Board index

My Home Page

PilotOdyssey.com By hoser...


PilotOdyssey.com Chat Room

PilotOdyssey.com Photo Album

* Login   * Register * FAQ
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/smiley_cool.png PilotOdyssey.com Chat    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/find.png PilotOdyssey.com Google Search    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_tongue.png FL400 Parts    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_grin.png FL350 Parts    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_evilgrin.png FL250 Parts    http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/adm/images/imagemenu/emoticon_unhappy.png Admin Email   
It is currently Fri May 03, 2024 12:15 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 184 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ... 8  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:13 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
I went to a parts house and found a twin blade switch with a 10mm fine thread, then went to home depot and found plumbing brass to fit, then ran it inline in a rad hose


nitrosport_5 wrote:
I got alot done today. Mounted the banshee radiator, mounted the water pump, mounted the fuel tank and started tearing it down so next week it can get sandblasted and then powder coated. I have a couple questions for you guys about a thermo fan switch. I plan on using a fan on this, but i don't want to have it on all of the time. I want it to come on whenever the Engine needs to be cooled down. What parts do i need to do the thermo fan switch? I know there was something inline that could be used but i cant seem to find the right one.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:37 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
If you don't know at what temperature you are going to run at you can simply install an adjustable fan switch. The one pictured below is from summit racing for 45 plus shipping. Here is the link for the page showing additional switches.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?key ... itch&dds=1" ."..

Rand


Attachments:
thermo fan switch.jpg
thermo fan switch.jpg [ 20.74 KiB | Viewed 463 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:49 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Here is a picture of Stix9567's temp sensor. Nice clean and simple.

Rand


Attachments:
radiator fittings.jpg
radiator fittings.jpg [ 242.95 KiB | Viewed 1600 times ]
Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 4:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Thanks guys, i ordered the fan, thermostat switch, air filters, and picked up a shifter and brake cables here since mine were frozen up. Frame is being blasted today, and hopefully tomarrow i can get it to my buddy that is going to powdercoat it free. I think he said case ih red was what he had to do it, so it wont be honda red but it will be good enough for a custom resto. I am so excited to get this thing back from powdercoat. It is going to look amazing IMO. i also cant wait for the warm weather to ride! I am going to order a set of aluminum wheels for it also, the stock rear wheels of mine look like they were rode their entire life loose so the bolt holes are egged out.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:03 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
I have run into another issue. Whats the best way of removing a stubborn driven clutch? it looks like someone has tried to remove it before. one of the bolt holes is broken where a puller goes down in there and then it looks like someone tac welded somthing to the face part of the clutch so the whole thing is bent. I also need to know how to get the clutch taken apart. i have a second driven that i need to replace the sliders on but i cannot get it apart. I got the spring to unlatch but that is as far as i got.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:15 pm 
Online

Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
nitrosport_5 wrote:
I have run into another issue. Whats the best way of removing a stubborn driven clutch? it looks like someone has tried to remove it before. one of the bolt holes is broken where a puller goes down in there and then it looks like someone tac welded somthing to the face part of the clutch so the whole thing is bent. I also need to know how to get the clutch taken apart. i have a second driven that i need to replace the sliders on but i cannot get it apart. I got the spring to unlatch but that is as far as i got.


Can you post some pics?


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
I will on friday, i am at school for the week again this is just somthing that i remembered i needed to figure out.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 9:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Here is the picture. You can see where it looks like someone welded somthing on to try and pull the clutch off, and then the bolt hole that is broke off and the others don't look to be in good shape. The yellow liquid is some PB blaster i sprayed on the shaft to let it soak to hopefully make it a little easier when i get the thing off.

Image


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 10:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Well, i ordered a set of wheels and tires today. I also got the driven unit off. Now i jut gotta get some emry cloth and clean up the shaft before i slide the other clutch on. buddy picked up frame for powdercoat today. i hope he has it done by friday. Id LOVE to get the thing into a rolling chassis this weekend!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 1:13 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
just got word that the frame is done being powder coated so i will pick it up tomorrow. said there was a little bit of black that got into the red from something else that batch. Not sure what exactly that means but it was free so i cant complain too much. My mom also told me that Mr. UPS brought some wheels and tires for me from Rocky Mountain http://rockymountainatv.com. Didn't expect that they would already mount the wheels for me, but it makes since. This weekend i possibly will get the suspension on and get it to a roller status . Where do you guys usually start in a rebuild? Definitely glad i only have a quiz tomorrow and am done with class so i can make my way back home!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:59 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Got my frame. there are a few spots where it didnt turn out too good but i cant argue with the price. I also got my tires and wheels and boy do they look good. i cannot wait to see what this thing looks like complete.

Has anyone here used the chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts fenders? i am just curious if they are worth the money? i really would like a set of fenders for this. Or does anyone know where to find a set of honda fenders for a price that isnt going to make me go completely broke.

Here are some pictures of the frame and the wheels. The frame i think is a little bit darker than stock but it will do.

Image

Image


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:51 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Made a ton of progress this weekend. Its starting to look more and more like an odyssey. my front wheels didnt show up. I should have just went ahead and spent the $30 extra and got them from Rocky Mountain http://rockymountainatv.com but oh well. Got my wire harness in, hooked up, and functioning. trans an Engine is installed, brake lines installed, front suspension in (minus the J arm bolts because one was missing and another was rounded off). all and all im happy with this machine, i really like the look of the white suspension and red chassis. Not too big of a fan of the gold that was stock. What do you guys think of it so far? much more to come next weekend.

Image

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:14 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
that's lookin good, Image !!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:21 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:28 pm
Posts: 68
The white and red looks good.
Early pics showed right side of frame cut you replaced tubing how did you get Engine to fit inside?


