ass to get primed after rebuild. With the front master cylinder on mine I had to leave the bleed screws open for 2 days with the front end elevated before the air worked out of the system.

Rand

What is a mighty vac? and where would be the place to buy one?

here is where i am confused on this master cylinder thing. I took it completely apart and blew through all of the holes and made sure everything was clear. before i re-assembled it i put my finger over the bottom and then poured a small amount of fluid in there and tried pressing down on the piston. It built up pressure. when i pour fluid in the bowl it will not pick up the fluid to push it out of the bottom, just can hear it sucking air. no matter what i try. I really don't understand why this thing is such a pain in the ass to prime. the way it works seems simple enough to me but obviously it is not as simple as i thought.

Here is a mighty vac....

Any automotive store will have one.

Do not buy the cheap Harbor Freight specials. They are junk and if you are lucky they might last for one job!


Are the small passages that pass brake fluid to the pistons clear?

There is a small clear dome shaped plastic cup that is over the opening to the piston cavity on each side of the master cylinder. Each of these cups have small holes in them too allow fluid to pass into the piston chamber. Are those passages clear?


Rand

Yes. I popped off those plastic caps and used the compressor to blow through the holes and made sure they were clear. everything is opened. there are 1 larger and 1 pinhole in each chamber and that is all free.

I bought the Harbor Freight one and it lasted one whole use baby... went to Sears and picked up a "good" one ... never have any problems and the gauge is great so you don't put too much pressure on the system...

ah its been a wile since i have updated this thread. This weekend i got alot done. Got the front brakes bled. don't know what we did to get the master cylinder to work but ive got brakes now so im going to quit messing with the front :). The rear we figured out that the caliper is froze up so i am looking for a replacement caliper. Beside that, i got the fuel tank mounted, clutch mounted, battery in, just a few little things.

Oh, and i also borrowed fenders from my other ody and set the seatbelts and seat in there just to see how it will look once i finally find a set of rear fenders :)

I like the white and red suspension contrast. I was debating on either silver or white. Looks good!

I pulled my rear brake apart on the wife's Ody because the piston was stuck. I cleaned up the piston and the piston cup in the caliper body then replaced all of the seals. Works fine now. The piston and inside of the caliper were pretty crusty!

Rand

That is the bad part, i cant get the caliper apart. the bolt that holds the pads and stuff in is rusted in there and stripped out. I too was debating what to do color wise before i painted it, between silver and white as well. i wasn't sure how the white suspension would look but i think it turned out to look pretty damn good. overall i am happy with it, and im sure i will be more happy once i finally ride it.

I had to PB Blaster mine for quite a while and then used an impact gun to get the pad holding pin out of my Ody caliper...
u can always get an easy out tool and extract the pin after soaking it... regards

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153 ... d=21x60661" ."..

There are many different types of easy outs... calipers are expensive and you can always trust your own caliper rebuild more that done by another

I just went ahead and picked up a used one, will rebuild the old and keep it as a spare. Its nice to have spare parts anyhow, especially when parts are becoming harder and harder to find and i have 2 machines!

I picked up a set of used works shocks on ebay the other day for $100. I got them today and i was missing one nut and one of those special spacers to mount them to the bottom of the ody. Other than that they are in really good shape and came with those reservoirs that i wasn't expecting them to have. If the seller does not have them what can i do for a replacement? Could i just contact works and buy a spacer from them? Also, where do people usually mount the reservoirs? the hose facing the front or facing the rear? and where do you mount the little extra bottle. I know somewhere on the frame just not sure where. and what is usually used to mount them> just a couple big hose clamps? Im hoping these shocks will make the ride better from the stock shocks, maybe make things a little better on my back.

