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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Hey guys, i recently picked up a second odyssey on ebay for $850. It isnt put together but the guy said he has most of the parts for it. I am most likely going to pick it up this Saturday.

Here are some details from the auction

Quote:
the original motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was seized up and he threw it away with intentions of swapping a sled motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) into it.

as of right now the FL350 is completley torn apart, i have all the parts and bolts that i have taken off. as stated above it has a newer Yamaha Exciter 570 2cyl 2stroke Engine this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) has somewhere around 96hp so it will make this thing fly when its done. all motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts and modifcations have been done. I am including the carbs the complete harness and even the gauge package from the sled so if you wanted to adapt that in you can Pics below were taken when i got the odyssey and during tear down. for the parts it was missing that you must get to complete. are the exhaust. filters,drive belt fuel tank.right rear fender (if you want it, i wasn't going to run any since it was to be a sand rail) that's pretty much all you will need to complete the vehicle.

again this is a need to complete vehicle. i will it is all torn apart, needed to be cleaned, painted refurbished etc. but its all there pretty much. even if you wanted to part it out its worth way more than im asking. i just would like to see someone finish it, and to have a good home. my 1st baby comes ahead of this. everything you see in the complete pic you will get. also the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) a new battery. an electric fuel pump from a mercedes. also a small radiator . all the parts needed to run the Engine.


Here are the pictures

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I think for what i paid it looks to be in pretty good shape and even if i parted it out i would get my money back from it. I really don't want to part it out but if it comes to that i will. What do you guys think about the price? it seems like if it is all there but for a few things it should be good. Another question that i have.. how much HP is the stock transmission capable of handling? that's one thing that kinda worries me about this. Let me know what you guys think!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 pm
Posts: 511
Location: Milwaukie, Oregon
I think that is a fair price for the odyssey, I remember it from ebay.
Keep us posted on your project.

Bob ::-:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 1:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Got her home today... Definitely will be a project. don't think i bit off more than i can chew, but its going to be a bit more work than my last odyssey for sure. From what i can see now, i am going to need a set of front tires, exhaust fabbed up, a belt, fuel tank, and a whole bunch of tinkering. I can tell you now i am going to have a few questions coming.


First off, for these conversions, whats the most popular fuel tank size? and second, what is the most popular radiator?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 1:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
As far as a fuel tank I would go with one of the Aluminum tanks Randy from Odysseysalvage sells. He offers a 8 x 24 tank @ 5 gallons and a 8 x 16 tank that holds 3.5 gallons. Personally I would go for the 3.5 gallon as the 5 gallon tanks sticks out of the frame too far for my taste.

As for the radiator, the Banshee radiator seems to be a popular choice. It is configured for a twin so it should have enough capacity for your twin. I am only running a water cooled head on my Ody and I am using a radiator from a Yamaha YFZ450r. I preferred this radiator over the Banshee due to the mounting tab locations. Much cleaner looking mount that can be placed just behind the head net.

Rand


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
I will look into that tank and radiator. Will the radiator need a fan or can i get away with just running a radiator?

Also, what do guys usually do for a throttle cable and choke cable on the Engine swaps since the sleds have dual carbs. the sled Engine was right in front of the controls so the stock sled cables aren't near long enough. The choke cable i thought about just mounting right behind the drivers head but the throttle up there would be a little inconvenient hehe.

What are my options as far as the seat re-covering. Can i just take it to an upholstery shop and they can recover it. My seat is faded in all the places except where the seat belt layed and then in the bottom of the seat it looks like someone had a wild ride :shock: . haha i think this thing sat outside for a few years.

All of my cables are froze up. They are in good shape minus being stuck. I managed to work one shifter cable free but the other one i am not having such luck. Also, the 2 brake cables are froze up. Is there any trick to getting these things free? Or am i just doomed to replacing them?

Is there any way to take the shock springs off of the shocks easily? The springs could use a good coat of paint and a polishing but i don't want to get a ton of over spray on the shocks themselves.

