Pics of the Engine before shipping to Hoser.

I know some people have used the Por15 on the frame and other things but has anybody used it in the gas tank of a pilot?
Tank isnt realy bad but I do see rust starting to form and want to stop it NOW. So what does anybody think?

I believe that they make a special coating just for the inside of fuel tanks.

I have used KREEM liner on a few tanks, it works good. Comes in a package of 3 bottles, you can get it at your local bike shops, takes a few days to do it right but it is worth it.

Keep in mind you have fuel pickups inside the tank, the Pilot tank has screens too?

Plug them up and your screwed.

I saw the screen pick ups in the tank. If I descide to go that route. I think I could do it without getting anything on the pickups by rolling it around and not just sloshing it around. Least that is the plan. /but yes I have thought bout the pick ups.

Here is how far the frame is with the stripping. Be done soon.

Wow that's a lot of work my hats off to you and the stripping what kind of stripper are you using?

What kind of paint you going to use, what color?

The stripper is what you get from lowes Klean stripp. As for paint , I'm not sure. I would like to use a good auto quality paint. Love to powder coat also but don't think I will be able to swing that. Color will be red. Any thoughts on kind of paint to use?

Rustoleum has a red that is real close to the Honda red.

I know its probably a dumb question but I have to ask. My coil over springs on the rear were in bad need of some paint. has anybody painted theirs if so what paint did you use? I was just consurned about the paint flaking off as it compressed up and down.

Before I took my Safety Nazi job at where I work I was the tinter and Quality Control Supervisor for a coatings manufacturer so I will field this one......

It's not really a matter of what paint you are going to use but it's the prep you need to do to make it adhere properly. Once the original paint is stripped from the coil and the surface is properly sanded you can paint it with a nice acrylic enamel. There are one step paints on the market now called Direct to Metal that do not require a primer. One thin even coat of paint is all you want to do on a surfaces that flex like a coil spring. Stay away from water based products. They tend to crack and chip easily when put under stress. A good acrylic enamel will hold up well......if the surface is prepped properly.

Rand

Thanks for the info Rand. Now to pick a cool color for the springs.

Finally!! Got the 1 side out. Now I need to find a brass rod to hammer the other side out. Here are a few pics.

18 OIL SEAL (35X57X9) (NOT AVAILABLE)
91223-VM0-004

Is there after market seal out there to replace this number?

Yes there are aftermarket seals available, however they do not have the steel ring. The steel ring is not a show stopper. Sometime ago when i rebuilt my tranny i had the same problem.

I do have a set of seals for the final. PM me if you are interested. I'm kinda sitting on them and offering them to POOA members as the need comes along.

don't know if you paln on splitting the tranny case or not - but make sure you change the oil at least. Some of the bearings are special and discontinued so service your tranny often. Buy Hond oil just like the manual says - i think it os 10w30. Do not use gear oil it will not get into all the tight tolerences of the tranny bushings and stuff.
Project is coming along well.

Should I take it apart and go through it and change grease?

Good show glad it came apart looks like your puller worked nicely glad to see its all wet with oil grease and not rust fused together, I see the wire ring on the end of the axle you should replace these when you reassemble.

Grease everything up good when you put it back together but no so much grease that it tries to build pressure when you push the axle stubs back into place.

Read this about sealing it up with silicone to keep grease in moisture out?

http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=454
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=456

Also see viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3522

I need to replace a ball joint boot and I do have 4 new boots. I have a bad lower arm I was using to figure out how the old boot comes off. I posted a pic of the boot cut off. The boot looks like it and the ball joint were put in at the same time. Just need to know if this is all I have to do is cut it off.

Thanks

Should I replace the grease in the belt drive and is there something else I should do while its open?

Here is all I got so far to post. Not much but all I got right now.

Looking very good, sure is fun cleaning those parts ( yah right ) I am working on what I call my ratty pilot I have been cleaning, painting and rebuilding as well.

Keep up the good work, it will all be worth it. When you are done not only can you ride her but you can go out in the garage and just look at her and say yah baby.

Take care and good luck with your build.

No need to replace the grease in the clutch.

I never done much with the stock clutches since their was no performance parts available to calibrate them I herd in the early days guys tried having different springs made for them but didnt have much luck getting them to perform like a after market clutch.

I have been wanting to try a stock clutch in my Pilot with the 440 since I have it tuned so mild just to see how it would work.

I was going to scoop out all the grease I could its just added weight I don't see that clutch ever wearing out with just a film of grease on all its parts, all the stock clutches I have look at even those with worn out clutch faces their is no measurable wear inside.

I am not sure if so much grease was used to ensure it has plenty to lubricate or if it was also used to balance the clutch and or to dampen vibrations of the Engine?

I just cleaned out all the old grease and added new grease. Will get a better clutch in the future. Well I got the final nut off the tranny now
i have to get the disc brake hub off. I have a large 3 jaw puller I can use. but was wondering if that is the right way to go. Manual says commercial puller not by hand. The 3 jaw is the best I have.

Try the 3 jaw just be careful you can easily bend the hub up when you tighten the puller so as you tighten look for deflection stop if it starts to flex.

Before you use the puller remove it and clean the threads really good with a wire brush then rinse with carb or brake cleaner then grease the threads really good turn the bolt in and out many times to ensure you work the grease into the threads and they are 100% coated, the difference between a well greased puller and one that is not is night and day, also put grease on the end where its pushing against the plate.

Tighten the puller get a bunch of tension on the puller then take a hammer and smack the head of the puller bolt, give it a good smack then tighten the bolt more.

Take careful aim when you hit the bolt one good solid perfect hit is better than 10 half ass hits, focus on the head of the hammer hitting the bolt perfectly center and square on the bolt no glancing blows, if your not really skilled with a hammer go practice on something else before you hit the puller, good practice would be driving nails into a block of wood, sounds silly but is very important you hit the puller square and solid.

Some of them hubs pop right off some put up a good fight.

Looking at your picture close it does not look like the end of the puller is exactly centered over the output shaft of the trans its important you center it as close as you can.