Oh, and one more question, i know alot of them in this post. I was unable to use the factory oil injection system onthis Engine due to clearance issues so i am going to just be mixing the fuel like i do with the stock odyssey. What oil ratio would be best to run in this? im still running the factory 20:1 in my 350 odyssey but that is a lot of oil. I don't think the sled Engine will need that much. What do you guys recomend? and should i keep or change the 20:1 ratio on the 350? don't need all out performance. Would rather have longer life than max performance.

run as the oil rec... the oil I use rec 50 to 1
others will rec 32 to 1... you can always check the sled forums...
Regards

Check on a Yamaha sled forum I was going to take off my oil injection for my 440 Kawasaki but it injects to the centre seal and centre bearing I would have cooked the Engine if I didn't check first.
You have done a great job your fl570 looks a lot different than when it was on craigs list in October

Thanks guys. It has come a long way and i am quite pleased with it. I honestly never thought it would go together as quick as it has, and look as good as it does. This weekend i brought my FL350 home and had it in the garage next to this one that is all fresh painted, and it really made me realize how much that one needs an overhaul, 25 years takes quite a toll on machines that are well ridden. Ive been thinking about seeing what it would take to make a few "FL570" fender decals as i think that would be quite a nice touch. Is there any dimensions of the stock decals floating around?

My local radio station is actually having a contest that you can enter your motorcycle or atv in. The listeners can vote on the motorcycles and then the top 20 are going to be able to go to the local motorcycle show and be judged there. For the hell of it i entered my odyssey in there although i really don't want to take it to a show where people will just pick it apart because lets face it, its nowhere near perfect. If you want to vote for me you can go to this link http://kkzx.clearcontests.com/front/image_contest2.asp?s=A6889271C4BCB3A3557BA5BEA5B19D84939EB49BB6B4678DD1CF8B998EAFA6BDBD777CA6CCC6C2BCA1897D615E7E718E8A50BEAA97736D747993C2AD9171786175ADBE788389646A756F90817A84A487A28A7659 First prize is i think $200 to a local motorcycle shop.

I still have a couple things to do to finish it up, but you cant tell that from the picture :)

He is correct on that one... If I was to remove the oil injection for the Rotax I would still need to supply oil the the Rotary valve by some means...
Regards

I posted on a sled forum and am waiting for a reply.

When you say that the oil injection goes to the center bearing, that means it isnt feeding the oil only into the carb correct? So on the crankcase somewhere there would be another spot for the oil injection as well as injecting into the carb with the fuel? The reason i ask is because there are not any ports on the crankcase that i see besides the pulse port for the fuel pump. I really hope that i can get away with mixing the fuel, if not that is just another thing i need to re-think.

While we are on the subject of ports, there is a small radiator hose fitting on my water pump, the head of the sled Engine, and the top of my radiator(2 to be exact, but the one that was on the radiator cap neck went to an overflow bottle im guessing?). so how am i supposed to go about routing these lines? Im assuming i can plum the overflow line to just run onto the ground but am not sure about the other 3. I know the port that was on the Engine used to flow through the carbs, but i don't plan to hook up the heated carbs as it just adds more clutter and if it is cold enough to need heat in the carbs then i wont be out running it. And the small port that is on the water pump is just a by-pass for when the thermostat is closed? So would i be correct in saying that the small line on the water pump would run back into the top of the radiator, the port on the head can be capped off, and the port on the filler neck can be run to the ground just as an overflow?

any body know about those radiator ports?

I posted on the snowmobile forums and i got a reply saying that i still needed oil and water pump but there is no place that the oil would plug into the crankcase, so i am beginning to think the poster didnt read my original post. i am going to go talk to a local yamaha shop and see what they have to say.

Well, i called the local cycle shop and the mechanic said that Yamaha did not use the oil pump for the bearings. He said that mixing the fuel will work just fine. that's a big releif on my end because i wasn't sure how i was going to add the oil injection in there. I started it up this afternoon and it runs good, needs some adjusting but hey, its a start. maybe in a few weeks ill be able to have it buttoned up enough to take it for a test ride. Cant wait.

nitrosport_5
That is great news I always feel better mixing my own fuel
good luck on your test drive.

I really like your work. I have a few questions though. You said you did not make the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts. I was wondering if your mounts are slotted for belt fitting. Or is it a solid setup? Is the 570 sled belt the same size as the stock FL350's belt?

I also am doing a sled swap in a FL250. Just got done doing some mods to match the belt sizes. Just wondering if you had any problems with that? (FL250 belt was much smaller than the sled belt)

I really like how low the Engine sits in your frame. Looks killer.