One last thing i am kinda still concerned about is making the wiring harnesses interact with each other. Where would be the best place to begin with this? I would figure it out eventually but if someone else has done this before and can give their opinion it would make life much easier. Ive got the complete wiring harness from both the odyssey and the sled so anything i need from each is there. I am fairly certain i am going to want to use the stock odyssey harness and then graft the sled harness pieces in there like the 3 electronics pieces?

Boy with all these questions i feel as if i am a complete noob. Although alot of the things i could figure out myself, but like i said if someone has been there done that it will make life a whole bunch easier. Thanks for the help guys, i think i have been bitten by the pilot-odyssey bug.. i already have plans to restore my first fl350 or at least do a better job at the restoration once this one is done. that one never got the chassis painted or the suspension parts painted... i was too eager to get it running.

So, onto the update on the current situation of this odyssey. Ive got the frame all stripped down and the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounts are being re-welded. The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount welds that were on the frame when we picked it up were good for tacking but im sure they would have ripped apart as soon as the Engine started. All of the suspension pieces and little odds and ends are in a few boxs ready to be sand blasted so i can throw a fresh coat of paint on them. I am thinking the gold pieces are going to be white (wheels included) and then leave the black stuff black. The frame will stay red. once i get everything fabbed up i will have the frame and roll cage blasted and painted red. Its nice to know someone that can sand blast and paint for me! It really makes me feel good that i have saved another odyssey from just rotting away, although its a shame that the stock Engine for this one was just thrown away after it seized.

Again, thanks for everything. You guys are a big help!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 2:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
1.) I personally would use the fan setup. When you are riding slow on trails you will want the fan.
2.) If your seat is not ripped I would look into refinishing the seat rather than recovering it. Here is a quote from another member on SEM paints. "Use Vinyl dye, or paint that is made by SEM, it is usually available only at auto body supply stores, like commercial auto body supply stores, not Autozone, Advance, Pepboys etc. use it in Semi gloss, your results will be amazing, I have restored a few cars and their vinyl dye in aerosol is amazing stuff. I have made red seats black with it, and when you sit on them for long term even your butt wont even get black, and they look incredible, I cannot rant and rave about this product enuf."
3.) The cables have a tendency to rust internally if the Ody has been left outdoors. Replace them. You may get them to work however you run the risk of them binding again or worse yet breaking at the worst moment!
4.) As far as shocks go you can disassemble them for repainting however the rear shocks especially are too stiff and poorly valved from the factory. The hot ticket for both the front and rear shocks is to replace them with Works shocks. The difference in ride is night and day! Stock shocks make the Ody ride like a pogo stick. The works smooth the ride out considerably!
5.) I can't help with the wiring and throttle cables for the sled conversion. Maybe someone with the experience will chime in on what to do.

Rand (EX NOOB!)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Thanks rand. gave me a lot of good information. I found a set of rear used fenders today so i purchased them. Not sure if they will go on this odyssey or my last one... but i have 2 fronts and 1 rear currently.. so now i have at least one full set. Pretty much an entire odyssey is loaded up in the back of my S10 getting ready to go to the sandblaster. I received the coil today for the Yamaha Engine. hopefully this weekend i can see about straightening out the wiring, and probably painting a bunch of parts! I will post some pictures of the painted parts when i get to that point


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:56 pm
Posts: 224
Location: Ontario Canada
I have/had a 670 Rotax in my Oddy. Ran I ran it hard all year and never had an issue with the gearbox, or axles. They held up to it, and i beat on the thing. No noise, no slop, good for more punishment.
I ran a Honda civic rad. Way overkill but it's what I had around. I had a fan on it, although I only ever saw it come on once when I was stuck in the mud. I would run a fan.
Cables. When I first had it running, I used the stock Oddy throttle cable, mated to the Sled cable. 2 brackets to hold each end Although it worked, it was way way too stiff to operate the twin 44mm carbs with my thumb. I went to a foot throttle, modified/shortened the Oddy cable, kept the sled cable stock.
Image

I had to make a new shifter cable bracket . Changed the angle that they approached the gearbox to clear the carbs. Then when one my cables broke at the shifter, I went to a single push/pull cable and custom shifter. Simple and it works much better than my stock shifter ever did.
Image

The wiring on my sled Engine was pretty basic. The Rotax ignition is pretty much stand alone. All I tied in was the kill circuit to the Oddy key switch and run switch, and the Rotax regulator to the Oddy power wires. The power on(key), start relay, run/stop switch all tranfers to the sled system as is.