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:23 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
I personally am not the one that fit the Engine down in there. When i purchased it on ebay it had the Engine mounts welded in and the Engine ready to drop down into it. The stock mounts were removed and some new mounts welded into the front and the rear trans/Engine mount was added to. The frame where you see that the bars were replaced were where the guy before me moved the bars out a little ways to clear the case on that side. it is a tight fit, but it does fit in there. The factory recoil starter and water pump will not fit. Luckily there is an electric start and i am going to be using a water pump from a Mercedes.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:35 am 
Online

Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
nitrosport_5 wrote:
I personally am not the one that fit the Engine down in there. When i purchased it on ebay it had the Engine mounts welded in and the Engine ready to drop down into it. The stock mounts were removed and some new mounts welded into the front and the rear trans/Engine mount was added to. The frame where you see that the bars were replaced were where the guy before me moved the bars out a little ways to clear the case on that side. it is a tight fit, but it does fit in there. The factory recoil starter and water pump will not fit. Luckily there is an electric start and i am going to be using a water pump from a Mercedes.



After seeing the problems TurboTexas is having with his Triple E Engine mounts I suggest you look yours over really good.

Cant wait to see this project completed and running, looking good.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:45 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Thanks. Before i had the frame sand blasted i had a guy that welds for a living go over the welds for me. they are pretty beefy mounts so as far as i can tell they will be alright, it uses the stock yamaha bushings(?) and it is mounted in 4 places. I think that if any part were to fail it would be the rear Engine/trans mount but it still seems to be fairly good. When its done ill take it out and run the snot out of it and fix what breaks!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
This is where my addiction to odysseys takes over. I usually am on the hunt for odyssey parts each day when i sit down at the computer, and usually quickly browse the newly listed and ending soonest on ebay. Just picked up this and im fairly sure for the price i stole it. Only cost me $30 for standard shipping as well!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-OD ... ccessories


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:18 pm 
Online

Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
nitrosport_5 wrote:
This is where my addiction to odysseys takes over. I usually am on the hunt for odyssey parts each day when i sit down at the computer, and usually quickly browse the newly listed and ending soonest on ebay. Just picked up this and im fairly sure for the price i stole it. Only cost me $30 for standard shipping as well!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-OD ... ccessories" ."..


Nice score hopefully their is nothing wrong with it.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:06 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Holly Crap! Mega score if it's in good shape!

Rand


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
from what he says there it is in good shape. he also had quite a few other parts listed including rear arms and axles but i see they are no longer there. im guessing they were cheap as well. I am really hoping that all is good. i paid 350 for my last trans and it looked in worse shape and didnt even include the shifter.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:07 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Got a little more done this weekend, next weekend i probably wont get any more progress on it because my pickup needs new front brakes, new power steering lines and new front shocks. man am i going broke and fast! haha. I figure everybody likes pictures, so here are a few for you guys to feast on. This thing is looking better and better every day! I need to get it finished before the 20th. Local radio station is having a contest for bikes and ATV's. First prize is $300 to a local motorcycle shop! Figure its worth a shot because it is a cool looking machine and i have put alot of hard work into this thing. I ran into an issue with my master cyl i believe. When trying to bleed the brakes it wont pump up and get pressure on the handle. And when i open the valve to bleed the brakes it barely pushes any fluid out. I know the lines are clear and i took the pistons out of the master cyl and all of the seals and whatnot looks to be in good shape. There was some varnish in there from years of brake fluid but i cleared that out and it still is acting the same way. Any suggestions on what to do?

Here are my pictures. It makes me so happy to finally see this thing sitting on all 4s. I cannot believe that this was a bare frame not to long ago. When you put as much time and effort into a machine like this, you have a new respect for taking care of it. And on the bright side since i have had everything apart, i will know how to fix just about anything on it myself. I want to thank everybody that has given me pointers along the way, or sold me parts. Im not quite finished but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:57 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I ran into an issue with my master cyl i believe. When trying to bleed the brakes it wont pump up and get pressure on the handle. And when i open the valve to bleed the brakes it barely pushes any fluid out. I know the lines are clear and i took the pistons out of the master cyl and all of the seals and whatnot looks to be in good shape. There was some varnish in there from years of brake fluid but i cleared that out and it still is acting the same way. Any suggestions on what to do?

I ran into the exact same issue with my brakes and it was a pain in the ass to get the air out of the system.

I found I had air trapped in the system which wouldn't allow for any pressure to be built up in the master cylinder, thus no resistance in the brake lever. I completely rebuilt the master cylinder and disassembled the front and rear systems so essentially my system was full of air except for the lines themselves. I tried everything I could think of including using a mighty vac to draw fluid through the entire system and nothing, same as you.

Disgusted and pissed off I happened to be looking over the master cylinder rez and noticed the little air bubbles trapped in it. By just trial and error I discovered that if you squeeze the lever very slowly in short 1/2 inch strokes and let it snap back quickly, the bubbles in the master cylinder will come up through the small rez feed hole. This eventually started building pressure on the lever. After that I could pump and bleed the brakes as normal.

Rand


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 2:27 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
on the fronts you have to adjust the shoes out so that the wheel will not move, then you bleed... then you back off the adjusters...


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 2:42 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Turbotexas wrote:
on the fronts you have to adjust the shoes out so that the wheel will not move, then you bleed... then you back off the adjusters...


Back when I had my problem, Hoser suggested that I try that trick and that didn't work either! It took me three days to figure out how to get the master cylinder primed.

Rand


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 184 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ... 8  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], hoser, maseventura


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group