I agree with Dave. Don't destroy a good Power Pro's pipe that can be re-conditioned and resold to someone who needs a whole pipe! A little effort on your part and that pipe could fetch a good price reconditioned.

Rand

I have no pipe for the sled. When i bought the odyssey it didnt even come with a stock pipe. I will recondition this pipe whether i use it or not. The stock sled pipe also dosent look like it will fit all that great on there, and is extremely ugly. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-E ... ccessories Is this power pros pipe better than the DG pipe? the DG is what currently is on my other odyssey.

I agree that u should use a pipe that is made for the sled Engine u will be slot happier with the performance with a sled pipe

I guess i will just clean this pipe up when it gets here and decide if i want to keep it in my stash or sell it. My ody with the 350 has the DG pipe on it. Someone who has ran both could maybe chime in and tell what one they preferred? For now i will keep my eye out on a stock sled pipe.It will be a while before i get to the exhaust anyways. I need to finish wiring up the headlights tomorrow. I would like to have all the electrical done before a bunch of family is going to be over and more than likely checking out my work since it is in the center of the shop! i have most of the suspension parts painted.. i just need to assemble things now. I cant start installing them on the frame just yet because that still needs to be sent off and sandblasted and then either powder coated or painted. I got the banshee radiator on eBay a while back for $10 and free shipping but now that it is actually here i am not sure if i like the size of it. It looks to be a bit too small. Ive got a friend with a banshee so maybe i will sell it to him and make my money back. I was looking at an aluminum Honda civic radiator that people have said they ran and right now that looks to be about the best choice. Once i get my wiring all finished and confirmed working i will post up how i wired in the odyssey switches into the sled harness in case someone in the future does this same swap. will solve a little bit of trial and error and fuse blowing when you forget that the ground wire on the stock odyssey is green..... anywho that is where i am at right now.

Couple things that i have been wondering about are how do people usually wire in the water pump. I will be using an electric water pump since the manual one that was bolted to the side of the Engine will no longer fit. The pump that was in the parts package with this odyssey was from a Mercedes. Its simple to wire it to power yes, but i was wondering if people usually wire the water pumps so that it starts to pump as soon as you turn on the key, or is it that it starts to pump as soon as the Engine fires? I would think that the best way to do this would be to do it so that if the Engine is running the pump is also and if the Engine is not running the pump is not running. that way if you forget to turn the key off you don't run your battery dead(granted you probably would hear the pump running). If this is in fact the best way to go, how would i go about wiring it. there is a wire that comes directly from the magneto(hope this is the correct word) on the Engine that used to be for the hand warmer circuit on the sled. Would that be a wire that i could tap into for the water pump or is it not going to be the correct/not enough amps/voltage.

Next question i had was about the seized up wheel controls. the brake levers, and throttle lever is froze up solid. Again guessing that this thing sat outside is the reason for this. I have tried PB blaster on all of the places where it could be seized with no luck. they move a bit but are still extremely stiff. Is there any trick to freeing these up? I really don't want to have to buy another one of these because the wheel itself is in good shape, just the machine was unfortunately left outside. It is bad enough i am going to more than likely need an entire new set of cables..brake, throttle, parking brake... thank god for Christmas money!

Thanks, Matt.

For the FL350 the Power Pros pipe is more of a performance pipe where the DG pipe was originally designed as a replacement for the stock pipe. The DG pipe with it's lack of a good silencer is extremely loud. I changed the silencer on my DG pipe to an FMF Quiet Core II which is considerably quieter and has a spark arrestor. In my opinion the fit and finish of the DG pipe sucks. I have never examined a Power Pros pipe so I can't tell you the difference. Remember that just an exhaust pipe alone will not give you a great difference in power. I would guess that there would only be a 1 HP difference between the two pipes at best. I remember reading on the forums here that you can get the pipe designed for either torque or top end (maybe that was the Pilot pipe, I don't remember).

For the exhaust pipe for your 570, I would try to find a pipe that was designed for your Engine. Expansion chambers are tuned specifically for the Engine they were designed for. Using another pipe not designed for your Engine may or may not work well enough to allow the Engine to perform to it's full potential.

As far as using the Mercedes water pump I have mine wired into the circuit so it comes on the moment you turn on the key. I like it this way because when you turn on the key you will hear it running and know it is working. With it set up to start running when the Engine turns over, you wont know if it's running or not.

Rand

I managed to fit a unmodified 670 exspansion chamber in. The thing is huge. All the changes to get it in there were made to the y-pipe. I changed the angle of the y-pipe to point down more, and shortened it up a bit.





Also keep in mind the welding on an exspansion chamber is a tricky deal. The pipes vibrate like crazy and can crack beside the welds over time if they are not thermally treated after welding. Meaning either heat cycled in a controlled oven or cryo'ed. The previous owner of mine could not keep the moddified chamber together.

This is what it looked like when I brought it home. Pipe is cracked clean in two. Man was it loud.