I ran the stock 670 primary clutch spring at first, but engagement was un-necessarily high, and crusing rpm was up there as well. The 10:1 gearbox and the small Oddy secondary clutch is not the ideal match for a sled primary. I switched to the lightest spring available and it was much better. See if you can figure out which spring you have to see if there are options for you.

And check out my "Busted" thread. You may want to reinforce some areas.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8385" ."..


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 5:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:48 am
Posts: 194
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
nitrosport_5 wrote:
I will look into that tank and radiator. Will the radiator need a fan or can i get away with just running a radiator?

Also, what do guys usually do for a throttle cable and choke cable on the Engine swaps since the sleds have dual carbs. the sled Engine was right in front of the controls so the stock sled cables aren't near long enough. The choke cable i thought about just mounting right behind the drivers head but the throttle up there would be a little inconvenient hehe.

I also used a Honda Civic aftermarket aluminum radiator (easily found on ebay) for my Polaris Indy 440 Engine buggy build. I have a 10" fan on it with a thermoswitch to control the fan turning on and off. It works well. It will overheat without a fan, I would say you must run one unless you want to take a chance burning up your Engine. I think a Banshee radiator might be on the small side for a sled Engine.

For the throttle cable, check out this thread: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8298
I put the choke lever next to the seat behind my shoulder; it's fine there since I only have to use it for cold starts anyway.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
So, the Engine is sitting in the chassis and ready to be wired up. Im at the point where i am just confused on this whole wiring business... that will be the hardest part of this whole situation i think. I honestly don't know where to begin. When you guys do the Engine swaps, do you leave the stock odyssey wiring harness but hook up the sled Engine/ignition to that? or do you take the sled harness and make that work with all of the lights/switches/ect of the odyssey? I know it is alot of questions and i apologize. Its the first time doing this type of Engine swap where i am making an Engine that wasn't designed for this rig work in it. If it were a stock replacement i would be fine. hehe.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 11:22 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 1779
Location: Ma
I removed the old harness and kept it intact...
I used the sled harness and I would rec you use the original harness for this Engine too...
I find it is a must to have a diagram of the harness and a couple of highlighters...
you will need to know what color wires go where and do what.... start with just studying the diagram with the new harness in front of you...and highlighting each different wire map and where it goes... if you do this step quickly and can get messy and wrenches will fly.LOL
You can always hook the system up with the correct grounds and such to toggles and the frame and test.. no need to run the wires to the front at first... keep the wire long but just work in a small area... ie ground and switchs near where it is comfortable to work..
I rec this beacuse if you go and cut the wires and run them to the front and you have issues it is alot more work for you...later once it is up and running you can hook to what ever switches and controls you like...
make sure you have a good strong ground before you try to fire it up... I forget...but i think you can ruin the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) without a proper ground .. don't quote me on that though..
I found that nearly everything was tied into something else... cause my sled had heated grips, throttle, reverse chime, key switch, stop button, emergent stop cord, high low beams, oils sensor, gas sensor, tach, speedo, mph, lighted guages.. etc etc....
take your time ... I love these things and it is no problem to ans questions...
everyone on this site is great...
except me
G.O.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Alright, I got the Engine hooked up to its stock harness and running. So now I have the task of extending all the wires. I'm kinda thinking I want to use the stock yamaha key because it has the start positionand I think that would be cool to add that, and still have the stock ody start button, but we will see. The sled had the headlight automaticly come on when you started the sled but I don't want it to work that way so I will have to change that also. I've got a lot of work ahead of me. Luckily I still got a couple more weeks of xmas vacation to get some more work done. I would like to have this running by spring break.. I think that's reasonable.