I managed to get my steering wheel controls, throttle and brakes, freed up. took some PB blaster and elbow grease but the controls move like new.. thank god because i really didnt want to have to purchase a new wheel. I have most of my wiring done, i am just running into an issue with the ignition and kill switches. If i hook up only the Off/Run/Off kill switch it will work normal, but when i hook up just the key as the kill switch it will work opposite. when i have the key off i get spark (manually activating the solinoid) but with the key on there is no spark. Not sure what to do to fix this. At this point i am almost tempted to make it so that only the kill switch kills the Engine, but i don't think that would be the best.

Today i got fenders put on my stock ody. I do love the look of an odyssey with fenders and aluminum wheels :). I have gotten alot of the suspention parts assembled and they look great, should have that part finished tomarrow and will add pictures. Shes coming along nicely.

Here are the pictures of a couple of the arms that i have cleaned up. I think the back and white goes good together, but i will see what it looks like when i get it totally assembled.



I re-finished my seat also. I got some vinyl and fabric paint from my local napa store and repainted it. I know it isnt the exactly the right color but i think it looks much better than it did. not perfect but good enough for me.

Before



After



I also used some RIT dye on the seatbelts to make them a nice red color. They are drying now so i will post pictures tomorrow or whenever i get around do it.

get you some new belts, the stitching in yours might be dry-rotted...

Looks nice, I like the black and white theme on the arms. It will look nice on the front.

Thanks. I just bought some more parts. Bought a belt because i felt it was a good deal.. even tho the project is a ways off from being done. $30 shipped for a Dayco Max2 belt. Too bad school started back up so this project is slowing down. Once i get the pipe fitted, the fuel tank mounted, and the top mount for the radiator made.. the chassis is going to go for sandblast/paint (or powdercoat.. depending on price). I still need to find a set of front tires for this thing to. What size are the stock fronts? I don't have them handy or else i would just look. Was thinking about posting a Wanted ad on my local craigslist.

As for the seatbelts. I do have a friend that races top alcohol funny cars and he said he had a belt that he was going to give me. It is a 5 point. I think it is a belt that he cannot get certified anymore, not because there is something wrong with it but i believe the belts for racecars can only be so old? either way it should be fine for an odyssey.

tire size is usually 22x7x10 or you might want a 8" wide tire depending on terrain...

Thanks. Will see if someone local has a set of tires for me.

Here is what i came up with for an electronics mount. I know its a thick piece of aluminum.. but its just what i had laying arround. haha.



and here is what i came up with for a fuel pump mount.

I noticed that my front tierods are bent in about 6 different places each. Guess that's what 20 years of abuse will do. Are the after market tierods worth the price? or should i stick with the stock ones and attempt to straighten them out.

Stock tie rods aren't that expensive and if you change over to the aftermarket tie rods you have to drill out you steering stem and your knuckles. If your tie rods are as tweeked as they sound they are weak and should be replaced or you will probably just bend them again if you attempt to straighten them again.

Rand

Here is were I got my new tierods from
Bob

http://pre-machining.com/odyssey-pages/products.html

I bought a set from weed and these accepted the stock metric sizes...

Convenient place to mount the fuel pump!

been thinking about the cabling recently. I have tried looking for a custom 1 into 2 cable splitter like what came stock on the sled. I have seen one when googling for a triumph motorcycle but don't know if that is exactly what i am wanting.

Here is what i am talking about


that is more or less what the stock sled cable has on it, but the middle piece that would allow the 2 cables to attach to the 1 is molded directly to the 1 cable. i guess i may be able to modify it but i don't want something that is not going to be reliable. On the cable, the 2 smaller cables that run directly to the carb will come out, so i would only need to make the splice between those and my odyssey cable. And if it is easy to do i don't see why i shouldn't do it for the choke cable as well.. just for convenience.


As well as thinking about the throttle, i talked to a buddy of mine and he said that he would be able to powdercoat the frame for me. So it looks like once i get all the mounts for the radiator ect figured out i am going to be having him powdercoat it. It looks like i am going to have to cut off the stock mirrors tho. When i pull back the boot i don't see any nut just cobbled welds where it looks like someone welded them on. Oh well, i will save the mirrors but i don't think i can save the factory holes in the down tubes.

I was bending mine frequently and it got to be a real pain straightening them out and realigning all the time. I suggest the aftermarket tie rods that Randy sells at Odysseysalvage.com. I have also seen them on Fleabay under FL350 heavy duty tie rods.

the mirrors unscrew...

Yes i know they do, but it looks like they were welded into the screw hole of the post. unless there is another way that they unscrew. when i moved the boot back there is nothing in there to get a wrench on but it looks like very crude welds. no threads nothing. this is why i believe they were welded in there somehow. maybe i need to take a second look. but it wont bother me much if i have to get rid of them completely.

I got alot done today. Mounted the banshee radiator, mounted the water pump, mounted the fuel tank and started tearing it down so next week it can get sandblasted and then powder coated. I have a couple questions for you guys about a thermo fan switch. I plan on using a fan on this, but i don't want to have it on all of the time. I want it to come on whenever the Engine needs to be cooled down. What parts do i need to do the thermo fan switch? I know there was something inline that could be used but i cant seem to find the right one.