I ran acrossed an 8x16 tank for 100 so I got that coming. Found a banshee radiator for $10 also so I got that.. wether I use it or not I'm not sure but I couldn't pass it up for that price. My next big thing I need to figure out is the exhaust. What do you guys usually do there? Another thing I was wondering about is the carb on this Engine, they have antifreeze running through them and my guess is that was on the stock sled to keep them from freezing? My question is do I need/should I keep antifreeze running through them? Would clean it up the clutter back there if I bypassed that. I guess that's all for now. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 1:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Im glad to hear i can do without the heated carbs. It will definitely clear up quite a bit of clutter that is in that area right now. Tomarrow i plan to paint a bit more on some of the other parts as well as getting all my wire harness made.

Here is a picture of some of my cleaned up parts. I went through the brakes and cleaned them up. There was quite a bit of rust in there and i think it sat outside for a while unfortunately. I threw a quick coat of paint on the axles. Redneck chrome haha. cleaned up the headlights, still may polish up the lenses. they arent perfect but are in pretty good shape.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 10:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
The parts look great, is that an 81 Camaro under the cover?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
Thanks, its my 1986 Monte Carlo SS. you can see pictures here http://www.86montecarloss.net


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
progressed on my wiring harness today. I have the Engine plug wired in, and am working on wiring in the battery box/ solenoid. My goal is to make this Engine swap look like it was meant to be.. although difficult because the Engine says Yamaha in large letters lol. but i want a clean looking swap, not something just thrown together. Its going good so far. I am going to try and wire in a tach as well, as i think that would be a neat feature to keep off of the stock sled. I painted up some more parts and the hubs i painted white. I really think the white will look good with the black accents on the suspension pieces. Pictures to come later ::-:


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:15 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:19 am
Posts: 714
This is what I did to change the angle of the header pipe on my FL250. I am sure there are others ways as well.

I just cut the pipe until it was ALMOST cut all the way. I then bent the cut part down. Made a peace to fit it.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:37 pm 
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Location: St. John, Washington
that is just about how i was thinking of doing it. Currently, i do not have a pipe at all for this, i just have the stock exciter header. Now, what i was thinking about doing was mating the stock exciter header to a stock odyssey pipe, or a DG pipe(perferably..an this is only if ican find one for a decent price) because the stock exciter header seems to come out at about the same spot as a stock header (havent looked closely at my stock 350). Or, would it be better to get a pipe made for the exciter and fab it up to fit in the odyssey. I really don't need the perfect tuned pipe for this Engine as it will have enough power on its own haha.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:20 pm
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Location: saskatoon, sk, canada
if you have any pics of the progress you are making please post..as i am thinking of doing some kind of conversion myself. sounds like your doing good so far


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
I honestly don't have any progress to show. Most of what i have been doing is painting suspension parts. The Engine is just sitting in the chassis because i am going to have to take it back out once i get all of the radiator mounts and such and have the entire chassis painted or powder coated. I do have a picture of some of my suspension parts that i will upload a bit later. I did get most of the wire harness one and am working on wiring up the odyssey key & wheel controls to the sled harness. Its going to start slowing down now that i have Christmas coming up and after the first of the year i head back to school. Thanks for the words of encouragement!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 1:33 am 
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Location: St. John, Washington
Updated parts pile. it isnt much but there is more that is drying in the middle of the shop. not 100% sure if i am going to like the white.. but i can always repaint later. for now white it is!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
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Location: St. John, Washington
Hey guys, i got a quick question. Can anybody tell me the brand of this pipe?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:23 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
looks like an older power pros pipe by the mounts it has... for a 350 or pilot...


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
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Location: St. John, Washington
Thanks turbo. i purchased this pipe on ebay. $90 w/ free shipping. not bad IMO. I am going to try and mock this up to be the pipe for this Engine.. unless anyone disagrees with me cutting this up (more or less the header).


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
Why don't you use one from the sled it's self??? it will be tuned already for that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))...


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